Load Cell pedals configuration on PC2 (PS4)PS4 

  • Thread starter Pablovi77
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35
Mexico
Mexico
Hi, I’m new to this game. And I’m new to having a wheel and pedals, well, I didn’t have one since the PS2.
I have a Thrustmaster T300RS and the T-LCM pedals.

I have been playing GTS and AC on the PS4, and have no problem breaking, I’m not a expert, but breaking works like it should. You break hard and then let go of the break gradually even trail breaking in some corners. And it works as expected on those two games, on AC is harder to do it, since depending on the car, you can lock up the breaks, but I managed to do it.

I tried PC2 yesterday, and I cannot break without locking up the breaks, even at 30-40% of pressure, they lock up. To be able to drive around a track, I need to do the complete opposite, start breaking softly, and increasing the breaking pressure, and that works, but I lose time.

Is this how it is supposed to work? Is there a setting I can use? Within the game? I wouldn’t want to mess up with configuration on a computer, since the other two games work fine. But it just seems to be very sensitive, it says I’m braking 100% with just a small punch of the pedals.

Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
 
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IfAndOr

Still here.
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5,594
Seychelles
Shropshire, UK.
IfAndOr
XB1:Yes. XBL:No
Firstly, have you calibrated your pedals within the game?

Practice on a warm summer track surface with tyres that have some heat in them.

It can depend on the individual cars, they are all different. I'd say use the stable setups since they tend to have lower brake pressures by default. The brake balance is also set more er... balanced.

Also try changing the brake sensitivity setting (in the configuration menus). I think it's set at 50 as default so drop it down somewhat. It'll give you more initial pedal movement before the wheels lock.


Hope that helps a little. Most folks take time to adjust to PC2, its worth it when you do.
 
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35
Mexico
Mexico
Firstly, have you calibrated your pedals within the game?

Practice on a warm summer track surface with tyres that have some heat in them.

It can depend on the individual cars, they are all different. I'd say use the stable setups since they tend to have lower brake pressures by default. The brake balance is also set more er... balanced.

Also try changing the brake sensitivity setting (in the configuration menus). I think it's set at 50 as default so drop it down somewhat. It'll give you more initial pedal movement before the wheels lock.


Hope that helps a little. Most folks take time to adjust to PC2, its worth it when you do.

Thanks!

I had to lower the brake pressure to 65%, that way I won’t lock up the brakes, but I still have to brake sooner to stop. I’m getting about 2 second faster laps, still about two second behind the default difficulty of opponents.

I had to lower the difficulty to 25 to be able to beat them.

Basically if I break were I should, I always get locked up. Lowering the pressure to 65% helps, but I have to brake sooner.

Yeah, it takes a lot of time to get used to it, specially when the just throw you to an open wheel car in your first career series. All default I was lke 5 seconds behind first place in qualifying, lowering the pressure I was 2.5 seconds behind, and had to lower the difficulty to 25 to be about 5 seances better in qualifying.

I’ll keep playing, yesterday was just unplayable at 90% pressure.

Thanks again!

Edit: yeah, everything was calibrated within the game. And yeah, brake sensitivity it’s at 50, it says to leave it there if you want your pedals to behave like they should on their own.
 
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2,271
United Kingdom
United Kingdom
Thanks!

I had to lower the brake pressure to 65%, that way I won’t lock up the brakes, but I still have to brake sooner to stop. I’m getting about 2 second faster laps, still about two second behind the default difficulty of opponents.

I had to lower the difficulty to 25 to be able to beat them.

Basically if I break were I should, I always get locked up. Lowering the pressure to 65% helps, but I have to brake sooner.

Yeah, it takes a lot of time to get used to it, specially when the just throw you to an open wheel car in your first career series. All default I was lke 5 seconds behind first place in qualifying, lowering the pressure I was 2.5 seconds behind, and had to lower the difficulty to 25 to be about 5 seances better in qualifying.

I’ll keep playing, yesterday was just unplayable at 90% pressure.

Thanks again!

Edit: yeah, everything was calibrated within the game. And yeah, brake sensitivity it’s at 50, it says to leave it there if you want your pedals to behave like they should on their own.
I use brake pressure at 80% on a controller without abs & have no issues, try adjusting the brake bias a bit more evenly like @IfAndOr said, as sometimes I think they're to front ended on most cars.

I normally use a range from 50/50 to 60-40 car pending as long as I don't lock the rear brakes, also keep an eye on the working brake range, use the brake ducts (track temperature pending) too cold & the brakes will bite, to hot & they'll fade.

On a cold track with light braking zones you can pretty much close off the ducts to about 20% & still keep them in a working temperature range, however on a hot track with heavy braking zones you may need to go higher than the default 75% to stop them from overheating.

