Model Car 1/24 Plastic Kits

Discussion in 'The Rumble Strip' started by eddieturner2002, Mar 18, 2004.

  1. ParkourVeyron

    United States Virginia
    PSN:ParkourVeyron

    That's cool. Great job.

    I still haven't ordered the rest of my paints yet. Just procrastinating ol' me. :grumpy:
  2. Encyclopedia

    Premium
    Sweden Gothenburg
    PSN:Agremont

    All Tamiya, except for the Z which is an old Monogram.
  3. Robin.

    Premium
    United Kingdom United Kingdom

    I've got a question about priming plastic models. Is it really nessary to sand down the primer after you have applied it or is it OK to go on a spray the colour coat? Because I sprayed primer and it looks pretty smooth to me.
  4. Apok

    Premium
    Slovenia Slovenia
    PSN:csiApok

    I find it depends on the type of primer. I now have a very fine primer that I don't sand. Before that I had a primer that was much rougher and I had to sand that. So I think it's fine to spray without sanding.
  5. dhandeh

    Premium
    England England
    PSN:dhandes

    Also, make sure you rinse the plastic with warm soapy water. As there may be some chemicals left over from the manufacturing process left on the plastic.

    I've finished my Mclaren MP4/13 model, will get some photo's up soon.
  6. nitrorocks

    United States Phoenix, AZ
    PSN:nitrorocks

    Yes post your Mclaren. I'm looking forward to it :tup:
  7. dhandeh

    Premium
    England England
    PSN:dhandes

    Ask and you may receive.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    It is 95% complete, it just needs a touch up in the front/rear wing area and a few other places, but nothing major. I have applied the lacquer coat and need to wait a week or two before giving it a polish. Also I will be removing the wheels, to 'roughen to' the tyres to give them a used look. The rear light needs attaching, but I'm generally pleased with how it turned out, its a bit average in places, but I'm still learning. I've picked up lots of tips ready for the next one, that will be a Mclaren M23.
  8. nitrorocks

    United States Phoenix, AZ
    PSN:nitrorocks

    Nice! What company is that? And the M23 will be cool.
  9. dhandeh

    Premium
    England England
    PSN:dhandes

    It's a Tamiya, same as the M23.
  10. nitrorocks

    United States Phoenix, AZ
    PSN:nitrorocks

    I want to build an M23. Where can you get it? I haven't seen one but I'm assuming eBay.
  11. dhandeh

    Premium
    England England
    PSN:dhandes

    EBay was where I got the M23.
  12. nitrorocks

    United States Phoenix, AZ
    PSN:nitrorocks

    Okay thanks.
  13. Robin.

    Premium
    United Kingdom United Kingdom

    Thanks for the replies about the primer sanding but I've just come across another problem...

    I've got a slight orange peel finish on one of my other projects. Its never happened to me before, maybe its been too warm but I don't know what to do about it.

    I've heard you have to wet sand it down with fine paper but how would you work around the small details on a plastic model (its not a flat surface) without destroying the whole thing?
  14. Shaun

    Premium
    Australia Vic, Australia
    PSN:gundalini

    After looking at all my unstarted kits in my cupboard I remembered this thread.
    Some nice work going on here guys. :tup:

    dhandles: Nice Mclaren mate.
    Not sure If mine is the exact same model but it was the model that got me back into the hobby after a very long break going back to my childhood.
    One thing I do remember though was how much a PITA the red decal on the nosecone was. So much so that I ended up leaving the bloody thing off as you can see here. :dopey:

    [​IMG]

    Sorry about the photo quality but I thought I had some better ones.

    Not sure if you have roughend up tyres before but my normal method is to put the tyre on a holesaw, 16mm from memory for Tamiya 1/20th kits (no wheel obviously), holesaw in drill, turn on drill and hold whatever grit sandpaper you want against the tyre. It works really well.

    Have you heard of a product called "bare metal foil"?
    If not, its a micro thin foil with an adhesive on one side that comes in many colours to replicate different metals. It's tricky to get a handle on using but once you do it's a fantastic product. You rub it on and carefully trim away the parts you don't want with a scalpel.
    Works really well for the heatshields on the floorpans of F1 cars.
    It can be seen in this pic of a Bennetton engine bay that I haven't wired or plumbed yet.

    [​IMG]

    Robin: How bad is the orange peel mate?
    To be honest the only way I know to get rid of it is to do alot of sanding until you are down to a smooth coat and start again.
    Maybe someone else here has a different method?

