whats your drift weapon?
- Thread starter barfNZ
- 25 comments
- 8,511 views
- 924
- Engine Block
im a biginner
so i use the 350z
with less wight and more power and n1 only ( i cant tune )
so i use the 350z
with less wight and more power and n1 only ( i cant tune )
- 924
- Engine Block
- 8
- LR-SWD-Oversteer
I like drifting most of the FR cars, but I found that both TVR's with stiff suspension setup's work great, very controllable. I recomend trying this or a similar tune on either the tuscan or tamora.
power- max, depending on the situation (PP).
weight- min, again, depending on the situation (PP).
tyres- N3 front, N3 rear.
aerodynamics- 0 front, 0 rear.
ride height- fully lower the car, front and rear.
springs- 10 front, 10 rear.
dampers- 8 to 10 front, 8 to 10 rear.
toe angles- I use negative toe on the front (tires facing outward) and positive toe on the rear (tires facing inward). For the value's, I never go higher than 15 front and 25 rear, im sure these values already seem high but the negative toe in the front helps steering response and turning angle on the front wheel that supports most of the weight during a drift, The positive toe in the rear seems to help keep the rear end stable when the throttle is applied heavily during a drift (outer rear wheel that supports most weight during a drift is turned inward to prevent more drift angle under acceleration).
camber angle- 3.5 to 5.0 front, 5.0 rear to improve stability and traction.
brake balance- 5 front, 5 rear.
max turning angle- 50
traction control- off
ABS- off
My gears vary for certain turns and tracks but for the most part I try to keep them close together, obviously a bit smaller in weak cars for acceleration.
Curious to hear some feedback about my TVR setup, its somewhat universal depending on power and track but hopefully it will get you nice and sideways
power- max, depending on the situation (PP).
weight- min, again, depending on the situation (PP).
tyres- N3 front, N3 rear.
aerodynamics- 0 front, 0 rear.
ride height- fully lower the car, front and rear.
springs- 10 front, 10 rear.
dampers- 8 to 10 front, 8 to 10 rear.
toe angles- I use negative toe on the front (tires facing outward) and positive toe on the rear (tires facing inward). For the value's, I never go higher than 15 front and 25 rear, im sure these values already seem high but the negative toe in the front helps steering response and turning angle on the front wheel that supports most of the weight during a drift, The positive toe in the rear seems to help keep the rear end stable when the throttle is applied heavily during a drift (outer rear wheel that supports most weight during a drift is turned inward to prevent more drift angle under acceleration).
camber angle- 3.5 to 5.0 front, 5.0 rear to improve stability and traction.
brake balance- 5 front, 5 rear.
max turning angle- 50
traction control- off
ABS- off
My gears vary for certain turns and tracks but for the most part I try to keep them close together, obviously a bit smaller in weak cars for acceleration.
Curious to hear some feedback about my TVR setup, its somewhat universal depending on power and track but hopefully it will get you nice and sideways
- 26
- L2D_j-kirb_ & jay-KIRB
I have been having fun with the tuned cappacino on eiger track.
Tires n1 all the way around
Lowered all the way
Front springs and damper on 5
Rear springs and damper on 10
Camber front 3
Camber rear 2
Front a little possitive toe in (dives into the corners)
Rear full positive toe in (hold drifts nice)
Front brakes 5
Rear brakes 10
Abs 2
I lowered my gears to top out at like 140.....I mostly drift in 2nd and 3rd.
I have driving force gt wheel. Feedback on 7..no powersteering.
I know my set up is extreme but its working great for me and it weight tranfers slowly and predictable.
Add JAY-KIRB if you want to tandem drift. I want to get with or start a crew for drifting
Tires n1 all the way around
Lowered all the way
Front springs and damper on 5
Rear springs and damper on 10
Camber front 3
Camber rear 2
Front a little possitive toe in (dives into the corners)
Rear full positive toe in (hold drifts nice)
Front brakes 5
Rear brakes 10
Abs 2
I lowered my gears to top out at like 140.....I mostly drift in 2nd and 3rd.
I have driving force gt wheel. Feedback on 7..no powersteering.
I know my set up is extreme but its working great for me and it weight tranfers slowly and predictable.
Add JAY-KIRB if you want to tandem drift. I want to get with or start a crew for drifting
- 222
- TunerFocus / GTP_TunerFocus
Hmm...wait for it...Aston Martin DB9. Yep, it's a fat cow in the drift world but I can drift Fuji in it's entirety with that car. I don't have even the slightest clue why this car clicked with me, but I love it.
I drive it with the stock weight, N2's, & however much extra hp to = 550PP. I set it to the max angle for steering & every thing else is the factory settings.
I drive it with the stock weight, N2's, & however much extra hp to = 550PP. I set it to the max angle for steering & every thing else is the factory settings.
- 413
- SLAPHAPPYFRANKY
- BLKJ SlapHappy
Right now I drive the C6 Vette for the 550 Suzuka Event.
-13 power with stock weight on N3 tires.
-13 power with stock weight on N3 tires.
- 939
- Netherlands
- snorretik
I like drifting most when actually having the feeling that I'm actually controlling the car.
It's really rewarding and much much more fun in my opinion.
I mean, it might be easier on N2 or N1's. But you're drifting because you think it's fun right?
Otherwise you could as well just take R3's and just race.
I'd use N3's if I were you lol.
Blitz Skyline R34, N3's.
Basically all that matters is:
- lower it. ( I always do max)
- stiffening it (I always use it pretty stiff like 9, 7 or something for this pretty powerfull car)
- dampers, I always put them to 5/5 or something. I always try to go along with the spring. High damper settings for high spring rates.
- toe should be negative in the front, and positive in the back. It sets the front to this /---\ (looking from above onto the car) kind of set up. Meaning if you turn in to the right, the left wheel gets all the weight, and will cause your car to steer in more easily.
