Different grade of tires: your experiences and opinions

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@Ridox2JZGTE Why do you state comfort soft - Sports medium?

Is that just the range the tune is set up best for, with comfort soft being the closest to the cars actual tyres?
Yes, it's tire range suitable for the car, comfort soft is the stock factory tire and up to sports medium ( soft compound semi slick for track day ), I consider Sports Soft to be very close to hard slick tire in grip, I have built GT4 replica which use SS tire to achieve real GT4 lap times on hard slick and still can beat the record by several seconds even with same spec ( power, weight and gearing )
 
No way on CS O_o
I guess 8:20 is more realistic; it must have used special compound or a very special setup... Or maybe it was the scuderia? (I presume it's faster)?

7'55 was by Horst Von Saurma for Autosport so is a trustworthy source and almost certainly a stock car and not a complete lap.... he ran 7.39 in the Scud (I think the Scud has MPSS or Corsa stock).

In any case, just goes to reinforce how far out the stock tyre fitment in GT6 is as current best (full) Nurburgring lap in the 430 is a 7.08 on SH :lol:


Anyone up for F430 Scuderia lap run at Spa ? The real life record there is 2:40s flat. Aim that time :P Feel free to use stock tune or this replica :P

Not trying to piss on your fire, but are you trying to create something that looks like the real thing or drives like the real thing?

If you're trying to create a car that drives like the real thing I struggle to see how this is a 'replica tune' given GT6 settings have been shown not to work as per real life...
  1. You need a negative rake in GT6 to represent a positive rake in RL (ride height is reversed)
  2. You cannot compensate for the reversed ride height with dampers - ride height is one of the settings (along with LSD and rear toe) that has a massively disproportionate effect on a car's handling - dampers have relatively little effect
  3. So far, I've seen (and felt!) nothing that reassures me camber has been fixed post 1.09
Multiple elements of that tune will kill any rotation a car has in GT6 and will create a car that understeers... which is likely why you need to use the throttle to get it to turn.
  1. Negative rake
  2. Front ballast
  3. Very high rear +ve toe
  4. High LSD decel
In addition, whilst many people use higher higher brake settings in GT6 to make trail braking easier, I no of no road car that actually has a higher rear brake balance in real life.
 
Okay, now for the step #2.

For even more lifelike experience, the driving should be done in the online lobby mode, with the following settings:

- track grip reduction - REAL
- tire wear / fuel depletion - ON
- sipstream - OFF

None of the "offline" options can provide proper surface setting, nor simulate the changes in balance induced by tire wear and fuel-depletion. Slipstream OFF is using non-altered aero physics as well.

In addition, whilst I often use higher higher brake settings in GT6 to make trail braking easier, I no of no road car that actually has a higher rear brake balance in real life.

How can you even use it?

I am driving without ABS and I can't use rear BB setting on ANY car higher than 1. In order to avoid lockup and spin, there is no setting other than "1" for the rear brakes and then I have to experiment with the front-balance values, dependable of the car.

It is the same for AWD, RR, FR or MR cars.

I am using CSPV2 pedals BTW
 
Okay, now for the step #2.

For even more lifelike experience, the driving should be done in the online lobby mode, with the following settings:

- track grip reduction - REAL
- tire wear / fuel depletion - ON
- sipstream - OFF

None of the "offline" options can provide proper surface setting, nor simulate the changes in balance induced by tire wear and fuel-depletion. Slipstream OFF is using non-altered aero physics as well.
This is a very good point, and one I had thought of afterwards, it is something I will be doing going forward as well ;)


How can you even use it?

I am driving without ABS and I can't use rear BB setting on ANY car higher than 1. In order to avoid lockup and spin, there is no setting other than "1" for the rear brakes and then I have to experiment with the front-balance values, dependable of the car.

It is the same for AWD, RR, FR or MR cars.

I am using CSPV2 pedals BTW

I rarely go to BB "1" on either front or rear. You have to be careful at low speed for sure but higher speeds will still brake plenty hard without "erratic lock". I believe right now I am running the RUF at 4/4 on CM and 3/3 on CS and really only have to fight locking below 80mph. Trailbraking works just fine for me without adding rear bias. Could just be my particular style, I don't know. I'll have to look later.
 
