◆ SNAIL [Spec] Racing - Currently Recruiting for GT7 - JOIN TODAY!!Open 

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I’ve got my Fanatec DD Pro on this little rig that I pull up to the coach when I’m racing. So no back support at all.
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I dug up a chair from the basement this morning that I intend to try tonight. It’s low seated so hopefully makes it more tolerable.

But the long term answer is a rig that doesn’t take up too much space.
Need a Roland JC 120 or a Fender twin reverb.
 
I’ve got my Fanatec DD Pro on this little rig that I pull up to the coach when I’m racing. So no back support at all.
View attachment 1352136

I dug up a chair from the basement this morning that I intend to try tonight. It’s low seated so hopefully makes it more tolerable.

But the long term answer is a rig that doesn’t take up too much space.

Yeah if you can get lower and more 'in' to your rig, the better I think. Hopefully the chair makes a difference. When I started back with SNAIL I was on the couch and I was never looking forward to the last two races. I found myself sitting above the wheel and over compensating with my back (I'm tall and lanky). Since moving lower in position I haven't had any problems! Look forward to having you back on track!

I've attached a photo of my rig. I need to find some way of inclining the whole rig so my girlfriend can have her cushion back 😅. The chair was a street-side find when students were moving out of the area last year. Thrifty is the name of my game. As you can see, I haven't yet bought a proper cushion for the seat..
 

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Sadly, that Fender is nothing more than a showpiece. Got it in the early 90’s but never really learned to play it.

Put a little money into a few years ago and was having fun playing Rocksmith on the PS4.

But it looks nice in my little media room I’ve got here.
Yes it does.
 
Yeah if you can get lower and more 'in' to your rig, the better I think. Hopefully the chair makes a difference. When I started back with SNAIL I was on the couch and I was never looking forward to the last two races. I found myself sitting above the wheel and over compensating with my back (I'm tall and lanky). Since moving lower in position I haven't had any problems! Look forward to having you back on track!

I've attached a photo of my rig. I need to find some way of inclining the whole rig so my girlfriend can have her cushion back 😅. The chair was a street-side find when students were moving out of the area last year. Thrifty is the name of my game. As you can see, I haven't yet bought a proper cushion for the seat..
I did the same IKEA chair when I started online racing. Had to block out the bounce it has with a few wood dowels. I still enjoy it, ten years later. LOL. However, the sweat stands are permanent. No one else will touch it. LOL!!! :lol:
 
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I'll get the ball rolling for the liveries and since I'm deep into RDR2, here are my three cars in Saint Denis aka New Orleans.

This will be a challenging sunday night for me. Two tracks that I struggle with, Tokyo and Willow Springs but I'll take it as an opportunity to improve myself. Oh and I started practicing, for those who wondered if wall riding the last corner at Tokyo is faster than taking it normally, yes it is...but do it at your own risk of having lots of IR filed against you :lol:
What happen to the rainbow coalition? That was easy to spot. Nice livery pick. Or did you actually get creative?
 
What happen to the rainbow coalition? That was easy to spot. Nice livery pick. Or did you actually get creative?
Thanks, and always assume I picked my liveries from the showcase. I lack the time, patience, skills and creativity to do my own…but I sprained my back yesterday so for the next month I got the time but still lacking the three other elements.
 
So it's been a while. Let me start by apologising for the upcoming longpost. With the help of many, and thank you to all that were there, I had the opportunity to update a study on tyre compounds that I completed a few years ago, which was itself an update on a study done a dozen or so years ago by a fellow racer and sim enthusiast in his 370z. Unfortunately the links to the original study done in GT5 are now dead, but I'll include them in some of the background below. The tl/dr for those looking for the relevant numbers in GT7, skip to the spoiler tag so labelled below.

It's no secret now that the tyres in GT7 are 'faster' and higher grip than you would expect from their real life comparables. This has been the case for a long time. For some context, here is a post from elsewhere in 2013 from another racer and astrophysathingy;

So, re. the "realism" of GT5 - it turns out the relative ease of driving the cars seems to come from a widely overoptimistic tire model. I think GT5 does a good job in that the cars' suspensions and handing feel, IMO, quite similar to the real ones (comparing cars I actually drove on the track - Suzuki Swift Sport, NA Miata, RX8, Civic Si). The cars are, however, easier to drive than in iRacing, even with all nannies turned off. So what's the difference?

