All gold license

  • Thread starter Merkava
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Specific questions yield specific answers.

Broad questions yield broad(and blunt) answers.

The answer is, based on all the information that you have provided, that you are simply not good enough to get all gold on Super License. You should practice more and you will gradually become good enough to clear the tests.
 
Watch the demos, then turn on the replay ghost. The ghost will be the rider from the demo, if you can't keep up with him or pass him you know where you can improve. It's not a great tool (as you might find he pulls away in some corners and you stomp him in others) but it's enough, until you get fast enough and can see your own errors. Then you can know the best line through each section and work on improving your split times.
 
Watch the demos, then turn on the replay ghost. The ghost will be the rider from the demo, if you can't keep up with him or pass him you know where you can improve. It's not a great tool (as you might find he pulls away in some corners and you stomp him in others) but it's enough, until you get fast enough and can see your own errors. Then you can know the best line through each section and work on improving your split times.


The ghost is actually your own best lap, unless you've specifically loaded another fast-lap replay as your ghost. So beating the ghost is usually just an improvement on your best time, not actually a gold run.
 
The ghost is actually your own best lap, unless you've specifically loaded another fast-lap replay as your ghost. So beating the ghost is usually just an improvement on your best time, not actually a gold run.

I'm almost certain that if you come to the license menu, watch the demo in full and activate the ghost it will be the demo rider. I'll test this theory now...

Hmm I guess you're right. I could have sworn I did it before. Hmm, maybe it's the opposite. Run your best times, then watch the demo with that ghost on. You can see where you're losing time that way - I think
 
Finally got all gold. Was quite easy in the end. In fact I found the chicane tests the most annoying. The super licence was quite easy.
 
Maybe I should go back and get all gold. I think I left of with all silver and a handful of gold. Seems like I didn't have the patience for those chicane tests.
 
Maybe I should go back and get all gold. I think I left of with all silver and a handful of gold. Seems like I didn't have the patience for those chicane tests.


I had immense difficulty with the chicane tests, hit a wall at about a tenth shy of gold, had a hundred runs at that time. Then checking the replay, realized I hadn't tucked!!! Ran it with a tuck, beat it the first try by 2 tenths. The speed is pretty high by the end, the aero tuck makes all the difference.
 
I had immense difficulty with the chicane tests, hit a wall at about a tenth shy of gold, had a hundred runs at that time. Then checking the replay, realized I hadn't tucked!!! Ran it with a tuck, beat it the first try by 2 tenths. The speed is pretty high by the end, the aero tuck makes all the difference.

HUMMM....Was I tucking? Its a good thing my foot doesn't reach my own butt if I wasn't tucking. I'll check that out.
 
The trick is to get the rhythm down. I had a hard time getting gold, but I found the best way was to race my ghost.

The launch is also important, lean back and tuck from the start.
 
Racing the ghost is was helped me. The one test that had me livid was the cone slaloms...the ghost would mess me up.
 
All gold has been completed.:sly: I only took me a two nights. I hadn't been playing that much but It was pretty easy to get back in the groove in no time. It also makes me want to put GT4 back in and go for all gold:scared:
 
Just bought the game today, and I must say it is soo much easier to get gold in the licences compared to good old GT4 :embarrassed:

I am going for all gold sometime, and then I will try to step up to the GT4 gold range :|
 
I got the game for christmas and have all the licenses (mixed). It's so much easier than GT4 that I ask myself if it's really Gran Turismo's makers that did the game :odd:

I'm gonna try later to get the licenses in gold :sly:
 
Is there any way to permanently turn off the damn ghost? I hate it, because it's incredibly distracting and always hides the apexes.

Whoever designed the L3 and R3 buttons on the DS2 should be shot - there's no way to use the analog sticks without continually activating and deactivating the push-down buttons.

[edit]

And can someone give me tips on tucking? I mean physically using the controller, as well as in-game effects. The default maps it to L2 button, and I get a Vulcan Nerve Pinch in my left hand trying to steer, balance weight, downshift, and hold the tuck button in all the time. The Novice 7 test (or whatever) at the first stretch of Laguna damn near crippled me to gold it. It took me 10 minutes to work the kinks our of my hand.

I can't think of a better button to map it to. It's obvious that tucking is required 90% of the time if not more. Is there any reason not to just tape the tuck button down and call it a day?
 
That's why I had to go back to the most basic controller (auto-tuck, etc), and eventually give up the game altogether (although not till completing it!) I got carpalled all to hell with this game. GT never bothered me like this, but TT killed me.

