La Sarthe and Spa ,weather report and other " stuff "

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R31 Skyline works well here, got a 4:10 on lap 2 before the heavens unleashed a hurricane for like 4 laps straight. just need some tweaking to the setup before sharing.
 
2.08 fast lap on normal!
Unfortunatly the AI pace is absolutey inconsistent to really tell a difference between the 3 difficulties by a single race.
I cant talk conclusively for La-Sarthe or Spa but only for Tokyo, but the AI total race times very different by a whole minute for the fastest AI, which means an average difference of 5 seconds per lap without considering any other factor.
 
Completely dry race this time in the R31

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Here's the tune if anyone wants to try it, it's a WIP as I'm going away for a bit and won't have time to dial out the slow speed oversteer when releasing brakes and getting on the gas
Wide everything!
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Been really enjoying LeMans in stock power/weight Gr.4 cars that I have.
Tuned transmission, differential, small suspension tweeks and max downforce.
458, Aston, Jag and Cayman all do very well - RM and Normal difficulty.
 
Been really enjoying LeMans in stock power/weight Gr.4 cars that I have.
Tuned transmission, differential, small suspension tweeks and max downforce.
458, Aston, Jag and Cayman all do very well - RM and Normal difficulty.
Here is something to blow your mind, at Le Mans, you do not need maximum downforce, in fact you should minimize the downforce as maximum increases drag, I've been doing the "stock" Gr.4 challenges and finding out I go faster with less downforce and I still have control in the turns.
Try it, you may like it.....
 
Here is something to blow your mind, at Le Mans, you do not need maximum downforce, in fact you should minimize the downforce as maximum increases drag, I've been doing the "stock" Gr.4 challenges and finding out I go faster with less downforce and I still have control in the turns.
Try it, you may like it.....
Max downforce slows on the long straights, not necessary on LeMans. I keep wide bodies at 120/230 (default on most???, C8 and ZR1 anyway), can run 80/150 and still handle fine. GR4 I lower. Makes for good regulation to keep cars closer for proper comparison.
 
Here is something to blow your mind, at Le Mans, you do not need maximum downforce, in fact you should minimize the downforce as maximum increases drag, I've been doing the "stock" Gr.4 challenges and finding out I go faster with less downforce and I still have control in the turns.
Try it, you may like it.....
Ha, no, mind is not blown... have not tried min. downforce, none of the cars I have used struggle on the straights with the transmission tune - especially - when in a draft, and make up for lost speed (when not drafting) in the few turns we have... having said that, most of the time I still gain on the straights due to how terrible the AI is with exit speed...
I also enjoy gaining time under breaking, or catching through the Porsche Curves, esses and chicanes more than I do driving by on the straights... makes the first couple of laps really enjoyable... as it is, most races I sit at the finish and wait for the clock, although, a sometimes I have had to go ~32min.'s...
But... you say they still handle well, so, I'll have to give it a go.
Thanks.
 
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Here is something to blow your mind, at Le Mans, you do not need maximum downforce, in fact you should minimize the downforce as maximum increases drag, I've been doing the "stock" Gr.4 challenges and finding out I go faster with less downforce and I still have control in the turns.
I agree with this when it comes to high down force race cars, but the "max" down force on the Group 4 cars is very low compared to most race cars. I did some TT testing with the stock Gr 4's, all variables the same just max vs min down force.
Top speed; min>max average 4-5 MPH
Lap time; max>min average 0.8 seconds
I found, for me, in the race the max down force meant more stable breaking, higher apex and exit speeds, and the draft negated the higher top speed, plus I love taking 2 seconds out of the Viper in the Porsche curves :)
 
In a break from formal testing of the Gr.4 cars at Le Mans, I purchased another Nissan and put a new motor in, and was very shocked to find out I can do six laps at FM6 and with RH tyres it was almost a non stop race but, because of a dry race (rare these days) I had to stop at end of the 6th for splash of petrol to finish out with 7 laps and the win. Here are the settings as I use a controller and be easy on the throttle upon exits of turns, she may want to spin with it.