I cannot remember the link now, but some pro racing team compared grip, cornering speeds etc from real life data of their race modded 370Z on R comps to GT5, where they tried to replicate the car. It turns out that the real-life R comp was best matched by a comfort soft tire in GT5. Comfort soft!!!.

This explains why my & Jens' real life Ring times are so much slower than an identical car in GT5 would do: We drive on Toyo R888s in real life, and I tried both "sports soft" and "racing hard" in GT5, resulting in lap times that were 20-30 seconds or more too fast (!) for an 8-9 minute lap on the Ring. Especially for the Swift, I knew I had driven it very close to its limit in real life, and also the RX8 saw maybe 8/10.

Once I switched to "comfort soft" in GT5, the lap times matched the real life times very closely! The turn in behavior is of course very different, especially FWD cars understeer like pigs, and you drive with a different slip angle than on semi-R-comps.

So, there you have it: GT5 seems to compensate for the simulation-inherent hardship of lack-of-butt-feedback-and-real-3-D, simply by making the tires wayyyy too sticky. Who knew?

This may be partially responsible for n00bs showing up at the Ring and on their first lap out, exceeding their traction limits catastrophically, being calibrated by GT5 "street" tires that are, in fact, sticking like slicks.

The subsequent reply to the above post by the author of the referenced grip comparison;

That was me comparing data from our CTSCC car to a close equivalent in GT5. It was an interesting experiment that confirmed what I had always thought - GT5's race tires were stickier than real tires.

http://gtxfrefuge.freeforums.org/bui...gt5-t1146.html

It's worth noting the hard compound Continentals don't have as much grip as, say, the Pirellis in WC. It's possible Sports Hard tires might be closer to the mark for the top tier racing tires.
Unfortunately, that link is dead. I can ask Bryan if he has the original data, though it's not really relevant now anyway. What is important to note is that this issue is not new and goes back to the beginnings of GT's online era. Even in GT5, the top tier racing tyres were somewhere near Sports Hards - Mediums at most. You'll find that hasn't really changed.

Next, I will copy in its entirety a post I made in 2021 detailing me redoing these experiments in GTS;

Life has prevented me from having this fully sorted out by now, but I did get time to test a bunch of cars and do some research into the tyre options.

Some detail on that. The idea behind the series is to have a driving experience more realistic to what most of us experience in real life. Very few of us drive 750hp turbo rocketships with 4000lbs of downforce at 100mph and magical tyres so sticky that we use them to catch flies when they cycle out. Many of us drive ****boxes on roller skates, having to constantly balance throttle inputs with steering angle or end up backwards, having to modulate braking inputs, all the while managing a third pedal and shifter. The typical stuff it in, mash this, mash that and go is fun for horsing around, but it isn't realistic and doesn't translate well to real life situations. And I keeps it real, so of course harder compound tyres were central to getting the 'feel' right for what I'm looking for. Ever the self doubter, I still decided to take some time to verify my hunch to stick with a Sports Hard.

Anyway, long ago, Bryan had done a comparison of GT(5?) in game tyre options with his real life data from the Nissan Z. Having a replica of the car in the game, combined with real life data, allowed comparisons to the in game datalogger that was present at the time. IIRC, the general findings were that something like a Hoosier R fell somewhere around a Sports Hard to Sports Medium, with real slicks being closer in grip to Sports Softs, and anything beyond Racing Hards being unrealistic grip levels for anything a production car could generate. Crazy downforce cars and racing specials aside. The current hot 200s were closer to a Comfort Softs, and most OEM tyres were more like Comfort Hards, or worse. Things have changed a bit in the tyre market in the last decade, and unfortunately GTsport doesn't have a datalogger. Or even visual indicator for lateral g forces. Or just about anything to go off. It was time to design an experiment.