No suggestions, just word that you're not alone.
 
Is there any way to permanently turn off the damn ghost? I hate it, because it's incredibly distracting and always hides the apexes.

Whoever designed the L3 and R3 buttons on the DS2 should be shot - there's no way to use the analog sticks without continually activating and deactivating the push-down buttons.

[edit]

And can someone give me tips on tucking? I mean physically using the controller, as well as in-game effects. The default maps it to L2 button, and I get a Vulcan Nerve Pinch in my left hand trying to steer, balance weight, downshift, and hold the tuck button in all the time. The Novice 7 test (or whatever) at the first stretch of Laguna damn near crippled me to gold it. It took me 10 minutes to work the kinks our of my hand.

I can't think of a better button to map it to. It's obvious that tucking is required 90% of the time if not more. Is there any reason not to just tape the tuck button down and call it a day?

RE: prior to your edit.
I rarely click the L3 and R3 buttons without wanting to. It's just a matter of not pressing on the sticks too much. You can move the sticks very easily without needing to push down on them...unless you've worn your DS2 out and maybe that's why you activate them a lot. If that's not the case, the only way I can see that happening to you is you putting more pressure than needed on the sticks.

Re: your edit.
Actually, just the question you asked last. If you tape the tuck button down or hold it down constantly, bad things can and will happen, especially on the more powerful bikes. Your body is just as much a brake as the actual brakes on the bike. Untucking makes the rider create resistance in the air, slowing the bike down much faster than the brakes alone, and we all know a Hayabusa at 200mph needs a LOT of road to slow down. If you're tucked, you're too aerodynamic, and that means you'll have to brake earlier than needed, OR you'll brake at a good point and go flying off the track because you're not slowing fast enough.

The other disadvantage to tucking constantly is stability. You can't lean the bike over as far when tucked, and if you try to, you don't have your knee out or your mass far enough away from the bike to balance it out if it's about to go beyond the tire's contact patch and fall over (ever take a turn tucked in and suddenly see sparks underneath you as the bike starts falling over? If you weren't tucked in that's 99% less likely to happen, and if it does it's a lot easier to straighten yourself out if you're not tucked in.) And the slower you go, the easier it is to fall over when tucked in. In some of the early license tests taping the button down's not a bad idea, but when you're supposed to be riding at a more advanced level, you can't stay tucked in all the time. Tucking's really only there to let you haul when you're acceleratin, 90% of the time in a straight line. You can't always tuck when you get on the throttle, but the first chance you get you do it and make you and the bike as aerodynamic as possible. When it comes to cornering, you should, more often than not, sacrifice the aerodynamics to take the turn as easily as possible. Besides, you don't actually become very effective against the aerodynamics of the bike til you hit 60-80mph, which is when tucking's usually needed, and you can go from 60-80 on most of the bikes in this game in about a second or less. Most sharp corners you'll be just about at that aerodynamic threshold or slightly below it (if you've ever looked at that little boomerang-shaped thing above the tire indicator you'll notice it doesn't go red and start flashing til somewhere between 60 and 80, and then you tuck and it goes slightly darker and then red again, but never flashes after you tuck.), so you'll rarely need to be tucking while taking a corner. As soon as you can on the exit, though, tuck and get a run on the guy ahead of you or distance yourself from anyone chasing you, who won't be tucking til they're nearly upright...silly AI.

Hope that novel I wrote (sorry:guilty: ) helps.
 
That's why I had to go back to the most basic controller (auto-tuck, etc), and eventually give up the game altogether (although not till completing it!) I got carpalled all to hell with this game. GT never bothered me like this, but TT killed me.

No suggestions, just word that you're not alone.
Thanks! I looked around the options screens and couldn't find where you set "auto-tuck". Is that part of the "Standard" control setting? Because that's what I'm running, and he doesn't auto-tuck (at least on the licenses). Does anybody recommend using the semi-pro or pro settings? I like not having to mix F/R braking, even though I know there are obvious advantages to doing so.
I rarely click the L3 and R3 buttons without wanting to. It's just a matter of not pressing on the sticks too much.
I must be a hard controller then, because I've encountered this problem on other games. I really don't like the controller to move a lot, so I hold it low and pretty firmly against my pelvis (no jokes about the rumble feature, now...). I guess I'll just try to reduce my stick pressing.
If you tape the tuck button down or hold it down constantly, bad things can and will happen, especially on the more powerful bikes. Your body is just as much a brake as the actual brakes on the bike.
...
The other disadvantage to tucking constantly is stability. You can't lean the bike over as far when tucked, and if you try to, you don't have your knee out or your mass far enough away from the bike to balance it out if it's about to go beyond the tire's contact patch and fall over.

