Midland F1 Setups - Career Mode, Hard Difficulty (1st Post Now has TOC Links)

  • Thread starter icelt
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World Championship you can set the weather conditions you wish to race in. As icelt says, in Career it is variable & you cannot control it.

I'm curious as to whether anyone here has ever won a race against the AI on Hard (or Medium for that matter) in the rain? I basically resign myself to finishing last & focus on actually finishing. :indiff:
 
World Championship you can set the weather conditions you wish to race in. As icelt says, in Career it is variable & you cannot control it.

I'm curious as to whether anyone here has ever won a race against the AI on Hard (or Medium for that matter) in the rain? I basically resign myself to finishing last & focus on actually finishing. :indiff:
I believe the main issue is that nobody is practicing rain conditions nowhere nearly as much as sunny weather. It doesn't help to practice and qualify with dry settings and then race in the wet of course but I don't know anyone that has even posted a timetrial time in the wet for all tracks. And that is the point I'm making.

I did hold up decently once at Hockenheim on medium level conducting overtakes after last corner leading into start-finish straight. It is a fairly safe place to overtake at as the AI loses lots of speed there. It was quite exiting to overtake with the water spraying all over the place :)
 
You know the main problem with this game? They clearly didn't do enough playtesting. Basicly if you want to have any fun at all in the rain you need to set the AI to medium. If they had've been more thorough they would have realised that the computer is too fast in the rain and would have slowed them down 1.5-2 secs per lap for sure.

Another annoying thing is that you may have set a pole pos lap on hard level in the dry with plenty of camber and low downforce etc. and then on race day it's lashing down and you can't change your set up (this is partly realistic due to the parc ferme rule) but you can change the downforce levels on the wings in real life, but you can't in this so you go spinning into a wall on your first lap just trying to keep up with a Toro Rosso after you got passed by half the field.
 
I believe the main issue is that nobody is practicing rain conditions nowhere nearly as much as sunny weather. It doesn't help to practice and qualify with dry settings and then race in the wet of course but I don't know anyone that has even posted a timetrial time in the wet for all tracks. And that is the point I'm making.

I did hold up decently once at Hockenheim on medium level conducting overtakes after last corner leading into start-finish straight. It is a fairly safe place to overtake at as the AI loses lots of speed there. It was quite exiting to overtake with the water spraying all over the place

Well, there are two problems in the wet: the handling of the car, & being able to see what the hell is happening. Driving in the rain just isn't a whole lot of fun, so I don't practice in the rain & as a consequence I am hopeless at it.
 
Biggles
isn't a whole lot of fun
Well, I say one can squeeze some fun out of it. I’ll give you an example as of yesterday to illustrate: I set up a quick race on hard level with heavy rain in Bahrain (that is funny by itself). When I sat on the grid with no wind to wipe off the rain I was thinking “Wow, this is ridiculous, I can’t see ****!”. And that put a big smile on my face. Red lights out and while accelerating I was thinking “this sure doesn't look good”, still with a smile on my face although a more nervous type of smile now. Closing in on the braking point for first corner I was thinking “uh, let’s see now, it is clearly raining outside and that means 1: bad visibility…*looking around*..check, and 2: slippery track with prolonged braking distance…so I should brake early and I guess that would be about, er, now!”
As I skidded into the rear of Coulthard at the first bend I put a check in the box for condition 2:'slippery track' as well. Goodbye front wing and then I laughed and laughed as I was about to retire.
So, as you can see here, driving in the pouring rain can be fun :)
 
Well, I say one can squeeze some fun out of it. I’ll give you an example as of yesterday to illustrate: I set up a quick race on hard level with heavy rain in Bahrain (that is funny by itself). When I sat on the grid with no wind to wipe off the rain I was thinking “Wow, this is ridiculous, I can’t see ****!”. And that put a big smile on my face. Red lights out and while accelerating I was thinking “this sure doesn't look good”, still with a smile on my face although a more nervous type of smile now. Closing in on the braking point for first corner I was thinking “uh, let’s see now, it is clearly raining outside and that means 1: bad visibility…*looking around*..check, and 2: slippery track with prolonged braking distance…so I should brake early and I guess that would be about, er, now!”
As I skidded into the rear of Coulthard at the first bend I put a check in the box for condition 2:'slippery track' as well. Goodbye front wing and then I laughed and laughed as I was about to retire.
So, as you can see here, driving in the pouring rain can be fun

