Duke Racing Celica GT-Four Time Attack Racecar

[Katiegan]

That's the subframe off the car? I thought it was a new one! I'm still amazed by how clean and tidy you keep this thing.

 

[Punknoodle]

That's the subframe off the car? I thought it was a new one! I'm still amazed by how clean and tidy you keep this thing.

It looked a little average when it came off, but this is the result of spending about an hour on it with a rag and brake clean. I need to use a gas torch on it to get the old bonded bushes out of it so I'll need to repaint it again after I do that.

 

[Katiegan]

It looked a little average when it came off, but this is the result of spending about an hour on it with a rag and brake clean. I need to use a gas torch on it to get the old bonded bushes out of it so I'll need to repaint it again after I do that.

Brake cleaner is a godsend.

 

[Punknoodle]

This afternoon after work I got stuck in to pulling out the old bushes and replacing them. Thought I'd share a method I've found for removing bonded bushings like this super easy and quickly.

First up I used the gas torch to head up the inside of the crush tube until smoke comes out either end.

Bit of a tap...

And out it comes.

Then we do the same around the outside of the bushing. I found I didn't need much heat at all with these old bushings, but with some you will need to get it quite hot, again until smoke comes out either end of the bushing.

Then it's simply a matter of prying it out. Came out really easily.

Just clean this up with brake cleaner etc and it's good to go.

All ready for new bushes.

Bit of grease to ensure no squeaks and make it easier to get in.

Hit them in with a block of wood and a hammer.

All installed, ready to bolt back up. Because I didn't need much heat I didn't actually take any paint off, but I'll check it all out before I install it and make sure I touch up any where with some paint to avoid corrosion.

Also went and bought some or this, next mission is to take all the residue off the floor. This is the job I've been dreading... Wish me luck!

 

[GDII]

Good effort with the bushes. Second to last photo

The new bushes should provide better response for all driver inputs.

 

[Punknoodle]

Good effort with the bushes. Second to last photo

The new bushes should provide better response for all driver inputs.

Hopefully, yeah. Although I was having this discussion with someone else, it's impossible for me to say for sure what effect it has, as I'm coupling it with other work at the same time, such as lighter wheels, wider tires, less weight etc. But I hope the whole lot works together well.

Started stripping away the gunk last night. I tried a few different techniques but settled on a wire brush in my drill then cleaning the residue off with the goof off.

Not finished this section yet but it is working. Decided it was getting late so I called it a night.

Tonight I'll remove the driveshaft to investigate new centre bushes for it. Then keep going with the cleaning.

 

[Punknoodle]

Well that was a frikkin pain! I still need to do one more quick pass to clean up any little bits and pieces, but for the most part, it's done.

 

[Punknoodle]

After bolting the turbo back on the engine was in a state where it could run again, as all the coolant and oil lines were finished off again. No intake piping and no compressor housing on the turbo, but they aren't necessary for the car to run. So tonight I wanted to run it, just to give it a check over and check for leaks.

I also wanted to hear what it sounded like with only a dump pipe and short section of exhaust hooked up. I really want the car to sound louder and more aggressive at track days so this is to see what it would sound like if it was just a straight pipe all the way back. The exhaust stopped just before the cat, so there was no restrictions in the pipe and no muffling. It was bloody loud.


Other than that, have performed most of the wiring updates and I'm currently making a new seat mount which will enable me to put the seat even lower.

 

[GDII]

I'm sure I can hear a tractor in your garage but I can't see it. That is awesome. I did a similar thing with an ST215, took off the down pipe and and exhaust to fix some issues but we had to move the car so we started it up without the down pipe. Such a good sound.

Quick work doing the changes to get it running again. Good job.

 

[Punknoodle]

I'm sure I can hear a tractor in your garage but I can't see it. That is awesome. I did a similar thing with an ST215, took off the down pipe and and exhaust to fix some issues but we had to move the car so we started it up without the down pipe. Such a good sound.

Quick work doing the changes to get it running again. Good job.

Yeah the compression and poor quality of the phone mic really don't capture what it sounded like at all. Sounded bloody impressive in person though. Backfires would be off the chain.

Yeah to get it running I had to bypass the fuel relay as I've made the factory fuel control circuit redundant and ran a new one to the rear, but it's not finished at the back yet.

Next job is to drain the tank, drop the tank, replace the pump and lines and finish off the new wiring circuit that will control it. Then the pump and wiring for it will all be new, which eliminates issues with the old wiring causing voltage issues at the pump. I don't want the thing running lean on me again. I ran a new trigger control wire from the ecu, wiring it in such a way that I can manually turn on the pump from a switch. The wiring under the dash is so much neater and simpler now, Iredid a lot of it now that it's all clear access. The ecu I'm mounting in a more accessible location, and the only wiring that will be visible for it is the two braided looms, the rest I was able to tidy up. It's all about trying to make it simpler and easier to identify and rectify issues at the circuit, where there isn't a lot of time.

 

[Punknoodle]

That's how the foot wells look now. You can see the individual looms I've done for each switch that goes on the lower dash panel. Keeps it simple and tidy I think. In the passenger footwell you can see the ECU. It's not properly mounted yet, I'll be putting it a little higher, but you get the idea.

With the seat back in it starts to look like a race car...

 

[MidnightRun85]

That's how the foot wells look now. You can see the individual looms I've done for each switch that goes on the lower dash panel. Keeps it simple and tidy I think. In the passenger footwell you can see the ECU. It's not properly mounted yet, I'll be putting it a little higher, but you get the idea.

