N/A Silvias>>>>Turbo Silvias (Q's>>>K's)

D

dirrrty drifter

31
Just for kicks, I got a '91 Q's, gave it all the power it could get (256HP), got all the other parts for it and took it to Trial Mountain. Here's the basic setup:

ENGINE
Everything
SUSPENSION
Racing, generic spring rates (8.0/6.6), default dampers, generic camber (3.0/2.2); -3 toe in the rear, stabilizers @ 2/6...
Close trans.
Normal brakes w/controller @ 3/19
Stage 3 weight loss
Comfort (N2) tires front and back

This car is so good...I doubt it could do super long turns, but on the 180 and 90 degree big turns it's so progressive and predictable, and it can maintain the drift. It's more about maintaining momentum over outright brute force and tire shredding...I guess I should have posted this in the settings depot, but I just wanted to share...if you have the $$$ you should check it out!
 
s14 q's is very cool. i like the sound. did those have ka24de engines in them? also does anyone else get a weird hood cam in that car?? mines further away than the k's s14. i switched back to the k's though, just cuz they had that cool blue when i was in the used shop, and it looks awesome with my used rims (mazda deep dish gold 5-spoke with machined silver lip)
 
I see every FR car as cool:P:sly:.....except for that SS trueno, and normal trueno's or levin's....but I wont bring that up again, you never know if something quickly changes into IDM forums:irked:;)

For those who read it.....;)
 
Mad Murphy NZ
No, Silvias don't have those abominations, only crappy 240sx's have them.
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This is a common misconception... KA24DE's are very good engines... They aren't as light as the 2.0 Litre SR20DE's, but have more torque due to the extra .4 litres of displacement... I own an S13 Coupe with a KA24DE, and you would be surprised at what they can do... There is nothing crappy about 240SX's...

I see every FR car as cool.....except for that SS trueno, and normal trueno's or levin's....but I wont bring that up again, you never know if something quickly changes into IDM forums

For those who read it.....
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What are you talking about?... What happened on IDM was because of immature belittling behavior... Nothing to do with Initial D, the Trueno SS, or anything of the sort... Don't tell me you've been misinformed by the charasmatic C-Trips, as well?..




;)
 
For a stock engine with poor top end, the KA is actually a nice engine for drifting (on 195/205's). Once you boost it though, the stock SR internals are going to be superior. It's unfortunate that the game doesn't have a US 240sx so you could play with some N/A and KA-T configurations.

Oh yeah, primera race cars in europe use a highly tuned (~300+HP) SR20DE which speaks greatly for the SR in both N/A and turbo forms.
 
Delphic Reason
This is a common misconception... KA24DE's are very good engines... They aren't as light as the 2.0 Litre SR20DE's, but have more torque due to the extra .4 litres of displacement... I own an S13 Coupe with a KA24DE, and you would be surprised at what they can do... There is nothing crappy about 240SX's...
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i agree with you, the KA is a very good motor. stock vs. stock the KA might be a better choice for a person new into drifting. not knowing the techniques to initiate as well, as most new drifters find, is helped by more torque.

the SR is a more popular drift powerplant because it has been around for a longer time than the KA's. the SR has had more tuning time compared to KA's and the primary aftermarket manufacturers have embrassed the SR as an easily tunable engine. there are infinatelly more performance parts based off of the SR. the KA has the same if not more potential to be great but there simply hasnt been enought time to realize the power gains that the SR has been able to achieve.

the KA is a stronger engine for daily driving than a SR. more tourque, and no turbo makes the engine easier to control in an on road environment. in addidtion, the KA is not as readily available to be worked on in japan like it is here...i think that they only use the KA in trucks there, if at all.

i know there is (was) a company in mississippi i beleive that sells turbo rebuilt KA's with 400 WHP and the same turbo as an SR. i think it will be proven more capable then the SR's in the future
 
sidewayzinCA
the KA is a stronger engine for daily driving than a SR. more tourque, and no turbo makes the engine easier to control in an on road environment. in addidtion, the KA is not as readily available to be worked on in japan like it is here...i think that they only use the KA in trucks there, if at all.
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*coughs* ... More torque? No sir... SR's pack 203tq@4k rpms where as KA24's pack 160@4400. We make more power tq at a quicker rate, and thats right around the point we achieve max boost, so its all a ride from there.

As far as no turbo making the motor easier to control, this would only make sense if you had a HUGE ar, and your dyno chart looked like a sheet someone on nitrous would produce. I break more traction with my Camaro Z28 than I do with my CA packing 200sx, even though the 200's p2w is far better than my fbody's. This is all due to the fact that NA has throttle response, where as force induced motors dont really see too much of that below 3.5k rpms.
 
Yes, you are both absolutely correct... The KA24DE is a more powerful engine than the SR20DE stock... When you add a turbo, the SR jumps a bit ahead, although I have known a few people to push 600hp with turbo KA24DE's... The Iron block makes it a stronger motor, and will last longer with the application of a turbo, if you upgrade the internals to match...

