Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro

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Incase anyone's curious, wheel feels great when side-mounted in a rig.

Trak Racer's side-mounting system is compatible and the DD Pro already has slots for you to hook into.

2.jpg
 
Greycap
The joke is entirely on you and Fanatec for not understanding how PD made the force feedback. Unlike everyone else they actually paid attention to which forces should be felt through the wheel, and which through the car body. As a result for example kerbs don't give the feeling you've got used to because in reality they don't shake the wheel basically at all - they shake the car. PD figured this out and separated the effects to two distinct groups but Fanatec didn't build hardware to take advantage of it despite already seeing it in action in GT Sport. Meanwhile Logitech and Thrustmaster both did, with Trueforce and T-DFB respectively.
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Never understood this argument.
If you drive over a bumpy kerb and it shakes/moves the whole car and all wheels are connected physically to the car how is that not supposed to transfer into the feedback? Or does the kerb know to just vibrate the car chassis and stops when it reaches the steering column? Surely the vibration will travel through everything including the driver as everything is connected at some point.
 
Greycap
If you decide to believe that all the forces you feel through the wheel are realistic, you either have never driven a car and actually paid attention to what's happening or have so thick ACC glasses on that it overrides reality in your mind. I'm going with the latter guess. For decades games have had FFB effects that are nowhere near realistic but they feel nice and immersive so you've come to expect to feel them even when they shouldn't be there.

A very good example is hitting a transverse rut hard, in reality it doesn't cause much anything in the actual steering, it just sends an almighty jolt through the entire car. Every game (well, not GT7) gives a strong FFB effect in such a case even though laws of physics say there should be little to none because there's nothing that actually turns the wheel. That's what FFB is supposed to do, present the forces that are acting on the steering rack and causing the wheel to behave like it does. Another case is hitting a wall head on. Do you expect a FFB effect? Absolutely. Is there any external force turning the front wheels at the time of the impact that would cause the wheel to shake left or right? No. The result - there shouldn't be a FFB force, but if you happen to have a buttkicker it should hit you hard. That's what Trueforce and T-DFB do on a smaller scale, but Fanatec doesn't have anything like them so you don't get the effect you're expecting and immediately label it as bad FFB while it's in fact just different from the incorrect effects you're accustomed to.
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How do those Logitech and Thrustmaster wheels do it/what is the effect like? They're still a wheel attached to a base, so how do they transmit the forces without acting on the steering wheel? Genuinely curious.
 
rsspyder21
How do those Logitech and Thrustmaster wheels do it/what is the effect like? They're still a wheel attached to a base, so how do they transmit the forces without acting on the steering wheel? Genuinely curious.
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My understanding is that the thrustmaster t-gt and t-gt II have a transducer on the wheel base, while the logitech g923 and their latest DD wheel have haptic or rumble motors vibrating the wheel.

I found a buttkicker gamer plus used (funning thing, the person from the add has a youtube channel about simracing) so I am eager to try this out with GT7 and other games I have on my PS5 like ACC and Dirt Rally 2.

Worst case scenario I will sell it with not much of a loss.
 
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rsspyder21
How do those Logitech and Thrustmaster wheels do it/what is the effect like? They're still a wheel attached to a base, so how do they transmit the forces without acting on the steering wheel? Genuinely curious.
Click to expand...
I can't speak for how the Logitech system works because I don't know (@LOGI_Rich is the best one for that) but the ThrustMaster one is a transducer (as previously mentioned) that vibrates the rig in a similar, albeit weaker way that a ButtKicker does. I have both, so the T-GT works predominately on the front section all the way down to the pedals and the ButtKicker is more of an all over feel, but with more emphasis on the vibration going into the seat. Both of these combined with the sub woofer placed directly underneath the seat give a good feel for road/chassis feel.

One of the things you feel that's easy to describe is the bumps where there's expansion joints, like at GT's Tokyo Expressway, that most people only hear. I feel these through my rig. Kerbs and gear changes also have a feel to them.

These ones.


Does it make you faster? No, but it is far more immersive. It's also something that anyone can do with a Fanatec system and transducers, but the PS5 system has made this a bit more of a chore to work around.

PC's have dedicated transducer software that from what I've read runs rings around anything these other wheels have in terms of adjustability and feel.
 
