Best Suspension settings for Peugeot 106

[RallyeRon]

Hey GT4 lovers! 👍

I could do with some help with getting the best out of my 106rallye(which i also happen to own one in real life too! )

Ive done pretty much everything to it power-wise apart from putting a turbo on it. Its got 232bhp i think and is quite quick. The problem is, (now i realise by putting 232bhp through a front wheel drive car your not going to get amazing drive and traction around corners) when going around long corners or tight corners, the car judders and skips out, causing me to lose speed around corners(not good).

When the car was pretty much standard(power wise) it had excellent handling characteristics for a FF car, when going around long corners if i was running wide i would just let off a tiny bit and the weight of the car would shift forward, giving me a bit of oversteer.

I need tips on settings for this car(mainly suspension) and advice on how to get rid of the "chattering". I always use Midfield raceway as a test track, and at the moment with 232bhp and the right gear ratio ive done a high 1:25 if i remember correctly.

Any serious experience with this car would be a great help,

Cheers, RallyeRon

 

[Mt. Lynx]

This is a pretty lightweight car, so a soft to moderate suspension should do the trick. Springs somewhere in the region of 5 - 8, bound/rebound like 2 - 4, stabilisers 4 at the very most. Rideheight can be kept between 75 - 95. For better traction in the front, use very little front camber, and just a tick of positive toe in the front. In the rear, you can go for 1.5 camber and -1 or maybe -2 toe.
You have to work on the LSD settings too. I don´t have any advice on numbers, you simply have to experiment. LSD is very dependant on your drivingstyle.

 

[sucahyo]

Agreewith Team666, don't use stiff spring rate for this car. Which part of the car judders and skip out, front or rear, or both?

You can lower the damper too if you wish to keep your current spring rate.

to reduce running wide on long corner, use stabilizer, lower front or higher rear. For FF 1/7 stabilizer sometime not enough ...........

 

[RallyeRon]

Thanks a lot for the comments.

Yeah its the front that skips around corners. I will experiment with soft to moderate settings, have a play around and let you know how i get on.

Do the right settings on a car REALLY make a big difference? I suppose you guys wouldnt go to all that trouble writing out settings guides if they didnt!

If you can lap fairly consistently on a certain track, then how much time could knock off a lap time with good settings compared to default settings?

Does anyone on here specialise in FF car settings?

Thanks

 

[Mt. Lynx]

Thanks a lot for the comments.

Yeah its the front that skips around corners. I will experiment with soft to moderate settings, have a play around and let you know how i get on.

Do the right settings on a car REALLY make a big difference? I suppose you guys wouldnt go to all that trouble writing out settings guides if they didnt!

If you can lap fairly consistently on a certain track, then how much time could knock off a lap time with good settings compared to default settings?

Does anyone on here specialise in FF car settings?

Thanks

Well, you can look at the settings issue in two ways; First: Adapt to the car, instead of adapting the car to you, and second: Adapt the car to your own style, to get that little extra out of it.
I prefer the second choice, but the first can actually be very good if you are learning a car/track before you start adapting the car to your likings. A good setup does indeed make a difference, but all settings are personal, so that particular setup may only make a difference to you! When I post settings for the WIKI, I try to make a "general" setup, suitable to the large mass, not just myself.

If you (like yourself) use for example Midfield as a testbed, I´d say with that particular car, the difference between a good setup and the default one could very well be 3 seconds/lap. The difference will of course be smaller the faster the car.

I don´t in particular specialize on FF cars, but I´m no stranger to them either. I´ll edit in a setup in this post as soon as possible, just for fun!

 

[RallyeRon]

When you talk driving styles its always hard to judge i think because unless you have several friends to always race against then you are just judging yourself, as judging yourself against the perfectly smooth AI is difficult.

I love being (trying to anyway) as smooth as possible, being consistent with lines and carrying lots of corner speed(hence my prob with the chattering) i do drive very much on the front end and let the rear follow, so having the front setup correctly means the difference between me being fast or slow.

Like i said when i get home i will experiment with those settings and see what i get, cheers guys.

BTW you couldnt direct me to a post on how to set up a '95 Skyline GTR Vspec could you? This heavy beast(although ive made it as light as possible) doesnt chatter around bends, it just slides out of bends and has no traction!!!

