Example of MoTeC data analysis

  • Thread starter ALB123
  • 316 comments
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Im doing test on a Focus ST using the fixed gears eliminating the 2.950 FD in 5th and 6th. The car tops off at 163mph and Ive seen a video on youtube of the car going up to 160mph. So only a 3mph difference, and this is not touching the rev limiter. I dont know its 0 to 155mph (stock zero to top speed figure on paper) or its 0 to 160mph the actual top speed.

I think the top speed issue may also be horse power related, so the higher power cars will have a noticeable difference where lower powered cars any difference may be negligible.
 
NandoRock
The difference is much big to be negligible. Did you use automatic transmission? TC or other aids?
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Doesn't look that big to me.. I was using manual shifts, and crapy DS3, so I didn't shift properly too. I was also using steering corrections (with DS3). But I think the major difference is in track surface. SSRX is very smoooth, while Monza (without chicanes) - not so much. So you can loose a second easily. Also there could be 'above sea level' or 'going incline' differences or any other small nuances between tracks which may be calculated by PD...who knows. In any case, +- 1-2sec is nothing, compared to ~20sec+ against real life.
 
Jimmy Howlett
Are you using motec i2 to analyze the data?

& what is your source for your top speed data from the real cars?
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Yes, ofcourse. This thread is about motec, isn't it?

I posted the source links in my previous post in this thread. Together with some other interesting links about this issue. It should be on page 1 or page 2 of this thread

Jimmy Howlett
I think the top speed issue may also be horse power related, so the higher power cars will have a noticeable difference where lower powered cars any difference may be negligible.
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Notice that we are testing stock/unmodified/street sports cars here...if you take racing car (like LMP, GT500, etc) - they all have more or less correct speeds (although sometimes even too low!)

However I did not test them thoroughly so I might be wrong. Also racing cars are influenced a lot by tuning, so you can't get stable reference and there is no accurate data to be found about acceleration and top speeds.
 
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Does all real life tests done on perfectly level surface ? The altitude also different, magazine tests usually do not lists these information and even some of them have different result on the same exact car model/year.
 
With the Veyron, what tire do you use ? I think CS would be a good start. The Ferrari 512BB uses CH tire, with Ferrari official curb weight + power + real life distribution, at close to 1600kg / 335HP, and it's still a bit quicker in 0 - 60 mph, quarter mile and standing 1 km.
 
Ridox2JZGTE
With the Veyron, what tire do you use ? I think CS would be a good start. The Ferrari 512BB uses CH tire, with Ferrari official curb weight + power + real life distribution, at close to 1600kg / 335HP, and it's still a bit quicker in 0 - 60 mph, quarter mile and standing 1 km.
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I used 100% default car settings - what PD gave. I think it was SH for Veyron. My thinking is that because different GT cars have different default tyres (some have SH, others have CH, etc) - these are the tyres they have in real world from the showroom.

In any case, tyres can influence 0-100 numbers only. And braking, 100-0
 
YZF
I used 100% default car settings - what PD gave. I think it was SH for Veyron. My thinking is that because different GT cars have different default tyres (some have SH, other have CH, etc) - these are the tyres they have in real world from the showroom.

In any case, tyres can influence 0-100 numbers only. And braking, 100-0
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You have no idea mate :) CH to CS with the Ferrari 512BB gives a lot of difference that grows to seconds the higher the speed / longer the distance. And your take on GT6 default tires is simply wrong - they have much higher grip than factory fitted tire, take a look at my replicas and their targeted real life lap times, almost all of the stock factory replica uses comfort tires. And I'm not even touching the weight + distribution ( almost all of them wrong ), alignment values ( all wrong :lol: ), gearing ( some of them wrong ), and springs.

You need at least as closest as possible setup to real life ( weight + distribution, power, suspension setup, tires, gearing ) and drive the car like in real life when doing straight line tests, then we can compare more accurately. I know the result will be off :) but it won't be as large in time difference.
 
YZF
Yes, ofcourse. This thread is about motec, isn't it?
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Please post pics of the runs if you can so we can see the data,

& Link the source data per real world test please. Its hard enough looking through the page in translated mode Id prefer not to fish through the site to check your source.