My KA24DE eats up Mustangs and various other suposedly fast vehicles, which just proves how important the power to weight ratio is... NA is just easier to control in most cases... However, as soon as I have the money to do so, I will be swapping in an SR20DET red top, as I have heard nothing but good things about the response of the engine, and as has previously been stated, there is a lot of aftermarket support for the SR...





;)
 
Delphic Reason
My KA24DE eats up Mustangs and various other suposedly fast vehicles, which just proves how important the power to weight ratio is...

;)
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Now that's just plain cool! 👍
 
Delphic Reason
However, as soon as I have the money to do so, I will be swapping in an SR20DET red top, as I have heard nothing but good things about the response of the engine, and as has previously been stated, there is a lot of aftermarket support for the SR...





;)
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Go CA my Brother. You wont look back afterward. When I get back to the states, I already have plans to rid myself of my SR20 and throw the RA-less block in the red coupe.
 
Because CA RULES!!

Move the settings over to the Drift depo when you get a chance. With proper tuning i beat i can drift the longer turns such as Midfield 👍
 
flohtingPoint
Go CA my Brother. You wont look back afterward. When I get back to the states, I already have plans to rid myself of my SR20 and throw the RA-less block in the red coupe.
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Explain... I know when you suggest something, it's usualy right on the money, and well researched... I took your advise in buying the VLSD (installing it the day after tomorrow)... BTW, any suggestions on gear oil for the diff?... I was planning on using some Royal Purple Max Gear 75W-90...

As for the topic... I love my S13 and S14 Q's... I wish they had a usdm 240SX in the game, as it might have a bit more stock power than the SR20DE (non turbo SR20DET), correct me if I'm wrong... Still, I love drifting around my cranberry red '88 S13 Coupe (similar to my real S13)...





;)
 
SR20DE: 160ps@6400 r.p.m. (later models 165ps)
188Nm@4800 r.p.m.
KA24DE: 155ps@5600 r.p.m.
160Nm@440 0r.p.m.

I know where my money would be going.
 
Mad Murphy NZ
SR20DE: 160ps@6400 r.p.m. (later models 165ps)
188Nm@4800 r.p.m.
KA24DE: 155ps@5600 r.p.m.
160Nm@440 0r.p.m.

I know where my money would be going.
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Hmmm... I'd go with the KA... Low end torque is very benificial... If we were talking KA24DET against an SR20DET, I'd go with the SR...

I'm still waiting to hear about the benifits of the CA18DET though...





;)
 
d3p0
Out of curiosity, how much did you pay for a viscous?
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$300 shipped for a brand new VLSD inside a JDM pumpkin with 5 bolt shafts... The pumpkin and shafts are used but in excellent condition... I just need to get some gear oil, a couple extra bolts for the extra shaft bolt holes (USDM shafts are 4 bolt), then I will install it (in a few days)... My current differential (stock USDM open diff) was damaged in an accident (I was hit from the side)... So it needs to be replaced very soon... If you want to see what the car looked like before and after the accident, click the link below:

http://lsdrift.com/iboard/index.php?showtopic=201&st=135

Post #142


Lets get back on topic guys...


;)
 
Delphic Reason
Hmmm... I'd go with the KA... Low end torque is very benificial... If we were talking KA24DET against an SR20DET, I'd go with the SR...

I'm still waiting to hear about the benifits of the CA18DET though...





;)
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I bet an SR20 would develop around the same torque as a KA at 4400 rpm. SR20s are great engines and they can stand up to a heap of punishment and always surprise me every time I drive a car with one.
 
Delphic Reason
Explain... I know when you suggest something, it's usualy right on the money, and well researched... I took your advise in buying the VLSD (installing it the day after tomorrow)... BTW, any suggestions on gear oil for the diff?... I was planning on using some Royal Purple Max Gear 75W-90...
Click to expand...

Most of us Nissan folk use Red Line (http://www.redlineoil.com/), but RP will work just fine. For tranny, we use MT-90 (NEEDS TO BE GL-4 if you change out your fluid and dont use MT-90. GL5 will eat synchros). For the diff we use 75w-90.

Ok, CA, here we go, sorry lil late as when I posted the previous post it was like... 1am or something over here.

Major benefits of the CA over the SR are Iron block vs alloy, making it boreable without having to be sleeved. Direct actuation of the cams vs rocker arms making it more efficient and stronger (these are the same things that make 4ag's so strong) The same cam over valve design was used in the RB series of motors.

SR's were created during a cheaper period of Nissan's lifetime. They cut alot of corners, and produced a much more inferior design. I have beat CAs and have had no issues while buddies of mine have demolished valvetrains with revs the stock SR can't handle that my CAs only laughs at. Block liners can be dismembered with a ring failure that would only need a cleanup on a CA.

The only SR they half built right were the GTiR's, with itb's and solid lifters.

Beyond all the techno mumbo jumbo, the CA is a pleasure to work on. Things come off with ease, that would in most cases, require you to jack up the SR. With air tools, I can have my turbo, exhaust manifold, tranny and start off in a quarter of the time it would take me to do on the SR.

Parts are not nearly abundant as SR's, but with a quick trip to NICO or SXOC (basically the european NICO, VERY CA smart people), and you can find pretty much anything you need, or get pointed in the right direction.
 
