The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

  • Thread starter TomN
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DainBrammage
Two weeks ago I came to this forum to read-up on the t500 before possibly buying. I also read the reviews at Amazon. So now that I own this wheel and have used it heavily I want to make a post, to myself, as I was as a nervous buyer 2 weeks ago:

"Yes its good to read about possible problems, especially after having the fanatec power button stop working the first day you got it, but notice how often the SAME guys are posting about t500 trouble? Count their posts compared to all other input. This should tell you something. Also notice how much fuss is made here about V numbers (also by the same people) as if to suggest some V's are good and some are not. Dont let these people get to you! They have more issues than with just a wheel purchase.

"Buy with confidence. Ignore this chatter about V numbers. The wheel comes with a 2 year warranty (even if Thrustmaster did try to out-fanatec Fanatec and reduce the warranty to 6 months, yours is still covered for 2 years). This wheel is reliable. Its reliable like your computer mouse is reliable or like your
ps3 is reliable. Buy with confidence and remind yourself this is all about the driving- not about internet forum intrigue and conspiracy theory. Whats that expression: 'live to race, race to live' ..aint nothing there mentions the psycological need to post dozens of times on the same subject on a damn internet forum. Buy with confidence."

..so thats a post I am making now to myself as I was 2 weeks ago. And I thank myself for the heads up. Its a great wheel and I couldnt be happier.
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Your funny !

So why you call amazon then for a $130 refund if all v's are as good as each other, you say we have issues, your a hypocrite !
They have a 2 year warrenty so why did you need to get $130 refund, you did'nt buy with confidence, your a hypocrite !

You deserve that for being a plonker in earlier post you hypocrite !
 
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I may or may not be a hypocrite; but for sure I learn as I go. I learned a few things about t500's on this thread. Not so much from listening to you go around and around with your repetitive problems, but actually, I learned from getting so sick of you I made that post you quoted above, and it led me to investigate for myself. I took the so-called problem(s) into my own hands. Compared to you though- who just posts and posts and posts without resolution, I was able to see a way out, and despite a few guys here doubting it, I got exactly what I said I would.

So hypocrite? Whatever dude. But I'm glad you got that off your chest. Now you can go back to reporting on your FFB problems with a clear conscience, and you can do it right up until you drop dead, for all I care.
 
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Yeah I've been reading this thread and I'm amazed at how much people bitch about nothing. In fact I'm pretty much done reading this thread because I don't really care to hear about how some anal retentive people can never be happy until they run Thrustmaster into the ground. and people wonder why these companies no longer provide the level of support they used to- assholes like these guys abuse the system.
 
I once had T500RS which had a small defect that was resolved by Thrustmaster more than satisfactory manner. I sold my first T500RS, tempted amazing appearance CSW steering wheel from Fanatec. Unfortunately, enthusiasm vanished along with reports on the quality and durability of Fanatec CSW. Now I am again happy owner of T500RS, which I bought second hand.
We know that each claim is different there are people who can not properly use things or expect them to be bullet-proof.. Just like manufacturers solve problems in different ways that have occurred in their products. The key is to find a balance between the enforcement of our rights and being a pain in the ass
 
My first T500 V1 caught on fire and died on the first week of release. TM sent me a replacement in 3 days. They told me to keep the extra set of pedals so I have a spare now. My Second V1 is still running strong and I have no problems with it. Superb customer service from TM and I have a fan on cover kit in case it craps out. Version numbers? What a crock of bull! Quit your bitching about numbers, notches, heat and nipples. My god people, go buy a piece of Fanatec and whine over there.
Bottom line is, when this one gives out guess what? I'll go buy another one and not watse my time complaining on this thread about it. Hook the damn thing up, shut up and race. Simple.
 
Those that can´t deal with criticism maybe should start a T500RS appreciation thread. If people start to post about issues there you can direct to this thread where you get the good and bad about the wheel without unnecessary censorship?

I can understand those that has been long in the game will feel the thread run around in circles and accepted the T500RS for what it´s but that is just how things works.
 
I confess... I am one of those that was obsessed about the version numbers, et al. Therefore I can sympathize with those in this thread that have done the same. Though I was never too worried about the notch that's there when the wheel is new.

However, things have since changed. Part of the reason they changed was because I finally came to the realization that getting a newer version just wasn't feasible. This alone allowed me to simply and FINALLY enjoy the wheel for what it is.