YZF
Notice that we are testing stock/unmodified/street sports cars here...
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No I mean street cars too, cars with less hp cars under 500hp. Im testing the Focus ST right now with 252hp stock. It pulls to 163mph top speed not rev limited. You've tested super cars so far with very high HP like the Veyron.

Also testing lower speed cars we can see around what speed the difference becomes more than negligible, like the 3mph faster top speed of the Focus ST, thats Negligible at 163mph.
 
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Jimmy Howlett
No I mean cars with less hp cars under 500hp. Im testing the Focus ST right now with 252hp stock. It pulls to 163mph top speed not rev limited.

Please post pics of the runs if you can so we can see the data
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I recalled there's a thread made about fixing the Focus ST 2013 gearing, was that made by you ?

I have both 2013 and 2014 Focus ST replica ( CM tire ), they are accurate with gearing fixes and MotorTrend Best Car test lap time as reference ( speeds and G's ) :D
 
Ridox2JZGTE
I recalled there's a thread made about fixing the Focus ST 2013 gearing, was that made by you ?

I have both 2013 and 2014 Focus ST replica ( CM tire ), they are accurate with gearing fixes and MotorTrend Best Car test lap time as reference ( speeds and G's ) :D
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What were Motor Trends times?
 
Jimmy Howlett
What were Motor Trends times?
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Here are both of them, 2013 Laguna Seca Randy Pobst MotorTrend ( 1:49.30 ) , 2014 Streets of Willow Springs Randy Pobst MotorTrend ( 1:29.68 ) - both on CM and drives very close to real life performance.

Ridox2JZGTE
FORD Focus ST 2013 Replica

Tuned to replicate Focus ST 2013

Comfort Medium​




CAR : Ford Focus ST '13
Tire : Comfort Medium

Specs
Horsepower: 252 HP at 5300 RPM
Torque : 267.8 ft-lb at 2500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 92.5%
Weight: 1462 kg
Ballast : 191 kg
Ballast Position : -50
Weight Distribution : 60 / 40 as the real car spec when tested.
Performance Points: 431


GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED )
Wheels : Stock
Car Paint : White or Orange or Blue




Tuning Parts Installed :
Intake Tuning
Fully Customizable Suspension
Adjustable LSD
Fully Customizable Dog Clutch Transmission
Weight Reduction Stage 2


Suspension - Ford Factory ST Tuned Springs Ratio + Damper with
ST Tuned Street/Track Alignment Range
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 120 120
Spring Rate: 4.77 5.11
Dampers (Compression): 5 4
Dampers (Extension): 6 8
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 3
Camber Angle: 1.3 2.0 ( Front camber : -1.30 +- 0.30, Rear Camber : -2.00+-0.00 )
Toe Angle: 0.10 0.16 ( Front Toe In : 0.10 +- 0.15, Rear Toe In : 0.16 +- 0.56 )

OPTIONAL Factory Street Alignment :
Front
Camber ( Driver Side ) : -0.83 +- 0.75
Camber ( Passenger Side ) : -0.93 +- 0.75
Total Toe In : 0.20 +- 0.20

Rear
Camber : -1.35 +- 0.75
Total Toe In : 0.38 +- 0.20


DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - Corrected Stock GETRAG MMT6 Dual Output Shaft Ratio with 4.063 Final
Install all power parts
Set Default
Set Auto Max Speed at 280kmh / 174mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 3.231
2nd 1.952
3rd 1.321
4th 1.029
5th 0.821 - Actual Ratio : 1.129 with 2nd final drive 2.955
6th 0.685 - Actual Ratio : 0.943 with 2nd final drive 2.955
Set Final :4.063



LSD - Traction Control Based Front Brake and Torque Vectoring Electronic LSD

Initial Torque : 15
Acceleration Sensitivity: 23
Braking Sensitivity: 5

OPTIONAL 2014 LSD ( Low Lock ) :
Initial Torque : 5
Acceleration Sensitivity: 15
Braking Sensitivity: 5


Brake Balance:
7/10 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 5/8, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.

Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 7/10 brake balance as starting point.

Notes :

The Ford Focus ST 2013 is one of the car in GT6 that is a stat disaster :lol:, wrong weight distribution, torque figure, spring rate too high and broken gearing.

For this replica, I made a corrected version, not really perfect, but as close as possible replicating the real car.

