Katiegan's Garage | Winter Plans

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I would also suggest MX-5 as it's the simplest car I've had if You don't count the carbureted cars. I'm disassembling my 100NX donor car now and it's a wiring and packaging nightmare in comparison. Although I would again opt for a distributor/carburetor RWD car for my personal project car.
 
SW20 MR2? They are small and easy to work on. No need to get a turbo one, you guys got the 3SGE versions but also the 3SFE versions. The 3SGE is a good engine and if you get a 1994 you'll have 180hp to play with in a 1250kg car.
SVX
1.8 MX-5!
I would also suggest MX-5 as it's the simplest car I've had if You don't count the carbureted cars. I'm disassembling my 100NX donor car now and it's a wiring and packaging nightmare in comparison. Although I would again opt for a distributor/carburetor RWD car for my personal project car.

I'd love something like an MR2 or an MX-5, but it's just trying to find one that either hasn't been ruined or isn't rusted beyond belief. I've been looking on and off for an MX-5 for months to no avail. I did find a gorgeous Mariner Blue one for sale not too far from me, but it sold before I even got a look in.

I had an issue on and off for months with the A3 where it wouldn't hold idle and kept throwing up random warning lights. Plug-in diagnostics always said MAS air-flow meter (as i guess that's the first sensor in the throttle chain), but even after a new replacement the same would happen. Clearing the codes would solve it, sometimes for days, sometimes for a month or so, but it would always come back. Took it to loads of different places including main dealers and VWG specialists with no luck. Eventually solved it by cleaning the throttle body out. They get gunked up around the butterfly valves and it causes the throttle position sensor to misunderstand what it's seeing, hence the random warning lights and throttle issues.

It's a fairly simple thing to do yourself, especially if you have the facilities to do so (and some carburettor cleaner) so might be worth a try?

The throttle body itself is actually quite clean, in fact I gave it a clean when I serviced it a few weeks ago. It's a tiny little thing though so it may still have something trapped in there. This is the first time the fault has occurred and it hasn't come back yet, so I'll just monitor it for now.
 
I'd love something like an MR2 or an MX-5, but it's just trying to find one that either hasn't been ruined or isn't rusted beyond belief. I've been looking on and off for an MX-5 for months to no avail. I did find a gorgeous Mariner Blue one for sale not too far from me, but it sold before I even got a look in.



The throttle body itself is actually quite clean, in fact I gave it a clean when I serviced it a few weeks ago. It's a tiny little thing though so it may still have something trapped in there. This is the first time the fault has occurred and it hasn't come back yet, so I'll just monitor it for now.
Ever thought of something like a Clio Sport? I hate them but they're meant to be great fun. Or a Suzuki Swift Sport. They're kind of new (2005 onwards) but they're brilliant to drive (I've driven one!), reliable and surprisingly okay to work on. I think older Civics are meant to be decent-ish as well, but parts prices are meant to be high.

Bugger it - find yourself a Panda 100.
 
I'd love something like an MR2 or an MX-5, but it's just trying to find one that either hasn't been ruined or isn't rusted beyond belief.

Oh yeah, you guys have rusty cars because of your roads. Most of our SW20s are pretty good for it but the AW11 just rusts anyway.
 
Rest in peace in pieces bruiser. :(:(:(

I feel so sorry for the poor Mondeo, after 12 years of faithful ser.... Wait a sec. Did you say project car? :D

Here's to the very exciting future :cheers:
 
Ever thought of something like a Clio Sport? I hate them but they're meant to be great fun. Or a Suzuki Swift Sport. They're kind of new (2005 onwards) but they're brilliant to drive (I've driven one!), reliable and surprisingly okay to work on. I think older Civics are meant to be decent-ish as well, but parts prices are meant to be high.

Bugger it - find yourself a Panda 100.

None of those seem like project cars to me though, more like replacements for the Panda. I'm still looking to keep the Panda for now (until I change my mind again, which is often...) and have something to work on on the side.