I will spare myself the humiliation of telling you publicly the saga I have gone through with this wheel. My friends know it and have heard it, probably shaking their heads the entire time. All I will say is that at this point, I am still currently waiting on a $500 refund for a wheel from a place that could not be more of a pain in the BUTT. I only have myself to blame. The wheel(s) as it turns out, is fine.

zacharyPL
The key is to find a balance between the enforcement of our rights and being a pain in the ass.
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I really like this comment as it sums up a customer's role pretty well. I'm in the business of customer service, both at my "real" job and my side business BasherBoards. I provide service to people from all over the world and for the most part, everyone falls somewhere right in-between. Much of this is determined by service level and the quality of the product they receive.

I was starting to fall into the "being a pain in the ass" category until I finally realized the trouble I was going through to get a newer version just wasn't worth it. Once I realized that, I also almost immediately started to really enjoy the wheel I have. (V2)

That said, we, as fellow users must find our own balance in helping people that are having troubles with their wheels. Let's face it, some people are just more critical than others... I'm one of those people. When it comes to helping fellow users, there is a fine line between being critical of them and guiding them to a acceptable solution. It's easy to be someone that just has fun with their wheel and doesn't worry about: a whirring sound, notches, odd clunks, whatever... It's not easy being someone that does. That is why they post here with their concerns. It eats them up thinking that something is wrong or will go wrong. Generally speaking, telling them it won't will do little to fix the problem.

Maybe if the "obsessors" and "non-obsessors" can find the middle ground in zacharyPL's statement, we can get somewhere.
 
MATKAP
My T500 mode. Sparco P310 adapter made ​​for the plexyglass. This adapter will put the buttons


IMG_0980_zps39c91e44.jpg

15F5AB5B-A604-4826-A3D3-14C1A3D04598-397-00000056AFF6B118.jpg

B3AB1FC8-4198-446B-9529-C7D10E2DD9B1-397-00000056A7803A19.jpg
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Final result is great! 👍
 
It's probably worth to note that the version number debate started out at the point where Thrustmaster changed from torsion to compression springs in their pedals. Which made people wonder about how to check what pedals they will get before purchase, at which point the version number got into play. From there the question was raised at which point/version Thrustmaster used the new compression springs and people started to compare. At this moment a second question was made that wondered if there were more differences between the version numbers than just the pedal springs.

This is how it all got started. I was there and I am guilty for adding to the discussion by providing info and pictures, but only with the intend to inform people and not confuse people. Let alone keep people from buying these nice wheels or cause Thrustmaster inconveniences by having stuff returned for no apparent reason (like "darn, this is a V2 and I want a V4 even though it works" cases).

So yeah, please keep in mind that the initial intend of knowing about version numbers and differences in the wheels and pedals was only to gain knowledge about the wheels improvements and to let people know (if possible) how to detect the better wheel.
 
Well to an extent the internet can magnify or create issues - Forum Frenzy. Sprinkle gently with FUD (fear, uncertainty, and doubt) and voila you have a new "fact". It's just human nature, really.
 
Logi, I think the few last comments didn't aim to you (or similar posts), where investigation was the main goal. But as you mentioned, the endless discussion of how to get a V4 even if the V2 is working properly, is exhausting to say the least.
 
Hey Guys, Has anyone seen a post or thread concerning a T500 that resets/restarts itself while in use?
I don't want to start a new thread if there is a discussion somewhere already.
 
lopsided
Hey Guys, Has anyone seen a post or thread concerning a T500 that resets/restarts itself while in use?
I don't want to start a new thread if there is a discussion somewhere already.
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The T500 will do this only if either the USB or power cable get disconnected.
I had this too, but it seemed the front USB port on my HAF-X case was faulty. It didn't make a good connection anymore. So either the wheel didn't get recognized, wouldn't boot up or when it did and I accidentally moved the cable... reset.
 
Hi LogiForce, I have considered that and so many other options as well.

At first I suspected my system and I have checked so many things I have run out of ideas. Eventually it led me to believe it was related to the wheel itself, or perhaps the F1 rim.

Here are some of the things I've checked...
- USB drivers up to date, All Firmware is up to date, Bios is up to date
- Has happened in both 2.0 and 3.0 onboard USB ports (tried 3 of them) as well as on the add-on PCI USB card
- Computer has no sleep/hibernate mods enabled, it is not permitted to put a USB to sleep either (Device Manager)
- Has happened with and without being plugged into my Uninterruptable Power Supply as I was trying to eliminate the probability of a voltage anomaly
- The computer itself is stable and passes all benchmarking/stability test (OCCT, Heaven, Furmark, Klombuster etc.)
- I have zero overheating issues with my CPU/GPU etc.
- OS is on separate drive, Games have their own drive, All installs are fresh
- Physical connections at wheel, power brick, computer are secure, this obviously includes the USB
 
BTW, My hardware has not changed in the past 14 months, however, I purchased the F1 rim for Christmas and recently began using it exclusively. That has me wondering... could there be a connection/short between the F1 rim and the base that would cause this?
TM is asking me to check everything on a different computer, this is not an option for me so I am trying to figure it out on my own.

