Praiano's GT Sport Garage

  • Thread starter praiano63
  • 762 comments
  • 696,629 views
For me to play GT7 in the future on PS5 :
  • i'll need better physics .
  • Better FFB for my G29 ( i don't know about the others wheels but actually , sensations are so poors)
  • 100% VR playable.

PS5+VR+GT7 = will be a huge amount of money for me. That's why i'll be wait a detail feedback and analyse on youtube from my trusted GT gamers friends.
It would be a shame if you were not around for GT7 my friend, because a lot of people will miss your outstanding work you do.
 
I am the same with GTS as you praiano63 but I just play a bit now and then.
The daily cargift makes it complet .4 cars 1 expensive 2 middle 1 low budget .and the win is low budget.unbelievable frustrating
Wait for gt7

i hope to see "Praiano's GT7 garage"
Best regards from germany
Matze-Lang
 
How to tune a car in GTS:
-First you have to know that every setting parameters available in GT are working in the right way.
-Each parameter is more or less eficient and will change with more or less influence the behaviors of the car.
Knowing this , let's see what are the most and less responsive. You have to begin the tuning process from the more responsive to the less one.

*Strong effect:
Ride height
Springs
Camber
Downforce


*Medium effect
Differential
TOE alignement settings
Brake bakance


*Weak effect
Dampers
Anti roll bars



After a quick test and depending of the car, his drivetrain mostly , you'll have fix the bad behaviors you have found on it and try to match the balance that will make you feel more comfortable , depending of yours skills and driving style.

Cars are showing from under steer (mainly FF drivetrain) to over steer ( mainly MR and RR drivetrain) passing by a neutral balance ( mostly FR drivetrain)

How to proceed:
Of course depending of the effect you want to correct , you will have to use extreme settings values to counter a strong effect on the setting bar.

Each parameter you will set on the same way will be added to the next one and will increase this effect.

Like i've said, you have to begin from the stronger effect parameters to the Weak effect one.

*Strong effect:
Ride height
: Front low Rear high = oversteer

Springs : Front low Rear high = oversteer

Camber : Begin with a medium value , (Check the cornering number to match the best therorical number) and set this numbers just to contain the inertia of the car . It work very well for the rear camber, a higher number will contain the rear end if you have some problems with it.

Downforce : Very important on F1 or Lemans cars with big amount of downforce , there is a big diff in top speed depending of the amount of downforce for those cars , you have to match the best compromise not only for the overall balance , but , when you have found this balance , you have to low or increase the both values proportionally to optimise the top speed or cornering depending of the track.

*Medium effect
Brake bakance:
Like it is explained in game , positive value will give more brakes to the rear , printing more over steer entering a corner, the front of the car enter frankly leading to the apex. Extrem value can be hard to master. Some skilled drivers love to use this to perform trail braking , this technique is not easy to execute on some happy tail cars.
I normally use medium values or sometime negative values for cars that can loose the rear easily after successives weight transfer under braking. Like braking hard entering and during a chicane for example. All this depend of course of the orientation of your overall setting you have done in the first part with the others strong effect parameters.


Differential:
Inicial:
Low value will contain the torque during acceleration and braking , making smoother your inputs. I use low values on most of my cars.
Higher numbers are used in certain cases , for example on a low power car where a sudden gain of torque on the drive train will not generate any surprise for the driver. And or when a car is very free around his central axe , to better curb or limit this inertia that can be very difficult to control , together with the other 2 LSD settings,

Acceleration: This is the main setting you have to match to feel comfortable out corner under acceleration. Raise it till you can manage a good out corner performance, printing a light over steer and eagerness , staying with a safe good control of the pedal.

Deceleration: Decrease the value till you feel comfortable braking in a corner , the car coming gently around his axe. Remember that you will have setted your brake balance first.

TOE alignement settings
This is what how i do TOE settings in this game more or less. Each car is a special case but 99% are done this way . Just my way to do.

+TOE in front wheel
I use on FF / FR and some lazy front end MR
Entering a corner , your driving input is smoother with a slower reaction to the wheel input when placing the front end .
When the car lay on his angle from mid corner to out the corner , the car is more steady and the grip / eagerness is better. I use between 0 to 0,10 TOE in at the front normally

-TOE out front wheel
I use it mostly on tail happy MR and almost 100% of my RR cars.
Entering the corner the input have to be smooth because at this moment the negative out TOE have a tendency giving more instant reaction to your wheel input.
When this kind of cars lay on his angle mid corner till performing the out corner , the tendency is a natural oversteer tendency.
- negative out front TOE will help you to maintain the driving line giving you more margin in the wheel input to correct the trajectory without messing with the car balance. I use between 0 and -0,30 depending if the car have a very loose rear end or not.

