CREDIT GRIND - WTC 600 Tokyo Express - Glitches are Dead.

  • Thread starter Grimm6Jack
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No, the basic rule for the crb is do not hit the other drivers and do not cross any part of the white line in The Hairpin before the long straight. If the AI hits you you are still good but do not touch the AI with the front half of your car
This is not 100% true.

I just finished a tokyo where I took my eyes off for a second and I ended up ramming a AI car going 160mhp from behind and I said well there goes my CRB but nope I got the CRB and its not the only cause where I have hit the Ai hard and still got the CRB.

Overall yes its best to avoid hitting the AI since when you do your pretty much playing russian roulette.
 
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This is not 100% true.

I just finished a tokyo where I took my eyes off for a second a I ended up ramming a AI car going 160mhp from behind and I said well there goes my CRB but nope I got the CRB and its not the only cause where I have hit the Ai hard and still got the CRB.

Overall yes its best to avoid hitting the AI since when you do your pretty much playing russian roulette.
Got lucky, I barely brushed the back bumper of one and found at end of race no CRB, it was the only contact I had all race and it killed the CRB
 
I think if you lap the AI then you can hit them without penalty. I've definitely rammed into AI coming out of the pits while being a lap ahead, even spun both of us out, but still got a CRB.
 
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I think if you lap the AI then you can hit them without penalty. I've definitely rammed into AI coming out of the pits while being a lap ahead, even spun both of us out, but still got a CRB.

nah, i've definitely lost the CRB while lapping the AI for a second time. It's just inconsistent.
 
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Since I don't need credits cause I'm at 100M.

I'm gonna do the next 10 Tokyo as a experiment.

Every race I'm gonna hit the AI car once per race and in different ways and see how many of those 10 times I lost the crb.

I'll save the replay of each hit.:)
 
oh man credits burn a hole in my pocket. I have ALMOST every car in the game now, including all the engine swaps, I just need about 5 million more credits to finish off the full set. (woulda been done a lot sooner, but I was out of the country for that brief period of time where you could dupe roulette tickets, and also I pretty much didn't play for the last 3-4 months).
 
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oh man credits burn a hole in my pocket. I have ALMOST every car in the game now, including all the engine swaps, I just need about 5 million more credits to finish off the full set. (woulda been done a lot sooner, but I was out of the country for that brief period of time where you could dupe roulette tickets, and also I pretty much didn't play for the last 3-4 months).
I have every car in the game but not every color for each car in bc and that's what I'm working on so credits are always needed which is why I grind Tokyo like a mad man.:D

I tell you find it humorous and funny buying 29 Veyron's or 32 Karts.:lol:

But that's my goal to own every color for every car in BC.
 
I tell you this race inconsistently always makes me laugh.:lol:

This mistake of going pass the white line and hitting the red cones will always make you lose the crb.

Gran Turismo® 7_20230731173546.jpg
:lol:
 
Just checked - at GT Auto, change your wheels and make sure you have “offset” set to “wide”. Your PP will not update until you leave the shop.
Hello, Ive set my wheels to wide but my pp stays the same. When I go back into the wheel options the wheels have returned to normal. Any ideas why? PS I did leave the shop.
 
Hello, Ive set my wheels to wide but my pp stays the same. When I go back into the wheel options the wheels have returned to normal. Any ideas why? PS I did leave the shop.
When you re-enter the edit wheels menu, it always defaults to normal, so that’s not unusual.

If your PP isn’t changing to 57x.x, then it means you have some other part wrong. Make sure you have the same ballast and downforce settings exactly, and the correct parts on the car.
 
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When you re-enter the edit wheels menu, it always defaults to normal, so that’s not unusual.

If your PP isn’t changing to 57x.x, then it means you have some other part wrong. Make sure you have the same ballast and downforce settings exactly, and the correct parts on the car.
Will check later and let you know, wasn't sure if another patch had been released.
Cheers
 
Haven't been playing in a long time, but recently I was bored, so I loaded the game up.
Thanks for this, it's exactly what I came here for.

I wasn't able to get your trans settings, but how I have it works fine, it just doesn't get going until 70 mph. If I started at 200 the gears wouldn't work, so I started with 320. Once I did the gears and FD I just left the TS at 320. Tops out at 199 mph without a draft.

Stability is fantastic, even with solid red rear tires, and the fronts never wore at all. Such an easy drive, and easy to avoid the cars to get the CRB. I only ride 2 walls and just drive the rest normal because the car is so stable.

Anyway, I used FM6 and TC3 to do the whole race without a pit. 2:06 average laps, 25 minutes & change, CRB every time, no problem.

Thank you again sir.
 
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My ultimate tokyo grind car has just reach 100,000 Miles.

I bought this car back in may of last year with only 1235 miles and have only used it in this Tokyo grind race.
Now you need to do 101.235 miles so you can brag that you drove it for 100k miles 😁
 
My ultimate tokyo grind car has just reach 100,000 Miles.

I bought this car back in may of last year with only 1235 miles and have only used it in this Tokyo grind race.
View attachment 1318523


Guess is true when some call me crazy for playing and grinding to much.:lol::embarrassed:
That's pretty cool. I was just thinking the other day that I wonder if I have any cars getting up in miles... but I tend to spread my love around :)

Have you noticed anything degrading about the handling? Have you had to replace the engine? I've read about that kind of stuff but never experienced it and always wondered how real it is.

Also, did I miss something? What car is it?
 
That's pretty cool. I was just thinking the other day that I wonder if I have any cars getting up in miles... but I tend to spread my love around :)

Have you noticed anything degrading about the handling? Have you had to replace the engine? I've read about that kind of stuff but never experienced it and always wondered how real it is.

Also, did I miss something? What car is it?
About the engine yes every 5k to 6K I have to do a engine rebuild I wait till the engine gets to bad status.

Overall the engine has lost 8hp from the original number.

About handling when the engine starts going bad the handling also and my total lap times goes up to 23:20 at best.
My average after a engine rebuild is around 22:40.
 
Mind posting the setup? I checked out of glitches since the Tomahawk Tokyo runs/the 4* ticket glitch.
Its this 1 I never made any changes to it and its still able to 22 minute that race.

I recently retire my Suzuki since I found another car that's a little slower but I enjoy driving it more for this race.
 
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Its this 1 I never made any changes to it and its still able to 22 minute that race.

I recently retire my Suzuki since I found another car that's a little slower but I enjoy driving it more for this race.
I Haven't raced Tokyo in quite a while. Might I ask what car you prefer now ?
 
The one that is directly linked to in the post you quoted.
The link in the post is for the Suzuki Escudo. If I'm reading the post right, he has retired the Suzuki and is now using some "other" car. I'm curious to know what the "other" car is.
 
The link in the post is for the Suzuki Escudo. If I'm reading the post right, he has retired the Suzuki and is now using some "other" car. I'm curious to know what the "other" car is.
Im sorry, I did misread your post and didnt see "prefer" but "refer" and somehow constructed it like "which car you refer to".
 
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