Drive Hub Racing Wheel Converter

  • Thread starter VBR
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Hmm. I had a little wobble here and there depending on setting from time to time before. My set up is slightly different have the v2 and p1. I have been busy and have not pulled out my rig lately. I will try and check tonight.
 
Ok I'm considering buying this, however I need the following answered I hope someone can confirm.

I have a T-500, with the TH8RS, Drive Club VR does NOT support H Pattern shifting with this combo on PS4.
However Drive Club VR does support the T-300 with TH8A H Pattern shifting, because the shifter plugs into the wheel base.

If I get the Drive Hub, will it allow H pattern shifting with Drive Club VR with the T-500 and TH8RS? Can anyone confirm it works?

thanks
 
When you connect the t500 to DriveHub as a wheel in port 2 and with a ds4 in port 1 this DriveHub will show up as a t300.. you can put the shifter in port 3
 
Hi, I find the Drive Hub only in two sites: Cronusmax Shop obviously and collectiveminds. Do you know if are there any cheapest shops or sites where I can find a second hand one please?

Than an other question: I found a Cronusmax Plus second hand with a good price (35 euro). Do you know if they work at the same way? is the only difference that one is plug and play and the other not?
Do you think that if I don't find a good priced Drive Hub is it a good choice to take the Cronusmax Plus with Racing Wheel Edition Setup?
 
with G25 try adding a USB mouse on accessory port, doesn't have to be anything special.. The left and right button let you cycle the MDS menus and the mouse wheel lets you increase/decrease the values...
mouse buttons maps to G29 ^/v
mouse wheel maps to G29 red rotary encoder

Would this also work with a usb hub connected to the accessory port? Looking for a way to connect both the TH8a shifter and a mouse (or keypad) at the same time.
 
you can use a hub in port 2 or 3 to add more ports. I would suggest you use port 3 and leave the wheel in port 2 by itself.

I added support for hubs to port 1 (not yet released), I needed it in order to support the t-GT.
 
GT Sport just arrived in the mail today. I ordered it from Toys-я-Us ( I had gift cards I had to get rid of), they were about a week late from their promised delivery date. I hate to see Toys-я-Us die like this, I was a Toys-я-Us kid.

Anyway... @VBR

My drive hub is not working.

I turn off the controller.

I plug the controller and the G27 wheel into the drive hub.

I plug the Drive Hub into the PS4.

The numeric display on the Wheel Hub just spins and spins

This is a brand new PS4, Only GT Sport has been installed.
 
Anyway... @VBR

My drive hub is not working.

I turn off the controller.

I plug the controller and the G27 wheel into the drive hub.

I plug the Drive Hub into the PS4.

The numeric display on the Wheel Hub just spins and spins

This is a brand new PS4, Only GT Sport has been installed.


Is the PS4 turned on?

Is the G27 plugged in/switched on?

What port is the wheel plugged into?

What port is the controller plugged into?

What cable are you using to connect the DS4 to the Drivehub?


@Podger
 
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VBR
Is the PS4 turned on?

Is the G27 plugged in/switched on?

What port is the wheel plugged into?

What port is the controller plugged into?

What cable are you using to connect the DS4 to the Drivehub?


@Podger
The PS4 in on and showing the Devices screen. That is where I turned off the controller. I can't exit back because the controller is off.

The wheel is working fine, if I plug it into my PS3 it will calibrate.

The controller is plugged into the Controller port, the wheel in the Wheel/Controller port, and nothing is plugged into the accessory port.

I am using the supplied USB cable to connect the Drive Hub to the PS4.

When I plug it in all of the LEDs on the Drive Hub light up for about half a second, then the Rev indicator LEDs go off, the Green LED on top stays on and the LED number displays that it is in Race Mode and nothing else happens. The PS4 controller stays off, the G27 wheel does nothing.

I was able to change Drive Hub from Race Mode to Play Mode and back to Race Mode.
 
I am using the USB cable that came with the Drive Hub.


The Drive Hub only comes with one USB cable, which is for connecting the Drive Hub to the Playstation.

For the third & final time; what cable are you using to connect the DualShock 4 to the Drive Hub?
 
@VBR, I am using a short USB cable. But come to think of it it may be a charging cable that came with an a light.

I wonder if some charging USB cables don't pass data. I will swap all the cables from phones and see if that works.

edit: Thank you, thank you Thank you!

It looks like it is working! Just because it looks like a USB cable doesn't mean it IS a USB cable!
 
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@Chrunch Houston - You're welcome, & I'm glad that it's working for you now. Many problems with Drive Hub turn out to be third party USB cables that people use to connect the DualShock 4 to the Drive Hub. Always best to use the original USB cable that comes with the PS4. Please don't forget to vote in my poll once your happy. All the best.
 
As most of you may know, GT Sport released an update a few days ago giving a profile for Fanatec CSL wheel. I have a CSW V2 and DriveHub. After this update I seem to get clipping when my wheel is almost at lock. Anybody else experiencing this?
 
As most of you may know, GT Sport released an update a few days ago giving a profile for Fanatec CSL wheel. I have a CSW V2 and DriveHub. After this update I seem to get clipping when my wheel is almost at lock. Anybody else experiencing this?

I have the same wheel and weirdness. It’s occurring during under steering situations. I can’t find the post now, but someone with the PS4CSL wheel had the same problem.
 
I have the same wheel and weirdness. It’s occurring during under steering situations. I can’t find the post now, but someone with the PS4CSL wheel had the same problem.

It's not an issue with the update or wheel. What you're feeling is the slip/chatter the front wheels will make under simulated heavy steering load. I have the same set up and noticed what you noticed. If you want to lessen this effect, I found that playing with the Max Torque and Steering Sensitivity settings, under the driving options of the game, alters this effect. I turned it up. For reference, I turned up the stock values to 8. After doing that, the clipping you're referring to lessens significantly. It will take way more steering input in the corners to get the effect to appear.
 
FMW
It's not an issue with the update or wheel. What you're feeling is the slip/chatter the front wheels will make under simulated heavy steering load. I have the same set up and noticed what you noticed. If you want to lessen this effect, I found that playing with the Max Torque and Steering Sensitivity settings, under the driving options of the game, alters this effect. I turned it up. For reference, I turned up the stock values to 8. After doing that, the clipping you're referring to lessens significantly. It will take way more steering input in the corners to get the effect to appear.


Also, the game kept resetting one of those settings to max every time I entered the track the other night.
 
FMW
It's not an issue with the update or wheel. What you're feeling is the slip/chatter the front wheels will make under simulated heavy steering load. I have the same set up and noticed what you noticed. If you want to lessen this effect, I found that playing with the Max Torque and Steering Sensitivity settings, under the driving options of the game, alters this effect. I turned it up. For reference, I turned up the stock values to 8. After doing that, the clipping you're referring to lessens significantly. It will take way more steering input in the corners to get the effect to appear.

It is well beyond that, this rattle is so hard it redirects the car so I can’t keep up with controller users, who have no problem doing the same steering angles at the same speeds. I know it’s not the drive hub because there are a bunch of CSL users with the same complaint.
 
Does anyone know if drivehub can act as a cpx Adapter? T-GT + Fanatec pedals? I do not want to lose the t-Dfb feature in this setup though...
 
It is well beyond that, this rattle is so hard it redirects the car so I can’t keep up with controller users, who have no problem doing the same steering angles at the same speeds. I know it’s not the drive hub because there are a bunch of CSL users with the same complaint.

Hmmm...This may be an area where controller users may ave the upper hand. While I think the native support for Fanatec is good to be finally here, I also think PD has some work to do still on it. They even said so in a Blog Post.
 
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