Full car body with motion

  • Thread starter Sim2Go
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Why didn't you opt to use the original pedals instead?
I own a E46 myself and the throttle is just a potmeter, the other two are hydraulic pedals that could be used by adding an hydraulic slave cylinder on the back. You'd only need to delete the brake booster.

i thought of this. car was with auto gearbox and brake pedal was stripped for some reason. got accelerator pedal lying on shelved tho. maybe doing next version some time i'll surelly pay more attention into whats in the car. also will try to use DAC to get turn signal/wiper and other interface working to save time... thank You for direction what to do
 
i thought of this. car was with auto gearbox and brake pedal was stripped for some reason. got accelerator pedal lying on shelved tho. maybe doing next version some time i'll surelly pay more attention into whats in the car. also will try to use DAC to get turn signal/wiper and other interface working to save time... thank You for direction what to do

It is definitely makes sense that you went this way.
The project is very interesting to see advance, although I wouldn't have room for it.

Also, are you going to hook up the blower fan again and try to use it for either manual use or maybe driven by the sim? You know, like the SRS fans.

Definitely an interesting project that I will continue to follow no matter what you will do with it.

All the best!
 
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While there are no possibility to do more serious investment, little things being done -
electrical input for AC motors, safety switches;
better soldering job for hall sensors, their overall positioning near reducers;
overall wiring re-do-positioning, since almost all of them are solved and in place now;
fixed turn signal unit to get in idle after turning corner;
intall-ing blutooth board in wheel to get shifting paddles working;
getting to know can-bus in general to avoid unnecessary work, maybe using DAC or hacking can-bus buttons? any info?
etc...;
 
As seen in photos, there are lot small things to do.


If I ever get to do something similar I definitely consider leaving most of wires and learn something about digital signal and can-bus.
For steering wheel itself used wheel with shifting paddles. They are comfortable, button press is by push or pull on both sides. All left is to find Bluetooth board with battery and fit it inside -

can anyone suggest?
what about Bluetooth mouse - can it be made into it?

I'm also running into problems with USB power - as getting more and more devices in sometimes one of input devices decides to randomly disconnect. Had to put motion board in front panel USB port, wouldn't work with back ports. Any "active power" USB extensions you know?

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Main delay reason -

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Wormgears has quite a backlash and for alternating weight it creates bounding issue. When brakes or acceleration applied and then released for eg. you get additional backwards and forwards bouncing. I hope changing wormgear to planetary reducer would at least smooth out the problem, altho xsimulator guys tells i should have done actuator for pitch instead
 
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Winter, outside humidity gets to the metal pretty fast, got to clean, oil up and cover frame better for upcoming winter.
Dig and cemented platform under the tales as a anchor point.

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Collected most of car parts, need to get trunk lights connected.

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Tought to put high voltage box inside of a car, but somewhy does not seem to be safe. Got to think about its placement if in future whole car would go on trailer of some sort
 
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Redone yaw axis stabilizer. Due shifting weight (one person sitting in and another one joins) upperframe pull or push down caused one stabilizer wheel to work extra while another was not spinning at all. Having adjustable wheel height would help motor not to work as much. Main weight shift compensation is done by gas struts.A this could be done in various ways, but this seemed to be easiest. Fringers crossed until real tests to see results
 
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Made a case for hall sensor. Used CNC equipment (gt2 belt and gears).

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To cut plastic is quicker and cheaper also harder material. Paid 8 euros for cutouts.
 
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Coming to conclusion for using 4 34" monitors as display instead of two projectors. Two front monitors would create one stripe in the middle, but other two would blend into front window frame. Also this way would keep mirrors in their place, which also would be very hard to achieve with projection. Another benefit is no need to cover most of display to get decent brightness, instead ambient lights (arduino nano) over monitors positioned to illuminate car interior would be possible.

Do you think projectors are better idea having in mind this project would travel on trailer to see places? Why?