    Cheers Shaun.
  15. Slick Rick

    United Kingdom London

    Your Benetton looks awesome! Good work with the Mclaren dhandes
  16. dhandeh

    Premium
    England England
    PSN:dhandes

    The red nose decals lifted off on mine for some reason. I had it all lined up neatly, came back 2 minutes later and he had curled up. I have never had a decal do that before. I managed to salvage it with some microsol and touching up paint.
  17. Shaun

    Premium
    Australia Vic, Australia
    PSN:gundalini

    Oh I forgot to ask before dhandles, did the tobacco decals come with the kit?
    The Mclaren I got didn't have them I had to use the ones that the team used in countries where tobacco advertising was banned back then. Shame really because the West ones on your kit look so much better.

    I built this kit a bit after the Mclaren and I actually ordered the decals from a company in Japan called Studio 27, they make all sorts of detail kits. The non tobacco liveried Fezzas of that era look pretty average IMO.

    [​IMG]

    Cheers Shaun.
  18. dhandeh

    Premium
    England England
    PSN:dhandes

    Who is dhandles?:sly:

    I bought 8 Tamiya Mclaren models on eBay and they all came with the extra tobacco decals (the seller had bought them separate), along with the standard ones. It helps to give them the right look, as you say, without them they don't look right.
  19. Camaroyenko

    United States Indiana
    PSN:camaroyenko

    Here's one I just finished :sly:


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Note the hood pins cables I made in the last one xD
    [​IMG]



    And here's another I'm working on!
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
  20. nitrorocks

    United States Phoenix, AZ
    PSN:nitrorocks

    The benetton looks like it was made in the factory! Nice job!
  21. Shaun

    Premium
    Australia Vic, Australia
    PSN:gundalini

    Oops. :dopey:
    I could say that's my pet name for you but that would be very creepy. :sly:

    Nice pick up mate. :tup:
    Keep us posted with the progress.

    Thanks guys. :tup:
    The paint work involved a lot of masking and prep for the 3 colour scheme.

    Cheers Shaun.
  22. Slick Rick

    United Kingdom London

    Looks great, the body paint turned out really good and the engine looks mean! Id try and add chrome details like to the coachline and window frames.....
  23. Sly Guy

    Premium
    PSN:slybugga

    The New MR2 GT kit in the bottom left came with the T-Bar/Turbo body, I guess the guy I bought it from switched it. The MR2's now only come in Hardtop N/A like the one in the bottom right.

    [​IMG]
  24. NISM0_SKYLINE

    United States Pinckney, MI
    PSN:NISMO_S13

    Picked up two new sets.

    [​IMG]

    Only to add them to the list of cars we already have.

    [​IMG]
  25. KookiDowg

    Premium
    United States CA
    PSN:GTP_KookiDowg

    I have recently given up sim racing for model Car and Gundam collecting. I've just ordered the Tamiya Basic tool set and Testors cement glue and I hope that these will come in really handy like what people have been saying. Also I've ordered my first car model kit, Mazda Eunos Roadster, which was simply just $16 on fleabay. I wanted to get a cheap kit for my first one to work with instead of wasting my money on an expensive one and learn my mistakes through the miata.

    Also I have a question that I am really concerned when it comes to painting the engine parts and the interior. Which is better to use water-based acrylic paint or non-water acrylic paint?
  26. dhandeh

    Premium
    England England
    PSN:dhandes

    Water based is easier to clean up! Provided your prime your model before painting, just go with what you can get. There is not much too chose between the two, if you're just starting off.
  27. Venom800tt

    United States Louisiana
    PSN:Mr_Nukes

    lol how do you give up sim racing for model cars and Gundams? <__<
    I always figured one could do both, like me :sly:
    Although, I can partially blame buying model cars and stuff for me not getting a PS360 compatible wheel to enjoy GT5 and FM4 to the fullest...

    And now I am thinking about giving model car kits another try. I really need to practice my spray painting so I can fix a few paint damaged 1/18 diecast models...
  28. KookiDowg

    Premium
    United States CA
    PSN:GTP_KookiDowg

    Is this the same Venom from the Cost Over forums? :dopey:

    I guess its just the lack of clean rooms online in GT5 and I cant keep my pants up for rFactor 2 any longer. :grumpy:
    But most likely once that comes up, I'll get back to sim racing, its just that I am losing interest of spending my money for sim racing related stuff. :scared:

    Oh okay thanks for the quick info. :)
  29. Venom800tt

    United States Louisiana
    PSN:Mr_Nukes

    Possibly :sly:
  30. KookiDowg

    Premium
    United States CA
    PSN:GTP_KookiDowg

    Haha sweet.

    Oh and if you really do get back into the 1/24 scale building again. Show dem skills. All these procedures will be my first time once I get the necessary tools for the models and will need to know the right and wrongs about all this... especially painting.
Next Page »