I rarely go to BB "1" on either front or rear. You have to be careful at low speed for sure but higher speeds will still brake plenty hard without "erratic lock". I believe right now I am running the RUF at 4/4 on CM and 3/3 on CS and really only have to fight locking below 80mph. Trailbraking works just fine for me without adding rear bias. Could just be my particular style, I don't know. I'll have to look later.
Another factor of course is standard vs. racing brakes. Racing brakes have far more bite and are far harder to use on street cars without ABS. Standard brakes on the other hand work great without ABS and provide a longer pedal throw before lockup even at higher settings.
 
I rarely go to BB "1" on either front or rear. You have to be careful at low speed for sure but higher speeds will still brake plenty hard without "erratic lock". I believe right now I am running the RUF at 4/4 on CM and 3/3 on CS and really only have to fight locking below 80mph. .

I still do not understand do you drive with or without ABS?

I you drive with ABS, why would you even adjust the brake balance (BB)? ABS is simply overriding any settings like that, because it adds both straight-line braking assist as well as stability and traction assist.

However, if you driving without ABS, you should really make changes in the way you alter BB. Speaking purely from my head, any RUF would ask for 5/1 or 6/1 (front/rear) brake bias setting, in order to compensate for additional weight-transfer induced by having engine at the rear (on both Comfort or Sports compound).

With any setting on the rear-brakes higher than "1", you will get spinning - especially on RR cars such as RUFs - simply because the power of braking will leave rear axle threshold locked too much.

Also, the "Race Brakes" should not be used for any tire-compound except Racing Tires, because the "dynamics" of Comfort or Sports tires are simply not suitable for the Racing Brake Pads (as represented in the game).

All above my personal opinion.
 
I still do not understand do you drive with or without ABS?

I you drive with ABS, why would you even adjust the brake balance (BB)? ABS is simply overriding any settings like that, because it adds both straight-line braking assist as well as stability and traction assist.

However, if you driving without ABS, you should really make changes in the way you alter BB. Speaking purely from my head, any RUF would ask for 5/1 or 6/1 (front/rear) brake bias setting, in order to compensate for additional weight-transfer induced by having engine at the rear (on both Comfort or Sports compound).

With any setting on the rear-brakes higher than "1", you will get spinning - especially on RR cars such as RUFs - simply because the power of braking will leave rear axle threshold locked too much.

Also, the "Race Brakes" should not be used for any tire-compound except Racing Tires, because the "dynamics" of Comfort or Sports tires are simply not suitable for the Racing Brake Pads (as represented in the game).

All above my personal opinion.
I am NOT using ABS for this and in my experience so far the weight transfer hasn't been an issue as I am usually controlling it with the throttle. Again perhaps it's just my individual style, not sure :odd:
 
I you drive with ABS, why would you even adjust the brake balance (BB)? ABS is simply overriding any settings like that, because it adds both straight-line braking assist as well as stability and traction assist.

Also, the "Race Brakes" should not be used for any tire-compound except Racing Tires, because the "dynamics" of Comfort or Sports tires are simply not suitable for the Racing Brake Pads (as represented in the game).

I spend most of my time TTing, and you really need to use ABS to be competitive on them.

When using ABS, a higher rear BB makes cars easier to trail brake, and can also induce 'brake release oversteer' - where the rear will rotate sharply when the brake is release whilst still turning... helps point the car in to the apex (or creates a half spin if you get it wrong!).

ABS also allows you to use racing brakes with lower grip tyres.

The way ABS is implemented in GT6 is, IMO, the single biggest flaw in the physics engine... it acts more like a stability control than ABS and over rides so many other aspects of the engine. But as I said, if you TT you need to use it or you're just not competitive.

Edit... this really belongs in the physics thread rather than the tyres thread :lol:
 
Not trying to piss on your fire, but are you trying to create something that looks like the real thing or drives like the real thing?

If you're trying to create a car that drives like the real thing I struggle to see how this is a 'replica tune' given GT6 settings have been shown not to work as per real life...
  1. You need a negative rake in GT6 to represent a positive rake in RL (ride height is reversed)
  2. You cannot compensate for the reversed ride height with dampers - ride height is one of the settings (along with LSD and rear toe) that has a massively disproportionate effect on a car's handling - dampers have relatively little effect
  3. So far, I've seen (and felt!) nothing that reassures me camber has been fixed post 1.09
Multiple elements of that tune will kill any rotation a car has in GT6 and will create a car that understeers... which is likely why you need to use the throttle to get it to turn.
  1. Negative rake
  2. Front ballast
  3. Very high rear +ve toe
  4. High LSD decel
In addition, whilst many people use higher higher brake settings in GT6 to make trail braking easier, I no of no road car that actually has a higher rear brake balance in real life.