So, I set about trying to first find some sort of data I can use to compare the grip of various tyres in the game, to some data that would be available in the real world. Cornering speeds, speeds at visual checkpoints, etc. Next, since this would involve running many laps, preferably in the greatest number of different tracks, that could be compared with a real life example. So most important was to find a car that could be most closely duplicated in GT Sport, that would also have an abundance of data in real life. That led me to the BRZ/FRS/86, which is present in stock form in game and runs in very limited prep in 86cup, at three of the tracks that the game happens to have modeled. That was about as close as I was going to get, so I ran with it. As a bonus, there is tons of non-86cup data out there as well, with these cars being very popular track cars even in stock form.

I first went and gathered some lap time data from a test Randy Pobst had run of a stock example at Laguna to compare lap times just to get in the ballpark of a stock Primacy. Also had some data from a tyre test he ran in a stock example at Streets of Willow. At this point all I had was raw lap times without associated data, but I was just looking to ballpark it at that point. To get a real idea was going to involve examining minimum corner speeds, max straightaway speeds, speeds at various points on track, etc to get the whole story. Just because a tyre runs similar laps in game doesn't mean they are getting there the same way. And that's where 86cup data comes in, with an abundance of data and replays available to compare speeds at exact points on the track, etc. That way I could rule out a lot of the 'hero' factor that is present on a sim(we take greater risks without consequence, etc.)

If you've made it this far into this post, I'll reward you with not posting tons of boring data and maps and scribbled notes with corner speeds and sector times and straightaway traps, etc. I'll cut to the point. And that point is that the previous assessment remains fairly accurate, at least until you get into the very high speed tracks.* For example, in the comparison laps a BRZ on A052s is directly comparable to a BRZ on Sports Hards at Streets of Willow. Cornering minimums, straightaway traps, and overall lap time. It's almost spot on. The same comparison on Big Willow is less accurate, although the data makes it easy to see where. In real life, the car gains 16mph from the T9 to T1 there, whereas the BRZ in the game picks up 21mph. This is with the same exit speed from T9. It is clear through additional studying that the game does not apply the increased rolling and aero drag quite accurately. The cornering speeds remained comparable, and the difference in lap times was found to be in the speed delta on the long straight rather than cornering ability. So I don't ramble further, the data compiled and compared consisted of a number of laps of known BRZ/86 cars at Streets, Big Willow, and Laguna. Data collected was controlled as much as possible for similar time of day, weather, etc. Below is what I found.

How it all shakes out is that in this case, OE primacy is most directly comparable to Comfort Hards. From there, it is not a big jump to Comfort Mediums, which are closer to something like a GT Radial or other second tier performance street tyre. Much like real life, there is a large delta between Comfort Mediums and Comfort Softs. Just like how a sporty summer tyre is sort of nowhere in the ballpark of a super 200 on track. The difference between a Comfort Medium and Comfort Soft was ~4 seconds at Streets on a stock BRZ, which was about the same delta as I found between the Re11a and A052 on the same car at the same track in real life data. So that makes sense. Current mid-level 200s slot in right around Comfort Softs, with the super 200s like A052s and Re71s falling in between a Comfort Soft and Sports Hard. The 'trackday' 100tw options mostly fall in between a Sports Hard and Sports Medium, with fresh HoHos just a tick faster than Sports Mediums. I really can't find any data on stock examples of the car on full slicks, so that's about as far as I went.

And that's about it. If folks actually want to look at the numbers I can post it, but I figured this post was long enough already.

Now, below I'll include my findings for GT7;

I'll start with some of the tyre comparisons between GTS and GT7. Beginning at high altitude and looking at raw lap times for the same between GTS and GT7, on the same 2015 BRZ at Laguna Seca using the same lobby settings.