Oh yeah, you guys have rusty cars because of your roads. Most of our SW20s are pretty good for it but the AW11 just rusts anyway.

Yeah, unfortunately anything 80s-90s Japanese will either be rusted out or an overpriced import.

Rest in peace in pieces bruiser. :(:(:(

I feel so sorry for the poor Mondeo, after 12 years of faithful ser.... Wait a sec. Did you say project car? :D

Here's to the very exciting future :cheers:

As one door closes, another one opens! Bruiser Mk2 maybe? :lol:
 
While we're on the subject, I would probably buy some rolling MX-5 based locost seven if I were in the UK. Could be a hassle but also could be a lots of fun.
 
None of those seem like project cars to me though, more like replacements for the Panda. I'm still looking to keep the Panda for now (until I change my mind again, which is often...) and have something to work on on the side.



Yeah, unfortunately anything 80s-90s Japanese will either be rusted out or an overpriced import.



As one door closes, another one opens! Bruiser Mk2 maybe? :lol:
Swift GTi? The old '90s ones - actually never mind - rustbuckets, as well. Trouble is most projects involve rust. If a '90s Volvo can rust there aren't many potential project cars which are purely mechanical. Like you said, either too new, too rusty or too pricey. Doesn't leave many options.
 
Depending on what you want from a project, have you considered... basically anything? If you're looking for something simple and mechanical, just about anything from the early 90s backwards would do the job, and whether it's fast or sporty or not, you'd probably enjoy driving it just for the sake of driving something old and different to the Panda. Any extra joy would come from reviving something that someone else might have scrapped.

An old Fiesta/205/Renault 5/Uno/Micra etc with no power steering, a cable throttle, a mix of disc and drum brakes, a noisy little four-cylinder engine etc would feel completely novel after the Panda I suspect, and be a good platform to work on. Cheap to buy, and as long as you didn't pour too much money into it, you could probably make a few quid on the other side too.

Alternatively, peruse a handy list of forgotten hot hatchbacks (forgotten/unpopular = cheap) and have a play with something unusual with a bit more power.
 
Old project car huh..
Fiat%20Panda%201980%20(1).jpg
 
It's been a tough few weeks for Carlos...


At the beginning of July we went away to Gran Canaria for two weeks, and literally on the day of our flight, Carlos started making a horrible rattling sound. My dad hastily called me outside to have a listen, and it sounded like the exhaust was blowing quite badly. Since we were due to fly out in a few hours, I obviously didn't get a chance to look properly. Come back two weeks later, still making the same noise, and over the course of a few days it was getting louder and a lot worse (if any of you have me on Snapchat/Instagram you may remember my story of how horrible it sounded), and quite frankly it was quite embarrassing as everyone was staring wondering what the hell the noise was.

On the ramp at work, I had a look at the front pipe, presuming it was the flexi section that had gone or perhaps the gasket for the turbo had split. Nope, both front pipe and gasket were in tact. I had a look down the back of the engine by the exhaust manifold, and bingo. Two out of five studs were snapped off and missing. Someone, at some point, had obviously either over tightened or cross threaded the studs and over time they've stretched and snapped off, which would cause the horrific blowing sound. This was a manifold/turbo off job to drill and tap the snapped studs.

So, I come to take the manifold off, and to my surprise, the last stud is weirdly very loose. Then I realised it wasn't loose, it was also snapped, but the snapped end hadn't fallen out yet. Great, three snapped studs! I didn't even want to attempt to drill and tap the studs myself, because if I did it wrong, it'd be the head I was messing up. There's a company we use at work who specalise in this kind of thing, we've used them before for a snapped glow plug and a snapped spark plug. I called them up, asked if they could do it, they said yes, all is well. Until I got a call back a day later. "It looks like there won't be enough room to get to the studs with the engine in. The only option is to take the engine out." Oh. So what started out as a blowing exhaust has now turned into a complete engine removal, all because some 🤬 couldn't be bothered to do their job properly when putting the manifold on. Great!