Yeah, it's fun while it lasts! ;)
 
How did you manage past test driving I wonder... I find test driving the hard level of the hard level. It doesn't matter that if I do get the chance to race I will be better than teammate and that I can win on hard level with a top car, it seems I will not make it past testdriving for Toro Rosso or MF1. I clear 4-5 challenges out of 8 but that is simply not enough. Getting really sick of this now and I might just do MotoGP08 instead when that comes out end of month although I do love this game. I'm just immensly frustrated right now.
 
After running Catalunya in season 2 I have revised my settings compared to my MF1 days:

Catalunya - Red Bull

TYRE'S:
Tyre type: Dry
Tyre compound: Soft

TYRE PRESSURES:
Front: 40 psi
Rear: 30 psi

TRACTION CONTROL:
Preset 1: 25%
Preset 2: 45%
Preset 3: 90%
Note: Only preset 3

HANDLING:
Front wing: 60%
Rear wing: 60%

Front suspension: 20
Rear suspension: 20

Front camber: -0.5
Rear camber: -0.3
Toe: 0.009

Ride height: 16mm
Front anti-roll: 28000 N/m/s
Rear anti-roll: 111000 N/m/s
Front rebound damping: 9500 N/m/s
Rear rebound damping: 9800 N/m/s
Front bump damping: 7500 N/m/s
Rear bump damping: 7800 N/m/s

SPEED:
Drag/downforce: Custom
Gearbox type: Automatic
Gearbox ratio: Custom

Gear 1: 20.0
Gear 2: 15.6
Gear 3: 13.0
Gear 4: 11.0
Gear 5: 9.1
Gear 6: 7.8
Gear 7: 7.0

BRAKES:
Anti-lock brakes: On

Brake bias settings:
Preset 1: 65/35
Preset 2: 80/20
Preset 3: 35/65
Only used Preset 2

Red Bull
Fast Practice/Qualy - 1'15.994"

Not a huge improvement over my best MF1 time but it at least gives one another option to try and get comfortable on this track. Basically compared to the MF1 setup this one is more balanced F/R aerodynamically, uses a stiffer suspension and less camber.
 
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Are you running season two now? And with Red Bull? Thought you got a seat with BMW. Anyway, it's great fun to have tried one's best at MF1 and to see the difference with better teams. I ran a grand prix weekend with Toro Rosso (my favourite team of all) with settings made much quicker then when I did my MF1 settings but it was still a decent setup I believe and I only cut one tenth. In my mind I had thought the Toro Rosso to be at least a half a second faster but now I'm unsure. Also, I find it seems the settings need to be redone from scratch for every car, they differ too much in characteristics to do even near copy/paste settings.
 
Are you running season two now? And with Red Bull? Thought you got a seat with BMW. Anyway, it's great fun to have tried one's best at MF1 and to see the difference with better teams. I ran a grand prix weekend with Toro Rosso (my favourite team of all) with settings made much quicker then when I did my MF1 settings but it was still a decent setup I believe and I only cut one tenth. In my mind I had thought the Toro Rosso to be at least a half a second faster but now I'm unsure. Also, I find it seems the settings need to be redone from scratch for every car, they differ too much in characteristics to do even near copy/paste settings.

Yep still in season 2. I took a long break off playing CoD4, Assassins Creed, MGS3, Uncharted, Fallout3, CoD:WaW, Fable 2, LBP... so now I'm trying to get back into winning the WC titles in F1CE. And you are correct, at the start of S2 I was 2nd seat with BMW. I really enjoyed the car, won the 1st 2 races and was like 2nd or 3rd in the points after 4 races but after the first annoying testing session I decided I'd much rather be in the 1st seat and just race (cue "all I wanna do is race da-dee" from 3 quote here). So when a RB 1st offer showed up I jumped on it. In retrospect maybe I should have stayed with BMW as, for whatever reason, the Bimmer seems just more naturally suited to my driving style. So far I've been struggling with the RB just to keep/get it in the top 10.