FPV MIC
I can't speak for how the Logitech system works because I don't know (@LOGI_Rich is the best one for that) but the ThrustMaster one is a transducer (as previously mentioned) that vibrates the rig in a similar, albeit weaker way that a ButtKicker does. I have both, so the T-GT works predominately on the front section all the way down to the pedals and the ButtKicker is more of an all over feel, but with more emphasis on the vibration going into the seat. Both of these combined with the sub woofer placed directly underneath the seat give a good feel for road/chassis feel.

One of the things you feel that's easy to describe is the bumps where there's expansion joints, like at GT's Tokyo Expressway, that most people only hear. I feel these through my rig. Kerbs and gear changes also have a feel to them.

These ones.


Does it make you faster? No, but it is far more immersive. It's also something that anyone can do with a Fanatec system and transducers, but the PS5 system has made this a bit more of a chore to work around.

PC's have dedicated transducer software that from what I've read runs rings around anything these other wheels have in terms of adjustability and feel.
Click to expand...

That's interesting, never heard about this before. I have a large Track Racer rig that weighs more than 100 and whatever pounds. It's difficult to imagine the Logitech or Thrustmaster wheelbase could put anywhere near enough force into it to create something I'd feel in the actual rig given how solid it is. Guess I'd have to find somewhere to try one of those wheel setups to understand what it's really like in that regard vs the Fanatec DD Pro I'm using.
 
rsspyder21
That's interesting, never heard about this before. I have a large Track Racer rig that weighs more than 100 and whatever pounds. It's difficult to imagine the Logitech or Thrustmaster wheelbase could put anywhere near enough force into it to create something I'd feel in the actual rig given how solid it is. Guess I'd have to find somewhere to try one of those wheel setups to understand what it's really like in that regard vs the Fanatec DD Pro I'm using.
Click to expand...
The t-gt I didn’t try so maybe FPC MIC can add more on this, but on the logitech g923, the vibration is mainly on the steering wheel as I don’t recall feeling something in the pedals, for example, even on my wheel stand pro.
 
FPV MIC
I can't speak for how the Logitech system works because I don't know (@LOGI_Rich is the best one for that) but the ThrustMaster one is a transducer (as previously mentioned) that vibrates the rig in a similar, albeit weaker way that a ButtKicker does. I have both, so the T-GT works predominately on the front section all the way down to the pedals and the ButtKicker is more of an all over feel, but with more emphasis on the vibration going into the seat. Both of these combined with the sub woofer placed directly underneath the seat give a good feel for road/chassis feel.

One of the things you feel that's easy to describe is the bumps where there's expansion joints, like at GT's Tokyo Expressway, that most people only hear. I feel these through my rig. Kerbs and gear changes also have a feel to them.

These ones.


Does it make you faster? No, but it is far more immersive. It's also something that anyone can do with a Fanatec system and transducers, but the PS5 system has made this a bit more of a chore to work around.

PC's have dedicated transducer software that from what I've read runs rings around anything these other wheels have in terms of adjustability and feel.
Click to expand...

Do you feel that what the t-gt transducer FFB and the buttkicker FFB produce the same effects? Buttkicker on Gt7 would only be audio bass but is the t-gt audio also or it is data driven like a buttkicker would on PC?

Logitech seems to say that the trueforce can be one or the other depending on the game. I think I heard/read that on GT7 trueforce is ffb data while ACC on playstation the trueforce ffb is based on audio.

Trueforce based on audio don’t seem to be appreciated but on GT7, I’ve heard/read more positive comments.
 
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rsspyder21
That's interesting, never heard about this before. I have a large Track Racer rig that weighs more than 100 and whatever pounds. It's difficult to imagine the Logitech or Thrustmaster wheelbase could put anywhere near enough force into it to create something I'd feel in the actual rig given how solid it is. Guess I'd have to find somewhere to try one of those wheel setups to understand what it's really like in that regard vs the Fanatec DD Pro I'm using.
Click to expand...
The stiffer the rig and mounting points the further the vibration travels is how it seems to work, just like how you feel the smaller more nuanced things better through a wheel that's mounted to a rig with as least flex as possible.

I'm somewhat forced into the TM system due to disability and the TM lets me press a button to switch from right to left accelerator in an instant when friends come over to cut some laps, but if I wasn't I'd simply go down the transducer path with whatever system I chose.