The Ford Focus ST 2013 has 270lb-ft torque, while in GT6 stock value is too low, I have installed intake tuning to get closer at 267.8ft-lb. Power limiter used to get 252HP stock value. Now, onto the weight distribution, the real car has 60/40 distribution, GT6 once again wrong, so I installed weight reduction stage 2 and put some ballast at -50 to get the proper distribution. Curb weight officially at 3223lbs / 1462kg.

For suspension, the stock spring rate is too high in GT6, and the real life stock value can't be reached ( not low enough on GT6 ). I chose to use the spring ratio instead and set the lowest possible spring rate on GT6.
The real car has 30N/mm or 171lb/in spring rate at the front and 32N/mm or 183lb/in spring rate at the rear, based on Ford Official documentation, but when tested by well respected suspension company, the actual rates are =

Front : 29N/mm or 166lb/in
Rear : 31N/mm or 177lb/in

Slightly lower than official stats.

For GT6, I used 4.77kg/mm or 267lb/in spring rate at the front and 5.11kg/mm or 286lb/in spring rate at the rear. This retains stock spring rate ratio, and I have tuned the damper and ARB to maintain balance similar to real life review, nimble with surgical precision while still can bite back on the limit.

I have also used Ford factory alignment ( camber and toe ), the alignment value used is recommended value by ST experts, while for daily driving factory alignment range are as below ( OPTIONAL ) :

Front
Camber ( Driver Side ) : -0.83 +- 0.75
Camber ( Passenger Side ) : -0.93 +- 0.75
Total Toe In : 0.20 +- 0.20

Rear
Camber : -1.35 +- 0.75
Total Toe In : 0.38 +- 0.20

The overall range of values are similar, but the one used on this replica offers better performance at the track.

Gearbox is another one that needs fixing, the real car uses Getrag MMT6 with dual output shaft which result in 2 different final drive, 4.063 final drive for the 1st to 4th gear, while 5th and 6th uses 2.955.
GT6 incorrectly set the 5th and 6th, which result on overly long gearing and useless. I have set the 5th and 6th with calculated effective ratio when 4.063 is used instead, this will replicate real life vehicle speed at max engine speed on all gears from 1st to 6th.

For LSD, I have setup in conjunction with brake balance to achieve similar effect to real life electronic based LSD and torque vectoring as well as cornering understeer control. I have use low preload and medium lock rate to give some locking action which reduce inside wheel spin and give some stability on mid corner, while the rear bias brake balance will help to give illusion of brake based system at the rear axle.

The real Focus ST uses several electronic system in synergy to maintain handling balance under heavy cornering, there's no mechanical parts that acts like limited slip differential. First is the brake based LSD, which relies on traction control system to maintain traction by applying brake pressure on each front wheel to reduce understeer. The Enhanced Torque Vectoring Control and Cornering Understeer Control work hand in hand on both front and rear axle to maintain balance, encourage oversteer, apply inside and outside brake pressure according situation. With trail braking, the Focus ST can be easily shifted to oversteer on entry, up to certain degree. When the car is really pushed hard at track pace, the brake based system is proven not really reliable, often resulting in overheated brake after several hot laps. When this happens, heavy understeer will slowly creep in which will show the Focus ST true colors.

Here is a quote from Randy Pobst on his experience at hot lapping the Focus ST at Laguna Seca MotorTrend Best Driver's Car 2013 :



Several tests review also shown that after several laps, the Focus ST tend to lose it's charm and starts to understeer as the braking performance reduced due to heat build up in the system.

I mainly tested the car at Tsukuba, Big Willow and Laguna Seca. At Laguna Seca, it can easily lap in 1:48s on comfort medium. The Best Driver's Car lap record is 1:49.30, driven by Pro Driver Randy Pobst ( MotorTrend )



Below I also provided a picture with detailed gearing and speed stat for the Getrag MMT6 on the Focus ST 2013, and a replay of the run at Laguna Seca for comparison to Randy Pobst lap :P

Watch it, to find out the similarity and difference in cornering as well as speed at braking points. Drive the Focus ST replica at Big Willow and Laguna Seca and hopefully you'll find pleasure like I do.



View attachment 228860


UPDATE : Added optional LSD with low lock to better reflect non mechanical LSD of the real car.
Click to expand...