Most of us Nissan folk use Red Line (http://www.redlineoil.com/), but RP will work just fine. For tranny, we use MT-90 (NEEDS TO BE GL-4 if you change out your fluid and dont use MT-90. GL5 will eat synchros). For the diff we use 75w-90.
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Ok... I can't find any Royal Purple or Redline Oil in my area... I would have to get them ordered, which I just don't have the time to do for this particular install... I found some Mobil 1 fully synthetic 75W-90, so I think I'll go that route... Mobil 1 makes top quality synthetic varieties, so I'm sure it will be good for this application... Oh, and thanks for the advise on the CA18DET... I'll probably still end up going with an SR20DET, just for the simple reason, it's easier to find parts for, and it's a slightly newer, and larger engine... Thanks again for the advise, mate...





;)
 
Mobil 1 makes great synth oil for forced induced cars, and thats about it. Over on bob's, they have put M1 through the ringer on alot of applications and it has lowered my opinion of it greatly.


They made CA's over here in Europe well after they were discontinued over in Japan (Europe didnt get SR's until the S14). In fact, some herald that we have the better CA's, packing 4 port heads and no BV's, as opposed to the j-spec ones that have 8 port and an actuator system that accompanies it (which most people disable and remove). I have a CA in my garage thats newer than my redtop SR that resides in my 240 back in the states.

The only parts that are difficult to find are flywheels, coilpacks and cams. Everything else is no problem. Quick rundown of a basic system:

-Clutch: You can use KA24DE clutches, they bolt up just fine with only having to remove one alignment pin in the flywheel, or you can convert to SR which requires the use of a diff starter.

-Exhaust manifold: Its cheaper to have a shop custom fab you a tube-manif than it is paying out the butt for the HK$ (better known to us backyard mechanics as Satan himself) on any project you work on. The shop can make you your manif and cut you a gasket.

-Turbo: Any T25-T28 will work fine, may have to clock the compressor though. Oil/coolant l ines can be ordered through phase2.

-Intercooler: Use any you want. With a sawzall, angle grinder and a welder, you can make anything fit. The motor doesnt matter.

-ECU: The brits have a company that does ECU's as good as JWT but for cheaper. Dont want to do ECU, f-it and go SDS, which will clean out alot of items.

-Boost controller: Use any

-Guages: Use any

-Intake Manifold: Brits and the Aussies have companies that custom make plenums.

-Maintenance parts: NICO has a big list of replacement parts that are just a hop skip and a jump away.

*edits... man, doing this type of thing at past midnight is not a good idea... its 3am here now*

-Injectors, CA's use top feed, so you can gank Rx7 injectors out of a junkyard and those are a decent step up. Anything after that, just search for top feed nissan and you'll be fine.

-Z32 maf works fine.

-SAFC plugs right in


With the above setup, you are already a good deal into making a strong motor, and lets be serious here, you dont plan on doing something sick like a daily driven 400+ hp motor right (thats silly in itself). Stock cams will be just fine for you, in fact you wont have any timing issues with that.

People are mainly scared of CA's because they think they are in the dark with them, that there is no one around and they feel safer going with the more popular option of an SR. This is not the case. ALL of Europe are big CA fans, you can easily get ahold of around 500 or so just by heading to SXOC and posing a question there. There is also NICO. Their CA section has some of the smartest folks I've had the privelage of talking to. Far smarter than someone like me, who has learned everything through trial and error and is basically a product of junkyards and backyards.

I cannot preech enough about the CA, but if you still want to go SR, hey its your call and your cash Brother, and no one can say you're wrong or right for doing what you want =)



@D3P0: Dont believe all the SR myths you read. Unless you were there, to see the full application built, take anything that boasts its running on "stock (insert item here)" with a grain of salt. SR's are decent motors, but CA's giggle at applications of force that would dismantle the 2.0. I've been doing SR's for over half a decade, so I've been around the block and then some on the motor (from throwing them into applications, to fishing them out of junkyards to rebuild and sell) and I can easily testify how much more well built the CA is. The Brits have done things with the CA's that would shatter SR's several times over.
 
http://shadezofgrey.com/gds13spec.htm

That's over 500hp at the crank on a stock block. I believe what you're saying about the CA's design, but I guess tuneability has a lot to do with availibility. SR's are probably 25:1 here in the states and I don't think anyone is using a CA in competition.
 
d3p0
http://shadezofgrey.com/gds13spec.htm

That's over 500hp at the crank on a stock block. I believe what you're saying about the CA's design, but I guess tuneability has a lot to do with availibility. SR's are probably 25:1 here in the states and I don't think anyone is using a CA in competition.
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I see articles posted like this everyday. Given 5 minutes, I could find you 10 more instances in which people claim the same or more on stock bottom end on an SR. This is no new thing.

I dont really like drifting IRL (I do time based motorsports, not something I need a judge for), but off the top of my head, Enjuku uses a CA in one of their shop vehicles. I'm sure if I dug around I could find more but I've little interest in what major shops do to their cars, I follow more of what the avg joe does.
 

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