"The Official Gran Turismo 4 Gold Medal Licensing Guide" Here it is, the guide to getting all golds for GT4. This time through, it is presented to you from a much broader team. There are more editors, I was not the only writer, and there are far more sites participating in hosting a version of the guide. One of the goals for this guide was to make it easier to use than the guide for GT3. To do this, one of the editor's came up with a great idea. By pushing 'CTRL+F' on your keyboard while in the thread, a, "Find in this page," window pops-up. From here it is simple, just type the first three or four letters and numbers of the test you are looking for, and click "Find." The page will automatically scroll to that part of the page. The licenses are labelled without any dashes or hyphens ( - ). For example; B14, IB9, CB3. B = B Licenses, A = A Licenses, IB = International B Licenses, IA = International A Licenses, S = Super Licneses, CB = Coffee Breaks. It only makes sense to start any guide out with some basics. Here are explanations to just about eveything that might not be self-explanatory during the course of the guide. Basics: -You will need lots of determination to attain all gold medals. There are quite a few in this installment of Gran Turismo that are exceedingly tedious, and require loads of patience. -Skills, you will need some. However, I am hoping that by giving you the fine details and points of notice, you will in fact be able to increase your skill through driving the suggested lines, methods, and the like. -Transmission: there are plenty of great drivers among the vast amount of GT boards that drive automatic, or AT it's called in Gran Turismo. However, I highly recommend learning manual. There will be plenty of situations where AT is just not putting you in the correct gear, and especially throughout the majority of tests in B and A, you will find that learning manual is easy, since shifting is minimized for a couple of reasons. Most of the cars are slow to begin with, and don't shift a whole lot; many tests are very, very short; often downshifting will only cost you time because you are only going to be in the gear for a few mph. -Driving line: first and foremost, you should only give steering input when you absolutely need to. The more you steer, the more speed you scrub off, or in the case of accelerating, the slower you accelerate. When you do steer, try to do it as smoothly as you can, there is no point tapping left and right repeatedly, just push softly and let go softly (if using the DS2, I presume most wheel users can steer smoothly enough most of the time.) Terms: Launch @ xxxx RPM: this means that when a test begins with a standing start, you want to be at or as near to xxxx RPM as possible when the test starts, of course, at full throttle. (Note: if the launch is not at full throttle a more detailed description will follow for that specific test.) Shifting: Much like GT3, it appears as though the best time to shift (for every car I have driven thus far) is just before you get to the rev limiter. This varies from car to car. What I suggest is to use your first run to see at what RPM the needle bounces, knowing that you have to shift at as small a fraction of a second before that particular RPM. Tapping: Tap is meant for the gas or brake, and it varies from rapid tapping (an old, old technique from back to the days of Gran Turismo 1) and is exactly what it sounds like, a rapid succession of taps to keep the cars speed more or less constant. However, with the invention of the Dual Shock 2, the buttons are all pressure sensitive, and this technique is mostly reserved for the exceptionally fast cars. The other end of the spectrum is slow tapping, which is usually used in the slower cars, and again, is exactly what it sounds like. Moderate pressure applied and released to maintain the balance of the car. Coasting/Slight Lifting: I am clumping these two together because they are very similar. Coasting is basically what it sounds like, but generally, I coast with a very, very faint application of the throttle, just to keep the speed up a little bit without disturbing the balance of the car in mid-turn. Light throttle: Somewhere between one-quarter and one-half throttle. Moderate/Medium throttle: Right about half-throttle, or slightly higher. Nearly-full throttle: Exactly what it sounds like, about four-fifths to nine-tenths full throttle. Gradually bringing it to full throttle: This just means do not push the throttle all the way down immediately, you are still bringing it to full throttle quickly, just not an immediate; nothing to full. Tricks: -Pushing the R3 button (right joystick) into the controller (not up, down, left or right) will activate the "guide line." This line is very straightforward. The colour of it ranges from a heavy blue to very pale blue (nearing white), white, and very pale red to very heavy red. It means exactly what it would seem like, the darker the blue, the harder you should press the throttle, when white, coast, and when it's red, braking of course. (Note this only works for tests on B and A license, and also does not work on any of the "Pace Lap" tests.) -Watching the Demo: this trick is very handy if you just can't seem to find those last tenths, or if you just can't seem to find the lines at all. It is especially useful to watch when you have a comparable lap time, to see where you can further gain some time. -In AT (automatic transmission), holding down either the R2 or L2 button will prevent the game from shifting. This is useful to hold off on shifting up to the next gear while accelerating, and also when in a turn where it is a waste to downshift, even though you will be going slow enough to be in a lower gear.