Excuse the terrible photo quality, but you can (sort of) see the last three studs which are snapped, and the build up of carbon where the exhaust gases were blowing past the manifold.


Fresh new threads for the studs!


New studs, nuts, and some trusty stud lock.


Winding the stud in (by hand so it isn't :censored:ing cross threaded) after coating the bottom few threads in stud lock (I had to take photos of this for my college portfolio, I don't normally take step-by-step photos of every job I do)


Once the stud was finger tight, I wound it in the rest of the way by tightening two nuts together and winding the outer one in.


New studs! And a rag in case I dropped anything (which I do a lot), as a loose nut or stud going inside the engine was the last thing I needed.




New exhaust manifold gasket from the dealer. It would've been about £1 cheaper if I'd ordered an aftermarket one, so for the sake of a quid I decided to go with the proper OEM thing. One stud is missing here, but that's because it wound out with the nut when I was removing the manifold. Once I put the manifold back on I'll wind the stud in as normal with some stud lock to help it stick next time.


Exhaust manifold and turbo ready to go back on. The turbo looks pretty new, so I imagine it's been replaced recently and whoever replaced it messed up the studs.


Gotta make sure your surfaces are clean!


Manifold and turbo back in place.


Shiny new studs and nuts all tightened up (correctly) in place.

That was early yesterday afternoon, and this afternoon I got the engine back in and everything back up and running. Carlos no longer sounds like a dying diesel or an embarrassing boy racer Civic! Although, slight downside, since the air con pipes had been off and back on, and slightly bent to get them in/out, as soon as I took Carlos for a drive (first time actually driving him on the road, and, uh, it's faster than the Panda...), the alternator belt rubbed on a pipe and split it, so now there's no air con. But who needs air con anyway? The Panda doesn't even have it.

Oh, and the Panda must've been jealous of Carlos and his noise making, as on the way home today the Panda's exhaust started rattling. It's like they know.
 
It's been a tough few weeks for Carlos...
F for respect
The only option is to take the engine out." Oh. So what started out as a blowing exhaust has now turned into a complete engine removal, all because some 🤬 couldn't be bothered to do their job properly when putting the manifold on. Great!
Many Fs for much respect
this afternoon I got the engine back in and everything back up and running. Carlos no longer sounds like a dying diesel or an embarrassing boy racer Civic!
👍
the Panda must've been jealous of Carlos and his noise making, as on the way home today the Panda's exhaust started rattling.
👎
It's like they know.
:ill:
 
Sucks that this happened and you had to remove the whole engine but good results in the end.

That's an interesting manifold flange. I see the studs you fixed up hold down the top of the flange but the bottom has no studs or bolts. But there is the aluminium plates on the bottom. Does the flange slot into the plates at the bottom and the studs at the top fix it down?
 
Sucks that this happened and you had to remove the whole engine but good results in the end.

That's an interesting manifold flange. I see the studs you fixed up hold down the top of the flange but the bottom has no studs or bolts. But there is the aluminium plates on the bottom. Does the flange slot into the plates at the bottom and the studs at the top fix it down?

Pretty much. The manifold basically slots into the studs and the plate at the bottom, so you only really have to loosen off four nuts before taking it out.
 
Remind's me of my dad's truck engine, where there were nuts and washers that had just been sitting between the head and block all this time. :boggled:

Great work though and nice write up. While it's a pain that you've had to take the engine out, at least now you've been able to give it a once over and prevent anything more from happening. 👍 From the sounds of the rattle and the picture of the engine out, I was almost thinking the turbine wheel had lodged itself loose... :yuck: I've had to hear that rattle before, it's awful.
 
