Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Extreme Wheel

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BWX
Anyways this is what my CSL Elite V2 pedals are doing now when hooked up to GT DD Extreme in GT7.
I guess load cell is failing, it's falling out of calibration, but also there's an invisible phantom glitch every few seconds that resets the upper brake deadzone limit when in calibration screen in GT7. I wonder if anyone else has that glitch where it resets the upper calibration. Might be pedals, might be FW/ wheel.. not sure. 🤷‍♂️


This may or may not be news to you, but when in calibration mode, if you hold the brake pressure at a certain point for something like 3 or 4 seconds the pedals will set that as the new maximum (100%) pressure point.
That may be why your upper dead zone keeps changing?
 
@xDriver69x

Fair enough.

This is the ddX in game 10/8
100/100/100
ndp 29.
The rest, zero.

Compared to prepatch this is actually quite decent. Prior to this the oscillations were stronger and occupied a wider radius. As long as the wheel is turning it behaves. Its only on the straights once the vehicle is moving fast that it decides to get squirrelly. Im of the mind that this is created by road textures coming in without (enough) dampening and as previously stated, I haven’t even plugged the base into a pc, let alone change anything. So kinda thinking this is PD. But hey, firmware for fanatec has been a wild ride this year. Maybe its both of them.

Fortunately, since Thursday, gr3 and below are pretty good. Gr1 and the prototypes however are still a bit annoying.

 
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A question to all of you guys on a DD+.
After a few days of testing and accommodating to the new FFB / ABS Physics, have you noticed the change of ABS FFB Feedback?
One very obvious effect is missing.
The Trailbraking FFB effect which was very obvious when you hit it spot on.
I don't know how to specifically describe it but there was this feel to the brakes when you perfectly nailed the revs according to the amount of brake pressure while releasing the brakes on turn in.
It's gone.
Completely.
It felt like a slight hum/buzz which perfectly matched the rotational speed the car was doing.
Very noticeable on Mr Cars.
I don't know if it's down to the physics change but It feels as if a lot of direct force effects related to the suspension/ braking have been muted.
The cars all feel very stable and only in the very latest moments the brakes seem to produce an effect to the FFB, especially the understeer rattle.
It's got shifted towards the very last 10%, where before it could be triggered way earlier.
Therefore everything feels as if it has been accelerated in terms of driving dynamics.

But anyway it feels good.
Not as good as before because of some missing effects but as always it's just a matter of getting used to the new behavior.
The FFB still feels very good and direct but because of the muted / cut out ABS interference, braking has become more of a muscle memory thing rather then a FFB induced perception / reaction.

@Kriptical
That amount of oscillating you get in your Wheel is nutz 😅
I was like OK, a few more minutes and his wrists are mud 😁
 
A question to all of you guys on a DD+.
After a few days of testing and accommodating to the new FFB / ABS Physics, have you noticed the change of ABS FFB Feedback?
One very obvious effect is missing.
The Trailbraking FFB effect which was very obvious when you hit it spot on.
I don't know how to specifically describe it but there was this feel to the brakes when you perfectly nailed the revs according to the amount of brake pressure while releasing the brakes on turn in.
It's gone.
Completely.
It felt like a slight hum/buzz which perfectly matched the rotational speed the car was doing.
Very noticeable on Mr Cars.
I don't know if it's down to the physics change but It feels as if a lot of direct force effects related to the suspension/ braking have been muted.
The cars all feel very stable and only in the very latest moments the brakes seem to produce an effect to the FFB, especially the understeer rattle.
It's got shifted towards the very last 10%, where before it could be triggered way earlier.
Therefore everything feels as if it has been accelerated in terms of driving dynamics.

But anyway it feels good.
Not as good as before because of some missing effects but as always it's just a matter of getting used to the new behavior.
The FFB still feels very good and direct but because of the muted / cut out ABS interference, braking has become more of a muscle memory thing rather then a FFB induced perception / reaction.

@Kriptical
That amount of oscillating you get in your Wheel is nutz 😅
I was like OK, a few more minutes and his wrists are mud 😁


Yeah. That little shimmy shake/chatter when you were on the edge is gone. Which is disappointing as i liked to find time dancing on the edge of that line. Without its guidance i kinda find kyself stomping a bit more. Which isn’t faster. Switched abs off this morning to remind my left foot where the line is, then returned it to weak, seems to help. I do like the feeling of abs off. Just don’t think i could manage other peoples code browns during a race without stomping too hard. Maybe someday that control will build in the left foot.