 

[Mt. Lynx]

The so called "smooth " AI is in fact not very smooth at all. My driving is better than theirs in every aspect (Speed, fuel and tyre economy, consistancy etc.), mainly due to better settings.

You can find all sorts of settings in the WIKI and I think this is for a ´95 Skyline.

I came to think of something concerning your 106: What tyres are you running?

 

[RallyeRon]

sports medium for the 106.

i had a go at the softer setup and TBH i dont think it made much difference. The only thing i felt made a difference was the softer bound and using similar LSD settings to the skyline one you gave me.


The setup for the skyline made it brake really well and made it a bit more stable but it had more understeer mid corner than usual.

 

[Scaff]

With FWD cars I have found that following the general idea that real world touring cars go for works well, particularly if you like a car that leads with the front.

That means a stiff rear, particularly in terms of the stabiliser (anti-roll bars), I've not played around with the 106 in GT4, but I will dig out some Clio 172 settings that will give you a general set of values to start with.

One other thing that is worth a go as well is switching from a FC LSD to a 1-way LSD as some fwd cars suit the fixed 1-way diff better, but to a degree you will struggle to get rid of the 'chatter' after all you are stuffing 200+ bhp through the front tyres of a very light little car, I can get chatter under hard cornering with my (real) Celica and that both less powerful and heavier.

Regards

Scaff

Edited to add - Click the link below for the Clio set-up and write-up (with pictures), and if you have not done so already I would suggest having a look at my tuning guides, which are linked to in my signature.

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showpost.php?p=2036612&postcount=215

 

[RallyeRon]

Cheers Scaff,

I have come to terms with the fact that ANY FF car with loads of power will not be able to put the power down very well around corners, i used to love this Renault Laguna in GT2, 380bhp NA, i remember that car being surprisingly good around corners for a FF, maybe its cos saloon FF cars handle better than FF hatches.

Also in the game i did read that the 1way was more suited to FF cars so maybe il stick with that.

In real life the chatter is fun, getting the front to skip in my Rallye coming off roundabouts! Its amazing how the game has replicated the real handling characteristics of the Rallye though, in real life if you push the 106 rallye you have to watch out for "lift-off oversteer" which on public roads is dangerous, but in the game its an advantge!!!


Scaff- Is that 265bhp maximum BHP? If so then thats pretty impressive from the Rallye- 232bhp from a 8v 1.6 compared to a 16v 2.0??

 

[Scaff]

Cheers Scaff,

I have come to terms with the fact that ANY FF car with loads of power will not be able to put the power down very well around corners, i used to love this Renault Laguna in GT2, 380bhp NA, i remember that car being surprisingly good around corners for a FF, maybe its cos saloon FF cars handle better than FF hatches.

The problem with FF in GT2 is that they are very badly modeled, you can get away with too much with them. GT4 is much, much better in this regard as it forces you to think about the limits of the front tyres grip when cornering and accelerating.

Also in the game i did read that the 1way was more suited to FF cars so maybe il stick with that.

I tend to find it a better bet with most FWD cars.

In real life the chatter is fun, getting the front to skip in my Rallye coming off roundabouts! Its amazing how the game has replicated the real handling characteristics of the Rallye though, in real life if you push the 106 rallye you have to watch out for "lift-off oversteer" which on public roads is dangerous, but in the game its an advantge!!!

If you like a nose in and tail out approach then the Clio style settings should suit what you need well, if I get a chance tonight I will give the 106 a go and try and post up some settings.

👍

Scaff

Edited to add - as far as the Clio maximum bhp goes that was with NA stage 2, I can;t remember off hand if you could get more out with a turbo, but the set-up was for Deep Forest so that was about the most I wanted to put through the front tyres. That said the 106 Rallye is a great little car anyway.


Edited again to add

106 Rallye settings (all Front / Rear) - Tested at Midfield

Spring Rate - 5.8 / 5.2
Ride Height - 110 / 115
Damper
Bound - 2 / 3
Rebound - 3 / 4
Camber - 2.5 / 1.2
Toe - 0 / 3
Stabiliser - 1 / 5

 

[sucahyo]

The problem with FF in GT2 is that they are very badly modeled, you can get away with too much with them. GT4 is much, much better in this regard as it forces you to think about the limits of the front tyres grip when cornering and accelerating.

Agree. But it can be cured, with some tire traction hack we can make an FF feels understeer as usual. Or at least fit simulation tire......

What is your car ride height RallyeRon?