Fanatec Announcements: CSW V2 Reviews Out

  • Thread starter Crispy
  • 13,388 comments
  • 1,272,084 views
I never did, but if it gets worse, I'll send an email to them about it. If it were to stop working, I do have my T500RS as back-up, and since it's only a few weeks old, my warrenty is of course still intact.
 
I know It would be that simple if I'd want it to mount on my side, like in regular car, but that's not the case. It just can't be mounted only to a shifter or shifter holder because I don't see it being sturdy enough and that is the main reason why I don't see that this very simple solution would work perfectly. If even using those plastic shifters makes shifter holder come loose very often, then HB would make it come loose even quicker due to a greater leverage. Bad thing is that shifter holder needs to be easily removable due to shifter type used - not very good to use H-shifter up high next to wheel where you'd usually use your sequential shifter. So, can't use thread lock to better secure those bolts. So it is all about sturdiness, not me just saying that it is impossible to do easily or cheaply. Of course you can.
Seriously man, it takes bugger all effort or money to do whatever you want, properly. For my cockpit, I bought some steel, some MDF, an old car seat from a Holden complete with rails so I can adjust it (they were about to throw them out so I got it for like 10 bucks) and even some finishing details like aluminium strip and paint, and I think I built the whole thing for less than $80 bucks, and it's solid as a rock. Has little rubber feet and everything so it doesn't mark the floor.

I had all the tools I needed of course, but in my opinion every man needs a set of tools so you are best to get some anyway lol. You can get cheap drills these days, not that I have a cheap drill as I use tools for a living so I buy quality ones, but for a home occasional use drill there isn't much point in spending a lot of money.

Just get imaginative.
 
I had all the tools I needed of course, but in my opinion every man needs a set of tools so you are best to get some anyway lol. You can get cheap drills these days, not that I have a cheap drill as I use tools for a living so I buy quality ones, but for a home occasional use drill there isn't much point in spending a lot of money.

I don't know about you, but I don't know anyone who doesn't have drills and other basic tools in the family. I was talking about more serious pieces of equipment like lathes, milling machines and so on. I'm more into building stuff and such and there are so many things I want to do, but things mostly are only in idea level or as 3D CAD models in these days because there are no opportunities to make them in real life and therefore usually have to buy whatever is ready-made.
 
I don't have a lathe, there are ways to accomplish things at the garage level my friend. We're not insulting you, just saying that I don't think you're giving yourself enough credit. Trial and error is how you learn. I've made a hundred junk piles just to get some of the results I want.
 
I don't have a lathe, there are ways to accomplish things at the garage level my friend. We're not insulting you, just saying that I don't think you're giving yourself enough credit. Trial and error is how you learn. I've made a hundred junk piles just to get some of the results I want.
It is pretty useless arguing. I could even mount it using things in my room currently, but it wouldn't be exactly the way I'd like it to be and if it isn't the way I like, I'll better not use at all. Done without so far.
 
Armed with an angle grinder and a drill it's amazing the stuff you can do. If you have a welder the possibilities are endless lol. I love metal work.
 
Not arguing buddy, just trying to help you out. :D

Trust me, I'm as anal as anybody here when it comes to my projects and their aesthetics.
 
That's what I'd love too, but unfortunately there's no such job involving that anywhere near where I live.
Oh, I don't do it for a job either, I just enjoy it when I make stuff at home for myself. I occasionally fabricate things at work for mounting panels or cable trays etc but nothing cool..
 
Is it just the Australian store where they have stopped doing the Clubsport bundle? I went there today as I'm looking to purchase the CSW soon and I noticed that it's no longer discounted if you buy the formula rim, pedals and base together. That's a shame..
 
Is it just the Australian store where they have stopped doing the Clubsport bundle?

You can check other stores yourself too.
To make your life easier, I don't see any bundles in any store that includes CSW at the moment.
Maybe they are waiting for things to be in stock again. There's still about two months wait till CSW should be in stock. By that time, maybe clubsport pedals or formula rim is out of stock. Not a good idea to offer a bundle that customer has to wait for from two months to who knows how long.
 
