Fanatec Announcements: CSW V2 Reviews Out

  • Thread starter Crispy
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Carson79
Yeah could you imagine taking the rim apart, then screwing up some how and not being able to use it at all.
I'm sure there are plenty that could do it, :ouch: just not me.
It'd be cheaper to wait and buy a Fanatec rim, if there ever is another one :boggled:
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Yeah that would be bad if you got everything apart and broke something or couldn't get it to work. I guess that's kinda the gamble. Ive been working on and racing cars and motorcycles for nearly 15 years so Im pretty good with my hands and mechanically inclined so Ive had to fabricate stuff plenty of times before so I think I could do it. I was looking at my formula rim and see how it could be done, but in the end its like you said, it will be way cheaper to get one from fanatec if they every come out with another rim.

After buying a used formula rim for around $130ish or I would assume. I've never looked for one and I would want a new round rim so that would be around $300ish so by the time you get everything your looking at around the price of the csw base just for the rim then you have to build it. If you have the stuff laying around already like a another rim and stuff I guess it wouldn't be quite as bad but I'm not trying to chop up the formula rim I have now. I want something different than the BMW rim. I do like it and all, but I would like having a lighter round rim.
 
ultimate
what do you mean by losing FFB? i think i have FFB issue, my current settings are SEN 330, ABS and SHO enabled, rest OFF
no FFB at all
on PS3 i must enable SPR in order to feel FFB
on PC, enabling FOR in order to feel FFB

what do you think guys, is it normal?
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To me this sounds like the ol' crappy wiring job causing over heating issue present in a batch or two of the non csw/csr-e wheels. This causes symptoms like those you describe. Have you taken your kit apart at all?
 
since couple weeks, FFB suddenly felt weird:
- biggest issue its on PS3, just impossible to turn on the right of wheel which according to the Fanatec profile, seems to be locked at 70 degrees (usually 200 degrees, i let F1 rim at default rotation angle)
wheel seems to be very strong around the center (SPR disabled on PC games)
- under F1 2013 PS3, i have these following settings: 70 FFB in game, 100 FFB from wheel settings, rest of settings OFF, except SPR at 70-100
first issue that i described above
no matter if i lowered FFB in game settings, but the opposite works, i lowered FFB from wheel settings (on 50-60) and magically, that right turn issue disappeared but FFB felt much lighter, i felt like there was no FFB at all

and yes my CSW came from one of these first batches, i missed first batch like everyone lol and received for october/november i guess
 
ultimate
since couple weeks, FFB suddenly felt weird:
- biggest issue its on PS3, just impossible to turn on the right of wheel which according to the Fanatec profile, seems to be locked at 70 degrees (usually 200 degrees, i let F1 rim at default rotation angle)
wheel seems to be very strong around the center (SPR disabled on PC games)
- under F1 2013 PS3, i have these following settings: 70 FFB in game, 100 FFB from wheel settings, rest of settings OFF, except SPR at 70-100
first issue that i described above
no matter if i lowered FFB in game settings, but the opposite works, i lowered FFB from wheel settings (on 50-60) and magically, that right turn issue disappeared but FFB felt much lighter, i felt like there was no FFB at all

and yes my CSW came from one of these first batches, i missed first batch like everyone lol and received for october/november i guess
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Are you running it in ps3 mode or pc mode?
 
Just making sure my man... My wheel acts like it's possessed in iracing if I put it in ps3 mode. No I don't know why I tried to play iracing in ps3 mode... But I did. :-)
When it becomes possessed it gets really really hot and the fans go berserk.
Hmm. It's not a good sign that yours is a csw AND having this cut out issue. I sold my csr-e a while back and am now working with a DIY bespoke buehler csr thingamajig. So I'm afraid anything I'd have to offer would simply be speculation. I shall re-read all of your posts tho to see if I have anything else to offer.

Ps. I started my DIY csr when I had an issue with some of the solider joints on the far end of this csr (which was my backup wheel at the time). They'd overheat and cause all kinda of issues including cutting out during somewhat rigorous play.
I have heard a good test for this is to give the wheel some slight resistance during its startup calibration. If it starts chattering or shuts down, you have an issue.
That said, I never had the issue with my csr-e (and I beat that thing to death), so your mileage may vary.
 
Hey can anyone help me? I was wondering how you move the bar for the brake up a peg on the Clubsport V1 pedals. I tried pushing it out with a screw driver but it wouldn't move at all...
 
Crispy
No I did not... :lol: Where are these screws located? (Been a while sense I've adjusted my pedals...)
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It looks like you've never taken your pedals apart. If you can't move a pin, then clearly this set screw is screwed into this pin. Picture taken from google, which has accelerator and clutch pedal set screw shown in red circle.
pedals-gb.jpg
 
@bumer Thanks! It's been almost two years since I've opened them up. Plus they're inverted now so that part is upside down. :lol:
 
How long does it take for fanatec to respond? My pedals took a dump on me after only six months. Everything works fine but the brake. Contacted them 5 days ago and nothing yet. This is my second set of pedals and im not very pleased about it. They're great when they work tough.