Can't help you with the TR vs MF1 comparisons. I just haven't spent anytime in the TR since I started racing on hard. However it seems the general consensus was that of the bottom 3 it was SA, MF & TR in order of strength. That assumes I recalled that correctly ;) I promise though once you jump to the next tear of teams you'll be much faster, it'll be interesting to hear back though how much faster you get.

I'm sure you're right in that the best way is to setup each car individually. However I don't quite have that much patience/time so I'm content to use the same settings for several cars modified only for the different tracks, well that and gearing. As long as I can find myself out front in either a Renault, Ferrari or McClaren... well that's good enough for me I suppose. Just want that WDC & WCC :D
 
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Hockenheim - Honda

TYRE'S:
Tyre type: Dry
Tyre compound: Soft

TYRE PRESSURES:
Front: 50 psi
Rear: 40 psi

TRACTION CONTROL:
Preset 1: 25%
Preset 2: 45%
Preset 3: 80%
Note: Only preset 3

HANDLING:
Front wing: 60%
Rear wing: 60%

Front suspension: 18
Rear suspension: 18

Front camber: -1.7
Rear camber: -0.5
Toe: 0.009

Ride height: 14mm
Front anti-roll: 28000 N/m/s
Rear anti-roll: 111000 N/m/s
Front rebound damping: 9500 N/m/s
Rear rebound damping: 9800 N/m/s
Front bump damping: 7500 N/m/s
Rear bump damping: 7800 N/m/s

SPEED:
Drag/downforce: Custom
Gearbox type: Automatic
Gearbox ratio: Custom

Gear 1: 19.6
Gear 2: 15.2
Gear 3: 12.7
Gear 4: 10.8
Gear 5: 8.7
Gear 6: 7.4
Gear 7: 6.9

BRAKES:
Anti-lock brakes: On

Brake bias settings:
Preset 1: 65/35
Preset 2: 80/20
Preset 3: 35/65
Only used Preset 2

Fast Practice - 1:14.783, 16.355/33.266/25.182

I used these settings for the fast lap series running in the Honda. To help reduce tire wear for an actual race I'd probably set the TC back up to 90% and might reduce the tire pressures about 10psi.

General Note - I've updated the first post with a "Settings Links TOC" of sorts to make finding the setup post for any particular track much easier to access. Just trying to make things a little more organized, hopefully it proves helpful, and feel free to make formatting suggestions :)
 
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Does anyone know if the williams/cosworth car is any good? How is the cosworth for power and reliability?

In real life i remember it not being too reliable or overly powerful??? But could rev to 20,000rpm

Thanks for this thread too icelt. Alot of work has been put into it by yourself. I use your settings for toyota cars aswell.
 
Does anyone know if the williams/cosworth car is any good? How is the cosworth for power and reliability?

In real life i remember it not being too reliable or overly powerful??? But could rev to 20,000rpm

Thanks for this thread too icelt. Alot of work has been put into it by yourself. I use your settings for toyota cars aswell.

Cosworths being unreliable is a myth - if you look up the stats for 2006, you'll see there was only 1 engine failure and 1 exhaust failure for the entire season. Williams themselves admitted they didn't go out of their way to incorporate the engine properly either, and many of their problems that season were self-inflicted.
It has been said that the Cosworth was the highest revving though and had a good powerband. Apparently it was powerful too, hence why its been a good base for this year.

I think its safe to blame the slow-ness of Williams that year (and subsequent years) on their aero department, which hasn't been strong since Newey left really.
 
Thanks for your answer Ardius. Are you able to dig up any info on the 2006 Cosworth F1 V8 engine? Did the teams have to run a 18,500 RPM limit for 2006. I`ve used Midland and toyota in my first season and have just switched to Williams for my 2nd season. I noticed the toyota also limits at 18,500 RPM so im curious to see if all teams have a RPM limit they need to stick to??
 