It may have been more difficult before. But in my experience when you stand on the brakes, like.. code brown level standing on em, modern cars included..things get a little funny. Now thats gone.

As you said though, the rest is pretty good and has been a lot of fun so far. Oscillating prototypes and gr1’s aside and all 😝
 
Yeah. That little shimmy shake/chatter when you were on the edge is gone. Which is disappointing as i liked to find time dancing on the edge of that line. Without its guidance i kinda find kyself stomping a bit more. Which isn’t faster. Switched abs off this morning to remind my left foot where the line is, then returned it to weak, seems to help. I do like the feeling of abs off. Just don’t think i could manage other peoples code browns during a race without stomping too hard. Maybe someday that control will build in the left foot.

It may have been more difficult before. But in my experience when you stand on the brakes, like.. code brown level standing on em, modern cars included..things get a little funny. Now thats gone.

As you said though, the rest is pretty good and has been a lot of fun so far. Oscillating prototypes and gr1’s aside and all 😝
Yeah doing the Barney Rubbleheimer stomp on the brakes heels to the tarmac definitely produces less wiggle which indeed takes away fine brake modulation 😅

Hopefully your DD+ will reach its first Birthday.
You are definitely giving it some hard time, but hey German engineering never fails huh 😁
 
Yeah doing the Barney Rubbleheimer stomp on the brakes heels to the tarmac definitely produces less wiggle which indeed takes away fine brake modulation 😅

Hopefully your DD+ will reach its first Birthday.
You are definitely giving it some hard time, but hey German engineering never fails huh 😁


Hah. If its going to die, I’d prefer it do it within warranty 😝. I was at around 7/8 ffb until relatively recently…but once they put out the physics patch i spent some time with regular cars i was familiar with and this felt pretty good. Figure i don’t know race cars, so do something you know and let the chips fall where they may on the other cars. I’ll just kind of continue avoiding gr1 and prototypes.
 
Hah. If its going to die, I’d prefer it do it within warranty 😝. I was at around 7/8 ffb until relatively recently…but once they put out the physics patch i spent some time with regular cars i was familiar with and this felt pretty good. Figure i don’t know race cars, so do something you know and let the chips fall where they may on the other cars. I’ll just kind of continue avoiding gr1 and prototypes.
Gr1s and high downforce cars in general are a tough nut to crack in terms of getting the Oscillations to a reasonable level if not eliminating them at all.
From my testings, I managed to eliminate them almost completely by doing the following.
It all depends on a few variables though.
The higher the in game sensitivity the more of NDP has to be added and the more the FOR as well as the FEI settings have to be adjusted accordingly.
The in game torque should be set first though as well as the Wheelbase max FFB.
My starting point is always
Wheelbase 100%
In game torque 5
In game sensitivity 1
NDP 50
NFR 5
INT 4
FOR as low as necessary
FEI as low as possible
The higher you start pushing the in game torque the higher the NDP has to be adjusted
It's a double sided sword though as you're going to loose some fine granular detail as well as some maximum Torque , but on the other side you'll be awarded with some extremely smooth and weighty driving sensation.
The cars will feel very planted and connected to the surface.
Weight transfers will feel very slow and not snappy.
The Suspension as well as road effects will be very muted but that's how it basically feels like in real life too.
The Wheel itself will only give you the basic feedback like in real life too.
Oversteer
Undeersteer
Weightiness
That is actually one thing I really enjoy and appreciate about the DD+.
You can basically set it up perfectly to your own personal preferences.

Therefore the FFB in general is a very subjective matter.
Some prefer them gamey and unrealistic, others try to replicate the real world sensations the best as possible.
At the end of the day, what matters is the enjoyment and the fun factor.
Each to their own 😁
 
This may or may not be news to you, but when in calibration mode, if you hold the brake pressure at a certain point for something like 3 or 4 seconds the pedals will set that as the new maximum (100%) pressure point.
That may be why your upper dead zone keeps changing?
That's the thing, it was doing that in the GT7 calibration screen with nothing touching the brake pedal. I never remember this happening before.

And it would always go up 10%... well, 10% of 100, not 10% of the remainder of travel after setting lower deadzone, even if I had the lower deadzone at 80%.

Might be more than one thing going on as it was also calibrated so lower level deadzone at 0% would work for a while, then when I went back into calibration setup on GT7 the brake would be registering an input, maybe 0.1 to 2% fluctuating. So it doesn't hold the calibration either. But I did get it to work fine setting the lower deadzone to 2% in GT7 so that's good. I guess most games will allow deadzone adjustment so it should be ok for a while unless it gets worse.