Ridox2JZGTE
FORD Focus ST 2014 Replica

Tuned to replicate Focus ST 2014
Streets of Willow
April 2014 MotorTrend Head 2 Head Test​




CAR : Ford Focus ST '13
Tire : Comfort Medium

Specs
Horsepower: 252 HP at 5300 RPM
Torque : 267.8 ft-lb at 2500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 92.5%
Weight: 1462 kg
Ballast : 191 kg
Ballast Position : -50
Weight Distribution : 60 / 40 as the real car spec when tested.
Performance Points: 431


GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED )
Wheels : Stock
Car Paint : Red




Tuning Parts Installed :
Intake Tuning
Fully Customizable Suspension
Adjustable LSD
Fully Customizable Dog Clutch Transmission
Weight Reduction Stage 2


Suspension - Ford Factory ST Tuned Springs Ratio + Damper with
2014 ST Tuned Street/Track Alignment Range
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 120 120
Spring Rate: 4.77 5.11
Dampers (Compression): 5 4
Dampers (Extension): 6 8
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 3
Camber Angle: 1.6 2.0 ( Front camber : -1.30 +- 0.30, Rear Camber : -2.00+-0.00 )
Toe Angle: 0.05 0.20 ( Front Toe In : 0.10 +- 0.15, Rear Toe In : 0.16 +- 0.56 )

OPTIONAL Factory 2014 Model Year Street Alignment :
Front
Camber ( Driver Side ) : -0.90 +- 0.80
Total Toe In : 0.10 +- 0.20

Rear
Camber : -1.35 +- 0.75
Total Toe In : 0.38 +- 0.20


DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - Corrected Stock GETRAG MMT6 Dual Output Shaft Ratio with 4.063 Final
Install all power parts
Set Default
Set Auto Max Speed at 280kmh / 174mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 3.231
2nd 1.952
3rd 1.321
4th 1.029
5th 0.821 - Actual Ratio : 1.129 with 2nd final drive 2.955
6th 0.685 - Actual Ratio : 0.943 with 2nd final drive 2.955
Set Final :4.063



LSD - Traction Control Based Front Brake and Torque Vectoring Electronic LSD

Initial Torque : 5
Acceleration Sensitivity: 15
Braking Sensitivity: 5

OPTIONAL 2013 Model Year Replica LSD :
Initial Torque : 15
Acceleration Sensitivity: 23
Braking Sensitivity: 5


Brake Balance:
7/10 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 5/8, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.

Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 7/10 brake balance as starting point.

Notes :

The Ford Focus ST 2014 is built based on the 2013 replica, as the 2014 model year only has some interior changes and slightly different factory base alignment.

For this replica, I made a corrected version for 2014 aiming at replicating Streets of Willow lap record during April 2014 MotorTrend Head 2 Head Test against Subaru WRX 2015 Sedan, not really perfect, but as close as possible replicating the real car. The Focus 2014 loses to the WRX 2015 Sedan, the Focus was over 2 seconds slower at 1:29.68, while the WRX posted 1:27.32.

The Ford Focus ST 2014 has 270lb-ft torque, while in GT6 stock value is too low, I have installed intake tuning to get closer at 267.8ft-lb. Power limiter used to get 252HP stock value. Now, onto the weight distribution, the real car has 60/40 distribution, GT6 once again wrong, so I installed weight reduction stage 2 and put some ballast at -50 to get the proper distribution. Curb weight officially at 3223lbs / 1462kg.

For suspension, the stock spring rate is too high in GT6, and the real life stock value can't be reached ( not low enough on GT6 ). I chose to use the spring ratio instead and set the lowest possible spring rate on GT6.
The real car has 30N/mm or 171lb/in spring rate at the front and 32N/mm or 183lb/in spring rate at the rear, based on Ford Official documentation, but when tested by well respected suspension company, the actual rates are =

Front : 29N/mm or 166lb/in
Rear : 31N/mm or 177lb/in

Slightly lower than official stats.

For GT6, I used 4.77kg/mm or 267lb/in spring rate at the front and 5.11kg/mm or 286lb/in spring rate at the rear. This retains stock spring rate ratio, and I have tuned the damper and ARB to maintain balance similar to real life review, nimble with surgical precision while still can bite back on the limit.