I suggest to drive the car first before making statements :) This replica was done and posted on my garage a while ago - back in 1.08 when camber still broken ( car loses grip with any amount of camber ) and I can do 2:39s without any issue and the car drives pretty well without ABS and the BB as posted.

I haven't driven the car again on 1.09, but anyone who does can give feedback, which is the main goal of me posting it here.

You obviously never driven any of my tune/replica :) The Scuderia height difference is only 12mm, the effect is minimal compared to tuner who use max / min value ( front or rear ) and damper does help in this car, the rake is not extreme and I made sure the spring rate supports the suspension well. The spring rate actually used on real car, I consulted with Ferrarichat.com Scud owners :) So I built replica with general aim of replicating as close as possible the specs ( power, weight, gearing, LSD characteristics etc ) and try to made them drive as realistic as well, no matter how hard it is to drive in GT6 it might become.

If I wanted a shortcut, I would reverse the ride height difference, but no, I stick to it :P and it still can beat the real life lap record on comfort soft and no aids. I am sure drivers with aids will get even quicker times.

The toe is actually the real value used on most F430 Scuderia, 0.50 degree, this is to reduce snap oversteer that often happen with badly setup toe rear toe which is caused by the rear suspension geometry that goes toe out under load. And the replica still perform well with such toe value back in 1.08.

The ballast is at the rear, not front ;) The weight distribution in GT6 is inaccurate, and I have to use data from actual car corner weight posted on Ferrari forums, more weight at the rear, with a driver would be 42/58.

High Decel LSD is actually not a bad thing, what is it with people who prefer to drive cars with near open diff setup in GT6 ( values below 10 or mid 10s ) :) I asked around, and there are Scud owners who run low ramp angle on both drive side and coast/brake with custom medium/high torque preload for track racing/club racing. Anyway, I always prefer cars that have working diff that progressively locks and maintain traction better.

Run the car with no brake assist, it won't be as tight with brake assist.

@amar212 :

For BB with higher rear value, I can drive most cars just fine with higher rear BB value, up to 2 click higher, 6/8 on non racing brakes for example. The rear does not lock first, it varies from car to car, GT6 brake balance do not represent actual force applied, even with 5/5, the front bias is still a lot on some cars. There are cars that can run 3/7 BB and still the front will lock first before the rear follows in succession.

This is the reason, @Stotty, that real life brake balance can't be compared to GT6, GT6 brake balance do not work in the same way, a value of 1/1 is not actually 1/1 on front and rear, the bias is hidden inside the car parameter.


Here is another one - A GT4 car that I posted recently, it shares similar rake/height difference ( at 13mm front lower ), it can post 2:13s at Silverstone GP, the benchmark real life qualifying laps ( poles ) are around 2:14s. So far, I have received good feedback about the car, this was built on 1.08 with camber, and drives well on 1.09 without any changes.

One member having hard time to get into 2:13s earlier, but has managed to break into recently. I even posted my run ( replay ) for reference done with the 86GT GT4 on yellow chassis ( deteriorate ) due to high mileage. The car has racing brakes and 5/6 BB was used on the replay with no brake assist, time at 2:13.025 :D Should have been 2:12s :P

And racing brakes works on all tires, tune the brake balance value, at least for me :P

GPRM 86GT GT4 Replay Silverstone GP 2:13s, SS tire, no assist, BB 5/6, yellow deteriorated chassis



GPRM Motorsport TOYOTA 86GT Turbo GT4 Replica

Tuned to replicate GPRM GT86 Turbo GT4
Sports Soft



CAR : Toyota 86 'Racing' '13
Tire : Sports Soft


Specs
Horsepower: 399 HP at 8000 RPM
Torque : 287.4 ft-lb at 5500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 1190 kg
Ballast : 47 kg
Ballast Position : -35
Weight Distribution : 54 / 46 as the real car spec.
Performance Points: 508

GT AUTO
Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( INSTALLED ) -MANDATORY - GT4 cars are seam welded and has weld in cage.
Aero Kits Type A
Custom Rear Wing :
Wing Mount Standard Type B
Wing Large Type B
Winglets Large Type C
Height -5 and Width -32
Wheels : +1 Inch Up - OZ RACING Ultraleggera or RAYS 57Xtreme in grey or silver
Car Paint : White, Black, or Grey