I might just buy a new load cell, or maybe they're still under warranty.

edit- Just thought about it some more... Maybe it's doing that because even though I set lower dead-zone to 2%, it's still seeing that input under 2% and responding to it.
 
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Breaking FFB probably did change and i might not be comfortable with it yet.
But it is worth to mention that, after update my dead zones on pedals seemed to be modified to ca. 1% from which I had it set on (I can miremember to which vale it changed).

Here aslo interestingly I used to drive at ca. 2-5% being set at times of G29, and quite recently tested <0,5% on CSL pedals with good result and positive feeling. Logitech had both less resolution plus potentiometer in gas pedal was very sensitive to dust contamination leading to iritating signal noices and glimpsing inputs. I ended with DIY bellows on the pedal made of kitchen/breakfast plastic bags.

Do you have any experience if dust is a problem also to Fanatec pedals/sensors?
 
I investigated further and took the brake elastomer stack out and cleaned all the dust, etc.. Noticed a little piece of tape or something in between where the pedal hinge and pedal plate come close to touching. It looked like it was stuck to the underside of the pedal footrest plate and was working its way in between the pedal and the footrest. just a tiny little piece of something.. Got it all put back together and re-calibrated, and on PC it was fine. Tested it out in Wreckfest on PC and all good.

Going to test GT7 soon, if it does the same thing in GT7 then I don't know what's going on. Hopefully that fixed it, hopefully it was that little piece of tape or whatever that was messing up the calibration in GT7. 🤷‍♂️
 

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I investigated further and took the brake elastomer stack out and cleaned all the dust, etc.. Noticed a little piece of tape or something in between where the pedal hinge and pedal plate come close to touching. It looked like it was stuck to the underside of the pedal footrest plate and was working its way in between the pedal and the footrest. just a tiny little piece of something.. Got it all put back together and re-calibrated, and on PC it was fine. Tested it out in Wreckfest on PC and all good.

Going to test GT7 soon, if it does the same thing in GT7 then I don't know what's going on. Hopefully that fixed it, hopefully it was that little piece of tape or whatever that was messing up the calibration in GT7. 🤷‍♂️

This "tape" is there to prevent the pedal's body hitting the heelrest. To avoid metallic sounds when releasing the pedal. Like a bump stop. All three pedals have it.

When calibrating pedals you should always have some deadzone.

If you have ghost inputs, check for emi, grounding the rig, or a faulty - broken rj cable .

Putting a couple of ferrite cores about 5cm before the cable's ends helps in most cases.

I had some ghost input with my old wheelbase, the one with disconnections. With the new exchanged one i have nothing. I tried everything and i couldn't find any solution. Probably a lot of emi.

Try the pedals through usb on your pc and try replicate the problem. Before that disconnect the small rj cable that goes from the loadcell to the board box and connect it back again, to let any emi go away. If on your pc everything works perfect then might be anything new additions you made on your set up, any cable, or some new carpet under the rig. Some interference in general.
 
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My settings felt off since the latest update. I wondered if PD had spent some effort on DD setup for the tokyo series where they used the DD+ this time so I spent some time w the AS auto setup slot on the wheel. I was pretty impressed - felt really good for a range of cars both street and race

Here’s what gets set - these do change from what’s set when the wheel powers on. GT does ID the base as the extreme so I’m pretty sure they are being intentional w this. Figured the Torque 5/ Sens 5 was the likely setting in game

FFB 60
FUL 50 - default from Fanatec - not used yet in GT
NDP 30
NFR 5
NIN OFF
INT 3
FEI 100
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 100
BLI OFF - if you have CSP v3
SHO ON
BRF 50

BLI and BRF reset if you try and change them in AS so load the settings into a tuning slot to keep them

I later lowered NDP to 25, set in game sens at 7 for a bit tighter feel
 
I wonder if the organizers for these "official" events allow the participants to tune the Fanatec Tuning Menu settings??
 
