Gran Turismo 7 Engine Swap Compatibility

  • Thread starter Famine
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I'll update my table later - not got access to the PS5 yet so don't know the price of the Swift engine

 
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I'll update my table later - not got access to the PS5 yet so don't know the price of the Swift engine

109,180 credits
 
If somebody could quote this message at about 1pm UK time on March 1st to remind me to update the first post that'd be great.

Coming off 90 minutes' sleep on a four-article day... nope :lol:
 
If somebody could quote this message at about 1pm UK time on March 1st to remind me to update the first post that'd be great.

Coming off 90 minutes' sleep on a four-article day... nope :lol:
Go back to sleep, we'r fine
 
Just tried the LS7-swapped GT-R with an ultra-high RPM turbo (seeing as I had 11 engines and 4 turbos sitting around in the parts bin, it seemed rude not to!). Also fitted Stage 5 weight reduction and a fully custom manual g'box set to 420kph.

4th fastest lap time at SSRX with a 4:20, topping out at 421kph/262mph.

Need to roll the PP rating down to 700PP to see how it fares at the 700PP Clubman Cup races.
 
This update's swap references:
  • 2JZ-GTE-Supra to GR Corolla: Kalle Rovanpera's KR69 Red Bull GR Corolla

@MidnightRun85 remember when you supplied me the correct Rain-X decal for my Ryan Tuerck style.... Well now this engine swap is the final piece to the puzzle to make it usable as a proper drift car 😁

 
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The LS7 swapped GT-R at 700pp with racing hard tires for Le Sarth is actually a really tame drive but still runs an easy 3:55 lap time. I don’t know how it does on fuel, but it sounds like it drinks a lot of it.
 
The LS7 swapped GT-R at 700pp with racing hard tires for Le Sarth is actually a really tame drive but still runs an easy 3:55 lap time. I don’t know how it does on fuel, but it sounds like it drinks a lot of it.
You got a tune for it? I've just tried mine and it's an absolute pig to drive!
 
You got a tune for it? I've just tried mine and it's an absolute pig to drive!
I don’t think I did much. I’ll check after dinner and get back to you.

Here is a video with the tune:


Ran a 3:51 with the car. I’m not that great at La Sarthe. I do okay, but so many aliens can run 20-40 seconds per lap faster than me. Anyway, the car runs well and manages the power pretty easily. The biggest problem with this car will be fuel. The LS7 motor is pretty thirsty. With some fuel management you may be able to get 2 laps out of it.

Because of that I recommend the R92CP swapped R34 Vspec II. That car is about 6 seconds slower per lap than the LS7 swapped R35 but the Gr.C engine will likely get you double the fuel mileage and make the race a lot faster. It also drives really well and handles 900+hp pretty easily on racing hard tires.

 
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With some fuel management you may be able to get 2 laps out of it.
Propably a gear ratio that is more suited for saving fuel instead of revving out at the fastest point of the track would solve this issue without sacrificing lots of speed.
Maybe I try finding out "for a challenge" 😅
 
I don’t think I did much. I’ll check after dinner and get back to you.

Here is a video with the tune:


Ran a 3:51 with the car. I’m not that great at La Sarthe. I do okay, but so many aliens can run 20-40 seconds per lap faster than me. Anyway, the car runs well and manages the power pretty easily. The biggest problem with this car will be fuel. The LS7 motor is pretty thirsty. With some fuel management you may be able to get 2 laps out of it.

Because of that I recommend the R92CP swapped R34 Vspec II. That car is about 6 seconds slower per lap than the LS7 swapped R35 but the Gr.C engine will likely get you double the fuel mileage and make the race a lot faster. It also drives really well and handles 900+hp pretty easily on racing hard tires.


I'm wanting to use it for the Clubman+ 700PP races, none of which fuel is a factor. I tried it at Fuji but the braking was awful (even with Stage 5 Weight Reduction) so I was either braking miles before anyone else (and therefore falling further and further behind) or running too deep and into the run-offs (with the same net effect!). Definitely interested to see the tune you were running at 700PP.
 
