feydrautha
Premium
- 604
- Georgia
- fydrautha
Everyone get ready for a lot of work. Camber works now. All of my tunes feel awful now....
Lucky we've got an extra week because of the football lolIt's great that camber is fixed, but damn annoying when it screws up all the tuning work done on the cars.
I'm in a racing series, so now my car will need a complete re-tune before the next race. I'd got it handling pretty sweet and things were looking good.
Ah well, it's fixed and that's the main thing. 👍
Indeed.Lucky we've got an extra week because of the football lol
Its going to need a whole new setup to work with camber from what I'm hearing, slapping on some angle won't give you any advantage if the suspension is tuned to work with 0.0Indeed.
I've done some testing since the update and I can't get the camber to work for me. I'm driving the Megane which is FF and adding camber doesn't help.
Overall I'm slightly slower than usual (3 - 4 tenths) so either something is slightly different or I was just tired.
I'll try again soon.
OK well here is a funny thing!!Edit: Oops, treed while I was typing.
Not sure if this has been mentioned in another thread, but the default alignments are radically different now.I went through my garage and checked the defaults on about 40 cars, and came up with this:
Most road cars:
Front camber: 0.5 or 0.0
Rear camber: 1.5 or 0.0
Front toe: 0.00
Rear toe: 0.60
So far every FR and MR I've found has the 0.5/1.5 camber setup. AWD cars can have either 0.5/1.5 or 0.0/0.0. All the FFs I've checked were 0.0/0.0.
Most race cars:
Front camber: 1.5
Rear camber: 3.5
Front toe: -0.50
Rear toe: 1.00
The most radical change on both road and race cars appears to be the added rear toe, up from 0.20 on most cars. I've been a fan of using lots of rear toe-in for added stability, to the point where several people on GTP called it excessive. I wonder how they feel about this. The rear camber bias is also a bit interesting, not sure what conclusions to draw from that quite yet.
You can't just add camber to your setup that used 0/0 camber. You have to put a setup together that works with camber. THEN you will see gains. I'm am picking up time just about everywhere. I think you're not used to using GT with camber anymore either. IMO people have to learn to get through the middle of the turn again, rather than that feeling off hanging the hell on and aimlessly waiting for it to break loose any second like with the 0 camber setups. Even the people who are putting down basically the same lap times are agreeing the cars are more predictable at least and don't feel like they're zipping around a turn about to top over. 0/0 felt so unnatural. If you're on a wheel, you're definitely going to be faster with a new tune that works well with camber.OK well here is a funny thing!!
I got all excited about having camber working and so I set up my trusty NSX-R LM road car with 1.5 front and 1.0 negative rear.
I entered the online race for 5 laps of Suzuka which I can usually win if I drive an impeccable race with no boo-boos.
I am using an Aarakis Tune which I like on this car with ZERO camber. Downforce is 310 front and 500 rear.
Away I went and won the first race running the above camber settings. My total race time=10:45 for five laps
The second race running Front 2.0 and 0.8 rear went OK also, Race Time 10:43 for the 5 laps
I reduced the rear camber because the rear end got pretty loose on acceleration.
The third race went Ok also using Front 2.5 and 0.8 rear .........Another 10:43 for 5 laps
The fourth race, I thought OK, lets go back to ZERO camber and try that. I was shocked to find my time was 10:38!?!?
The fifth and sixth races were all done at Zero camber and all times were 10:38!! HEY, WAIT A MINUTE! Camber is supposed to allow you to be faster, right? Well it is definitely not working in this ONLINE RACE.
Very interesting eh?
Mustangxr
I run a similar set up on my LM Prototype than with my NSX Type R '02 and I have made a few changes to that car which halped me. I used 1.7 Front 2.0 rear and had to use a little more toe out up front and slightly less toe in at the rear and soften the roll bars a touch. I also had to re-work the LSD a bit. I raised the acceleration and the initial quite a bit and finished up by dropping the braking a bit.OK well here is a funny thing!!
I got all excited about having camber working and so I set up my trusty NSX-R LM road car with 1.5 front and 1.0 negative rear.
I entered the online race for 5 laps of Suzuka which I can usually win if I drive an impeccable race with no boo-boos.
I am using an Aarakis Tune which I like on this car with ZERO camber. Downforce is 310 front and 500 rear.
Away I went and won the first race running the above camber settings. My total race time=10:45 for five laps
The second race running Front 2.0 and 0.8 rear went OK also, Race Time 10:43 for the 5 laps
I reduced the rear camber because the rear end got pretty loose on acceleration.
The third race went Ok also using Front 2.5 and 0.8 rear .........Another 10:43 for 5 laps
The fourth race, I thought OK, lets go back to ZERO camber and try that. I was shocked to find my time was 10:38!?!?
The fifth and sixth races were all done at Zero camber and all times were 10:38!! HEY, WAIT A MINUTE! Camber is supposed to allow you to be faster, right? Well it is definitely not working in this ONLINE RACE.
Very interesting eh?
Mustangxr
.....so I usually tune by feel. I've noticed that using zero camber results in a little bit of understeer on entry but otherwise drives fine. So far the handful of cars I've tested feel best with between 1 to 2 degrees, which conforms to what I remember from GT5.
