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This is my set up for the Integra Type-R DC2. Please excuse if I'm not posting the right format. If I make a garage out of this I will clean it up and look how others do it. Ill basically turn this into a Garage tuning shop if people like my tuning style. I put a lot of work into setting up a car I don't do a high volume of set ups but those I put up will be extensively worked on. This car has been worked on since its release, only in the last few days have I finished the set up.
A little bit about me. I have been building and working on cars my whole life, currently my Project car is a 92 Mk2 Jetta GLI Coupe with a 2.8L VR6 engine swap & custom Turbo kit pushing 20lbs of boost putting down 465whp. Dropped on adjustable coil overs & 12mm wheel spacers on all corners. I'm running a custom gear set through an adjustable LSD, I pretty much tune my real car in all the ways we tune cars in GTSport.
Getting to the Integra Type-R my first step was to do some research into the car visiting some owners forums. I wanted to use some Spoon spring rates and we only get the frequency in GTS, in order to convert a spoon spring rate into GTS I needed some data I can't get from GTS. I wanted to know the motion ratio front and rear along with the un sprung weight numbers. Using this info I can roughly calculate what the spring rate is for any given frequency and reverse the calculation to get the frequency for any given spring rate. I got some very good information.
The Real World Data
Since using double wishbone front and rear the 2 sides have the same motion ratio of 0.7. The front holding 63% of the weight while 37% is on the back end it takes a much softer spring in the rear for the 2 sides to have an equal frequency. The front has about 110lbs each corner of un sprung weight, the rear about 60lbs each corner. The front much heavier mostly due to the half shafts.
In real life many sporty FF cars will run progressive springs in the rear & linear in the front. The initial spring rate in the rear will match the fronts frequency but the progressive rate of the spring will get much stiffer. Honda seems to go progressively up to equal the spring rate of the front for maximum stiffness at the rear, since the weight balance would have the rear frequency much much higher at the same rate as the front. The reason this is done is because a stiffer frequency in the rear on a front wheel drive helps cornering a lot, but is not the safest for the streets. Too stiff a back end and the tail will give out far too easy in real world road conditions. If you've driven a tuned FF on the streets & hit some gravel or small bumps mid corner you know how easy that back end can get out on yah.
Something to consider if getting springs for your daily FF. If your going to spend most time crusing the streets and very little Auto X or track days a progressive rear spring is a good way to go. If all you care about is Auto X or Lap times linear springs will be what you want.
Now Real world specs don't always line up 100% in Gran Turismo games, so I had to take this into concideration and use as much Gran Turismo data in my calculations and always lean in the direction of Gran Turismo data for end results..
N200 on Sports Soft Tires
I went N200 because she wont max out N300 I feel this is her most competitive field.
Power 123 / Weight 88
Spoon suggest lowering the car around 33mm a bit more than an inch or so, I gave her about the same so she's not riding on the bump stops through corners. She could be lowered a bit more on those super smooth tracks but she's good now all round even on the Nurb. I always go with a rake even if only one click of the settings.
Spoon Race springs at the stiffer rates were crazy high frequency of 2.60 in the rear. Unobtainable in GTSport and more for fully built race cars on racing tires vs a tuned car on street tires. Going for a more reasonable Rate I opted for a softer set resulting in 1.9/2.1 all sets relatively 0.2 softer frequency up front. I chose this as the front is just right under braking, not diving too much cradling the weight.
To give the car some real turning ability I put on some aggressive bar settings but left a tiny bit of room to go even more aggressive. 2/9 with a click of room on the front and a click of room on the rear. Usually FF we run the thickest bar in the rear even some rear upper strut bars and the ITR even has an added bar in the rear from factory. Often the front bar is removed or they run a really really thin bar. Idea is to keep the drive/turning wheels as planted as possible and bar settings make the inside wheel light.
Dampers I initially set as if they came unadjustable with the springs. All this is is getting springs and dampers adjustments to all line up. From here I tune the dampers like you do 2 way adjustable.
I kept the front comp on point but over dampened the ext to keep from losing grip on acceleration & I under dampened the rear comp on account of the high rear frequency combined with the stiff bar settings but kept the ext on point. This was all tuning through feel, the dampers help weight management quite a bit.
Moving on to the wheel Alignment I was directed to a general Track alignment that has been used by many to great results being a set up for tracked street cars not full on built race cars with racing tires. It works great although I had to make some adjustments to the front toe to get the turn in I like, but other than that they worked out great
Out 0.50/Out 0.30
Skipping Diff we will get back to it after the transmission.
The switch to an adjustable transmission upgrades also from the 5spd to a 6spd and since the power at 123% has us very close to the k20 series in the DC5 ITR I went ahead and used the gear ratios out of the DC5 6spd. Both running V-Tec engines with similar power the gears work great maxing out at 250kmh.
Top Speed 250
1 / 3.266 / 61
2 / 2.130 / 93
3 / 1.517 / 131
4 / 1.212 / 164
5 / 0.972 / 205
6 / 0.780 / 261
Now the car will be faster on any given track if you adjust the final drive so you max out 6th gear at the end of the longest straight. Unless the track is so small you use 5th or 4th instead.
Example, for Dragons Trail Seaside I adjusted the Final to 5.252 and cut time after 2 laps.
Differential & Brake Bias are very user based.
I run my brake bias -3 to -4 so far on most pretty much all tracks so far. I suggest you play with this to suit your driving style.
Differential settings I feel are the same and will vary preference one driver to the next.
On the low side (popular)
Mid side (what I like)
Or factory FF
I suggest to give them all a good try and settle where you like it best.
Hope this set up has been helpful, I really enjoy driving this car its probably the best handling FF car in the game, if it had a Turbo option it could also be the fastest. Online running N200 lobbies this car has hurt a few feelings.