+TOE in rear wheel
I use it mostly on FR MR and RR , value from 10 to 25 for low and medium power cars above 25 to 60 on very powerfull road cars to give more steady line out corner .
Downforce help to contain the rear of powerfull race cars. This must be setted according to LSD acceleration.

-TOE out rear wheel
Uniquely for some 4WD and FF cars that show laziness with a heavy understeery front end. It help a lot to turn. I never use above -0,50 rear TOE out.



*Weak effect
Dampers
Compression:

Lower front than rear values = more oversteer .

Extension:
Good to help to contain weight transfer. Higher value will contain the mouvements of the car's roll on each side.



Anti roll bars: Lower value front or rear give more grip on this side when off throttle.
A lower front value will help to bring a car to the apex for example , but also will let the direction more slack and less responsive.
I use to set a higher front value in GT . But , if the car after braking entering a corner is a bit lazzy to point to the apex , then i low this front value a bit till i fell ok with the way the car point to the apex.


_______________________________________________


Excuse my english if i'm not very clear, but that is all i can do to explain an easy way to do it.

At the beginning and for a long time , till you have a perfect automatic way to set your car, ONLY DO ONE SETTING AT THE SAME TIME.
Then cheeck the effect on track before to mess with something else.

Have a good drive.
Any tips for the C7 Covette Cr.4 (Group 4 racing)? Specially on differential and gears? Thanks in advance.
 
Any tips for the C7 Covette Cr.4 (Group 4 racing)? Specially on differential and gears? Thanks in advance.
Sorry i don't have any setting for it . I'm not driving GTSport since july. Waiting GT7 to check if i will play again this game.
Good luck.
 
@praiano63 just used your Mclaren 650 Group 4 tune for the most recent Manufacturers race....what excellent work. I had gotten used to the stock settings and generally enjoyed the 650 out of the available choices, but your tune makes it one of the best feeling cars ive EVER driven in GT. Perfect turn in, perfect rotation and really make the most of all things good about a mid engined car :mischievous:

Superb work :cheers:
 
@praiano63 just used your Mclaren 650 Group 4 tune for the most recent Manufacturers race....what excellent work. I had gotten used to the stock settings and generally enjoyed the 650 out of the available choices, but your tune makes it one of the best feeling cars ive EVER driven in GT. Perfect turn in, perfect rotation and really make the most of all things good about a mid engined car :mischievous:

Superb work :cheers:
Thanks. Normally , recents settings like this one are working well. I don't remember the date of the last physics updates , but 80% of my olders cars are garbage now. :lol:
Good luck , have fun playing GT.
 
How to tune a car in GTS:
-First you have to know that every setting parameters available in GT are working in the right way.
-Each parameter is more or less eficient and will change with more or less influence the behaviors of the car.
Knowing this , let's see what are the most and less responsive. You have to begin the tuning process from the more responsive to the less one.

*Strong effect:
Ride height
Springs
Camber
Downforce


*Medium effect
Differential
TOE alignement settings
Brake bakance


*Weak effect
Dampers
Anti roll bars



After a quick test and depending of the car, his drivetrain mostly , you'll have fix the bad behaviors you have found on it and try to match the balance that will make you feel more comfortable , depending of yours skills and driving style.

Cars are showing from under steer (mainly FF drivetrain) to over steer ( mainly MR and RR drivetrain) passing by a neutral balance ( mostly FR drivetrain)

How to proceed:
Of course depending of the effect you want to correct , you will have to use extreme settings values to counter a strong effect on the setting bar.

Each parameter you will set on the same way will be added to the next one and will increase this effect.

Like i've said, you have to begin from the stronger effect parameters to the Weak effect one.

*Strong effect:
Ride height
: Front low Rear high = oversteer

Springs : Front low Rear high = oversteer

Camber : Begin with a medium value , (Check the cornering number to match the best therorical number) and set this numbers just to contain the inertia of the car . It work very well for the rear camber, a higher number will contain the rear end if you have some problems with it.