Goldorak
The t-gt I didn’t try so maybe FPC MIC can add more on this, but on the logitech g923, the vibration is mainly on the steering wheel as I don’t recall feeling something in the pedals, for example, even on my wheel stand pro.
Click to expand...
As far as I know, which is admittedly limited when it comes to the Logitech wheel, that makes sense as I think the Logitech system acts on the shaft through the motor while the TM one is literally a transducer on the back of the wheelbase. This probably is what gives the TM system more ability to travel. It is very mild though, and only applies to GT games. I already had the ButtKicker from before the T-GT with my old system so it was a no brainer to keep it and just add to it.

Re your last post (I can't quote it for some odd reason):
The T-GT transducer does feel slightly more nuanced than the BK, and I'm not sure how that gets it's information, but that suits me fine the way I've got mine set up. The BK is as you said, purely off the audio signal, unlike how the PC software operates (I believe it's from the physics engine, but I'm no PC expert by a long shot).

Project Cars 2 was the best I've ever felt with my BK on console. I think that was a special situation where information (sounds) were built into the game to trigger the BK.
 
Need some advice. Tried to play Am2 with my Dd pro today. Wheel gets recognized, turns, less work and so does brake and acceleration. Problem is there is zero ffb. In game it shows gain on 70 and on my Fanatec panel ffb is 100. Wheel in pc mode. Running fanalab. Did a ffb test on control panel and all well.
Any advice?
 
Theiceman1
Need some advice. Tried to play Am2 with my Dd pro today. Wheel gets recognized, turns, less work and so does brake and acceleration. Problem is there is zero ffb. In game it shows gain on 70 and on my Fanatec panel ffb is 100. Wheel in pc mode. Running fanalab. Did a ffb test on control panel and all well.
Any advice?
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Is the DD Pro supported by AMS2? Worth checking their website for official support list. If it's not on there then you can try PC compatibility mode.
 
Hey @PirovacBoy - hope you had a good festive phase and enjoying m4 still...

Sorry to be nuisance, asking this again, but have you ammended the wheel settings since the last update or so? or still running same that you published months back now? (for GT7)

Cheers
 
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B80
Hey @PirovacBoy - hope you had a good festive phase and enjoying m4 still...

Sorry to be nuisance, asking this again, but have you ammended the wheel settings since the last update or so? or still running same that you published months back now? (for GT7)

Cheers
Click to expand...
Hey Mr. B80 all good here hope you’re doing well too.
And yes, indeed I did change a Setting since the latest update.
The FFB Strength has improved so I noticed that it’s no longer necessary to run the NIN Setting at 2.
I have now figured out that keeping it at 0 while leaving everything else as it was before gives the most pleasant driving experience.
The small Details under heavy load can now be felt more nuanced.
With the latest Update The NIN Setting I used before was damping these small Details now whilst on the other Hand gave a more firm Feeling.
With the latest Update though, NIN can be turned down all the way because otherwise I noticed I’m missing these small on the edge Details.
Actually it mostly depends on what you prefer personally.
A more firm Grip and stiffness in the Wheel whilst Cornering or a slightly more loose Feeling and less Weight in the Wheel.
I suggest you to just test it on your own what you prefer more.
With both Settings the FFB feels great and immersive.
As a conclusion I would say the following.
If your main Goal is to have the most possible immersive driving experience then keep the NIN Setting at 1 or 2 at most.
If you’re trying to get the most responsive and direct experience for example in highly competitive Races, then keep it at 0 to get a better and faster reaction time advantage.
At the end of the day it’s all just personal preference.
I‘m personally still thinking that PD did an outstanding Job with their FFB Philosophy.
Driving in Cockpit View and Wobble 2 with no HUD like I always do is an unbeatable driving Experience.
Hope I could give you a small insight on my approach how and why I changed it.
Cheers Man.
 
PirovacBoy
Hey Mr. B80 all good here hope you’re doing well too.
And yes, indeed I did change a Setting since the latest update.
The FFB Strength has improved so I noticed that it’s no longer necessary to run the NIN Setting at 2.
I have now figured out that keeping it at 0 while leaving everything else as it was before gives the most pleasant driving experience.
The small Details under heavy load can now be felt more nuanced.
With the latest Update The NIN Setting I used before was damping these small Details now whilst on the other Hand gave a more firm Feeling.
With the latest Update though, NIN can be turned down all the way because otherwise I noticed I’m missing these small on the edge Details.
Actually it mostly depends on what you prefer personally.
A more firm Grip and stiffness in the Wheel whilst Cornering or a slightly more loose Feeling and less Weight in the Wheel.
I suggest you to just test it on your own what you prefer more.
With both Settings the FFB feels great and immersive.
As a conclusion I would say the following.
If your main Goal is to have the most possible immersive driving experience then keep the NIN Setting at 1 or 2 at most.
If you’re trying to get the most responsive and direct experience for example in highly competitive Races, then keep it at 0 to get a better and faster reaction time advantage.
At the end of the day it’s all just personal preference.
I‘m personally still thinking that PD did an outstanding Job with their FFB Philosophy.
Driving in Cockpit View and Wobble 2 with no HUD like I always do is an unbeatable driving Experience.
Hope I could give you a small insight on my approach how and why I changed it.
Cheers Man.
Click to expand...
Thanks, as always a nice detailed response from you. Good to hear you're OK, doing well thanks.