Does anyone know if the williams/cosworth car is any good? How is the cosworth for power and reliability?

Looks like Ardius has you well covered on your real life F1 questions.

Regarding the game, I have never used the williams car much. I'd expect its faster than the slowest but not quite as quick as the fastest. That's likely pretty obvious though. Probably the easiest way to decide for yourself is to try it out in a Championship Weekend race and see what you think.
 
I have already signed up with Williams as their first driver for my 2nd year in career mode,but have yet to start the season and was wondering if i had singed up to a good team but bad engine(i knocked back torro rosso and renault) I did a quick test on bahrain with the car and wasn`t sure if it has any power/speed advantage from the harsh sounding V8 toyota`s from my previous midland and toyota teams.

Alot people say the toyota wasn`t overly powerful compared to everyone else. I used to bump the limiter reguarly and never had one blow up on me though,but the williams seem to blow motors more than the others??
 
Vanity bump. Currently at 29,900+ views. Hoping to hit that magic 30k before F1 2010 hits. Not certain why that number is magic, just sounds good I suppose ;). Ha.
 
Have another view :lol:

Nice setups, bit too understeery for me, but more front wing and it's all ok 👍
 
Have another view :lol:

Nice setups, bit too understeery for me, but more front wing and it's all ok 👍

Fair enough. Myself I kinda favor stability on the slow, bouncy and off camber corners, especially since I only use std controller. I also like to mash the loud pedal on corner exit.

So I know they are definitely not the fastest setups possible as they error on the side of caution, to put it mildly :lol:. Also it makes'em alot more noob friendly ;).
 
Hey, I realize this thread is mega old. Back during the release time as a kid, I would come here to get your setups.

Now I am again, I'm playing it again on RPCS3 and honestly as long as you do all the instructions to remove the bugs it's just a much better experience on a modern controller. I've been playing with my dual sense, and binded X to R2 and Square to L2 and it gives you linear input for both throttle and brake, meaning you have better control of the car (obviously). Downside is the pitstops, but you get used to it eventually... And adds to the challenge I suppose since you'll have to make up for the initial bad stops with your driving.

Also I have my PS5 controller "overclocked" to 8000KHz polling rate, so it's another element that helps since the game is 30fps. Those minor input delay benefits help a lot for this face paced game. (Also I possibly have a friend working on a 60fps, if not dynamic frame rate, we'll see).

What I found is with the linear changes, I can use much more rearward bias and trail brake, it is quite literally a second if not seconds at some circuits.

So I've been using your setups and basically changed my brake bias to:

P1: 55/45 (main)
P2: 60/40 (secondary for if the rear gets loose under braking in some corner)
P3: 65/35 (for if it rains, or you're really struggling with rear stability)

The trail braking also allows me to run more front wing and get a more oversteery setup, hence adding to the why it's so much faster.

Also in general I found bottoming the car made it much better, especially if you're not running over kerbs. Even Monza I could run 10 ride height, and just stiffened the suspension by 2 clicks from where you had it. Aids corner speed so much. I also tended to run more aero than you in general, 10 more on front and 5 more on rear. I.e if you had 60/65 then I'd do 70/70, or 60/60 into 65/60.

Hope you're still active on here to see that someone is appreciating your work 14-16 years later :)
 
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Melborne - MF1

TYRE'S:
Tyre type: Dry
Tyre compound: Soft

TYRE PRESSURES:
Front: 15 psi
Rear: 10 psi

TRACTION CONTROL:
Preset 1: 25%
Preset 2: 45%
Preset 3: 90%
Note: Only used preset 3

HANDLING:
Front wing: 40%
Rear wing: 40%

Front suspension: 14
Rear suspension: 14

Front camber: -1.1
Rear camber: -0.2
Toe: 0.020

Ride height: 13mm
Front anti-roll: 30000 N/m/s
Rear anti-roll: 125000 N/m/s
Front rebound damping: 9000 N/m/s
Rear rebound damping: 9000 N/m/s
Front bump damping: 7000 N/m/s
Rear bump damping: 7000 N/m/s