Tyre - GTS ------- GT7

CH - 1'55.213 - 1'54.191
CM - 1'53.239 - 1'49.494
CS - 1'48.535 - 1'45.323
SH - 1'46.190 - 1'43.213
SM - 1'44.925 - 1'41.380
SS - NO DATA - 1'39.706
RH - NO DATA - 1'36.869

Compared to GTSport, each tyre compound has increased grip and ultimate lap pace. CS is faster than SH used to be on the same car, and SH are faster than SM used to be. I suspect they are as fast as SS was in GTSport, but my data at Laguna stopped at SM because that was already way into silly amounts of grip for the stock car. Data I have from other experiments show that SH in GT7 is as fast as SS was in GTSport, and that SM are just as fast as RH was in GTSport. It seems like the further up the compound list we go, the bigger the jumps. CH and CM may only be one compound softer, but by SM and SS they're two compounds softer than they used to be.

For comparison to real life, the all time lap record in 86cup for a stock class 2013-16 BRZ/FRS at Laguna is 1'48.633. Now, it is important to note that a stock class 86cup car is allowed larger wheels than stock, up to 8" wide, as well as increased camber, and big brake kits with larger calipers and rotors. So the cars should, in theory, have more grip than our stock versions and be a tick faster on any given tyre. The spec tyre that 86cup uses in stock class is the GT Radial SX2. It's a 200 treadwear, street legal track oriented tyre. It is a mid level tyre in the Extreme Performance Summer category for tyres, usually a couple of seconds slower than the fastest 200tw like the Yokohama A052 and Bridgestone Potenza RE71RS. These are all track tyres designed to be 'street legal' to drive to and from the track. The fastest lap I can find of any 2013-16 FRS/BRZ running those top tier 200tw tyres like the Yokohama and Bridgestone RE71 is 1'46.334, and that car has a header and a number of other power adding modifications as well. Looking at the raw lap times alone, I would wager that even CS tyres are likely faster than any lap that any stock FRS/BRZ has ever run at Laguna on any tyre.

Even the 86cup lap record for unlimited class, which is 700hp LS swaps and/or superchargers and full race tyres and crazy aero is 1'36.904. (iirc it's a supercharged car that holds the record.)

Now, there is more to it than lap times. In order to determine truly whether the tyre have more grip or not, I needed to look at the cornering speeds; entry speeds, and minimum/apex speeds. This is where those track maps with all the speeds at various points on the track come in. As a comparison, I'll use T8 at Streets of Willow as an example, as it is a fairly long sustained turn on camber that the car remains loaded up and makes a great indicator of overall grip. In parenthesis are the overall lap times for comparison as well.

Game/Compound(Lap Time) - T8 Entry speed - T8 Minimum/apex speed
GTSport CS(1'27.283) ---------------78 ----------------------- 41
GTSport SH(1'25.557) -------------- 79------------------------45
GT7 CM(1'27.778) -------------------76 ----------------------- 43
GT7 CS(1'25.925) -------------------76 ----------------------- 45
GT7 SH(1'23.533) ------------------ 79 ----------------------- 47

As you can tell, overall grip is up an entire compound. CS has a lower entry speed and can still maintain the same minimum speeds as SH used to, which shows that the car is scrubbing less, in other words the car isn't working nearly as hard to get to the apex and make the turn. It is easier to run just as fast of a lap time on a compound harder tyre than in GTSport. For real life comparison, the 86cup lap record at Streets of Willow in stock class is 1'29.352. The lap record on a street class first gen FRS/BRZ 2013-2015 is 1'25.915. That is with a header, exhaust, intake, tune, wide wheels, weight removal, etc. Those cars are about 250-255hp and 2600lbs on Yokohama A052s, the fastest of the 'street' tyres. The apex speed in T8 in that car was 43mph, for comparison.

In summary, as relevant to a production car(as noted in the background info above, racing specials with super high downforce aside,) the most comparable tyres in GT7 compared to their real life counterparts are as follows;

CH: OE Performance Summer or Ultra High Performance All Season Tyres like the Michelin Pilot Sport AS, Conti Extreme Contact DWS
<Then there is a pretty big jump>
CM: Low-Mid Level Extreme Performance Summer Tyres like the stock 86cup spec racing tyre and Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 2
CS: Top Tier super200tw Extreme Performance Summer category tyres designed specifically for track use like the A052 and RE71RS
SH: DOT Radial Competition Only Race Tyres like the Yokohama A055 and corn-fed baddie Hoosier R7
SM: Full Bias ply racing slicks
SS: Magical Faerie Dust tyres
RH and Above: lolwut