I must admit I found it hard using a wheel & pedals over a controller at first (I still prefer & I am quicker with the controller) but that's due to the Xbox impulse triggers I can feel what the brakes/tyres are doing through my finger tips separately from the main rumble from bumps, with my wheel the pedals are just dead paddles with no feedback into my feet (like a real car) & I'm just relying on the wheel for feed back (which can be crap sometimes) especially when there's other forces in play.

It's a balance that different times/weather also play a part in.

Trying to keep anything cool at the Dubai Autodrome in the summer is nearly impossible, that track is a brake killer & a tyre melter.
 
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IfAndOr

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Shropshire, UK.
IfAndOr
XB1:Yes. XBL:No
@Pablovi77 - I'd run some laps in the private testing mode, or perhaps a few custom races before jumping into career mode. It'll hep you adjust to things at your own pace. Pick a car you're more comfortable with instead of having to use the little, very light, open wheelers.

If you've got a couple of spare buttons free you could map the brake balance adjustment to them. That way you can tweak it while driving if needed.

And, as I always say, switch on the ABS if needed, especially to begin with. It's not admitting defeat if it brings more enjoyment to your driving experience. I still use it (and TC!) on certain cars - and I've been playing it for years. 😉

And yeah, brake sensitivity it’s at 50, it says to leave it there if you want your pedals to behave like they should on their own.
Drop it to 25 (or lower!) and give that a try. You'll still get full braking but it will help smooth out that initial pedal range you're having problems with. You can always raise it back up as you get more used to the game. 👍
(You might be able to use the default brake pressures then)
 
777
Germany
Cologne/Germany
PirovacBoy
@Pablovi77 do you use the ABS?
I have the exact same setup like you, but I mostly turn off the ABS.
On some Cars, I use it on weak, but what you describe is exactly what I experience too. So without ABS it works like it should.
I set my full brake pressure in Thrustmaster Control Panel to 64% and never change it on any Game.
I played a lot of GTS and in that Game I always used ABS, where it works like you said, full slam on the brakes and than trailing off into the Corner.
You can do it the same way in PC2 even with ABS turned off, but you just have to be more gentle on the brakes. Give it a few days to accommodate, it’s different to GTS, but it works the same way.
Just be smoother with your initial brake inputs.
I very rarely lock up yet I still get short braking distance.
Especially Trail Braking is a lot easier without ABS at least for me, but I guess it’s just all personal Preference.
Anyway good luck and enjoy the Game the way it gives you the most fun.
No matter what driving assists you may use, as long as it’s enjoyable for you and you have the best feel, that’s what counts :cheers:
 
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35
Mexico
Mexico
Thanks everyone, I got used to the 65% brake pressure, on that car. I can use 90% on other cars without a problem, is just that car, it locks up too easily.

But I do have problems braking, I brake a lot sooner than the AI or most people. That’s the only way I can make the turn without locking up the tires. But I think I have the same problem on all sims.

I’m using authentic assists, so it doesn’t let me change the ABS at all, if the car has it, then it has it. If not, then not, like this Formula rookie car.

I got a lot better, and I find the game fun now. I’m on the second championship on the career, but still need to have the AI at 30 most of the time, sometimes even lower, depending on the track. I still don’t know how to properly brake, and lose a lot of time, that’s why I need a lower AI.
 
2,271
United Kingdom
United Kingdom
Thanks everyone, I got used to the 65% brake pressure, on that car. I can use 90% on other cars without a problem, is just that car, it locks up too easily.

But I do have problems braking, I brake a lot sooner than the AI or most people. That’s the only way I can make the turn without locking up the tires. But I think I have the same problem on all sims.

I’m using authentic assists, so it doesn’t let me change the ABS at all, if the car has it, then it has it. If not, then not, like this Formula rookie car.

I got a lot better, and I find the game fun now. I’m on the second championship on the career, but still need to have the AI at 30 most of the time, sometimes even lower, depending on the track. I still don’t know how to properly brake, and lose a lot of time, that’s why I need a lower AI.
You can change the strength of the ABS in the tuning menu (as with TC strength) can't remember if you can adjust it in the ICM (in car menu though) but TC you can.
 
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35
Mexico
Mexico
You can change the strength of the ABS in the tuning menu (as with TC strength) can't remember if you can adjust it in the ICM (in car menu though) but TC you can.

Thanks, I don’t think I’ve driven a car with ABS yet. Maybe only in a test drive.
 