And the back should be opposite \---/, meaning if you steer to the right, your backside left wheel will pull you out more easily. Though it will be a bit twitchy when shifting weight from a right hand corner to the left. It will be too much if set too extreme.
- chamber controlls the way the wheels are set if you look at them from the front.
If the wheels are bent inwards like /---\ then you've got a lot of chamber. If you've got 0 chamber it will be |---| straight.
It should be more in the frond than in the rear, though this is for front engined cars only. For other types of cars it could be a little different.
It's really rewarding and much much more fun in my opinion.
I mean, it might be easier on N2 or N1's. But you're drifting because you think it's fun right?
Otherwise you could as well just take R3's and just race.
I'd use N3's if I were you lol.
Blitz Skyline R34, N3's.
Basically all that matters is:
- lower it. ( I always do max)
- stiffening it (I always use it pretty stiff like 9, 7 or something for this pretty powerfull car)
- dampers, I always put them to 5/5 or something. I always try to go along with the spring. High damper settings for high spring rates.
- toe should be negative in the front, and positive in the back. It sets the front to this /---\ (looking from above onto the car) kind of set up. Meaning if you turn in to the right, the left wheel gets all the weight, and will cause your car to steer in more easily.
And the back should be opposite \---/, meaning if you steer to the right, your backside left wheel will pull you out more easily. Though it will be a bit twitchy when shifting weight from a right hand corner to the left. It will be too much if set too extreme.
- chamber controlls the way the wheels are set if you look at them from the front.
If the wheels are bent inwards like /---\ then you've got a lot of chamber. If you've got 0 chamber it will be |---| straight.
It should be more in the frond than in the rear, though this is for front engined cars only. For other types of cars it could be a little different.
- 26
- L2D_j-kirb_ & jay-KIRB
I dont want to sound like a jerk , but I'm pretty sure you have that exactly backwards. Positive number is toe-in /--\. Negative is toe out \---/. Everything else makes perfect since.👍
, but I'm pretty sure you have that exactly backwards. Positive number is toe-in /--\. Negative is toe out \---/. Everything else makes perfect since.👍
- 56
- barfNZ
I dont want to sound like a jerk
thanks! i stand corrected
- 315
- North Korea
- SaveMGO
I use a Blitz Skyline R34.
It is just plain COOL!
It is just plain COOL!
- 3,132
- GTP_GTPrologue5
- None
I use the 2007 Nissan Skyline 350GT Type SP. It is a very fun drifter, and in personal records it has the highest score at my test track (Eiger Nordwand Forward) with almost 10,750 points. The car behind it was a 2007 Lexus IS-F. I normally set my car with:
Power: 0
Weight: -15
Turning Angle: 50
ABS: 5
Gear Ratios: change them for a lower ratio so I'm not stuck in first.
And I change the F/R Distribution on 4WD cars to 50/50.
I also have the Dodge Viper GTS as a 10,000 car, along with the 2007 Nissan Skyline Coupe 370GT Type SP. I can drift with almost anything, due to thousands of attempts at the Eiger. The 2006 Ford GT is my only other 10,000 point car.
Power: 0
Weight: -15
Turning Angle: 50
ABS: 5
Gear Ratios: change them for a lower ratio so I'm not stuck in first.
And I change the F/R Distribution on 4WD cars to 50/50.
I also have the Dodge Viper GTS as a 10,000 car, along with the 2007 Nissan Skyline Coupe 370GT Type SP. I can drift with almost anything, due to thousands of attempts at the Eiger. The 2006 Ford GT is my only other 10,000 point car.
- 315
- North Korea
- SaveMGO
Realy? My Blitz Skyline R34 can only get 10,450 points!
- 3,132
- GTP_GTPrologue5
- None
Realy? My Blitz Skyline R34 can only get 10,450 points!
Ooh, D1GP served by a Nissan version of the G37.
My favorite drift cars are:
1. Ferrari California (N3/N2, lightly lowered, min. weight, stock hp, 5.0 final drive)
2. Lotus 111R GT Concept (N3/N2, lightly lowered, min. weight, +40hp, 4.5 final drive)
3.TVR Tamora (N3/N2, lightly lowere, min. weight, stock hp, 4.5 final drive
4.350z rs GT Concept (N2/N1, lightly lowered, min. weight, +40 hp, 5.0 final drive and shortened 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear)
5.Ferrari 512bb (N3/N2, -10front-7rear, min. weight, stock hp, 4.5 final drive)
Also, each car has light positive camber.
The Ferrari California can shift from 2nd to 3rd while drifting with NO delay (sequential shifter) which racks up the points in the thousands. The GT tuned Lotus 111R is my baby... does anything you want it to and very stable when kept close to stock. The Tamora got 3rd because I just stared using it, it might be better than the tuned Lotus.
1. Ferrari California (N3/N2, lightly lowered, min. weight, stock hp, 5.0 final drive)
2. Lotus 111R GT Concept (N3/N2, lightly lowered, min. weight, +40hp, 4.5 final drive)
3.TVR Tamora (N3/N2, lightly lowere, min. weight, stock hp, 4.5 final drive
4.350z rs GT Concept (N2/N1, lightly lowered, min. weight, +40 hp, 5.0 final drive and shortened 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear)
5.Ferrari 512bb (N3/N2, -10front-7rear, min. weight, stock hp, 4.5 final drive)
Also, each car has light positive camber.
The Ferrari California can shift from 2nd to 3rd while drifting with NO delay (sequential shifter) which racks up the points in the thousands. The GT tuned Lotus 111R is my baby... does anything you want it to and very stable when kept close to stock. The Tamora got 3rd because I just stared using it, it might be better than the tuned Lotus.
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