Driver pkg 462 posted on Fanatec site. Just incorporates the two patches rolled out recently for the DD+ which address disconnects. I’ve already been running these w no issues

Interestingly FW versions for the Bentley wheel are listed in the changelog but no other mention elsewhere on the site
 
Driver pkg 462 posted on Fanatec site. Just incorporates the two patches rolled out recently for the DD+ which address disconnects. I’ve already been running these w no issues

Interestingly FW versions for the Bentley wheel are listed in the changelog but no other mention elsewhere on the site
I noticed that this morning. I'm scared to death about loading any new firmware into my replacement DD+ base. The replacement base that Fanatec sent me came loaded with 455 (Base 2.0.1.4) with the WQR Hotfix (1.1.0.3) and its been rock solid and butter smooth. No coil whine. No random disconnects whatsoever. 462 seems to have the WQR Hotfix as the official firmware for that and the base is now on 2.2.3.7
Other than "allegedly" solving the disconnect issues with some bases, I wonder what if any quality of life changes the new base firmware provide.
 
FMW
Other than "allegedly" solving the disconnect issues with some bases, I wonder what if any quality of life changes the new base firmware provide.

My DD+ worked fine on the 455 FW as well and I stayed w it as it was fine, even maybe slightly better than subsequent updates which my base handled no problem. So yes no immediate QOL unless you are using the base CSL pedal set - the only other fix

However I have a PBME setup which has issues - X and square key sends both commands each press, analog stick has reversed axis rendering it a bit compromised. That is in the base FW not the wheel FW so any fix coming in future will be using this or later FW - figured i’d just get on w it

If you are good now stay there - the always valid Fanatec FW advice
 
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Gr1s and high downforce cars in general are a tough nut to crack in terms of getting the Oscillations to a reasonable level if not eliminating them at all.
From my testings, I managed to eliminate them almost completely by doing the following.
It all depends on a few variables though.
The higher the in game sensitivity the more of NDP has to be added and the more the FOR as well as the FEI settings have to be adjusted accordingly.
The in game torque should be set first though as well as the Wheelbase max FFB.
My starting point is always
Wheelbase 100%
In game torque 5
In game sensitivity 1
NDP 50
NFR 5
INT 4
FOR as low as necessary
FEI as low as possible
The higher you start pushing the in game torque the higher the NDP has to be adjusted
It's a double sided sword though as you're going to loose some fine granular detail as well as some maximum Torque , but on the other side you'll be awarded with some extremely smooth and weighty driving sensation.
The cars will feel very planted and connected to the surface.
Weight transfers will feel very slow and not snappy.
The Suspension as well as road effects will be very muted but that's how it basically feels like in real life too.
The Wheel itself will only give you the basic feedback like in real life too.
Oversteer
Undeersteer
Weightiness
That is actually one thing I really enjoy and appreciate about the DD+.
You can basically set it up perfectly to your own personal preferences.

Therefore the FFB in general is a very subjective matter.
Some prefer them gamey and unrealistic, others try to replicate the real world sensations the best as possible.
At the end of the day, what matters is the enjoyment and the fun factor.
Each to their own 😁


Speaking with you is always an interesting rabbit hole.

So, the next day i cranked up ndp to 47 for funsies. The oscillating greatly subsided and the ability to feel the grip of the tires as they gained and lost grip really increased. Slides which would have completely looped me at ndp25 were now surfable and recoverable almost all of the time. Whatever it does, allowed my hands and feet, to bypass my brain, and fix things on the fly. Unfortunately, i noticed that the slides were happening more and more. Instead of hitting the edge of grip as i entered a corner, now it had become…challenging..to not scrub the tires right through the edge with the rear stepping out more often than not. Which, not gonna lie..was pretty fun…however slow. Additionally, it was interesting to notice the amount of weight, upping the ndp, added to the wheel. It made finding grip when tossing the car into corners tough. Over the past few days i dropped it a little at a time until arriving at the o so dramatic change of ndp30. Think i stopped yoking it so much around ndp 36. Its just so much easier to ride that line when your exiting a corner and applying gas with the whole ndp around 29-31. This becomes one of those, wish i could have it all scenarios with the ..i dunno..call them tire sensations. Almost as if i could feel the rubber bending as it scrubbed and reacquired grip. It really was great around ndp 45-50, but its a racing game sticking the corners and really feeling the weight transfer and momentum conveyed with tire directioality clear(i guess?) wins out in the end. Interestingly, just a point or two of ndp, for whatever reason, seemed to fill in that little bit of info which has made recoveries much better. Its fascinating how a couple ticks of something like ndp can affect the experience. I would have completely different opinions of cars and handling if ndp were left up high. Fun stuff. As it is now, it matters much less what im driving, as i can feel my way through.

Ps: its kinda exciting to see a driver release from fana. Not that i’d touch it with a 10ft pole, but if it works out we’re one step closer to true force…fun..fun..
 