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In a break from formal testing of the Gr.4 cars at Le Mans, I purchased another Nissan and put a new motor in, and was very shocked to find out I can do six laps at FM6 and with RH tyres it was almost a non stop race but, because of a dry race (rare these days) I had to stop at end of the 6th for splash of petrol to finish out with 7 laps and the win. Here are the settings as I use a controller and be easy on the throttle upon exits of turns, she may want to spin with it.


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So technically you could still win by doing at least one stop in the middle with FM4 and or with RM or RS...

But since most of the time you have at least rain conditions requiring IM tires... That means at least one pit stop for it, right ?
 
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So technically you could still win by doing at least one stop in the middle with FM4 and or with RM or RS...

But since most of the time you have at least rain conditions requiring IM tires... That means at least one pit stop for it, right ?
i agree......
 
Hi! Sorry if it"s still sharing setup...
 
hello everyone, I am still working on going through "all" my cars now post 1.49/.50 update, having to re-adjust almost all my cars settings to be under the 700PP limit. the most noticeable thing of the updates is the fuel consumption seems to have lessened somewhat across the board of cars I have tested.
 
Sophy race at Le Mans. I won at first attempt in a Jaguar Le Mans car. 2nd attempt is why I hate this game sometimes. I spun at the corner at the end of the straight. Twice on consecutive laps. Imagine my surprise when the AI field completely forgot top gear and I flew passed and closed up on the leader into the final chicane. Boost has got to go.
 
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Ran the NSX ‘92 swap without widebody. Was able to keep the full 600+BHP. Converted to widebody and full LM GT2 kit. Set to maximum downforce, I had to detune down to 512 BHP.
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Bought another NSX that I’ll leave the narrow body and switch between the two.

Going to buy two ‘02 NSX and see how those fair with the swap.
 
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So I'm gonna answer a question that nobody asked: Yes, you can win Le Mans with the HiAce!

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And hey, it was a fun race!
We started with great weather and the first lap was a 4.15. Not bad for a van🙂

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OMG, those trees look ugly!
But there are a few problems: The car doesn't like any hard braking, it's eating tires for breakfast and it drinks! A lot! So when you rev this thing, even at FM6, it does 2 laps max. So after the first pitstop I thought that it was time for a 3 lap stint and started fuel saving. Heavy fuel saving! Short shifting, coasting, driving in higher gear, everything is required to squeeze out 3 laps. But, at the end of lap 4, the rain came. And my plans were gone. So another stop and Intermediates. And another 3 lap stint with heavy fuel saving. sigh

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A Hard Rain's a-Gonna Fall

Lap 5 & 6 were ok and I was in lead by 1.25 but there was still 1.35 on the clock, so I needed a seventh round. Unfortunately the rear tires were completely gone and the car was almost undrivable. Extrem wheel spin and constantly sliding. I spun out 3 times and had to drive like on ice to finish the lap.

This was on easy mode and just for fun. With better settings (and luck with the weather) it should be possible to win on normal also I guess.
 
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After a few weeks break I'm currently having fun again at La Sarthe.
Today I took the Evo VIII around the track on hard mode. And wow, that's a damn nice car for this!
The Evo has great handling, great brakes and a lot of grip! Tire wear is fine and it can do 3 laps on a tank with a little bit of fuel management.

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The first three laps were fine and there was nothing on the radar so I did my first stop for fuel and tires. Nonetheless, early on lap 4, the rain came. The car did well on slicks even when the rain meter was above 1/3. But at the end of the lap, at the Porsche curves, it was already too wet and I collected a lot of penalties. So I pitted again and switched to Inters.

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Car handles very well in the rain also. I got a bit confused, did 2 laps without fuel saving and somehow forgot that there's a seventh lap😂 So I had to short shift and coast a lot on the final round. But despite this and the 13.5 second penalty I still won by quite some margin. I think this clearly shows, how good this car is.