Too true.No need to overcomplicate stuff... given previous experiences, PD physics are very unlikely to work much like real life.
The problem that I'm personally finding (I'm tuning an FF car) is that tuning by feel simply doesn't work anymore, or at least not for me. I've tried tuning by feel many times with GT6, I have made some cars feel nicer to drive, yet they are producing slower lap times which is really odd. For me at least, 'feel' isn't providing me a quick car.
Well camber was working on FWD back in GT5, it wasn't correct (hardly anything was), but it was possible to improve the car with additional camber. I agree that the physics are not lifelike, PD have never managed to get it right. I'm not sure how much involvement KW have had with the suspension physics (probably very little), but whatever is going on behind the scenes isn't translating to correct physics in the game.FWD physics in GT5/6 are broken, and I doubt adding camber will make much of a difference
Well camber was working on FWD back in GT5, it wasn't correct (hardly anything was), but it was possible to improve the car with additional camber. I agree that the physics are not lifelike, PD have never managed to get it right. I'm not sure how much involvement KW have had with the suspension physics (probably very little), but whatever is going on behind the scenes isn't translating to correct physics in the game.
In a straight line I take it?Yesterday, I discovered that ALL my cars have lost 2 miles per hour--I also confirmed this with other drivers. Somebody should be horse-whipped as we spend hours and hours tuning to get best lap times and keeping records.
The rear camber bias is also a bit interesting, not sure what conclusions to draw from that quite yet.
I assume you're already using the usual tuning tricks to reduce understeer - high front/low rear ride height, high -ve rear toe, min LSD decel etc?
That's what surprised me too. I have a terrible habit of running lots of toe, but never that much.As for the rear toe, I've no idea why they upped it to +.060......
Yesterday, I discovered that ALL my cars have lost 2 miles per hour--I also confirmed this with other drivers. Somebody should be horse-whipped as we spend hours and hours tuning to get best lap times and keeping records.
The rear camber bias actually reflects most modern cars. Pretty much everything I fond myself sat behind in traffic has more rear camber than front. I believe this is done to provoke understeer, as manufacturers would rather you understeer off the road, rather than oversteer right in the middle of it..!! As for the rear toe, I've no idea why they upped it to +.060...
The rear camber bias actually reflects most modern cars. Pretty much everything I fond myself sat behind in traffic has more rear camber than front. I believe this is done to provoke understeer, as manufacturers would rather you understeer off the road, rather than oversteer right in the middle of it..!! As for the rear toe, I've no idea why they upped it to +.060...
{Cy}
PS - As always, happy to be corrected...
have they really fixed it? cars shouldn't run more camber on the rear, and a +0.60° angle of toe seems a lot.Edit: Oops, treed while I was typing.
Not sure if this has been mentioned in another thread, but the default alignments are radically different now.I went through my garage and checked the defaults on about 40 cars, and came up with this:
Most road cars:
Front camber: 0.5 or 0.0
Rear camber: 1.5 or 0.0
Front toe: 0.00
Rear toe: 0.60
So far every FR and MR I've found has the 0.5/1.5 camber setup. AWD cars can have either 0.5/1.5 or 0.0/0.0. All the FFs I've checked were 0.0/0.0.
Most race cars:
Front camber: 1.5
Rear camber: 3.5
Front toe: -0.50
Rear toe: 1.00
The most radical change on both road and race cars appears to be the added rear toe, up from 0.20 on most cars. I've been a fan of using lots of rear toe-in for added stability, to the point where several people on GTP called it excessive. I wonder how they feel about this. The rear camber bias is also a bit interesting, not sure what conclusions to draw from that quite yet.
pics/links or it didn't happen... just went out in the street to check your claim and nope, no camber on the front or back, maybe a little toe out on a few cars.The rear camber bias actually reflects most modern cars.
Yesterday, I discovered that ALL my cars have lost 2 miles per hour--I also confirmed this with other drivers. Somebody should be horse-whipped as we spend hours and hours tuning to get best lap times and keeping records.
In a straight line I take it?
I suspect it has a lot to do with the improved surface contact portion in the physics update. To me the cars display a higher susceptiblity to the effects of "virtual" gravity and this is how the effects of running over kerbs, cornerstones and bumps have been altered. I know it sounds odd but I have noticed that the cars ride the kerb better and don't lift as much if hit too hard as well as settling down a lot quicker once the car returns to the track.
If this is the case and I'm not just imagining it, it means that although the mass of the cars stay the same, the weight of the cars have now increased
it's one of the documented change, reduced speed for a few cars.So that's like, 1% difference on a car that does 200mph? Which is quite within the limits of say, engine performance variations between night and day, warm/cold day, high/low humidity, different brands of fuel etc etc
Or perhaps the cars are going the same speed, but the speedometer has been calibrated. Most speedometers have a tolerance of around ±10%
Yesterday, I discovered that ALL my cars have lost 2 miles per hour--I also confirmed this with other drivers. Somebody should be horse-whipped as we spend hours and hours tuning to get best lap times and keeping records.
That's because you're running zero camber, which creates way more drag.