Anyway, in conclusion the tyre options have not only gotten a compound or two stickier and faster going from GTS to GT7, but the names of the tyre options themselves are somewhat mislabeled. By the time you are into the lower end of "sports" tyres in the game you are well into "racing" tyres in real life. Pretty much the same as GT5 above. :lol: 😭

There are a lot of other conversations that can be had around the tyres and I have a TON more data and information and all that good stuff, but I figured this is enough for now. If folks are interested in the nitty gritty I can go over that another time, but my goal for now was just to detail a summary of the findings and some of the numbers that came out of our efforts. I wanted to give folks who helped me gather everything to put this together a bit of a conclusion, and a thanks as well. Sorry it took so long to follow up here, been a busy spring!

:cheers:
 
Perhaps a silly question but I’m trying to set myself up a practice lobby according to the Snail Specs. I found a Snail document telling me how a lobby should be set up.
IMG_4924.jpeg

When I look at row 28 - Setting Options. In the game, that options shows Suspension, Differential and Transmission details. All
Of them have a check mark by default.

Should these all be “unchecked”?
(Damping ratios, toe Angle, etc…there’s like 13 categories)

Or left all with their checkmarks?
 
I took the leap into VR and got a VR2 headset yesterday. Today I exchanged it for a different one. The issue I had, and still have, is a very blurry image. I do wear prescription glasses, but they are small. I've worked on headset position (a lot), pupil distance, screen brightness and eye tracking. Have any VR2 wearers had this issue? Solutions?

How clear should I expect? My test has been at Tokyo Expressway Central Clockwise. When I sit in the Bulgari (any topless car should work) on the start grid in P1 and look around; the Starter? in the stand is very blurry. The signs (Tokyo Expwy, etc) are hard to read. It's very hard to see up the track.
 
I took the leap into VR and got a VR2 headset yesterday. Today I exchanged it for a different one. The issue I had, and still have, is a very blurry image. I do wear prescription glasses, but they are small. I've worked on headset position (a lot), pupil distance, screen brightness and eye tracking. Have any VR2 wearers had this issue? Solutions?

How clear should I expect? My test has been at Tokyo Expressway Central Clockwise. When I sit in the Bulgari (any topless car should work) on the start grid in P1 and look around; the Starter? in the stand is very blurry. The signs (Tokyo Expwy, etc) are hard to read. It's very hard to see up the track.
I don’t recall it being blurry. I’m about to fire mine up right now.
I’ll report back.

Edit - there is a little wheel that you’d use your left index or thumb to fine tune the fit once it’s on your head.
Just as a FYI. It does help with blurryness.
 
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I took the leap into VR and got a VR2 headset yesterday. Today I exchanged it for a different one. The issue I had, and still have, is a very blurry image. I do wear prescription glasses, but they are small. I've worked on headset position (a lot), pupil distance, screen brightness and eye tracking. Have any VR2 wearers had this issue? Solutions?

How clear should I expect? My test has been at Tokyo Expressway Central Clockwise. When I sit in the Bulgari (any topless car should work) on the start grid in P1 and look around; the Starter? in the stand is very blurry. The signs (Tokyo Expwy, etc) are hard to read. It's very hard to see up the track.
I had a bit of the same issue when wearing my glasses under VR. I have bifocals and that caused most of it. After a couple months of somewhat struggling with it, I ordered some HONSVR lens inserts without the bifocal part, which on my glasses is set for seeing things under 3' away. The headset projects the "screen" about 6' so don't need that part of the lens anyway. There are more than a couple VR lens insert manufacturers. The other I've read about here at GTPlanet is VR Optician. Depending on how old your Rx is for your glasses you might consider getting a new exam. Also, there is a very small "sweet spot" for clarity on VR Fresnel lenses themselves. Getting the headset positioned so you're seeing with that sweet spot is pretty much a keep fiddling with it until you find it. You will also find yourself moving your head more than your eyes so that your always looking through that spot. Getting the inserts is also good for the VR lens protection. When I was still using my glasses I found to get the best clarity I had to get the VR lens pretty much touching my glass lens and the whole thing was just uncomfortable on my nose, not to mention possibly scratching both sets. If you have the time, have a read through the early pages of this thread. Even now things at a distance are less clear than the dash.
 