I have also used Ford factory alignment ( camber and toe ), the alignment value used is recommended value by ST experts, while for daily driving factory alignment range are as below ( OPTIONAL ) :

Front
Camber : -0.90 +- 0.80
Total Toe In : 0.10 +- 0.20

Rear
Camber : -1.35 +- 0.75
Total Toe In : 0.38 +- 0.20

The overall range of values are similar, but the one used on this replica offers better performance at the track.

Gearbox is another one that needs fixing, the real car uses Getrag MMT6 with dual output shaft which result in 2 different final drive, 4.063 final drive for the 1st to 4th gear, while 5th and 6th uses 2.955.
GT6 incorrectly set the 5th and 6th, which result on overly long gearing and useless. I have set the 5th and 6th with calculated effective ratio when 4.063 is used instead, this will replicate real life vehicle speed at max engine speed on all gears from 1st to 6th.

For LSD, I have setup in conjunction with brake balance to achieve similar effect to real life electronic based LSD and torque vectoring as well as cornering understeer control. I have used lowest possible preload and low lock rate to give some locking action which reduce inside wheel spin and give some stability on mid corner, while the rear bias brake balance will help to give illusion of brake based system at the rear axle.

The real Focus ST uses several electronic system in synergy to maintain handling balance under heavy cornering, there's no mechanical parts that acts like limited slip differential. First is the brake based LSD, which relies on traction control system to maintain traction by applying brake pressure on each front wheel to reduce understeer. The Enhanced Torque Vectoring Control and Cornering Understeer Control work hand in hand on both front and rear axle to maintain balance, encourage oversteer, apply inside and outside brake pressure according situation. With trail braking, the Focus ST can be easily shifted to oversteer on entry, up to certain degree. When the car is really pushed hard at track pace, the brake based system is proven not really reliable, often resulting in overheated brake after several hot laps. When this happens, heavy understeer will slowly creep in which will show the Focus ST true colors.

Here is a quote from Randy Pobst on his experience at hot lapping the Focus ST at Laguna Seca MotorTrend Best Driver's Car 2013 :




And his impression on April 2014 MotorTrend Head 2 Head Test at Streets of Willow Springs :



Several tests review also shown that after several laps, the Focus ST tend to lose it's charm and starts to understeer as the braking performance reduced due to heat build up in the system.

I mainly tested the car at Tsukuba, Big Willow, Streets of Willow, and Laguna Seca. At Streets of Wllow, it can easily lap in 1:28s on comfort medium. The April 2014 Head 2 Head MotorTrend Test lap record was 1:29.68, driven by Pro Driver Randy Pobst.



Below I also provided a picture with detailed gearing and speed stat for the Getrag MMT6 on the Focus ST 2014, and a replay of the run at Streets of Willow for reference using the 2013 replica LSD and alignment :P

View attachment 228860


Watch it, to find out the similarity and difference in cornering, lowest and highest speed around corners, if you want more in depth, access the Data Logger and make observation on the peak G's around corners. I included screenshots from the April 2014 MotorTrend Head 2 Head Test Result.



Drive the Focus ST replica at Streets of Willow and hopefully you'll find pleasure like I do.
Click to expand...

If you want the replays, go to the actual post, I have provided replays for them to download.

2013 video of the lap :



2014 stats from the real life test :


 
Ford Focus 1/4 mile & Top Speed Pull @ SSRX

159.5mph in 104.862 the car will top off at 163mph

1/4 mile 14.755 @ 92.8mph

All Stock, Factory Tires, No Assist, Manual Shift with 6 gate and clutch



Yes Ive done lap analysis and there are some incredible features I will make more videos of that this weekend.
Ridox2JZGTE
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willow.png


Ridox2JZGTE
You can use magazine tests result and compare it :)
Click to expand...

It just sounded like you already had the data so I wouldn't have to fish for it.


Looking at your cornering speeds you are scary close


comparo.png


I see its all up to the driver how they want to play GT6. If anybody wants to talk real world gameplay some of use are pretty close, I think its a choice to go real or go space ship with jacked up front ends and all that Jazz........
 
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There is a reason I am such a big fan of @Ridox2JZGTE Tuning Garage. I know he painstakingly goes through each car and makes sure he is posting as close to a real world representation as possible. You are 100% correct, Jimmy, when you say that some people just want to jack the car up into a form that doesn't resemble the real world car at all and set insanely low lap times. That's cool...to each their own. Me? I am looking for as much realism as I can find. Yes, I will occasionally use a "cookie cutter" tune, as I call them. But, if I can compete with one of Ridox's real world replica tunes I WILL use that in the seasonal events. And that's pretty much all I use when driving for pleasure, with friends and what have you.