When it comes to cornering, you should, more often than not, sacrifice the aerodynamics to take the turn as easily as possible.

As soon as you can on the exit, though, tuck and get a run on the guy ahead of you or distance yourself from anyone chasing you, who won't be tucking til they're nearly upright...silly AI.

Hope that novel I wrote (sorry:guilty: ) helps.
No need to apologize - thanks very much for the detailed answer. It's pretty helpful; even if it doesn't solve the cramping issue, it does help to know I don't need constant pressure on the button.

I played a while last night but was unable to gold N-10 (scooter at Autumn Ring Mini). I'm still between 0.5-1.0 second off the pace there. I also ran the missions to win all the biggest bikes the N license qualified me for, plus one of the 125cc 'dirt' bikes. So I've got the Honda, Yammie, and Kawasaki 600ccs
plus the Gixxer 750, and the Yamaha 125 with the fat tires. So far these pursuit missions are pretty easy since you only have to hold the lead for 10 seconds.

I guess next step is the Junior license so I can get the 750-900cc bikes.
 
Thanks! I looked around the options screens and couldn't find where you set "auto-tuck". Is that part of the "Standard" control setting? Because that's what I'm running, and he doesn't auto-tuck (at least on the licenses). Does anybody recommend using the semi-pro or pro settings? I like not having to mix F/R braking, even though I know there are obvious advantages to doing so.

In racing, the standard controller auto-tucks, but the licenses are set how PD wants them set. Must tuck your own damn self. Your only settings chioce, like GT licenses, is auto/manual shift.
 
In racing, the standard controller auto-tucks, but the licenses are set how PD wants them set. Must tuck your own damn self. Your only settings chioce, like GT licenses, is auto/manual shift.
Thanks for the clarification. How about the missions? Does auto-tuck apply there as well?
 
Thanks! I looked around the options screens and couldn't find where you set "auto-tuck". Is that part of the "Standard" control setting? Because that's what I'm running, and he doesn't auto-tuck (at least on the licenses). Does anybody recommend using the semi-pro or pro settings? I like not having to mix F/R braking, even though I know there are obvious advantages to doing so.

I must be a hard controller then, because I've encountered this problem on other games. I really don't like the controller to move a lot, so I hold it low and pretty firmly against my pelvis (no jokes about the rumble feature, now...). I guess I'll just try to reduce my stick pressing.

No need to apologize - thanks very much for the detailed answer. It's pretty helpful; even if it doesn't solve the cramping issue, it does help to know I don't need constant pressure on the button.

I played a while last night but was unable to gold N-10 (scooter at Autumn Ring Mini). I'm still between 0.5-1.0 second off the pace there. I also ran the missions to win all the biggest bikes the N license qualified me for, plus one of the 125cc 'dirt' bikes. So I've got the Honda, Yammie, and Kawasaki 600ccs
plus the Gixxer 750, and the Yamaha 125 with the fat tires. So far these pursuit missions are pretty easy since you only have to hold the lead for 10 seconds.

I guess next step is the Junior license so I can get the 750-900cc bikes.


I recommend getting all the license tests completed before you go bike hunting. It just makes everything available to you from the get go, and helps your riding skill.
 
Thanks for the clarification. How about the missions? Does auto-tuck apply there as well?

If you're talking about the Riding Challenges that you do to earn a new bike, the riding style you choose for racing applies there. And you can wheelie and all that unlike license tests. The license tests are pretty much set so that you don't get into bad habits, like assuming that your rider will tuck himself just because you're over 100mph, and so that you learn to un-tuck when you hit the brakes to use your body as wind resistance instead of assuming it'll be done for you.

But just like getting a driver's license in real life, I'm sure we can all say there's plenty that we do that we weren't allowed to do while in driving school or while testing, and there's plenty of people on the road with us who forgot everything they learned.:ouch: Point being, lol, you just have to remember that license tests don't work the same way as the Standard controller in racing, but Riding Challenges do.
 
Yesterday i tried to get all gold in the last licence.......i mess only the last test with the CBR 1000RR RM on Suzuka for a complete lap.....i cannot catch gold for only half a second
:scared:

Today i MUST get it.I want the last helmets, riding gears and the bike.
 
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