1,053
Lithuania
Lithuania
Napalm_LT
Thanks, I don’t think I’ve driven a car with ABS yet. Maybe only in a test drive.
I think ypur main problem you get used to drive GTS with ABS on. I have Fanatec pedals with load cell. Since I like stif brake pedal it is upgraded with harder rubers. I use stock PC2 brake settings and 100 % brake settings at Fanatec tuning menu (thats mean I need to push pedal 100 % to get 100 % brake) - I don't have brake locking problem at all, depend on a car I push pedal as strong as it doesn't lock wheels (it is very rarelly I can use 100 %), but on GTS I needed to lover brake force at Fanatec tuning menu to 80 (I need to push pedal 80 % to get 100 % of braking), because in most of time I need to push brake pedal as hard as I can to stop a car (I use ABS on weak) and my leg gets painfull after a bit of time.

So the main difference between PC2 and GTS - you must more gentle with brakes on PC2. IMHO it's more real than on GTS.
 
35
Mexico
Mexico
I think ypur main problem you get used to drive GTS with ABS on. I have Fanatec pedals with load cell. Since I like stif brake pedal it is upgraded with harder rubers. I use stock PC2 brake settings and 100 % brake settings at Fanatec tuning menu (thats mean I need to push pedal 100 % to get 100 % brake) - I don't have brake locking problem at all, depend on a car I push pedal as strong as it doesn't lock wheels (it is very rarelly I can use 100 %), but on GTS I needed to lover brake force at Fanatec tuning menu to 80 (I need to push pedal 80 % to get 100 % of braking), because in most of time I need to push brake pedal as hard as I can to stop a car (I use ABS on weak) and my leg gets painfull after a bit of time.

So the main difference between PC2 and GTS - you must more gentle with brakes on PC2. IMHO it's more real than on GTS.

Thanks!
Yeah, but I don’t only use GTS, I use Assetto Corsa as well, and never had the same problem.

It was only with one car it seems. I started the career, and the open wheel car, don’t remember the I. Game name, but it must be like a Formula Vee, or Formula Ford car, I had to lower the Brake pressure to 65-70% or it would lock the wheels very easily. Others cars I leave it at stock, or lower it just a tiny bit. And since that was the first car I really used, I though all would be similar, but they aren’t.

I’m liking the game a lot now, I like the physics, not as good as AC, but close. Except for a few invitational events in the rain, where it gets very unrealistic, specially the AI, and car handling after a few laps in the rain.

I have my pedals set to 70% brake in the Thrustmaster software and with the springs it came with. I’m using a stand, not a cockpit, so I can’t use that much force, or it will move.
 
1,053
Lithuania
Lithuania
Napalm_LT
I have my pedals set to 70% brake in the Thrustmaster software and with the springs it came with. I’m using a stand, not a cockpit, so I can’t use that much force, or it will move.

If TM sofware work similar as Fanatec, thats mean you need to push pedal only 70 % of maximum force to get 100 % brake force (you set it to more sensitive and easier to lock). Try to set it to 100 % at TM software.
 
35
Mexico
Mexico
If TM sofware work similar as Fanatec, thats mean you need to push pedal only 70 % of maximum force to get 100 % brake force (you set it to more sensitive and easier to lock). Try to set it to 100 % at TM software.
I have to apply too much force to do that, I can’t with a stand, it moves the entire thing.
 
1,053
Lithuania
Lithuania
Napalm_LT
I have to apply too much force to do that, I can’t with a stand, it moves the entire thing.
Yes its a problem. Thats why in manual is written hard mount is recomended for load cell pedals. So you have to deal with settings you have :)
 
53
United Kingdom
United Kingdom
Spent hours trying to sort this out myself. With Assetto on PC i am using 80% brake power (thrustmaster software) and gamma to 0 in AC itself - works okay. However, using 80% brake power ends up in needless locks ups in Project Cars 2 so I raise it to 85% and leave the brake sensitivity in PC2 at 50%. Got rid of the deadzone (well 1%) also within PC2 and put 3.4 deadzone in the thrustmaster software. These settings for me with the same pedals for the PC version of PC2 means my lock up problem is now more or less solved with no messing about with brake pressures. However, if you have new pedals the springs may be stiffer and the settings still may lead to lock ups so go up to 88% brake power and lower brake sensitivity to 40% within PC2 itself. I use red on red springs and don't use any washers for the silver spring.

Edit: my pedals are hard mounted to a rig - advice above is based on that.

Edit 2: If not hard mounted and the pedal base moves under pressure then lower brake power to default 70% but you may have to lower brake sensitivity down to 20% as a guide, and be sure to reduce deadzone to 1% in PC2 also. Without hard mount it may be easier to lower brake pressure and change brake bias instead rather than fiddle with brake sensitivity.

Others will have different settings which may work better for them but I thought I'd belatedly chip in with some advice for future readers to chew on when using the T-LCM brakes with PC2 on PC. :)
 
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