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Edit - there is a little wheel that you’d use your left index or thumb to fine tune the fit once it’s on your head.
Just as a FYI. It does help with blurryness.

Thanks @Buffalo_DRD I believe that is the pupil distance adjustment. I've tinkered with that, but I can never get a clear image. Compared to viewing the game on a 4k TV how would you rate the clarity of the scene. Pretty much everything I look at in VR makes me think I need an eye exam, it's that blurry. I plan on going back to BestBuy and hopefully talk to someone with more VR experience than me.
 
I had a bit of the same issue when wearing my glasses under VR. I have bifocals and that caused most of it. After a couple months of somewhat struggling with it, I ordered some HONSVR lens inserts without the bifocal part, which on my glasses is set for seeing things under 3' away. The headset projects the "screen" about 6' so don't need that part of the lens anyway. There are more than a couple VR lens insert manufacturers. The other I've read about here at GTPlanet is VR Optician. Depending on how old your Rx is for your glasses you might consider getting a new exam. Also, there is a very small "sweet spot" for clarity on VR lenses themselves. Getting the headset positioned so you're seeing with that sweet spot is pretty much a keep fiddling with it until you find it. You will also find yourself moving your head more than your eyes so that your always looking through that spot. Getting the inserts is also good for the VR lens protection. When I was still using my glasses I found to get the best clarity I had to get the VR lens pretty much touching my glass lens and the whole thing was just uncomfortable on my nose, not to mention possibly scratching both sets. If you have the time, have a read through the early pages of this thread.
Thanks, I'll look into your suggestions. My glasses are progressives and I was wondering if that might be an issue. I might even try some cheap ready readers.
 
Edit - there is a little wheel that you’d use your left index or thumb to fine tune the fit once it’s on your head.
Just as a FYI. It does help with blurryness.

Thanks @Buffalo_DRD I believe that is the pupil distance adjustment. I've tinkered with that, but I can never get a clear image. Compared to viewing the game on a 4k TV how would you rate the clarity of the scene. Pretty much everything I look at in VR makes me think I need an eye exam, it's that blurry. I plan on going back to BestBuy and hopefully talk to someone with more VR experience than me.
To me, it’s definitely more “grainy” looking through the VR, as opposed to looking at a 4K big screen. No doubt.

But the feeling of being that much more immersed in the race is worth it.

But I’m no expert. I don’t use it as much as I should, but when I put it on, I ask myself why I don’t I use this all the time? The answer is I’m still not as good as being aware of my surroundings. I’d hate to race with it on a Sunday and have 3 incident reports filed on me and end up on probation. Lol.
 
It's like 720p clarity. But you don't notice it after a while really. You will get used to it such that it makes zero difference in the car. But, yeah it will never actually be clear like a screen. Think of the best view you could get wearing 3d glasses. It's not perfect.

Edit: I have VR Opticians inserts.
I've been to a couple of 3D movies and I've never said "Dang that's blurry". But, that's what I said (say) about what I'm seeing. I would be thrilled with 720p. DragonWhisky also mentioned VR Opticians. I'll check it out. Thanks.
 
Edit - there is a little wheel that you’d use your left index or thumb to fine tune the fit once it’s on your head.
Just as a FYI. It does help with blurryness.

Thanks @Buffalo_DRD I believe that is the pupil distance adjustment. I've tinkered with that, but I can never get a clear image. Compared to viewing the game on a 4k TV how would you rate the clarity of the scene. Pretty much everything I look at in VR makes me think I need an eye exam, it's that blurry. I plan on going back to BestBuy and hopefully talk to someone with more VR experience than me.
Get the eye exam done before you give up on it. Since I don't have a 4K TV, I can't speak to comparisons with one but I've read, as Marcus points out above, it's actually considerably less than the resolution of a 4K TV. Much like Marcus, I found it doesn't matter. Once I'm driving, all else falls away, I'm sitting in the car and can better perceive the dimensions of the space I sit in, in relation to the spaces it's traveling through. It's better than a set of triples and considerably less hardware to fiddle with, not to mention the expense of said hardware.
 
