◆ SNAIL [Spec] Racing - Currently Recruiting for GT7 - JOIN TODAY!!Open 

  • Thread starter zer05ive
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Kinda confused here, round 3 calls for :
"ROUND THREE[/URL]
Mazda RX-7 Touring Car
(174HP / PP 563) (Racing Hard tires)
at Silverstone International (10 laps)"

The car comes stock 463HP/569PP, Am I having a brain fart? because I cant get that car down to 174HP.

Also is tuning parts that come on the car from dealer ok?
Those values look wrong. Buy the car from the dealer, get an oil change, do nothing else to it and you'll be ready to race. Throw down a 1:03 at Silverstone International in an open lobby with tire wear on and you'll be in business.
 
Those values look wrong. Buy the car from the dealer, get an oil change, do nothing else to it and you'll be ready to race. Throw down a 1:03 at Silverstone International in an open lobby with tire wear on and you'll be in business.
Lap time are subsequent to the division your in. As you move up divisions race pace also increases.
 
Kinda confused here, round 3 calls for :
"ROUND THREE[/URL]
Mazda RX-7 Touring Car
(174HP / PP 563) (Racing Hard tires)
at Silverstone International (10 laps)"

The car comes stock 463HP/569PP, Am I having a brain fart? because I cant get that car down to 174HP.

Also is tuning parts that come on the car from dealer ok?
Yep anythingon the car when purchased needs to stay on the car, what's further, absolutely no changes can be made to any part, sans tires. So, even thou the car comes with an adjustable suspension does not mean you can adjust it.
Also, I think the real life counter part to this car would actually be close to 174 HP. There is a racing series out there that runs a spec 3rd gen with a 12a rotary engine. Even with a peripheral port, you will only get about 200hp without forced induction out of a 12a.
 
Well, not quite what I was thinking, but look at this!!!!http://www.specrx7.com/
@Handlebar, word. I wasn't argueing that the numbers were right at all man. I am aware of what numbers the TC cars come with, and that they are not 174 hp. I was just commenting on how I thought it was neat that the numbers actually closely match an actual spec rx7 track car. However, after doing some searching, I can't seem to find the series anymore, but found that one above instead. I have another 1st gen on the line possibly, maybe I will build something for the SCCA it7 class... Hmmmm. Just need to figure out sponsorship....
 
I don't think so but we are in a division again pyxen. Let's hope we can see each other more on track than GT5 days.:rolleyes:
 
Picture time!
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New colors: body, Blue Scozia. Rims, Azul Swing.
 
I can't find the link to register your color/number, look like its not in the first spot ( but i know i see it somewhere, but where,?) if anybody could help me with that, ?
 
I can't find the link to register your color/number, look like its not in the first spot ( but i know i see it somewhere, but where,?) if anybody could help me with that, ?
If your looking to edit his combo, you don't have access to edit that sheet. All he, or anyone need do to "edit" their colors is simply fill out the form again. Which he can get to following the link in my sig.
 
Since this is a 3rd gen it would likely have a 13b, not a 12a. A Peripheral Port 13B N/A is good for 300-325 hp. However this car in the game has a turbo so who knows. One thing is for sure, 175 hp doesn't get you to 170+ mph.

Oh, and I think I did hear something about that 12a class...175hp would sound about right. Racers used the 12a because SCCA rules helped the 12a be a little more competitive in class. You couldn't win with the 13b.
 
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Since this is a 3rd gen it would likely have a 13b, not a 12a. A Peripheral Port 13B N/A is good for 300-325 hp. However this car in the game has a turbo so who knows. One thing is for sure, 175 hp doesn't get you to 170+ mph.

Oh, and I think I did hear something about that 12a class...175hp would sound about right. Racers used the 12a because SCCA rules helped the 12a be a little more competitive in class. You couldn't win with the 13b.
Likely? In this game, I promise that Every rotary powered vehicle has a 13b turbo, aside from the 787b. Which is a 4 rotor engine. Further, all third gens from the factory came only with a turbo charged 13b, but would not hit 175+ mph. The trans is not geared for that You all seem to be misreading what I am saying, a lot. There is, or possibly was, a Spec race that ran third gens equipped with 12a engines. That was all I was saying. Not that 3rd gens came with them, or that the HP numbers quoted for the TC were correct. If you want, I can break down the history of the RX7, including big differences and little nuansices between year, model, engine, drivetrain, interior, extrior, and factory options. I am well versed in all things RX7, and feel confident in my rotary knowldge, having owned and obessed over them for roughly 15 years now.
 
No need. We're on the same page. Although I don't own an RX-7 at present time I do have a REPU with a 4-port 13B. It's fun. I tow a camper with it to car shows and race weekends. Eventually I'd like to be towing a track car with it...but I'm still warming the wife up to that.


...and yes, I get lots of looks when people find out I've been towing with a rotary.
 
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I watched Fast and the Furious movies last night and they had RX-7 so I feel that I am an expert. @Rallywagon is right, take it from me.
Sadly, I think some people use that movie as a serious qualifier for actual car knowledge. Cause, you know, when your laptop screams "Danger to Manifold" floor boards are ensured to go flying off the car...

All that aside, I figured Chuyler had to know a thing or two about the vintage rotaries, after correcting my RX4 post (in truth, I would rather have an rx4, but more because it looks better then any racing heritage.) The REPU is a truck that I would love to own. Finding one worth a damn is hard, getting harder though. I do know a couple of people out your way that are selling 1st gens at a steal. One of them lives in Little Rock. I might be able to set something up for you if you can talk to wife into it.
 