Last edited:
No CSWs to deliver to customers = No CSWs until the end of September.

The Japan site says they have CSWs, but no bundles are actually available.
 
Ah ok, cheers. Yeah I see that they have none in stock. Going to buy a replacement shock absorber now for the brake while I wait from suggestions I've seen that the factory one is rubbish and I've already bought some carbon fibre vinyl - I'm going to wrap the MDF that my G25 wheel and pedals are bolted to now with it for 3 reasons - to cover up the holes left from my G25 and shifter, to improve the looks, plus, I found that when I painted the wood, when I installed the wheel on it it, it would make a cracking sound from the paint sticking to the wheel base. Vinyl won't do this.
 
Just bought a Fanatec Round1 rim today, and got it.

Truly disappointed, but that's because I didn't know what "genuine leather" actually meant. It's basically a term used by the industry to mislead the consumer into thinking something is leather.

Well, the Round1 rim seems to be made of 'Bonded Leather' which is a leather shraps shredded and bonded with a polyurethane (PU) or plastic. So plastic fantastic.

I would personally advice that if you have a G25/G27 to just remove the steering wheel and put it on the UH instead. While it is less sturdy (more flex), the leather wrap is better and feels much nicer.


Here some info on Wikipedia to inform/warn anyone who is bound to make a 'Genuine Leather' purchase.

Link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leather
The following are not "true" organic leathers, but are materials that contain leather fiber. Depending on jurisdiction, they may still be labeled as "Genuine Leather", even though the consumer generally can only see the outer layer of the material and can't actually see any of the leather content:

  • Bonded leather or "Reconstituted leather" is an economical type that uses leftovers of organic leather (often from leather tanneries or leather workshops) which are shredded and then bonded together with polyurethane binders or latex on top of a fiber sheet. The varying degree of organic leather in the mix (between 10% and 90%) affects the smell and the texture of such product. Due to its reduced cost it is becoming a popular choice for furniture upholstery, especially for commercial use, where durability is needed; however durability can vary widely, depending on the formulation.
  • Bycast leather is a split leather with a layer of polyurethane laminated to the surface and then embossed. Bycast was originally made for the shoe industry and later adopted by the furniture industry. The original formula created by Bayer was strong but expensive. The result is a material that is slightly stiffer but cheaper than top-grain leather but has a much more consistent texture. Because its surface is completely covered in plastic, is easier to clean and maintain, but is not easily repaired.


So yeah, I feel screwed over on this one by the industry. Even though they are in their right and are allowed to call it genuine leather. :(
 
LogiForce, thanks for the info. I've liked the leather on the G series wheels, but the rims themselves always felt like they were a bit hollow and plastic inside. What does the Round1 rim feel like as far as you can tell? Any ideas how the rim portion is constructed inside the wrap? Is it nice and light at least?

Out of the rims I've personally tried my favorite is the one on the GT2. It's shaped right, it's the right thickness, the wrap feels nice, and the rim underneath feels meaty and has bit of give, getting close to the feel of a premium passenger car wheel. That said, it's heavy and for some wheels in this price range I think light weight is pretty critical.
 
I have 2 friends who purchased "bonded leather" furniture, falling for the genuine leather bit. Neither of them made a year before the surface started peeling off leaving a cloth backing exposed. There is know way it is going to hold up to steering wheel use.
 
LogiForce, thanks for the info. I've liked the leather on the G series wheels, but the rims themselves always felt like they were a bit hollow and plastic inside. What does the Round1 rim feel like as far as you can tell? Any ideas how the rim portion is constructed inside the wrap? Is it nice and light at least?

Out of the rims I've personally tried my favorite is the one on the GT2. It's shaped right, it's the right thickness, the wrap feels nice, and the rim underneath feels meaty and has bit of give, getting close to the feel of a premium passenger car wheel. That said, it's heavy and for some wheels in this price range I think light weight is pretty critical.

