Drive Hub Racing Wheel Converter

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Yes and yes đź‘Ť
Thrustmaster shifter connected via “Acc” port on drivehub :)
I’ll upgrade to Clubsport shifter eventually :D


That shifter is actually the main reason I have to buy DriveHub, as I have a Fanatece CSL Elite PS4 compatible, and my Thrust Shifter (that I used before with my T500RS) wont work on PS4 with the Fanatec wheel, unless for Dirt4 ... :(
 
@Podger

Honestly, I love the Drive Hub. I love how it has opened up options for me. I was thinking about this while I was doing something else and I had to come here right now and mention it.

Podger, thank you and to all the guys over there. For almost the last year you have all changed simracing for me.

đź‘Ť:cheers::bowdown:
 
Yup, I'm really glad they came out with the Drive Hub. I used CronusMax before, and that worked fine. Then I read about an update that Fanatec did, that didn't work with CronusMax. Which happened to be around the time Drive Hub came on the market. It allowed me to keep my Fanatec eco system, for the PS4, and not switch to a different brand for the PS4, or to the newer CSL Elite wheel base, when my then, CSW 2.0 was working just fine. That eventually died on me, and I had Fanatec put V2.5 guts into it, so now I basically have a CSW 2.5, in the 2.0 shell!
 
Yes and yes đź‘Ť
Thrustmaster shifter connected via “Acc” port on drivehub :)
I’ll upgrade to Clubsport shifter eventually :D
You use fanalogic mode??
How do you rate the Ffb feeling like that? ( on a scale regardind 0 to 10 and compared with the wheel directly connected to Ps4 on blue mode)
 
Yup, I'm really glad they came out with the Drive Hub. I used CronusMax before, and that worked fine. Then I read about an update that Fanatec did, that didn't work with CronusMax. Which happened to be around the time Drive Hub came on the market. It allowed me to keep my Fanatec eco system, for the PS4, and not switch to a different brand for the PS4, or to the newer CSL Elite wheel base, when my then, CSW 2.0 was working just fine. That eventually died on me, and I had Fanatec put V2.5 guts into it, so now I basically have a CSW 2.5, in the 2.0 shell!
That CSW 2.0 bug is a really stupid one, I know the details have been sent to them by a few people, they said its not a priority... DriveHub is fine as it uses PC-Mode... in G27 mode they added their f/w version to the device descriptor as opposed to the original G27 which is v12.39... this causes an issue as the whole Logitech API, which published and open source uses this version string to identity the wheel. All the Logitech wheels before G29 and G920 boot in Driving Force compatibility mode, so they all look identical, apart from the version, so this is used to switch their respective Advanced Modes, as all the commands are not the same its important to have this right...
 
You use fanalogic mode??
How do you rate the Ffb feeling like that? ( on a scale regardind 0 to 10 and compared with the wheel directly connected to Ps4 on blue mode)
Yes. clubsport 2.5 base, v3i pedals, and bmw gt2/formula wheel in Fanalogic “L” mode. With my settings, I quite like it minus the oscillation when letting go of the wheel.
BUT, with the new firmware we now get the “FEI” option in the tuning menu which dramatically reduces understeer chatter when using Fanatec (F) mode. I’ll post my settings later.
 
Yes. clubsport 2.5 base, v3i pedals, and bmw gt2/formula wheel in Fanalogic “L” mode. With my settings, I quite like it minus the oscillation when letting go of the wheel.
BUT, with the new firmware we now get the “FEI” option in the tuning menu which dramatically reduces understeer chatter when using Fanatec (F) mode. I’ll post my settings later.

R18, I didn't have a chance to test your settings, but I did set-up and test my PSVR (embarrassing as I have had it for awhile)...however, that is for commenting on another day.

My wheel rattle, though, will not wait. Damn, I don't know why I only noticed it a bit before, be now even when I am stopped in the middle of the track and I take my hands off to grab something its shaking like Bruce Banner when he starts to get a little aggro!

I'll take it considering I don't want to loose the force feedback, but it is an annoying inconvenience.

Again, hoping to maybe try your settings the next time I'm in GT Sport (V2.5 wheel, V3i pedals, McLaren rim).
 
I understand I am abit late to the party here... but I’m a console player. I own a PS4 Pro with Thrustmaster T150 Pro + TH8A Shifter. Now I’m considering buying a Xbox 1S for $230 new with Forza Horizon 3 and Forza 7. If I buy this drivehub would I be able to use my current wheel set up on Xbox One?
 
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I have the Fanatec CSL Elite for the Xbox1 and don't have a PS4. Is this product worth getting to Play Forza 7 and the Horizon games. Is there a difference using the Drive Hub with those games in the Fanatec mode as opposed to just plugging my wheel into the Xbox1? Do you really get feedback from the game that is not present using the wheel connected directly to the console?
 
I have the Fanatec CSL Elite for the Xbox1 and don't have a PS4. Is this product worth getting to Play Forza 7 and the Horizon games. Is there a difference using the Drive Hub with those games in the Fanatec mode as opposed to just plugging my wheel into the Xbox1? Do you really get feedback from the game that is not present using the wheel connected directly to the console?
Honestly, the FFB in Forza is laughable at best, even with the added effects. Don't bother if that's your only games.
 
Can anyone get drivehub to work with the Forza 7 demo with the Thrustmaster T-GT in PS3/t300 mode?

The accelerator seems to be stuck on full throttle, and in neutral. Steering works, but don't feel any vibration.
 