On occasion, while racing, the FFB will continue to vibrate/feedback after hitting a curbing or bumps, meaning it's vibrating on flat pavement. It forces me to use the FFB Reset in game to stop the feedback but eventually just cuts off and recycles.
 
Well, obvious question. If you went back to the GT rim, was the issue solved? If not than it means the rim is not at fault.

I seriously wonder about the electronics inside the T500. They need better cooling in my opinion. So it could be that a component is at the end of its lifespan.
Do you smell any distinct electronics burning smell from the air vents?

On a personal note. I don't think your computer is at fault unless other USB devices have issues as well in those same ports. At which point you might think about a bad 5v lead from the PSU. Which I doubt is the case here.
I think you'll have to send it in for repair/replacement.


Maybe someone else has a better idea on how to diagnose this?
 
Yeah, this is my thinking too and sadly... league racing just begun. :(
It wasn't until last night that I had the idea it could be the F1 rim so today I will try with the GT and see if it's eliminated. It seems reasonable that a bad connection between the two could result in a reset.

You know how it is when you have intermittent issues and you wish it would either die already or make itself known so you could get on with the fix... I'm so there...
And still... I love this wheel. lol
 
Well I decided now was the time to replace the noisy cooling fan and take a look around for any obvious connection/wiring issues. Did not expect to find anything but surprisingly, I did.
Not sure this explains all of the issues/symptoms I have but I am certainly hoping so.



Of the three caps used on the motor, had never been soldered. It did not break loose, the leg is still full length and the solder, a nice round ball with no evidence of connection. The leg was merely resting against the solder.
Will be testing it today and see if this is the one and only issue! Wish me luck.
 
Need your advice.
Planning on running the whole 24 Hour of Nurburgring, potentielly in one go.

Are there any recommendations on this?
 
I would recommend that you don't do it, for your own well-being. However if you're mad enough to do it, I have no idea whether the wheel will hold up. Keep the room cold/well ventilated, run FFB strength as low as possible (I'd say you don't need it much more than 2 on GT5).

I hope you're taking it in shifts with other people?
 
PLazarou
I would recommend that you don't do it, for your own well-being. However if you're mad enough to do it, I have no idea whether the wheel will hold up. Keep the room cold/well ventilated, run FFB strength as low as possible (I'd say you don't need it much more than 2 on GT5).

I hope you're taking it in shifts with other people?
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Yeah, I will do it with other people.
FFB to set 1 of course :P.

I might do it in shifts as to not damage the wheel.
Maybe like 6-7 hours at a time.
 
Why not hook up a temperature probe for the heck of it? I use a simple, cheap outdoor thermometer from ratshack and velcro that conveniently for a gage. Install the wired probe in a suitable place within the device, such as the motor case near the windings and away from fan action. The one I use has a large LCD that updates a few times a minute. Hey real cars have gages you need to oversee, why not in sim land?

Once you learn a device's limits you can cut down on stress/worry and find ways to raise those limits if you so desire.
 
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My t500 is v2 and the fan does make the grinding noise but not all the time I don't really care a little tap on the top and it goes away. What I really hate is the notchiness you feel while turn the wheel feels like you driving over small rumble strips I don't feel this at all on the csw and don't know if this is normal or not but am guessing it is. It does get pretty hot and it looses ffb, after a hour ffb is almost nonexistent and I have the ffb at 4. Other than that I find the wheel at 3 and 9 where your thumbs go not very comfortable on the knuckles as they rub on the wheel it's to tight of space should of just been a 90 and not rounded out and I have average size hands. I had the pedal springs break and Tm replace the pedals with the new ones with the different spring setup with no problems. I would highly recommend the wheel it's way better than a g27 and you should be able to find it pretty cheap I got my for $550 bundled with the shifter which i love. The csw is better and I feel it has the best ffb out there and bmw rim is amazing but it's triple the cost for a full setup compared to the t500rs. It does have some major issues with reliability had to warranty my 6 times, the motors died 3 times, pcb board 2 times and the optical sensor died. I'm running the wheel at normal settings thankfully I have the two warranty and they just keep sending me new wheel bases. Fanatec needs to fix these issues asap especially considering how much it cost, these issues should of been fixed already. It's a shame because when the wheel is working it's the best out there by far for the money.
 

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