Tuning Parts Installed :
Engine Tuning Stage 3
Sports Computer
Racing Exhaust
Isometric Exhaust Manifold
Intake Tuning
Mid RPM Range Turbo Kit
Catalytic Converter Sports
Fully Customizable Suspension
Adjustable LSD
Racing Brakes Kit
Weight Reduction Stage 1



Suspension - EIBACH Sportsline Springs / Koni 2 Way Damper Kit
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 93 106
Spring Rate: 15.67 18.67
Dampers (Compression): 8 7
Dampers (Extension): 9 8
Anti-Roll Bars: 6 5
Camber Angle: 3.0 1.2
Toe Angle: -0.16 0.08



2013-Toyota-GT86-GT4-rear-three-quarter-623x389.jpg


LSD - 1.5 Way 55/75 Salisbury type LSD High Preload
Initial Torque : 24
Acceleration Sensitivity: 27
Braking Sensitivity: 10


AERO:
REAR : 20 ( Max )


Brake Balance:
5/6 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 4/5, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance. I would recommend to run just one click higher on rear brake.

Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 5/6 brake balance as starting point.



Notes :

This replica is very hard to built with very limited information available on the car. Early 2013, the car was on the news, it may have been the first 86 built for GT4 class.

The GPRM Ltd who built the car stated it has 350-400HP with turbo added. Not much else was disclosed, so I have to improvise. I used the base model for CS V3 Cup car as a base setup for the GT4 car. Suspension uses similar spring rate with revised ride height and tweaking on the damper, ARB, toe and camber. The real car uses Eibach Sportsline coil springs and Koni 2 way fully adjustable damper.

LSD uses high preload 1.5 way with medium/high lock 55/75 to replicate Salisbury type diff used on the GPRM GT86 GT4. I leave the gearbox in stock form as it's more than enough to do the job and quite versatile on various tracks ( the real car has 6 speed sequential conversion but may still uses stock ratio as the Brit24 86 car also built GPRM uses stock ratio ). Weight distribution has also been fixed ( similar to the CS V3 Cup car ) The weight figure is slightly less than CS V3 Cup 86, with 1190kg, I pick this value considering the GT4 car has stripped out interior, perspex windows, lightened body shell and similar chassis modification to CS V3 Cup.

For closer performance compared to other GT4 cars, I decided on 399HP power using mid rpm turbo, this allows the GT86 to lap quite close to real life times at Silverstone GP. During testing, the car is capable of 2:13s lap on SS tire.
 
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ABS in GT games is not simulation of the real-life ABS system, nor it ever was. It is a braking assist, named "ABS".

For instance, in GT2, both ABS and TCS assists were not available on cars as default, but they were part of the Tuning Shop offer.

Also, TCS is not representative (simulation) of real-life traction control.

In short, all assits in GT - ABS, TCS, ASM - are exactly that, assists. They are not intentded to "simulate" the functionality of similar assits in real-life but to serve as an assist for their field of assistance in virtual driving.

Using ABS on some car in GT games because "that car have ABS in real life" does not mean you are suddenly using that car under "factotry spec". It means you are overshadowing the proper handling and dynamics of the car with the exessive assist.

Of course, such assist allows for the much faster driving in TT, but it is logical. In the perfect world we would have separated leaderboards, one with assists available and other with assists disabled (ABS included). However, it would ask for change in defualt setups for all cars since the difference in ways brake bias is represented with the same values on different devices is vast - values I use for CSPV2 pedals are unusable on G25 and viceversa.
 
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I have not generally found it necessary to reduce the rear brakes as much as I used to in the last game. The only times I have had to set them to 1 or 2 in GT6 is with particularly unruly cars under braking like some of the most spin-happy AWDs -- or with race brakes on low-grip tires which have the fronts just as low. 90% of my rear lockups seem to involve downshifting incorrectly or hitting a bump wrong. In one or two cars I've even run a higher rear strength than front. Maybe it's just me but it seems much more forgiving in this installment. And of course I'm not terribly fast nor an expert tuner.