Get the eye exam done before you give up on it. Since I don't have a 4K TV, I can't speak to comparisons with one but I've read, as Marcus points out above, it's actually considerably less than the resolution of a 4K TV. Much like Marcus, I found it doesn't matter. Once I'm driving, all else falls away, I'm sitting in the car and can better perceive the dimensions of the space I sit in, in relation to the spaces it's traveling through. It's better than a set of triples and considerably less hardware to fiddle with, not to mention the expense of said hardware.
But I’m no expert. I don’t use it as much as I should, but when I put it on, I ask myself why I don’t I use this all the time? The answer is I’m still not as good as being aware of my surroundings. I’d hate to race with it on a Sunday and have 3 incident reports filed on me and end up on probation. Lol.
LOL. Eye exam next Thursday, but booked months ago. But, the last few years the prescriptions hasn't changed much. I'm hoping to take my VR2 back to BestBuy and use it in store and get their opinion.

Interesting 'takes' on the perspective VR gives the driving feel. I'm in Dragon's camp; even though it's not clear, it's doable and I find my situational awareness much better. I feel better able to judge braking when following, I can check mirrors easily, I can see things out of the corner of my eye. But, the Weekly Challenge at Lake Louise was a bit rock and rolly for this VR noob. :D
 
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LOL. Eye exam next Thursday, but booked months ago. But, the last few years the prescriptions hasn't changed much. I'm hoping to take my VR2 back to BestBuy and use it in store and get their opinion.

Interesting 'takes' on the perspective VR gives the driving feel. I'm in Dragon's camp; even though it's not clear, it's doable and I find my situational awareness much better. I feel better able to judge braking when following, I can check mirrors easily, I can see things out of the corner of my eye. But, the Weekly Challenge at Lake Louise was a bit rock and rolly for this VR noob. :D
Lake Louise would not be what I consider a good track to introduce to your early VR experience. I still get whoopsie moments on severe elevation and yaw changes when I drive. Backing up in VR is an almost certain whoopsie moment, unless I look in the mirrors or close my eyes while I do it. Take it in short sessions until those "VR Legs" are under you. Beware the VR hangover too.

I've probably got 1/5th the time on GT7 I had on GTs 5 & 6 and with the latter 2 I ran in hood/roof view on the same TV I still have. I never did achieve the precision I have with VR.

Tokyo Expressway - East Clockwise__2.jpeg


Tokyo Expressway - East Clockwise__1.jpeg


Tokyo Expressway - East Clockwise_.jpeg

I'm not always that close but, I get there more often with VR.
I'm convinced trying to do this kind of driving in pancake mode woulda' had me pinballing around this track.

Full replay of that credit farming race on 30APR2024.

 
I think we need to talk about what you did to that Chevelle.
Captain America Lol GIF by mtv


Here I was thinkin' you'd be all happy to see I was runnin' on SH shoes. :P

I gots 2 that are stock. One painted in my colors and one left in showroom paint. I have another sitting with even more parts on it than that one, sitting at 699PP, and thinkin' 'bout buying another to tinker with.

IRL, if I had the $$, I'd find me a '70 Chevelle and do much, much more to it.

@CANOWORMS1 my glasses are progressive as well. If you order the inserts you'll need to exclude the bifocal numbers.
 
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Thanks to all who have given me their two bits (used to be two cents...inflation) 😁. I went to Bestbuy and Game Stop without much success. But I did hit Dollarama for a pair of reading glasses. Now I'm looking for a play date with a fellow VR user to go on track and compare views. A party chat would be superior.
 
Thanks to all who have given me their two bits (used to be two cents...inflation) 😁. I went to Bestbuy and Game Stop without much success. But I did hit Dollarama for a pair of reading glasses. Now I'm looking for a play date with a fellow VR user to go on track and compare views. A party chat would be superior.
I can probably be available. When works for you?
 
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