Can I ask you a question about how you isolate those quarter-mile runs and stuff in the MoTeC i2 software. Are you using "beacons"? I noticed we can place beacons along the track. Do you manually place beacons at exactly 1/4 mile or something? Or do you just look at the distance info from the software since it's on a straight track?

I'm am so jealous that I don't have the video capture device so I can't sync up video with my data in the MoTeC i2 software right now. So jealous...
 
MatskiMonk
Video has no use as far as I can tell ...
Click to expand...
I disagree. If I am analyzing one of my laps and I'm looking at the data and seeing that I am losing time in a particular corner and I can then visually see how I am taking the line through that particular corner I might be able to make the correction more easily the next time I get out on the track. With data only I just see the speed & time through a particular corner, but when that is matched to video evidence I think it can only enhance the ability to learn.
 
Man the top speed inaccuracies in this game is making me sad. IIRC it wasn't super accurate in GT5 either, but it wasn't way off like now. The odd thing is PD said they've improved the aerodynamic simulations for GT6 :boggled: I'm not sure what went wrong there...

Besides that and the wonky ride height and camber, it's good to see that everything else is spot on if you use lower grade tyres 👍 I've been playing a lot of PC sims recently, and although it's evident that GT6's physics has a lot of hand holding still, for a console game designed to appeal to the masses and hardcore alike it's pretty damn close 👍

Homework for PD in GT7:
Fix aerodynamic drag
Fix ride height
Fix camber
Include tyre pressure and inner/mid/outer temperature simulations
Include brake temp and fade simulations
Give us "Normal" tyre option so we don't have to guess which grade is closest to RL
Have a "Hardcore" mode which completely eliminates hidden stability assists
 
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ALB123
I disagree. If I am analyzing one of my laps and I'm looking at the data and seeing that I am losing time in a particular corner and I can then visually see how I am taking the line through that particular corner I might be able to make the correction more easily the next time I get out on the track. With data only I just see the speed & time through a particular corner, but when that is matched to video evidence I think it can only enhance the ability to learn.
Click to expand...

Yes sorry, I really didn't explain that one too well before I hit Post, I just meant for these drag time comparisons, that was all.
 
I took a completely stock Ford Focus ST (only using the tranny fix) to Streets of Willow for a few laps

All factory stock with factory tires, not power limiting or performance parts, all stock suspension. No assist

Lap time 1:29.757 highest G pulled 1.46g

Real Life Car

Lap Time 1:29.680 Highest G pulled 1.45g

mine.png


Its pretty sweet we can get info out of Motec i2 for GT6 like this & that we can directly compare to real world data. Strikingly close virtual to real, I understand the issues people have with top speeds but this data should speak for itself.
 
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ProjectWHaT
Can you guys post a tutorial on how to use this? I have the replay file but I don't know what to do next.
Click to expand...

Open i2 then click on Circuit or Drag, at the top left click on "File" then click on "open log file" then select the USB drive you have the replay file formatted for i2 saved on, then click "open".

Cheers
 
Jimmy Howlett
Open i2 then click on Circuit or Drag, at the top left click on "File" then click on "open log file" then select the USB drive you have the replay file formatted for i2 saved on, then click "open".

Cheers
Click to expand...
Ummm....how do I have the file formatted for i2? :lol:
 
ProjectWHaT
Ummm....how do I have the file formatted for i2? :lol:
Click to expand...
When you were in GT6, you went into your Gallery and selected a replay file and chose "Export as Motec data", correct? That should have placed 2 files on your USB stick. When you are in the i2 software, you select Open Log File, and navigate to your USB drive and it should show the LOG file. You can't just use an old replay file from 2 weeks ago. You have to specifically export AS motec data file.
 
ALB123
When you were in GT6, you went into your Gallery and selected a replay file and chose "Export as Motec data", correct? That should have placed 2 files on your USB stick. When you are in the i2 software, you select Open Log File, and navigate to your USB drive and it should show the LOG file. You can't just use an old replay file from 2 weeks ago. You have to specifically export AS motec data file.
Click to expand...
Hmmm, I don't remember seeing an option saying "as Motec data".
 

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