Drive Hub Racing Wheel Converter

  • Thread starter VBR
  • 3,356 comments
  • 835,193 views
I’ve been using Drivehub for a few days now, and overall I’m extremely pleased with it.
It felt so good to get my CSR out again. After a bit of tinkering in PCars2 with FB it worked like a dream. This was in Logitech mode.
Fanatec mode on the other hand is a mess. Game takes a lot longer to load and seems somewhat glitchy, constantly freezes when exiting the controls menu forcing a restart. My CSR is on 756 and the drivehub has been updated.
 
I got my Drive Hub a few days ago and got it working with my Fanatec CSW V2 and BMW wheel on Xbox One playing Pcars2. Everything is working fine except for one problem. Everytime I adjust my tune set up and go back in the game the wheel feels real heavy and there isn't any feedback to tire slip or bumps in the road, etc. I have to disconnect the wire from back of the unit that goes to the console and reconnect it again. Then everything works fine until I adjust my tune or my FFB settings. I did a firmware update but that didn't seem to fix it. I also noticed if I turn down my FFB on the wheel from 100 to 80 I get a violent cogging when I turn the wheel anywhere past 2 o'clock or 10 o'clock. Again, it only does this after I adjust tune or FFB settings in game. And again, once I disconnect and re-connect everything goes back to normal Anyone have any idea on how to fix this? I noticed it also has a problem in GT Sport, but instead of the wheel getting heavy it completely goes dead to any input until I disconnect and re-connect.

SOLVED: Hopefully this can help others experiencing the same thing in Pcars 2.
In game FFB settings, the last setting is "menu spring strength". By default it's set to 5. I turned it all the way down to 0 and that fixed my issue.
 
Last edited:
So I’ve just received my DriveHub today to finally be able to play Gran Turismo Sport, so far.... not so good.

My Fanatec CSW V2 with Universal Hub, and V3 pedal are absolutely not being recognized by the DriveHub.

So far

-ReFlash the firmware of my V2 base
-Flashed firmware of the DriveHub to latest version
-Followed the video instructions manual to the multiple times.
- yes the led light is in a figure 8 pattern so it is indeed in “race mode”
- none of the green light on the back of the module are lighting up
- yes I’ve made sure that my PS4 controller is off and stays off through the entire process
- The instructions insist on the wheel to be in PC mode? But apparently this is a default option from factory
- PlayStation has been on and off before plugging the wheel and pedals in
- Drive hub simply seems to not be recognizing anything. But my PC input tests say everything is working fine.

I’m out of ideas, I have to be doing something wrong unless I absolutely received a dud.
 
cdbermudez
So I’ve just received my DriveHub today to finally be able to play Gran Turismo Sport, so far.... not so good.

My Fanatec CSW V2 with Universal Hub, and V3 pedal are absolutely not being recognized by the DriveHub.

So far

-ReFlash the firmware of my V2 base
-Flashed firmware of the DriveHub to latest version
-Followed the video instructions manual to the multiple times.
- yes the led light is in a figure 8 pattern so it is indeed in “race mode”
- none of the green light on the back of the module are lighting up
- yes I’ve made sure that my PS4 controller is off and stays off through the entire process
- The instructions insist on the wheel to be in PC mode? But apparently this is a default option from factory
- PlayStation has been on and off before plugging the wheel and pedals in
- Drive hub simply seems to not be recognizing anything. But my PC input tests say everything is working fine.

I’m out of ideas, I have to be doing something wrong unless I absolutely received a dud.
Click to expand...