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My CSL Elite V2 brake pedal is working fine in GT7 after removing stray piece of packing tape or whatever it was (about the size of a grain of rice), and general maintenance. So I'm glad it wasn't a FW bug or EMI or anything like that. I'll probably update to new 462 driver and FW on GT DD X just to see if I can notice any changes.


---------------------
Maurice Böschen answering question on whether or not you need to upgrade FW on Fanatec forums from a guy who plays mainly GT7 on PS5:

"The development will move forward from 2.2.3.7 so even though you dont have to update right now you will have to update the firmware at some point in the future anyway to get future products working with the base so at some point you will have no other Choice anyway in the future. But when everything is working right now then there is no real immediate need to update."
---------------------


I wonder if he's talking about hardware or software? Or both? I'm going to assume he was talking about the immanent release of Fullforce on GT7, and their new super affordable and backwards compatible active FFB brake pedal. (I can dream 😅)

They also mentioned that a newer driver is going to be released soon in another post. I'm actually happy without Fullforce but I'm curious to see how it feels in game, it's very interesting in the demo.
 
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BWX
I wonder if he's talking about hardware or software? Or both? I'm going to assume he was talking about the immanent release of Fullforce on GT7, and their new super affordable and backwards compatible active FFB brake pedal. (I can dream 😅)

They also mentioned that a newer driver is going to be released soon in another post. I'm actually happy without Fullforce but I'm curious to see how it feels in game, it's very interesting in the demo.
Full Force is already in the current 455 and on drivers. PD just needs to use the latest SDK for it to be enabled in GT7. The pending driver release is supposed to address bugs w current products such as the BME and BMR now that they think they’ve solved DD disconnects

Future HW products - well the 462 changelog lists the Bentley FW so that must finally be near release - active pedals yes please
 
^ I do wonder when PD finally release fullforce if it will require updating to latest driver and FW though, even though technically it's in the SDK already.
 
So. Its been 24hrs ish since the new drivers dropped and fanatecs boards aren’t on fire. Thats a positive!
Good thing I'm on vacation for another two weeks so by the time I'm back I'll hopefully know if it still causes issues 😅
That said, I also received a replacement unit not too long ago after they exchanged mine to debug the disconnects. I haven't played much since but I don't think that the new base has the new issues, but due to the lack of playtime I don't know for sure.
 
My third DD+ base is on its way to me. I hope third time’s the charm. My first DD+ had disconnection issues with 456 and 457 so Marcel asked if I could send it to them to evaluate. The replacement they sent had coil whine and disconnection issues then bricked itself after 2 months. I had to coordinate with Marcel again in Germany because this was a replacement base and I couldn’t RMA it in the US due to serial number not matching the one in my account. After 6 1/2 weeks they finally sent another replacement. I’m so glad Marcel is still there and was able to help me out.
 
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My third DD+ base arrived today. It came with 2.0.1.4 (455) for the base and 1.1.0.3 for the WQR. This time the base serial number matched the serial number on the box (first replacement base was mismatched). After a quick test in GT7 I went ahead and updated it to 462. I was only able to do an hour in GT7 but so far this base looks promising. There’s no coil whine, and the handbrake input on the calibration screen is stable and isn’t jumping like in my previous base. Using PirovacBoy’s settings, it also doesn’t do the shaking when the wheel is centered - not sure if it has something to do with the latest GT7 update or the 462 firmware but my previous two bases had the shaking. After 6 1/2 weeks of being away, WOW! I had a big smile the moment entered the first turn and that smile lasted throughout the race :)
 
My third DD+ base arrived today. It came with 2.0.1.4 (455) for the base and 1.1.0.3 for the WQR. This time the base serial number matched the serial number on the box (first replacement base was mismatched). After a quick test in GT7 I went ahead and updated it to 462. I was only able to do an hour in GT7 but so far this base looks promising. There’s no coil whine, and the handbrake input on the calibration screen is stable and isn’t jumping like in my previous base. Using PirovacBoy’s settings, it also doesn’t do the shaking when the wheel is centered - not sure if it has something to do with the latest GT7 update or the 462 firmware but my previous two bases had the shaking. After 6 1/2 weeks of being away, WOW! I had a big smile the moment entered the first turn and that smile lasted throughout the race :)
Very happy for you that you finally seem to have been gifted with the product you will finally be able to enjoy how it's meant to be.
What a hiatus.
My replacement Wheelbase which I got on May 12th is still rocking.
No issues so far absolutely flawless.
I didn't update anything and kept everything out of the box as it was.

So yeah good luck my man, enjoy your toy 👍😁
 
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