I quite like the firm, heavier feeling. As I do on the odd occasion when I play ACC - actually, going off topic, but do yiu have Acc on ps5? Was working fine after 1.8 and an update or 2 after, but now my pedals are no longer detected. I've not heard of this anywhere else, and as they work fine in gt7, perhaps I just need to reset all settings in the acc controller settings menu. But not end of world, as gt7 seems to hold my interest more, despite the incredible ffb, 'realism' of. Acc.

I will toggle between those nim settings and see what I like. As I don't race sports mode, or time trials, or many circuit experiences at present, I current value feel. Immersiveness over getting my times down the lowest tenth of second!

Interesting you prefer cockpit 2. I don't get motion sickness, but when I tried it recently, it seemed too wobbly, like you were driving with some super soft suspension setup. Maybe I will try again, but swap it 1st thing, rather than use 1 for 30 mins, then swap over. I used to be bumper only, but recently swapped to cockpit 1 and now prefer that. What with cockpit view, ffb and slight physics tweaks over past few updates, gt7 feels great to be now, really immersive. Think I'll try hud off next as well!

Anyway thanks again, much appreciated as always.
 
PirovacBoy
Hey Mr. B80 all good here hope you’re doing well too.
And yes, indeed I did change a Setting since the latest update.
The FFB Strength has improved so I noticed that it’s no longer necessary to run the NIN Setting at 2.
I have now figured out that keeping it at 0 while leaving everything else as it was before gives the most pleasant driving experience.
The small Details under heavy load can now be felt more nuanced.
With the latest Update The NIN Setting I used before was damping these small Details now whilst on the other Hand gave a more firm Feeling.
With the latest Update though, NIN can be turned down all the way because otherwise I noticed I’m missing these small on the edge Details.
Actually it mostly depends on what you prefer personally.
A more firm Grip and stiffness in the Wheel whilst Cornering or a slightly more loose Feeling and less Weight in the Wheel.
I suggest you to just test it on your own what you prefer more.
With both Settings the FFB feels great and immersive.
As a conclusion I would say the following.
If your main Goal is to have the most possible immersive driving experience then keep the NIN Setting at 1 or 2 at most.
If you’re trying to get the most responsive and direct experience for example in highly competitive Races, then keep it at 0 to get a better and faster reaction time advantage.
At the end of the day it’s all just personal preference.
I‘m personally still thinking that PD did an outstanding Job with their FFB Philosophy.
Driving in Cockpit View and Wobble 2 with no HUD like I always do is an unbeatable driving Experience.
Hope I could give you a small insight on my approach how and why I changed it.
Cheers Man.
Click to expand...

Hello,

I'm new to this Forum, i assume you have the Fanatec GT DD PRO, correct?

I want to ask if you could share your settings with me, i have the GT DD PRO 8Nm with CSL Pedals and Load Cell kit brake pedal.

If you could share it, i would be extremely grateful..

Ty
 
whitemobb13
Hello,

I'm new to this Forum, i assume you have the Fanatec GT DD PRO, correct?

I want to ask if you could share your settings with me, i have the GT DD PRO 8Nm with CSL Pedals and Load Cell kit brake pedal.

If you could share it, i would be extremely grateful..

Ty
Click to expand...
Hello Mr. Whitemobb and welcome to gtplanet.
I have the exact same setup so the following Settings are highly advised if you’re looking for an authentic Replication of the most probably top Notch Settings to enjoy GT7s phenomenal FFB.