For now it would be neat to get proper lenght cables
 
My favorite game.👍
One of the top of mine as well! :) perfect for testing due small install size, loads of functions, IMO easiest to learn/get into sim-driving-racing overall.
Tho Gran Turismo was the first game to get interested into :) I wonder capabilities of PCSX2 with Gran Turismo 3/4. Seen custom resolutions, motion data as well :)
 
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Many undocumented demoliton and rebuilding work put in preparing better place for thing to stay. Still humid and will be worse in winter, but less dust, dirt, warmer cave overall. Cemented in anchor points, need to deck the boat and level it evenly for upcoming work
 
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Before doing anything stupid, like buying unknown reducer, lets connect motion system again.
I have a feeling results will be better due new wheels doing much better job, altho, this wormgear already seem to have damaged teeth
due its vertical placing and not making full circle causing no lubrication between teeth. In future, changing this into helical bevel (maybe???) one should think about filling boy up with more oil and installing oil "bleeder" ("breather?" lost in translation).



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Got a little board for USB hub and few cables with coils to hopefully reduce EMI. When motion and steering wheel motors are turned on, even a radio standing near simulator can't catch any radio station. This issue also requires deeper inspection.
Not a cable guy, but this seems more managable!:)



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New place allows to get better shots :) One should think about better lights setup, to place room lights right to get most of DIY ambient screen lights.

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Still need to put reverse gear lights in trunk hood.

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Still a mess with cables. Can't wait for them to come all togerther. USB hub seems so good so far, very liking disconnect buttons for each input, saves cable and time.

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Still filling box with instruments. Good feeling to have one cable to plug everything in one push. 3phase 16A

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Had a first run in whole year or so, still without motion tho. OSW is doing well with regular car wheel weight, spinning fast back while drifing is so satisfying. Since himidity got my pc mb to die, will try to connect two monitors into into laptop, to get most of it for now :)
 
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Might even run away with same reducer for pitch. Needs to work on proper lever system with bearings to get rid of most inaccuracies. If final results wont satisfy, at least figured out what type reducer is needed (cycloidal). Will update soon with more work done.

This is 40% motor speed.


 
Kinda messy things, but working on them.

This setup is best what I found to experience for now.

VFD settings -

Loaded 50.hz preset
Entered rpm of motor
Acc/Dcc 0.1s

AMC1280 -


Min speed 14
Motor max speed 80% Ramping 5ms
Feedback sensor 10% oversample 1


Motor 1 (pitch-surge)
P/I/D 30/0/0

Motor 2 (sway)
P/I/D 60/0/0

-video no longer available-

This is going downhill and shifting to uphill run.

SimTools -
axis1a Pitch 100% Surge60% limiting 35%
axis2a Sway 100% limiting 50%

Obvious problems -

Wiring
Replace testing bearings/lever/ to tighter couplings, diminish inaccuracies. Those look laughable, but they seem not to have any loosenings.
Getting rid of EMI for brake pedal, still after plugging ac motors pedal requires like 3 times harder press on it to actually brake at highest sensitivity

After fixing frame overall to actually see back lashing problem, because before mostly it was bad lever placing to axis.
If final back lashing won't be any decent, suggested-fastest fix would be cycloidal motor reducer, which is expensive (`~1.6k e) but made for this kinda impacts.

Both motors after not using them for sometime are half their speed when turned on again. When I start to spin them full circles at 50hz
it makes funny noises which stops after few minutes. During this motors are experiencing heavier loads until it gets to actual reduction ratio.
This was present when I got them and run them first time. Can this be problem of them not getting enough work? If not Im thinking of detachable or some kind
of hall sensor placement to get easy full spins before running.

Thus far with all problems its really nice experience, adds a little bit of drama to the racing.

I'll update with more problems fixed.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
 
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Hi probuff you asked for sensor details from my youtube video.. These are the digital SSI sensors that should solve your emi feedback issues.

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/mechanical-rotary-encoders/1894750/

I also have a PDF i can share (not sure how to attach here) if you give me an email or something.
Depending on the age of you AMC you will also need a small add on PCB to help link them to the AMC sensor inputs. I think new models support these out of the box.

As mentioned im in the process of breaking my sim down as dont have time for the hobby for the forseable future.

Happy to to do a deal for the sensors, PCB, and interconnects if your interested.
 
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