Not sure if this will help but is your wheel in PC mode - try cycling thru the modes - it might be defaulting to xbox mode. Start button red for pc mode I think
 
That’s the weird thing I can’t tell what mode I’m in. The manual says to press “SELECT + O” after the calibration is done and i do this immediately afterward, then I’m expecting a small red dot to appear, but I get nothing, I don’t think I’m even getting “PS3 mode” Or “PlayStation mode” whatever,

Like I’ve said my input tests show that button boxes are working so the gear works, but I’m stumped
 
cdbermudez
That’s the weird thing I can’t tell what mode I’m in. The manual says to press “SELECT + O” after the calibration is done and i do this immediately afterward, then I’m expecting a small red dot to appear, but I get nothing, I don’t think I’m even getting “PS3 mode” Or “PlayStation mode” whatever,

Like I’ve said my input tests show that button boxes are working so the gear works, but I’m stumped
Click to expand...
I'm using csw v2 (latest fw) in pc mode with v3 pedals (connected to the base).
I know that newer csw v2 firmwares have a problem with ps3 mode.


For gtsport you have to use logitech mode on drivehub. Is your drivehub updated and in race mode? Check if you connected everything right.
 
I have a problem right now. I'm sure there is a solution somewhere in this thread but hard to find right now. I can't update the firmware. I have downloaded the app, started it and then connected the cable from my PC to the drivehub. I'm holding down the second button just like in the tutorial video, but the app won't recognize the drivehub. Windows 7 is detecting it but can't install or find any driver.

EDIT: I tried it on a Win 10 PC and this time it worked. Looks like there is a problem with my Win 7 PC.
 
Last edited:
RaceFuchs
I have a problem right now. I'm sure there is a solution somewhere in this thread but hard to find right now. I can't update the firmware. I have downloaded the app, started it and then connected the cable from my PC to the drivehub. I'm holding down the second button just like in the tutorial video, but the app won't recognize the drivehub. Windows 7 is detecting it but can't install or find any driver.

EDIT: I tried it on a Win 10 PC and this time it worked. Looks like there is a problem with my Win 7 PC.
Click to expand...


Glad to see that at least you got it, RF.

Hope everything else goes smoothly.
 
If I am not mistaken, Windows 10 was recommended for the Drive Hub's firmware. When I got mine, I had to borrow my wife's laptop to update the firmware. But I did everything for my CSR on my decrepit Windows 7 laptop.

Recently I wanted to see how FM7 felt on the XB1 using the Drive Hub. For the most part, it feels the same. The only difference was, I needed to turn the wheel a little bit more, than when I ran the same race on PC. But everything else was there. The self aligning worked, rumble strips behaved exactly the same, and when I was at the grip limit, I felt it. The only drawback was the LED display didn't show my gears or speed. All I got was an "n". Beyond that, the expierence was the same. Good to see that compared to running natively on PC, the Drive Hub didn't lose a whole lot.
 
I hooked up the drivehub with my g29 and xbox one. The wheel reacts and i can use it like a controller. But for some reason, Forza 6 wont recognize the G29 as a wheel. It acts like a normal controller. I wonder whats wrong here?

EDIT: i guess i found the problem, drivehub wasnt set in race mode. Forza 6 now recognizes G29 as G920 but BOY!! The FFB in this game is kind of a joke, isnt it? I feel no vibration, not even curbs. Is it supposed to be like that?
 
Last edited:
UPDATE:

So I found my problem turned out that windows needed a lonnnng update. You MUST make absolutely sure that your Windows software is updated to the latest and greatest version, or this thing will not work at all.

But now I have a new problem.

I used the drive hub for about 3 minutes in GT Sport and then the DriveHub lost all function, the little green lights on the back of the module are NOT on anymore and instead of a solid 0 showing in the LED screen it went back to the figure 8 mode.

It seemed if I touched the DriveHub it would lose all connection.

What now?
 
Shinu
What kind of usb cables are you using ? They must be high quality
Click to expand...

USB for the PS4 controller is some random piece of crap

USB for the Fanatec wheel is what came with the wheel and pedals

USB for the PlayStation to the module is what came supplied with the DriveHub

Define “high quality” because if you show me a link I will buy it right now
 
Dopplegagger
If I am not mistaken, Windows 10 was recommended for the Drive Hub's firmware. When I got mine, I had to borrow my wife's laptop to update the firmware. But I did everything for my CSR on my decrepit Windows 7 laptop.