SVX
Remind's me of my dad's truck engine, where there were nuts and washers that had just been sitting between the head and block all this time. :boggled:

Great work though and nice write up. While it's a pain that you've had to take the engine out, at least now you've been able to give it a once over and prevent anything more from happening. 👍 From the sounds of the rattle and the picture of the engine out, I was almost thinking the turbine wheel had lodged itself loose... :yuck: I've had to hear that rattle before, it's awful.

Yeah, while the engine was out I actually noticed a coolant leak. An additional feed pipe to the thermostat housing had a rubber seal that'd perished. £1.50 for the seal (from the dealer!) and while it was a little fiddly since the thermostat is hidden under various pipes, it was a lot easier to replace with the engine out.

From the sound it was making and the picture of the engine out it looks pretty dramatic :lol:. I knew it was something exhaust related though as I could smell the exhaust gases escaping.
 
:eek: None at all? :(

Unfortunately not. Didn't get to take nearly as many as I'd hoped, I'd slept in the car the night before and knackered my hip up so I could barely walk. Not camping before Trax next year that's for sure. :lol:
 
Pandaghini got lows. :cool:



After having a box of coilovers sat in my garage for about 6 months, I finally got round to installing them the other week. I didn't want to risk fitting them without notifying my insurance, and since the insurer I had wouldn't let me add modifications, I decided to wait until I got a new policy with a company that would let me. I'm paying a little bit more a month now but I don't have to pay anything for the last two, so it works out cheaper in the long run.



Fitting them was (mostly) a breeze. The first time I tried to fit them I had to admit defeat after I couldn't get the nuts that hold the struts on to the car off. I tried every possible tactic I could, but since I don't have an impact wrench at home they wouldn't budge. Ended up having to get my air gun on them at work and tightening them back up by hand to do it. On my second attempt the fronts were easy, but then the rears gave me problems. Actually fitting them was fine, it took me longer to jack the car up than it did for me to fit them, but even with the adjusters on the springs set to the highest setting, the Panda sat way too low on the back.



I took it on a drive like that and the rear wheels rubbed on any bump and constantly caught when going uphill, which isn't ideal when you live in a notoriously hilly area. I didn't want to have to take them off, so I came up with a plan. I bought a load of 50mm washers and put them under the adjuster to act as a spacer, and bought longer bolts to compensate for the extra gap and still keep the adjuster secure.



It took a few tries of putting washers on, building it back up, seeing how it sat, then changing the amount of washers to make it sit ideal (for some reason it ended up needing 14 washers on the left side and 6 on the right just to sit level, I'm guessing one spring/shocker was more worn out than the other), but eventually I got it sitting right. Took it on another drive, no rubbing (only got it to catch once going over a pretty hefty bump at speed), perfect!

They're used, but I got 'em free so I can't complain. (I'd left them to soak in some anti-seize spray in case I needed to adjust them)



The difference between the standard setup and the new.


https://flic.kr/p/21kdWX9
I love how it looks now though, even if this new (to me) suspension makes a lot more noise than the standard one did! I'm pleasantly surprised at the ride quality though. Obviously it's harsher than the standard one, but it's not spine breaking, which isn't bad going since they're only FK coilovers, a cheap quality brand but the only brand who make direct fit coilovers for a Panda (most people buy better kits such as KW that fit a Fiat 500, those will fit a Panda with some small adjustments). I just need to remember to go extra slow for speed bumps now...
https://flic.kr/p/21kdWX9

https://flic.kr/p/21kdWX9
 
Looks awesome! I've got some lowering springs and gas shocks to go on the ol' 240 soon, so it won't be as low as Pandaghini, but still!

I like that you've struck a balance - it's not stupid low - someone I used to know had a 6N2 VW Polo which he completely slammed, and stanced, stretched tyres and all. He couldn't go over speed bumps or railway crossings so he had to take a 5 mile detour to leave the small town he lived in. Talk about form over function...

So in short the Panda looks friggin' cool!
 
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