SPEED:
Drag/downforce: Custom
Gearbox type: Automatic
Gearbox ratio: Custom

Gear 1: 21.1
Gear 2: 16.6
Gear 3: 13.2
Gear 4: 11.1
Gear 5: 9.5
Gear 6: 8.4
Gear 7: 7.4

BRAKES:
Anti-lock brakes: On

Brake bias settings:
Preset 1: 65/35
Preset 2: 55/45
Preset 3: 35/65
Only used Preset 2

Fast Practice/Qualy - 1'29.656"

Notes: Another setup that was my own, so you're probably better off using the link as a starting point. Although I can compete on hard on this track, with this setup I just couldn't excel. The layout is interesting enough, it's just that it is so damn flat I have a hard time finding consistent braking and turn-in points. I'm pretty sure I didn't even make Q2 here. Wrecked out in the race too. Sooo... maybe one of you will have better luck.
Melborne - MF1

TYRE'S:
Tyre type: Dry
Tyre compound: Soft

TYRE PRESSURES:
Front: 29 psi
Rear: 22 psi

TRACTION CONTROL:
Preset 1: 90%
Preset 2: 95%
Preset 3: 100%
Note: Only used preset 1

HANDLING:
Front wing: 50%
Rear wing: 45%

Front suspension: 16
Rear suspension: 16

Front camber: -1.5
Rear camber: -0.3
Toe: 0.009

Ride height: 10mm
Front anti-roll: 28000 N/m/s
Rear anti-roll: 110000 N/m/s
Front rebound damping: 9500 N/m/s
Rear rebound damping: 9800 N/m/s
Front bump damping: 7500 N/m/s
Rear bump damping: 7800 N/m/s

SPEED:
Drag/downforce: Custom
Gearbox type: Automatic
Gearbox ratio: Custom

Gear 1: 21.1
Gear 2: 16.6
Gear 3: 13.2
Gear 4: 11.1
Gear 5: 9.5
Gear 6: 8.4
Gear 7: 7.4

BRAKES:
Anti-lock brakes: On

Brake bias settings:
Preset 1: 55/45
Preset 2: 60/40
Preset 3: 65/35
Only used Preset 1

Combined your best settings with some of my tweaks basically and it's an awesome setup.
 
Melborne - MF1

TYRE'S:
Tyre type: Dry
Tyre compound: Soft

TYRE PRESSURES:
Front: 29 psi
Rear: 22 psi

TRACTION CONTROL:
Preset 1: 90%
Preset 2: 95%
Preset 3: 100%
Note: Only used preset 1

HANDLING:
Front wing: 50%
Rear wing: 45%

Front suspension: 16
Rear suspension: 16

Front camber: -1.5
Rear camber: -0.3
Toe: 0.009

Ride height: 10mm
Front anti-roll: 28000 N/m/s
Rear anti-roll: 110000 N/m/s
Front rebound damping: 9500 N/m/s
Rear rebound damping: 9800 N/m/s
Front bump damping: 7500 N/m/s
Rear bump damping: 7800 N/m/s

SPEED:
Drag/downforce: Custom
Gearbox type: Automatic
Gearbox ratio: Custom

Gear 1: 21.1
Gear 2: 16.6
Gear 3: 13.2
Gear 4: 11.1
Gear 5: 9.5
Gear 6: 8.4
Gear 7: 7.4

BRAKES:
Anti-lock brakes: On

Brake bias settings:
Preset 1: 55/45
Preset 2: 60/40
Preset 3: 65/35
Only used Preset 1

Combined your best settings with some of my tweaks basically and it's an awesome setup.


Here is a couple laps with that setup, I made a few mistakes because I was nervous of the recording lol. In a Ferrari I know, but I've also used the same setup in a Toro Rosso and did a low 1:25 so I know it's a fast setup.
 
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