Recently I wanted to see how FM7 felt on the XB1 using the Drive Hub. For the most part, it feels the same. The only difference was, I needed to turn the wheel a little bit more, than when I ran the same race on PC. But everything else was there. The self aligning worked, rumble strips behaved exactly the same, and when I was at the grip limit, I felt it. The only drawback was the LED display didn't show my gears or speed. All I got was an "n". Beyond that, the expierence was the same. Good to see that compared to running natively on PC, the Drive Hub didn't lose a whole lot.
Click to expand...


DG may I bounce something off of you?

If given the option would you do the CSW V2.5 with the Drive Hub over the CSL Elite PS4, if you were a primarily X1X and PS4 Pro gamer, with the idea that you would eventually do some PC racing?

Also assuming you were going in with V3 pedals, and lets say the Universal Hub and GT suede rim?

Or is it just silly not to go with the CSL Elite PS4?

Thank you in advance.
 
Last edited:
BuckFly
DG may I bounce something off of you?

If given the option would you do the CSW V2.5 of the CSL Elite PS4, with the Drive Hub, if you were a primarily X1X and PS4 Pro gamer, with the idea that you would eventually do some PC racing?

Also assuming you were going in with V3 pedals, and lets say the Universal Hub and GT suede rim?

Or is it just silly not to go with the CSL Elite PS4?

Thank you in advance.
Click to expand...

I'd go for the CSW setup. With the Drive Hub, console compatibility isn't a primary concern. So I'd be looking to get better equipment.

I'm kind of in this predicament now. My CSR is really showing it's age, and sooner rather than later, I am going to need to replace it. So I am getting things in order to get the CSW, V3, Uhub, CSS bundle. I thought about going with the CSL PS4, but in the end, the detail it's missing and it's construction were the deciding factors against it.
 
cdbermudez
USB for the PS4 controller is some random piece of crap

USB for the Fanatec wheel is what came with the wheel and pedals

USB for the PlayStation to the module is what came supplied with the DriveHub

Define “high quality” because if you show me a link I will buy it right now
Click to expand...

It is probably disconnecting DS4 and after couple of minutes time-outing the security "handshake". Your best bet would be using the cable that came with your ps4. Otherwise I would buy sony or other high bandwidth cable. The shorter, the better in this case.
 
cdbermudez
UPDATE:

So I found my problem turned out that windows needed a lonnnng update. You MUST make absolutely sure that your Windows software is updated to the latest and greatest version, or this thing will not work at all.

But now I have a new problem.

I used the drive hub for about 3 minutes in GT Sport and then the DriveHub lost all function, the little green lights on the back of the module are NOT on anymore and instead of a solid 0 showing in the LED screen it went back to the figure 8 mode.

It seemed if I touched the DriveHub it would lose all connection.

What now?
Click to expand...

I found that what was happening was that the connected controller was going into sleep mode then disconnecting the wheel. If you remove the controller as a Bluetooth device this shouldn’t happen . Or I think if you don’t start up the PS4 with the button on the controller it does the same thing. I have had mine since the launch date of PC2 and it has been awesome (after the first few days of it only working for 5 min at a time!

http://cronusmax.com/forums/showthread.php/175782-Steering-wheel-stops-working
 
Dopplegagger
I'd go for the CSW setup. With the Drive Hub, console compatibility isn't a primary concern. So I'd be looking to get better equipment.

I'm kind of in this predicament now. My CSR is really showing it's age, and sooner rather than later, I am going to need to replace it. So I am getting things in order to get the CSW, V3, Uhub, CSS bundle. I thought about going with the CSL PS4, but in the end, the detail it's missing and it's construction were the deciding factors against it.
Click to expand...