Downforce : Very important on F1 or Lemans cars with big amount of downforce , there is a big diff in top speed depending of the amount of downforce for those cars , you have to match the best compromise not only for the overall balance , but , when you have found this balance , you have to low or increase the both values proportionally to optimise the top speed or cornering depending of the track.

*Medium effect
Brake bakance:
Like it is explained in game , positive value will give more brakes to the rear , printing more over steer entering a corner, the front of the car enter frankly leading to the apex. Extrem value can be hard to master. Some skilled drivers love to use this to perform trail braking , this technique is not easy to execute on some happy tail cars.
I normally use medium values or sometime negative values for cars that can loose the rear easily after successives weight transfer under braking. Like braking hard entering and during a chicane for example. All this depend of course of the orientation of your overall setting you have done in the first part with the others strong effect parameters.


Differential:
Inicial:
Low value will contain the torque during acceleration and braking , making smoother your inputs. I use low values on most of my cars.
Higher numbers are used in certain cases , for example on a low power car where a sudden gain of torque on the drive train will not generate any surprise for the driver. And or when a car is very free around his central axe , to better curb or limit this inertia that can be very difficult to control , together with the other 2 LSD settings,

Acceleration: This is the main setting you have to match to feel comfortable out corner under acceleration. Raise it till you can manage a good out corner performance, printing a light over steer and eagerness , staying with a safe good control of the pedal.

Deceleration: Decrease the value till you feel comfortable braking in a corner , the car coming gently around his axe. Remember that you will have setted your brake balance first.

TOE alignement settings
This is what how i do TOE settings in this game more or less. Each car is a special case but 99% are done this way . Just my way to do.

+TOE in front wheel
I use on FF / FR and some lazy front end MR
Entering a corner , your driving input is smoother with a slower reaction to the wheel input when placing the front end .
When the car lay on his angle from mid corner to out the corner , the car is more steady and the grip / eagerness is better. I use between 0 to 0,10 TOE in at the front normally

-TOE out front wheel
I use it mostly on tail happy MR and almost 100% of my RR cars.
Entering the corner the input have to be smooth because at this moment the negative out TOE have a tendency giving more instant reaction to your wheel input.
When this kind of cars lay on his angle mid corner till performing the out corner , the tendency is a natural oversteer tendency.
- negative out front TOE will help you to maintain the driving line giving you more margin in the wheel input to correct the trajectory without messing with the car balance. I use between 0 and -0,30 depending if the car have a very loose rear end or not.

+TOE in rear wheel
I use it mostly on FR MR and RR , value from 10 to 25 for low and medium power cars above 25 to 60 on very powerfull road cars to give more steady line out corner .
Downforce help to contain the rear of powerfull race cars. This must be setted according to LSD acceleration.

-TOE out rear wheel
Uniquely for some 4WD and FF cars that show laziness with a heavy understeery front end. It help a lot to turn. I never use above -0,50 rear TOE out.



*Weak effect
Dampers
Compression:

Lower front than rear values = more oversteer .

Extension:
Good to help to contain weight transfer. Higher value will contain the mouvements of the car's roll on each side.



Anti roll bars: Lower value front or rear give more grip on this side when off throttle.
A lower front value will help to bring a car to the apex for example , but also will let the direction more slack and less responsive.
I use to set a higher front value in GT . But , if the car after braking entering a corner is a bit lazzy to point to the apex , then i low this front value a bit till i fell ok with the way the car point to the apex.


_______________________________________________


Excuse my english if i'm not very clear, but that is all i can do to explain an easy way to do it.

At the beginning and for a long time , till you have a perfect automatic way to set your car, ONLY DO ONE SETTING AT THE SAME TIME.
Then cheeck the effect on track before to mess with something else.

Have a good drive.
Hey! Only way I knew how to get ahold of you. I was just wondering if you have a tune for the BMW VGT on GT7? Thanks!
 
Hi!

I am a beginner in GT.

I have been reading this thread.

What is the verdict from the people that played the earlier versions, on the new GT7? And this regarding if it is worth spending time on tunes.
 
Hi!

I am a beginner in GT.

I have been reading this thread.

What is the verdict from the people that played the earlier versions, on the new GT7? And this regarding if it is worth spending time on tunes.

I've always regarded my self a beginner! Ever since I was in my racing pram!
 
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