◆ SNAIL [Spec] Racing - Currently Recruiting for GT7 - JOIN TODAY!!Open 

  • Thread starter zer05ive
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Oshawa-Joe
GT Sport has a nonlinear throttle. Basically 50% to 100% throttle is applied in the last 25% of pedal travel...something like that. It's not your pedal. Its the game. Link is in my signature.

And my guess regarding the brake, never having used the G29 but I have used a Nixim modded G27, the rubber insert requires a lot of force to use properly and effectively. If you aren't engaging it fully it would probably mess up braking modulation and that's why people remove it or upgrade to the GTEYE brake spring.
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Might have to check out that spring...
 
I think the pedals might auto-calibrate in GTS as they have done in previous GT games. Meaning that you have to fully depress all pedals every time you start the game to calibrate them. If you don't fully depress the brake, the game registers the furthest point you have pressed it as 100% until you go past that point. A rubber stopper might be preventing full travel from happening and could lead to an inconsistent feel.
 
JLBowler
I think the pedals might auto-calibrate in GTS as they have done in previous GT games. Meaning that you have to fully depress all pedals every time you start the game to calibrate them. If you don't fully depress the brake, the game registers the furthest point you have pressed it as 100% until you go past that point. A rubber stopper might be preventing full travel from happening and could lead to an inconsistent feel.
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At what point during startup do you calibrate?
 
Neutty
At what point during startup do you calibrate?
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Any time after the game starts up. That's what worked in previous games. I can't speak for GTS specifically as I still press the pedal on start up out of habit and haven't attempted to see what happens if I don't. I can say that I've never noticed any strange behavior from my brake pedal.

Using G27 pedals with a T300 for reference.
 
nmcp1
@luke norris

Here's your official SNAIL Welcome Post!
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Thanks for your interest!
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Again, the original post has everything you need to know about what to expect on Sunday night and what you will need to have completed in order to be competitive. If you have any questions, please feel free to post your question on the thread. If you have a preference for car/wheel colour and racing number, please follow the instruction contained here.

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Welcome to SNAIL :cheers:
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So I have to go through the whole process again
 
My G29 broke after 14 months of use. The plastic bearing housing on the center shaft has a small plastic internal piece that keeps the bearing in place. If you push on one side of your wheel and pull on the other and notice any wobble more than a couple mm's, you might want to consider returning it if you can. It will not get any better and basically means the bearing is turning in the housing and it's only a matter of time before the friction wears the plastic enough and it snaps. The super glue trick will not fix this, the plastic is too thin and will eventually break around the super glue. Mine broke in a perfect matching diameter of the bearing. Of course it was out of warranty and dealing with Logitech left me with a not-so good experience. I wasn't even asking for a new wheel, I actually wanted another G29 but they stated that the wheel was unchanged. After posting a couple questions on another thread, I learned I was not the only one that experienced this. I bought the G27 the first month it came out and never had a problem with the wheel. I was told that the housings on the G27 and the G29 are definitely not 100% the same internal designs.

Dealing with Logitech and then returning a three day old TM T300 after it started grinding is what led me to the Fanatec wheel I have now. Granted, the release of GT Sport did not go well for Fanatec users and it's been a frustrating experience as the updates and native driver support has been slow coming. Even with all that, I never considered sending the wheel back because I know the quality of the product is the reason I bought it. The software support would eventually catch up to where we are today. The wheel is perfect for me now. I've called the service and support line a few times to help with all the adjustments as they've continued updates as well. Without a doubt it's more expensive but I did like so many others have, I waited for a deal and grabbed it right around the time the rumors started with the new DD wheel. I saved about $200 and I have a coupon (have to find it on old email) that I was able to send to a friend.

Overall, it's been a great wheel. I did have an issue a few weeks back during an endurance event but that was corrected with a new driver update from Fanatec. I just wish the wheel was cheaper, maybe with the new Podium series hitting the market they'll run a sale in Nov/Dec.
 
Am hesitant to say .... have never had a bit of difficulty with either the G-27 or
G-29. Only needed to blow out the Pedal potentiometers. Installed a GT-Eye Spring and thought it was much better than Stock.

Will try the Pedal Push at startup and see if there is a difference.
 
Ok now I'm curious.....I still have my old G27 but now I'm running the T300RS GT and the three pedal set up it came with. Should I be switching to my G27 pedals with the T300? Is it a huge difference?
 
I hear the stock T300 pedals are junk so I bought the T3PA Pro pedals and left the stock ones in the box. I hear g27/g29 are just as good. @src_ej6 uses g29 pedals with the T300
 
If anyone comes across Black Friday deals through major stores or online retailers, please share on this thread.
I have trouble understanding the controller guys. It’s a small investment for the enjoyment and/or comparative real life costs. Not bad mouthing, just wanting to see you guys get more out of all the time you’re driving.
If PD ever gets with it, and we can race each other with VR headsets, your heads will explode. The VR experience is more addictive than crack [from what I hear].
 
I'm going to be selling this around the end of Jan. if anyone is interested for around $300.
Replacing it with this:
Edit: That didn't go as planned. Selling the IonRax rig and getting the N1
 

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DublDee
Ok now I'm curious.....I still have my old G27 but now I'm running the T300RS GT and the three pedal set up it came with. Should I be switching to my G27 pedals with the T300? Is it a huge difference?
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I couldn't stand the dead zone on the T300 pedals so I switched back to the G27 pedals. With the T300 pedals I would try to trail brake but find myself not braking at all much sooner than expected because the dead zone is at least 1/4 of the travel at the top of the pedal.
 
60 bucks. Being a fab manager of a fire sprinkler company and knowing how to weld I only paid 30 for the seat and then a few misc metal pieces.
 

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I really feel like after reading all this I seriously need to upgrade I'm still using a t80 wheel (100 bucks) it did only come with a two pedal set up no clutch and my rig I built with some old shelving and an old desktop tower to hold the pedals
 
Jw_wk1010
I really feel like after reading all this I seriously need to upgrade I'm still using a t80 wheel (100 bucks) it did only come with a two pedal set up no clutch and my rig I built with some old shelving and an old desktop tower to hold the pedals
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You sure do, the T80 doesn't even have FFB. The difference you'll feel will be like night and day, only a greater disparity.
 

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