Thanks, Dopplegagger, honestly that was helpful.

I was torn and on this and may be it all depends on the continued compatibility of the Drive Hub and if I get the V2.5 I maybe I'll kicking myself when I turn on GT Sport one day on my wheel does nothing. However, I just feel that as I advance with this I really don't want to make any compromises on equipment. Furthermore, as I have stated in other posts, the noise with the CSL Elite is just going to be an issue at my house, and it bothers me to spend that much money and then have to alter the overall worth of the wheel with the FEI just to counter act the effects.
 
I got my drivehub a few weeks ago and excited to upgrade to Clubsport setup soon.

Question.
Do rumble effects (clubsport pedals) work on GT Sport?
 
rankings18
I got my drivehub a few weeks ago and excited to upgrade to Clubsport setup soon.

Question.
Do rumble effects (clubsport pedals) work on GT Sport?
Click to expand...


rankings, someone with better knowledge can step up, but it was my understanding that on the consoles, either console, they don't. Not even with the Drive Hub.
 
BuckFly
rankings, someone with better knowledge can step up, but it was my understanding that on the consoles, either console, they don't. Not even with the Drive Hub.
Click to expand...
Shinu
They work when supported. GTspot at this moment does not support fanatec natively but Pcars2 for example supports and has those features
Click to expand...
Got it. Thank you guys!
 
RaceFuchs
I hooked up the drivehub with my g29 and xbox one. The wheel reacts and i can use it like a controller. But for some reason, Forza 6 wont recognize the G29 as a wheel. It acts like a normal controller. I wonder whats wrong here?

EDIT: i guess i found the problem, drivehub wasnt set in race mode. Forza 6 now recognizes G29 as G920 but BOY!! The FFB in this game is kind of a joke, isnt it? I feel no vibration, not even curbs. Is it supposed to be like that?
Click to expand...
On Xbox one use a short usb cable from drive hub to console. Is not the drivehub fault, i used to have a usb 6feet ext for my tx and the feedback was awfully weak. Only found out after one day decided to plug directly for no specific reason and noticed significant improvement.

While testing the drivehub with my tx on xbox one i also noticed that a shorter usb cable works perfect while the provided usb cable with the drivehub had the same problem i had with the usb extension
 
UPDATE

First off I want to thank everyone for your insight and support y’all have helped another helpless gamer achieve his dreams.

Everything now works nearly perfectly fine after running to Best Buy for a $20 6ft braided micro usb cable. The moment I plugged the DualShock controller into this bad boy I haven’t had a hiccup yet.

- Make very sure that you have the latest Windows updates, check for them, out them on auto update THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT.

- Update ALL the Firmwares

- Invest in better quality micro usb cable even if it cost you your first born child

- Disconnect your DS4 from Bluetooth

My only complaint is that the force feedback is about as dull as door knob
 
cdbermudez
- Invest in better quality micro usb cable even if it cost you your first born child
Click to expand...

Honestly, i don't know, man. I'm using the Xbox One USB cable and the one provided with the Drivehub. Wheel USB is fixed. Everything works, no need for extra cables.
 
cdbermudez
UPDATE

First off I want to thank everyone for your insight and support y’all have helped another helpless gamer achieve his dreams.

Everything now works nearly perfectly fine after running to Best Buy for a $20 6ft braided micro usb cable. The moment I plugged the DualShock controller into this bad boy I haven’t had a hiccup yet.

- Make very sure that you have the latest Windows updates, check for them, out them on auto update THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT.

- Update ALL the Firmwares

- Invest in better quality micro usb cable even if it cost you your first born child

- Disconnect your DS4 from Bluetooth

My only complaint is that the force feedback is about as dull as door knob
Click to expand...

don't rule out that it may be your DS4 at fault, the micro USB jack on ds4 is a common point of failure, a better cable may just be making up for a bad connection on the inside.
 

Latest Posts

Back