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But, it's not just the car, it's also the settings! I found those (and the amazing livery) in a video from naffantait, which I will link here to say thanx. Great job, dude!

 
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The new Toyota 86 swaps are killers, with the GRMN / Lexus GT 500 swap being the biggest monster of the group. Over 800 hp, under 700pp with RS, and 4.5 laps on fuel. Oh, and over 200mph on FM6.
I try yesterday the GRMN .
My impressions was
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This thing is a ground rocket , unbelievable top speed and fuel economy which usually don't fit together.
In the rain need extra caution and manual gears .
I will try it again hopping to get a dry weather.

PS
Did someone notice that the weather radar it's a crap lately ?
It's very different from what i remember .
 
So I'm gonna answer a question that nobody asked: Yes, you can win Le Mans with the HiAce!

View attachment 1395358

And hey, it was a fun race!
We started with great weather and the first lap was a 4.15. Not bad for a van🙂

View attachment 1395360
OMG, those trees look ugly!
But there are a few problems: The car doesn't like any hard braking, it's eating tires for breakfast and it drinks! A lot! So when you rev this thing, even at FM6, it does 2 laps max. So after the first pitstop I thought that it was time for a 3 lap stint and started fuel saving. Heavy fuel saving! Short shifting, coasting, driving in higher gear, everything is required to squeeze out 3 laps. But, at the end of lap 4, the rain came. And my plans were gone. So another stop and Intermediates. And another 3 lap stint with heavy fuel saving. sigh

View attachment 1395362

A Hard Rain's a-Gonna Fall

Lap 5 & 6 were ok and I was in lead by 1.25 but there was still 1.35 on the clock, so I needed a seventh round. Unfortunately the rear tires were completely gone and the car was almost undrivable. Extrem wheel spin and constantly sliding. I spun out 3 times and had to drive like on ice to finish the lap.

This was on easy mode and just for fun. With better settings (and luck with the weather) it should be possible to win on normal also I guess.
Is that with the LS7 swap ?

Edit:

I know this is not the right track


I am going to try giving it a go later
 
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Today I've run seven laps at LeMan in a Toyota HiAce van with a LS7 engine swap (FM6), lots of fuel and tyre burn but a 180mph brick was never designed as a race car well it's blooming loony tunes fun way to kill 32 minutes won by 33 seconds with three pit stops, racing hard tyres each time. The rain came very briefly beging of lap 3, no more than a damp track 1/8th at most so just a bit of caution. Second weather system delivered no rain
 
Tried out the new engine swapped Nissan Silvia Touring car, very good! Easy sub 4 minute car, one stop FM 1 and good on tires.
Initial thoughts on 1.52 physics, for reference my default settings are ABS weak, TC0, MT on PS4 controller. Braking feels more forgiving than the kart like " you must brake in a straight line or else" feel of 1.49, not a huge difference but turn in trailbraking feels less risky now. I seem to be fighting a bit of understeer on my old tunes? Corner exit feels a bit looser as well, especially in the wet. Minor tweaks to be made, adapt and move on.
 
Only gripe I have with the ‘92 NSX swap(widebody, full aero), is off-throttle in sweepers. The rear gets loose no matter how I set the anti-roll bars and spring rates. I even have maximum downforce front & rear. Other than that, on FM2 and dry conditions it did the whole race non-stop 30:05.
 
Only gripe I have with the ‘92 NSX swap(widebody, full aero), is off-throttle in sweepers. The rear gets loose no matter how I set the anti-roll bars and spring rates. I even have maximum downforce front & rear. Other than that, on FM2 and dry conditions it did the whole race non-stop 30:05.
Without knowing the setup, you could try lowering the initial LSD and/or lowering front downforce
 
Without knowing the setup, you could try lowering the initial LSD and/or lowering front downforce
I’ve got the LSD at 10/30/10. Car gets out of step with little bit of tyre wear. Off-throttle gets worse with worn rears. It’s fine with fresh tyres and with braking stability, even on worn tyres, throughout the race.
 
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