Csr elite pedals by the way. Any suggestions.
 
@JerseyDriverSS Every time I've contacted they got back to be within the week. Wait a few more days and if nothing then contact them again.

I just adjusted the brakes. They feel absolutely superb now! I know a lot of people don't like the adjusted brake, but to me it feels perfect! In fact it has about the same travel as my actual cars brakes, just a little less firm.
 
Crispy
@JerseyDriverSS Every time I've contacted they got back to be within the week. Wait a few more days and if nothing then contact them again.

I just adjusted the brakes. They feel absolutely superb now! I know a lot of people don't like the adjusted brake, but to me it feels perfect! In fact it has about the same travel as my actual cars brakes, just a little less firm.
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Slap a mugen shock on there with a proper spring and it'll feel Golden. ;)
 
Crispy
I just adjusted the brakes. They feel absolutely superb now! I know a lot of people don't like the adjusted brake, but to me it feels perfect! In fact it has about the same travel as my actual cars brakes, just a little less firm.
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It must have been pretty good before too that it took you many years to try a different setting. Maybe I should also give it a try.
 
Do anyone here have experience with both Fanatec shifter in SQ mode and DSD long throw SQ shifter? I want a shifter but I think the TM shifter won´t be as good as the other alternatives.
 
Bought a TM shifter and it might look good but feel wise scores a zero. There is no realistic mechanical feel when shifting in sequential mode.

I am now thinking of getting either the DSD or SQ.
 
I would also note that the CSS is most likely going to be the most durable product Fanatec makes given it's few electronics and simplicity.
 
Does anyone know how to get the CCS to work on WRC4 on the PC?!? I'm tearing my hair out!!!

I have a CSW, V2 pedals and the CSS, but can only see options for 'Up' and 'Down' in the control mapping section.

Others have reported it works, so I can't work out what I'm doing wrong. Any ideas, guys?


Thanks in advance,

Snotty
 
Great looking new rim for the CSW, but it's a bit too pricy for my taste



The new CLASSIC Wheel Rim for your ClubSport Wheel

We proudly present the NEW RIM for your ClubSport Wheel.

The CLASSIC rim features fine brown leather and polished aluminum and is the most stylish way to steer any classic car. No buttons disturb the nostalgic look so it is a perfect addition to your ClubSport Shifter. Of course it also features a metal quick release system like the other wheel rims.

The diameter is 35 cm and it looks and feels just like a real steering wheel. The metal hub cover made of polished aluminum gives a nice and elegant touch to it.

It sells for 349,95 USD (excl. tax) or 349,95 Euro (incl. VAT) and will be available for sale this summer.

We put a lot of effort into it and I hope you like it. What do you think?
f428d5143be964bce9cc48aed17746.png






 
Very nice rim, but indeed too expensive. Did cows (leather) become that expensive in the last couple of years? Cause I reckon its not the electronics price, as this wheel lacks the button galore.

(For leather cost reference: a whole new rear seat cover for a Momo leather interieur in an Alfa Romeo 156 costs 700 euro)


Edit:

For real motorsport steering wheel price reference I always go here...

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/steering-wheels
 
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LogiForce
Very nice rim, but indeed too expensive. Did cows (leather) become that expensive in the last couple of years? Cause I reckon its not the electronics price, as this wheel lacks the button galore.
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It seems quite expensive, but also doesn't. If you take your general Sparco, it is around 200. Fanatecs is a bit bigger, has leather, electronics and also quick release. Only they know whether they earn more profit than from other rims or is it about the same or even less.

fatkrakr
Less is more I guess.
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Isn't that how it is today? Look at all those racing versions of the sports cars. They strip out all the comfort things to make it lighter. So you get less of a car for more money.;)
 
museumsteve
I cant imagine it's going to be massively popular
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Probably not, but at least noone can't complain that there is no choice. Many wanted classic style, they will probably be happy. Of course you can't please everyone. I wonder whether persons who buy this rim need to replace their motors more often now. As its diameter is bigger, applying the same force, you generally put more stress on the motors as your applied countertorque is greater.
 
Carson79
Nice find Henk, but your right far too expensive
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Thanks Mark, :)

It's not only too expensive, but in my opinion also too big. I would have bought the wheel rim if it was smaller (like the size of the CSR Elite rim) and less than 200 euro.

One other thing that keeps bothering me is that in 6 months my CSW will be out of warranty and replacing motors after that will be a very costly hobby. Ekretz solution (2 buhlers with airpump) is not something i would buy.
So my issue is also that i don't want to invest another 350 euro, without knowing that the motors in my CSW base will last.

I predict: This wheel rim will sell for much less on black friday :lol:
 

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