The car being used is very important. GT6 brake strength varies widely from car to car independent of whether racing brakes or standard brakes are fitted. Some need to be reduced overall to make driving on SH or CS tires manageable, others seem fine at my start-point of 5/4 even with CM or CH. Some of the cars have to have brake strength increased just to use all the grip you have, as even with SH and 5/5 standard brakes it will be completely impossible to even approach locking any tire at speed.

The basically stock C9 I was just driving I ran at 8/7 on RH and had no problems just for one random example, yet other racecars I can't increase and may need to decrease the strength for RH and certainly SS. If 100% braking fom max speed down to under 50mph doesn't even produce a chirp from the tires your braking distance is probably longer than it needs to be, and I don't think even GT's magic ABS would solve that problem without increasing the brake strength.

The actual values used and F/R bias of course vary from person to person and their input device. Some people like to use 100% brake pedal. I want to have 100% cause locking every time on my Clubsports, and then I try to stay below the point of locking. I think Ridox2JZGTE prefers the brakes to lock even easier than me. Some people even enjoy driving with ABS, and so have a completely different approach to brake strength settings. :)

But I suppose Stotty is right, this is straying from the real topic of the thread. Took too long to type this however so I'm not going to delete it.
 
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ABS Off and tire choice are very closely related. One aspect in tire choice that bothers me is trying to run Sports or Comfort tires on older race cars with ABS Off. Lock up occurs way too readily.

I'm curious to hear what folks do with the oldies like Ferrari 330, Ford MKIV etc. Thanks.

I use a modded DFGT.
 
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ABS Off and tire choice are very closely related. One aspect in tire choice that bothers me is trying to run Sports or Comfort tires on older race cars with ABS Off. Lock up occurs way too readily.

I'm curious to hear what folks do with the oldies like Ferrari 330, Ford MKIV etc. Thanks.

I use a modded DFGT.
Lower the BB values.


Anyway, how did this topic get so far off into posting tunes and debating assists and BB? I agree that they relate to tire experience but some of this seems to be starting to go way off topic :odd:
 
^Yes that's obvious but I've had too much sensitivity at even 1/0 on a lot of race cars. Probably an input device issue but it's annoying.
 
Anyway, how did this topic get so far off into posting tunes and debating assists and BB? I agree that they relate to tire experience but some of this seems to be starting to go way off topic :odd:
It's discussion about how tuning relates to lower grade tires. I don't see how it's that far off, and I support it if it makes people more receptive to the idea.
 
I've done a few laps on a 100% wet red bull ring in my stock enzo. Sports hard were much slower in these conditions than comfort soft. Unfortunately sports tyres are not correctly represented in game (graphically), they appear as road legal cut slicks in only the garage icon, on the car in game they have full tread pattern. I think this is why most people think sports tyres are road tyres.
 
To me, cars feel harder to control with racing tires because the loss of grip is too fast, almost every time the car starts to oversteer it spins out. It reminds me of GRID 1 physics.
Sports tires are less grippy, but the transition from traction to no traction is way much smoother and easier to correct oversteer.
Racing tires are sticky. That's normal although it may seem weird. It does suck because cars are snappy on recovery too which can throw you out of control but if you've ever raced, you don't want to slide everywhere. It may look cool and feel cool but you rarely see any type of traction loss in pro racing (outside of some nascar drivers that like a loose tail). Even for the amateur, tires are too expensive to drive that way and pros can't pit that much so even though Top Gear may slide around the track, you never see the Stig sliding very much even in a car that is prone to oversteer. Also, many of the top supercars (911, etc), they typically understeer on purpose to force you into more controlled driving which leads to better times. Understeer is more easy to detect and correct on the next lap than oversteer is. Oversteer happy cars are a guessing game sometimes.
 
Racing tires are sticky. That's normal although it may seem weird. It does suck because cars are snappy on recovery too which can throw you out of control but if you've ever raced, you don't want to slide everywhere. It may look cool and feel cool but you rarely see any type of traction loss in pro racing (outside of some nascar drivers that like a loose tail). Even for the amateur, tires are too expensive to drive that way and pros can't pit that much so even though Top Gear may slide around the track, you never see the Stig sliding very much even in a car that is prone to oversteer. Also, many of the top supercars (911, etc), they typically understeer on purpose to force you into more controlled driving which leads to better times. Understeer is more easy to detect and correct on the next lap than oversteer is. Oversteer happy cars are a guessing game sometimes.
Your right, an extreme example of this was Kimi Raikkonen bouncing back on track this weekend. The car snapped so violently even a world class driver couldn't react quickly enough.
 