Can anyone get drivehub to work with the Forza 7 demo with the Thrustmaster T-GT in PS3/t300 mode?

The accelerator seems to be stuck on full throttle, and in neutral. Steering works, but don't feel any vibration.
Have you tried PS4 mode?
 
Can anyone get drivehub to work with the Forza 7 demo with the Thrustmaster T-GT in PS3/t300 mode?

The accelerator seems to be stuck on full throttle, and in neutral. Steering works, but don't feel any vibration.
I tested that setup a few days ago for another user. I was working then. Please make sure you have the latest beta f/w, otherwise it will be detected as a basic t300 which won't work. Im not sure about the accelerator, but the buttons and shifter simply wont work.
 
@Podger 2.0.3 beta enables Mclaren GT3 home button but my drivehub stopped responding multiple times (had to power off/on) multiple times. Reverted to 2.0.2 and it is fine again. Am I the only one?
 
I've been using Drivehub with G25 and GTS for 2 months now and everything works great, except for the throttle/brake linearity. Up until 50% pedal travel it's fine, but then from 50-75% travel the in-game input jumps straight to 100%. So basically the last 25% pedal travel is useless and it makes it impossible to finely modulate brakes without ABS. And yes, I know about the whole "press all the way down to calibrate pedals upon starting" thing.

Is this a known issue to Drivehub, or is this just a limitation with older Logitech wheels? Because in the Lewis Hamilton GT Sport video, you can clearly see his TGT pedal travel input is 1:1 with the in-game bar. It's really not deal breaking, but it does mean I won't be able to be 100% accurate and be as fast as possible. Which is disappointing because everything else is so perfect (I also bought a TGT, but it's still sitting in the box - that's how good everything has been with Drivehub).

Wow that sucks, i wonder if anyone else noticed this?
 
Wow that sucks, i wonder if anyone else noticed this?

Yes. Link is in my signature. It's an issue with GT Sport not Drivehub.

Aliens will have an easier time of modulating the throttle, but mortals like me have a harder time. It's apparently an issue regardless of pedals used.
 
Yes. Link is in my signature. It's an issue with GT Sport not Drivehub.

Aliens will have an easier time of modulating the throttle, but mortals like me have a harder time. It's apparently an issue regardless of pedals used.
I think that's how the gas/brake is programmed in the game unless it's an officially supported wheel. Even the DS4 is just like that.
 
Just curious - is anyone here using a Driving Force GT or Driving Force Pro? I just got the DF GT set up and I'm having an issue with steering input - about 45Âş of left or right input makes the ingame output at maximum lock, is there a way to fix this?

*Edit - I had FFB at first but now after fiddling around that seems to be gone now too, I'm not sure why. The green light is on and the red display is showing the #0.
 
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Wow this page moves fast.

@Scaff It is possible in the US to go to jail because of speeding. If you refuse to sign the ticket they will take you to jail, and if you have a child in the car it will be handed over (separated from you,) to a government agency.

EDIT: wrong thread
 
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Wow this page moves fast.

@Scaff It is possible in the US to go to jail because of speeding. If you refuse to sign the ticket they will take you to jail, and if you have a child in the car it will be handed over (separated from you,) to a government agency.
I think you may have the wrong thread (and that wouldn't be for the speeding offence but for refusing to cooperate).

I've also addressed this already in the correct thread.

Edited to add, actually all signing appears to do is agee to turn up in court, refusing to sign it is just fast tracking you to court.
 
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Wow that sucks, i wonder if anyone else noticed this?

As others have said, it's an issue with the game itself and not Drivehub unfortunately. I switched to Thrustmaster T-GT (the official wheel) and the problem is still present, although not as bad. Using T-GT + G25 pedals (via Ricmotech adapter) the problem is also there (similar to using T-GT pedals in severity). Using G25 + Drivehub seems to be the worst deadzone, but without having tried G29 I can't say if it's due to Logitech or Drivehub. In any case, the brake deadzone is easily fixed by ABS. The throttle issue is more annoying. Offline you can sort of adapt to it, but online in tight races it can sometimes ruin your driving when you're pushing 101%.
 
Quick question for those who are more tech savvy than me. I have a pair of headphones that I’d like to start using for GT Sport. Is there any way to hook them up when you’re using the Drive Hub? I can’t use the controller since it’s hooked up to the DH and off so I don’t see another way.
 
Quick question for those who are more tech savvy than me. I have a pair of headphones that I’d like to start using for GT Sport. Is there any way to hook them up when you’re using the Drive Hub? I can’t use the controller since it’s hooked up to the DH and off so I don’t see another way.

The only way I can think of is to use a second controller.
 
Quick question for those who are more tech savvy than me. I have a pair of headphones that I’d like to start using for GT Sport. Is there any way to hook them up when you’re using the Drive Hub? I can’t use the controller since it’s hooked up to the DH and off so I don’t see another way.

There are lots of different options depending on your setup. You may be able to hook up your headphones to your TV/monitor. If you are using a home theatre system you can hook up the headphones to that. There are USB headphones with mic for the PS4. I have a cheap DAC that I hook up to the optical connection of the ps4. I would get one with volume control. This is the one that I bought: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01N03JX02/?tag=gtplanetca-20
 
@Felix - If you get yourself a Thrustmaster T.RJ12 USB Adapter, you can plug your Thrustmaster 3PA premium pedals into that & then into the Drive Hub's Accessory port. Then, you can plug any compatible wheel (see list in OP) into the wheel port & the Drive Hub will combine them into one & convince the PS4 that it's a supported device.
 
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