Little Rock is quite a haul. I'm more interested in getting a clean rust free 1st gen on cheap money...or a car already built for SCCA racing that I could just hop in and have fun with. I'm plugged into the local rotary scene and have friends that could help out...I just need to find the time and money. I've come close to selling my daily driver for a low miles RX7 a few times.
 
Hello S.N.A.I.L community. Probably the biggest community on gt6 net!
Wood like to join yours events,, so, what shell I do?
It will be my pleasure to participate in any race with Good drivers!👍
@SpeedyMcQueen,
Thanks for your interest!
We would love to have you in the league. Here's what you need to know and do in order to join:

We run a clean league by enforcing a strict penalty system based on the S.N.A.I.L. OLR (which is a modified version of the GTP OLR). We also expect all of our drivers to know and follow The Good Racecraft Guide.
Please become versed in both if you aren't already. Once that is complete, please follow the steps below to complete your entry into the league:

1. You take the S.N.A.I.L. OLR and Racecraft Test

2. You run the Time Trial and submit your information by midnight EST on Saturday night if you want to race this Sunday.

3. @JLBowler PM's you with your assigned Division that we feel will give you the closest competition. You will be added to the drivers list.

4. The Race Director or Primary Host from the corresponding SNAIL Division will send you a PSN friend request. Sunday night you will need to sort the online lobbies by friends and join the lobby named 'snailracing.org Division_(x) based off your Division placement from JLBowler. That lobby will be where you race Sunday.

5. You drive fast and clean on Sunday 👍

The original post has everything you need to know about what to expect on Sunday night and what you will need to have completed in order to be competitive. If you have any questions, please feel free to post your question on the thread.

If you have a preference for car/wheel colour and racing number, please follow the instruction contained here.
To avoid duplication, the currently claimed combinations can be found here.

During the week we run a number of different events, we encourage all SNAILs to join as many as possible.

Welcome to S.N.A.I.L. :cheers:
 
Hello,
I am definetly wishing to join a Racing League and SNAIL sounds perfect.
Can I join?
The Engineer
PSN ID: MrProject_74
@The Engineer,
Thanks for your interest!
We would love to have you in the league. Here's what you need to know and do in order to join:

We run a clean league by enforcing a strict penalty system based on the S.N.A.I.L. OLR (which is a modified version of the GTP OLR). We also expect all of our drivers to know and follow The Good Racecraft Guide.
Please become versed in both if you aren't already. Once that is complete, please follow the steps below to complete your entry into the league:

1. You take the S.N.A.I.L. OLR and Racecraft Test

2. You run the Time Trial and submit your information by midnight EST on Saturday night if you want to race this Sunday.

3. @JLBowler PM's you with your assigned Division that we feel will give you the closest competition. You will be added to the drivers list.

4. The Race Director or Primary Host from the corresponding SNAIL Division will send you a PSN friend request. Sunday night you will need to sort the online lobbies by friends and join the lobby named 'snailracing.org Division_(x) based off your Division placement from JLBowler. That lobby will be where you race Sunday.

5. You drive fast and clean on Sunday 👍

The original post has everything you need to know about what to expect on Sunday night and what you will need to have completed in order to be competitive. If you have any questions, please feel free to post your question on the thread.

If you have a preference for car/wheel colour and racing number, please follow the instruction contained here.
To avoid duplication, the currently claimed combinations can be found here.

During the week we run a number of different events, we encourage all SNAILs to join as many as possible.

Welcome to S.N.A.I.L. :cheers:
 
Are any West Coasters going to be online tonight? I am going to hop on around the normal time. I plan on spending an hour doing some practice. I would love some company.

After that if people are around and would like to try something a bit different I would love to try to introduce people to the DriveTrain Challenge format. Basically bring 4 cars (one FF, FR, 4wd, MR/RR) that the total PP for all 4 cars is 1600 (see example lineup below and all cars should be between 380-420pp). We will run 4 races on Sports Hard tires starting with qualifying at Apricot Hill. The next race will be reverse grid and the track will be decided by the winner of the first race. This continues until we have raced all four cars.

Hope to see some of you guys there tonight.

Hyundai Tiburon GT '01 - 390 - FF

Toyota MR2 Spyder (6MT) '02 - 385 - MR

Audi S3 '02 - 412 - 4W

Subaru BR-Z S ’12 - 413 - FR
Looked for you last night :) No dice.
 
Little Rock is quite a haul. I'm more interested in getting a clean rust free 1st gen on cheap money...or a car already built for SCCA racing that I could just hop in and have fun with. I'm plugged into the local rotary scene and have friends that could help out...I just need to find the time and money. I've come close to selling my daily driver for a low miles RX7 a few times.
I guess that depends on what you call a haul. I drove from Howell, up to Sue St. Mary just to swap a 13b TII for a 12a. About 700 miles round trip. But for the right car, I would travel pretty much anywere in the US.

@JJLopez427 , get a close up of those welds man! The fabricator in me wants to see! Looks awesome though. I am myself torn between using some steel stock or building a PVC rig. hances are good I won't do either. Only for the want to spend money on my real car now that I've been talking about it so much.
 
I guess that depends on what you call a haul. I drove from Howell, up to Sue St. Mary just to swap a 13b TII for a 12a. About 700 miles round trip. But for the right car, I would travel pretty much anywere in the US.
Its 1,500 miles for me, one way. If we were talking about a rare 70's rotary, sure, it might be worth taking a few days off to make the trip. However, I can find an FB/FC/FD within 150 miles if I wanted one so no sense in driving that far for something like that.
 
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