I'm wanting to use it for the Clubman+ 700PP races, none of which fuel is a factor. I tried it at Fuji but the braking was awful (even with Stage 5 Weight Reduction) so I was either braking miles before anyone else (and therefore falling further and further behind) or running too deep and into the run-offs (with the same net effect!). Definitely interested to see the tune you were running at 700PP.
Well, it does take a country mile to stop this thing. You have to remember, though, that you are going 70 mph faster than everyone else and most everyone else is running a Gr.4 race car, so you can't expect it to handle exactly like those cars. You could probably drop the power a bit and add in a set of racing brakes and pads, which should help with the braking and not kill your overall top speed.

The R92CP R34 has better brakes than the LS7 R35, IMO.

Edit: Dont forget to get the brake balance controller for the R34. It's back end gets way too light under braking and you have to set the brakes towards the rear to get it under control.
 
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It's back end gets way too light under braking and you have to set the brakes towards the rear to get it under control.
I thought that if the back end gets light, that means the car is going into oversteer, so wouldn't that mean the brake bias would be better set towards the front? In which case, I don't even know if it should necessarily be all that much to the front, unlike a car that's MR or RR like most Porsche 911 models, in which case I just put it all the way to the front.
 
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I thought that if the back end gets light, that means the car is going into oversteer, so wouldn't that mean the brake bias would be better set towards the front? In which case, I don't even know if it should necessarily be all that much to the front, unlike a car that's MR or RR like most Porsche 911 models, in which case I just put it all the way to the front.
I think of it like "the front brakes are grabbing too much causing the back of the car to lift off the ground. If I shift the bias towards the rear, the front will grab less and keep the back end on the ground giving me more traction in the rear." If you have ABS on, which I think 90%+ of the player base does, then you don't have to worry about your rear brakes locking up causing a spin out. At least, thats been my experience with it.
 
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I think of it like "the front brakes are grabbing too much causing the back of the car to lift off the ground. If I shift the bias towards the rear, the front will grab less and keep the back end on the ground giving me more traction in the rear." If you have ABS on, which I think 90%+ of the player base does, then you don't have to worry about your rear brakes locking up causing a spin out. At least, thats been my experience with it.
Sounds like what I often do with FF cars, like the Scirocco Gr.4.
 
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Interesting that you say that, because I was under the impression that rear brake bias induces oversteer, front brake bias induces understeer. I thought of it as if you have brake bias toward the front, the front tires have more braking force applied which results in them having less grip available for turning, inducing understeer.
 
Interesting that you say that, because I was under the impression that rear brake bias induces oversteer, front brake bias induces understeer. I thought of it as if you have brake bias toward the front, the front tires have more braking force applied which results in them having less grip available for turning, inducing understeer.
Maybe it is car dependent. I don’t know. I just know that the R34 with the engine swap needs rear 3 to settle the car while on the brakes, especially when you need to get on the brakes while turning, like in turn 1 or through the Porsche turns at Le Mans. Basically all the turns at Le Mans because you are going do damn fast all the time and trail braking through all of these turns.
 
Maybe it is car dependent. I don’t know. I just know that the R34 with the engine swap needs rear 3 to settle the car while on the brakes, especially when you need to get on the brakes while turning, like in turn 1 or through the Porsche turns at Le Mans. Basically all the turns at Le Mans because you are going do damn fast all the time and trail braking through all of these turns.
I'll need to see what I did for my R34 swap on LeMans... pretty sure I fixed the tailspin issue by adding some weight to the back, but honestly I tuned this car so long ago at this point that I don't remember. But that swapped R34 is by far my favorite car for that race... it's a speed demon and it gets incredible range. It almost feels like cheating...
 
- Car Maintenance & Service
  Engine Swaps have been added for the following cars (Unlocked at Collector Level 50):
   ・Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution III GSR '95
   ・Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IV GSR '96
   ・Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution V GSR '98
   ・Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VI GSR T.M. EDITION Special Color Package '99
   ・Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX MR GSR '06

what will fit to them? maybe nismo, escudo, and supra engines? Windsor, LS?
 
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