SEN: AUTO

FFB: 100

FFS: PEAK

NDP: 30

NFR: 10

NIN: 0 or 2 at most ( I suggest 0 )

INT: 1

FEI: 100

FOR: 100

SPR: 100

DPR: 100

BRF: 70


GT7 in Game Settings:

Force Feedback Max Torque: 5

Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1

And yeah that’s it.
Give it time to adjust to these Settings.
And most importantly, keep them as they are.
Don’t change anything whilst adjusting to the Feeling.
Once adapted you can still fiddle around with the NIN and toggle between 0-2 but I suggest to start with 0 and keep it there at least for a few Days until Muscle Memory has kicked in.

And now go go, and enjoy the most pleasant driving experience 😁
 
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PirovacBoy
Hello Mr. Whitemobb and welcome to gtplanet.
I have the exact same setup so the following Settings are highly advised if you’re looking for an authentic Replication of the most probably top Notch Settings to enjoy GT7s phenomenal FFB.

SEN: AUTO

FFB: 100

FFS: PEAK

NDP: 30

NFR: 10

NIN: 0 or 2 at most ( I suggest 0 )

INT: 1

FEI: 100

FOR: 100

SPR: 100

DPR: 100

BRF: 70


GT7 in Game Settings:

Force Feedback Max Torque: 5

Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1

And yeah that’s it.
Give it time to adjust to these Settings.
And most importantly, keep them as they are.
Don’t change anything whilst adjusting to the Feeling.
Once adapted you can still fiddle around with the NIN and toggle between 0-2 but I suggest to start with 0 and keep it there at least for a few Days until Muscle Memory has kicked in.

And now go go, and enjoy the most pleasant driving experience 😁
Click to expand...
Thank you so much my friend, really appreciated 😉
 
@Goldorak Trueforce itself consists of two elements - kinaesthetic feedback (lower frequency, larger spring forces, generally) and vibrotactile feedback. Those vibrotactile sensations can be generated by information from either the physics or audio engine (or both) of the game - it’s up to the developer what they send to the wheel.

In all cases though there’s no separate rumble motors - it’s all generated by the same motor (motors… in the case of the G923) but because the motor driver operates at 4KHz it can handle everything that’s being sent through to it easily.
 
This is eating me up… 🤬

Since November I’ve been trying every setup that I find online for my DDPro on GT7, trying to figure out how can it feel and why it does what it does because after the first few days I’ve noticed that something was lacking on the FFB detail side… and today I still can’t find a way to just feel right with it on the limit. It’s not event the curbs (which don’t exist on a DD Pro), it’s the feeling of the rear of the car… in most cases, it feels like a bike braking and lift the rear wheels. So weird… and it’s so annoying. And if I try to adjust that, I loose all the feeling on the front. (Using the on-wheel setup)

But the worst is this… 2 months training for a local championship on Daytona with Gr2 cars, best lap ever was - 1.37.014. Removed the wheel, installed the T300 on a not so comfortable rig position for it, couple off laps and got down to 1.36.8xx with room for more. And just could feel the car, the weight moving, THE ******* curbs too!! Everything… it even seems to brake more for gods sake…

How can this be possible?

Why isn’t there some videos online exposing this and trying to alert PD about it? It’s clear and easy to test and confirm it and there’s a lot of evidence everywhere. Maybe someone like Steve Super Gt. Is he on here?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
bypo
This is eating me up… 🤬

Since November I’ve been trying every setup that I find online for my DDPro on GT7, trying to figure out how can it feel and why it does what it does because after the first few days I’ve noticed that something was lacking on the FFB detail side… and today I still can’t find a way to just feel right with it on the limit. It’s not event the curbs (which don’t exist on a DD Pro), it’s the feeling of the rear of the car… in most cases, it feels like a bike braking and lift the rear wheels. So weird… and it’s so annoying. And if I try to adjust that, I loose all the feeling on the front. (Using the on-wheel setup)

But the worst is this… 2 months training for a local championship on Daytona with Gr2 cars, best lap ever was - 1.37.014. Removed the wheel, installed the T300 on a not so comfortable rig position for it, couple off laps and got down to 1.36.8xx with room for more. And just could feel the car, the weight moving, THE ******* curbs too!! Everything… it even seems to brake more for gods sake…

How can this be possible?

Why isn’t there some videos online exposing this and trying to alert PD about it? It’s clear and easy to test and confirm it and there’s a lot of evidence everywhere. Maybe someone like Steve Super Gt. Is he on here?
Click to expand...
I am with you man.... so frustrating. @super_gt is here and already commented in this thread.
 

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