Driving Force Pro Problem, big problem

  • Thread starter kamkor
  • 12 comments
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Hi, im playing often gt4p and ive noticed that dfp has a huge bug.. :( ITs something with the pots, in every 5-10 mins they lose their calibration, because of that brakes are sometimes pushed on 20% without my action, or gas cant be pushed to the maximum value(sometimes i can push it only to 30%!!!)... That wheel was so expensive.. And now :(

Anyone has also noticed that problem? :(
 
most of these problems are on the software side, means something's wrong with the game not the wheel.

I have the wheel ever since it came out, i've used it with many games both on ps2 and PC, and works very well. I've even tested it with some of the free privateer simulations available, and works great interms of hardware, all the tweaks and inconsitencies come from the games themselves,

so dont worry, u got a great product thats worth every penny.
 
I don't know, you might have a bad wheel. Yes, there are some bugs when used with original Prologue release, but I hadn't heard the problems being as bad as yours. Major problem was with the steering, but the only bug with the throttle was that it went to 99.6% which isn't anywhere near the probs you are having. I only have the throttle bug with my version, not a single other problem. If you can, try your wheel with other games to see if the same problems happen. If so, take it back.
 
Originally posted by kamkor
Hi, im playing often gt4p and ive noticed that dfp has a huge bug.. :( ITs something with the pots, in every 5-10 mins they lose their calibration, because of that brakes are sometimes pushed on 20% without my action, or gas cant be pushed to the maximum value(sometimes i can push it only to 30%!!!)... That wheel was so expensive.. And now :(

Anyone has also noticed that problem? :(
My wheel have more or less the same faults that you mentioned. I have both the chinese (with bugs) and the korean version (without bugs) of the game so i know that its the wheel that's faulty. The wheel was OK at first even with the chinese version (bare the known bugs), but the problems have become increasingly worse over time. I've even had it loose it's accelerator settings in GT3, giving me only 80% throttle for the last 50 minutes of the 2 hour endurance at Trial Mountain.

Since I have both a european PAL and an asian NTSC PS2, and the wheel have lost settings on both, it's defenetly the wheel.

I called the shop where i bought it, and it sounded like they knew about the problem without admiting it. They told me to return it to be replaced with a new one. You should do the same.
 
I had the Japanese with bugs and that happend to me as well untill I got the Japanese with out bugs. There are no problems now for me.
 
Well it must be the pedals problem, because the same thing happens on PC games( Live for speed -> at least there is calibration lock..). Anyway i can also notice it in kaido battle 1,2, in battle gear 3, gt3 etc.. Ive emailed the shop where ive bought that wheel and im still waiting for
an answer.

So we must admit it, the pedals are CRAPPY as Logitech Momo Racing Pedals Were.... :(
 
Yes, but having said that - I have my wheel since december and I haven't had ANY problems.

About GT3 - yes the game has a bug that sometimes makes your wheel go dead or makes the accellerator get stuck. This happens with all wheels to everyone at some point or another, and it is a problem with the game not the wheel. But kamkor's wheel sounds like it's pretty much out of order. Some of these problems can be fixed by yourself by opening the base, but trading it in is better in terms of warranty. :)
 
Originally posted by Arwin
Yes, but having said that - I have my wheel since december and I haven't had ANY problems.

It depents too on this how much ure using the wheel.. Ive been pushing it to the limit while drifting in lfs:). The wheel is absolutely great and alright but that fu**ing pedals :irked: ....
 
Hi,


I'm having the same problem with my dfp. As well in GT3 as in Colin 4.

Sometimes the wheel work during two hours without any problem, and sometimes no longer than two minutes.

The best way to "solve" problem is to reinitialize the wheel by unplugging the usb then plugging it back in.

I work in a company which sells IT and took contact with Logitech.

They told me to test my wheel on another PS2 and the same problem occured.

Anyway, Logitech did as if it wasn't a known problem for this wheel.

All you can do is give back the wheel to the store where you buyed it and, if in stock, you get a new one directly (the box must be full, nothing missing). That's the quality of the Logitech Warranty.
 
This seems to be a common problem with this wheel. I have experienced it now also, and Flinx the same. However, instead of giving up my wheel to the shop I decided to just open up the wheel base and figure out what the problem was exactly. The base had become pretty dirty on the inside, because the pedals allow dirt to come in. I cleaned this out and tried to put the wheel back together. I managed that although it was tricky, but the problem came back a little later. Then I discovered that the little pins that hold the accellerator movement weren't properly in their sockets anymore. I put them back in, put the wheel back together carefully, and since then I haven't had problems anymore. I think part of the problem is that the cable that sends the data to the wheel had too little leeway so that pressing the pedal and a little bit of dirt could easily pull the sensor out of the pin.

I decided for this approach because I had the wheel since december already without problems, so I attributed them to a kind of wear that would harm a new wheel also. That means that the problem was likely to return anyway, so I decided I'd rather just figure out what the problem was. The old GT Force wheel had similar problems with the power adapter connection, that would eventually get loose and you'd lose force feedback. If I ever go back in there, I will try to make some pictures and also write down how to put the wheel back together, though since I'm not very practical with these things other people probably have less trouble with it than me. :D

I think two things can be done to fix this problem more permanently. One is to add protective cloth that prevents dirt coming into the pedal base through the pedals, and the other is to more solidly fix the sensors to the pedal base. But I haven't looked into that. Otherwise the wheel looks good and every part in the pedal base looks easy to replace. That's almost as important as having equipment that doesn't break down in the first place. :lol:
 
Thanks Arwin! I appreciate that u lost your time to write this help! :D

By the way, now the problems has almost dissapeared.. These pedals are sooo weird :).
 
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