So what tires do we figure are comparable in GT to what they were using in the video? I started with some practice laps with the NSX-R and CH's, stock, no assists, normal view with the DFGT and the best lap I could do is 1:10 and change which is about 5 seconds off the pace. I'm going to try CM's next and see if I can improve my times, but maybe it's the driver (me) that's slower, not necessairly the tires.
 
So what tires do we figure are comparable in GT to what they were using in the video? I started with some practice laps with the NSX-R and CH's, stock, no assists, normal view with the DFGT and the best lap I could do is 1:10 and change which is about 5 seconds off the pace. I'm going to try CM's next and see if I can improve my times, but maybe it's the driver (me) that's slower, not necessairly the tires.
If we're just trying to match lap times it all depends on your skill level, driving style, how much you want to attack the course, whether you're using ABS or not, etc. It'll be different for each pilot, you just have to experiment, see what feedback others have for the same combo and settle in on what works for you. For some it might take the stock SH or CS to feel comfortable, for others CM or CH.
 
I might also add, if you have access to onboard video, make a note of the cornering speed, shift pattern, they give clues to what kind of tires suited best in GT6, try to drive in the same pace as well. Stock NSX R '02 would be best on CM tire, should be possible to lap in 1:04s range, Tsukuba lap record for NSX R '02 ( Tsuchiya's NSX R NA2 )
 
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I might also add, if you have access to onboard video, make a note of the cornering speed, shift pattern, they give clues to what kind of tires suited best in GT6, try to drive in the same pace as well. Stock NSX R '02 would be best on CM tire, should be possible to lap in 1:04s range, Tsukuba lap record for NSX R '02 ( Tsuchiya's NSX R NA2 )

They were running an older version of the NSX-R in the video and the driver mentioned the tires weren't very wide in his opinion.

I used CH in my test with the '92 NSX-R, but maybe CM would work better.
 
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They were running an older version of the NSX-R in the video and the driver mentioned the tired weren't very wide in his opinion.

I used CH in my test with the '92 NSX-R, but maybe CM would work better.

For the NA1 NSX, CH is fine, I have Acura NSX replica on CH that was tested on Laguna Seca, it can lap faster than real life later model Acura NSX.

1:04.70 real life lap done by Keiichi Tsuchiya is his own tuned NSX, only suspension was tuned, with custom coilover. He also fitted slightly wider 18 inch rear tires ( Potenza RE ). I am building similar replica on CM, to see if 1:04s is possible on stock power NSX R NA2 with only suspension and LSD. Best Motoring best lap on fully stock NSX R NA2 is 1:05.05 :), while NSX Type S Zero did 1:05.17
 
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I know one thing, it must be nice to be a racing soft, no tire wear, no damage, boost, no real settings fan, because if you are, online in GT6 is your playground. If your a fan of more realistic settings such as sport hards or less, mechanical damage, settings on real, tire and fuel depletion, then online is a frustrating baron wasteland to you and me. I'm so sick of looking thru all these rooms and can't find nothing that I can relate to, then when you do find something you go in the room and they have it set up all crazy, like sport hards but no tire wear and boost on, or it could be a comfort soft room but they are doing 390pp, like you can drive supercars on comforts you know or regular 500pp or below cars.

There are times when I open a room or find one with likeminded individuals such as myself and get some good driving/racing in but it's rare and to far in between. Now I do have friends on my list that when we do get together it's great but a lot of times I guess we have different schedules. All I'm saying is and yes this is on topic because it revolves around tires, GT Online is a vast playground for you if your a racing soft fan.:irked:
 
just come up toghether and make a new serie, people will join up, i'm sure!
Except that for people like myself, and many others, it can be really difficult to commit to predetermined dates and times.

This is where shuffle was great. The ability to simply jump into a room when time allows is what many are looking for. Sadly it doesn't yet exist.
 
i'm switching to harder compound now that i've lowered my force feedback setting.

i think that those that like to play on racing tires are those that like to wrestle the wheel because they find it more realistic; instead using a lower FFB (at least on my DFGT wheel) allows for very interesting and intense racing.

too high ffb on low grade tires makes it impossible to countersteer and fast controlling the car. The feeling is way better on race tires and race softs on max ffb....

i think i understood from where the tire grade debate and all the misunderstanding are coming.

i must be a genius lol
 
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