The rim feels solid. Brushed aluminium center plate with what feels like a aluminium tubing around.
It is pretty light though, but the G25 rim is clearly lighter (it having plastic tubing and all).

Personally I would want the tumb rests to be a bit lower though, if I had to buy again. It being high up makes it hard to control. In that sense that you will have a hard time keeping the wheel still.
On the other hand that fact also means that it is a very sensitive wheel. You will clearly feel the forces come through.
The thickness is really nice though. Maybe I would have liked it to be slighly more oval/egg shaped, so that it would feel slightly nicer than it is now. But that is nitpicking.

Just so everyone knows. The genuine leather is not stitched but glued. Which might not be ideal for you guys racing in desert type temperatures.
 
The thickness is really nice though. Maybe I would have liked it to be slighly more oval/egg shaped, so that it would feel slightly nicer than it is now. But that is nitpicking.

It may be nitpicking, but I'm glad you mentioned it. Now, I've never driven a dedicated race car, so I don't know if the wheel rims have more of a circular cross-section rather than oval like in street cars. But I do think perfectly round rims feel a little weird. It's one reason why I like the rim on the Fanatec GT2 and why the Turbo S and CSR/CSR-Elite didn't feel as nice to me.
 
Thanks for the heads up LogiForce.

Just adds more incentive for me to continue my search for a (affordable) genuine classic Formula 1 wheel.
 
It may be nitpicking, but I'm glad you mentioned it. Now, I've never driven a dedicated race car, so I don't know if the wheel rims have more of a circular cross-section rather than oval like in street cars. But I do think perfectly round rims feel a little weird. It's one reason why I like the rim on the Fanatec GT2 and why the Turbo S and CSR/CSR-Elite didn't feel as nice to me.

It is already oval shaped, the Round1.
I just would have like it a bit... fatter maybe? My fingers are now resting on the back side of the spoke instead of having my full hands wrapped around the rim firmly.
Just so everyone knows, I have small hands. I have Sparco UK size 9 gloves, so that might give you guys an indication.

The rim has a circumference of 97mm. A width of 26mm and a depth of 35mm.
So with that you can draw it out on a piece of paper or something. But clearly an oval shape. ;)
 
The leather on our wheel rims is made of real leather. Cow. Muuuuuhhhh.

No plastic.

And the shape of this rim is made in reference to the F1 rims as used in the 80's. It is an exact replica. But shape and ergonomy is always a matter of taste anyway.
 
Last edited:
Haha thats Mooooooooooo Thomas :P

And if you don't like the rims just don't buy them. I think Fanatec has done an excellent job trying to cater to everyone and the UH is the cherry on top. Too much nitpicking. Our hobby is growing and its leaps and bounds from where it was just 5 years ago. Lets take a deep breath shall we? LOL
 
The leather on our wheel rims is made of real leather. Cow. Muuuuuhhhh.

No plastic.

And the shape of this rim is made in reference to the F1 rims as used in the 80's. It is an exact replica. But shape and ergonomy is always a matter of taste anyway.
Bonded leather is real leather, its just very small pieces glued (bonded) to a piece of cloth. It looks, smells and almost feels like 100% Genuine Leather, but its a bit softer and not durable at all. It is used in some cars, but its used in "low touch areas such as dashboard, parts of the door skins, and headliners. You will never find it on the steering wheel, armrests or other "high touch areas.

So what I would like to know is if bonded leather is on the rims or 100% genuine leather. For me anyways it makes a big difference. I will be purchasing the hub soon and need to figure out what rim to purchase.
 
Now you confuse me. Genuine leather is not real leather. You are saying that genuine leather is as durable as real leather or are you referring to real leather when you say genuine leather :P Or just that bonded leather is less durable then genuine and real leather :P
 
Bonded leather is tiny bits of leather scrap that gets glued to cloth. 100% genuine leather his the cows actual hide. From a durability stand point there is no comparison. Google it. Im sure you will find a million stories of the stuff peeling off the cloth.
 
Back