With the seat back in it starts to look like a race car...

That's looking hella racecar now.

 

[Punknoodle]

I have the rear subframe bolted back up in to place now complete with the diff. I haven't got the arms back in yet though or the driveshaft (still deciding what to do in regards to the driveshaft. I'd like to get a 1 piece made up).

Also holding on the arms, as there are some rear arms in development by a couple of different companies now that offer full adjustability, and if I go down that path I may look at getting the ST205 versions and sourcing rear ST205 axles and hubs. That way I will have a wider track and won't need to run rear spacers, and I'll have the ST205 rear brakes which are a significant upgrade from the 185 brakes. I'll be keeping my eye out for Japanese auctions.

As I've said, I'm not in a hurry and would rather take the time and build it right.

So fuel tank is out and drained, the factory pressure line looks to be nylon so that is fine to use for E85. The return and vent lines are rubber though so I'll replace those before I put the tank back in with the new pump.

I've removed the old battery mounting solution I had in the boot and now I'm planning on moving it to this location:

Also, I made a quick little bracket to hold the ECU so that's mounted up in the footwell.

I took the family car in to our local tire shop today and had 4 new tires put on it. They are primarily a Yokohama dealer so I ended up putting some on it. While I was there I asked for a price for a set of 4 Yokohama Advan AD08R 235/40/17s. The price I got is only around 200 or so more than going with the equivalent Federal 595 RSR-R, so I think I'll try the Advans out next time. They have a pretty good reputation.

 

[Punknoodle]

So... Out of silver or matte black... Which colour RPF1s do you think suits best?

 

[SVX]

Silver for me. Never really liked black wheels, it sort of masks the design and hides it in the tyre/arch lining.

 

[GDII]

SILVER!!!

Black wheels hide the design. You may as well be run steel wheels if they are black. ( You hit a nerve of mine about wheel colour )
If you are going to spend that much money on RPF1 wheels you have to see them.

 

[Punknoodle]

SILVER!!!

Black wheels hide the design. You may as well be run steel wheels if they are black. ( You hit a nerve of mine about wheel colour )
If you are going to spend that much money on RPF1 wheels you have to see them.

I actually really like the matte black design RPF1, but yes, the design is somewhat lost from a distance with black wheels. I've already made my decision, wasn't even really close for me, but I've been surprised so far by the mixed reactions. It's about 50/50.

 

[MidnightRun85]

Definitely silver.

 

[GDII]

I actually really like the matte black design RPF1, but yes, the design is somewhat lost from a distance with black wheels. I've already made my decision, wasn't even really close for me, but I've been surprised so far by the mixed reactions. It's about 50/50.

I'm only seeing 100% silver here. Unless you count yourself as 3 people! It is your car after all so don't let anyone tell you want to do. 👍

 

[Punknoodle]

I'm only seeing 100% silver here. Unless you count yourself as 3 people! It is your car after all so don't let anyone tell you want to do. 👍

No no, I'm silver too, was just curious to what others thought.

I actually like the idea of bronze too, but can't get them in my size. Being track wheels though I won't be going down the path of getting them coated so it was really only down to the available options.

 

[MidnightRun85]

No no, I'm silver too, was just curious to what others thought.

I actually like the idea of bronze too, but can't get them in my size. Being track wheels though I won't be going down the path of getting them coated so it was really only down to the available options.

I'm contemplating bronze Rota Grids for mine. Bronze is underrated these days.

 

[Punknoodle]

I'm contemplating bronze Rota Grids for mine. Bronze is underrated these days.

Yeah but... Rotas? Come on mate.

 

[GDII]

No no, I'm silver too, was just curious to what others thought.

I actually like the idea of bronze too, but can't get them in my size. Being track wheels though I won't be going down the path of getting them coated so it was really only down to the available options.

That's good. You had me worried for a moment.

I'm contemplating bronze Rota Grids for mine. Bronze is underrated these days.

Should get these instead. https://www.rayswheels.co.jp/products/wheel.php?lang=en&wheel=TE37SAGA

 

[Punknoodle]

Should get these instead. https://www.rayswheels.co.jp/products/wheel.php?lang=en&wheel=TE37SAGA

Exactly. Support the companies who have done the R&D and not just copied with inferior materials...

 

[MidnightRun85]

Exactly. Support the companies who have done the R&D and not just copied with inferior materials...

Don't know if i can stretch that far though. Really don't have the money for Rays wheels...

 

[Punknoodle]

Don't know if i can stretch that far though. Really don't have the money for Rays wheels...

I'd much rather run around on the quality rims you have currently than take a step backwards on to some Rotas just because you like the design. I know some people run Rotas and say they are ok, but I'm not a fan of companies making money out of ripping off other people's designs, especially when the original ones have been manufactured to be stronger and lighter using processes such as forging, and the replicas are just cast with cheap materials. That's a no from me.

 

[GDII]

Don't know if i can stretch that far though. Really don't have the money for Rays wheels...

I didn't have the money for Advans but I saved up over a while and went for it. Volks are quite pricey compared but when you want quality, which your car seems to be then pay the extra. I'm with Punknoodle on this. Don't pay for cheaply made knockoffs. All you are doing is putting money into the wrong persons pocket. Rays could go out of business if everyone bought Rotas. You wouldn't want that would you?

 

[Imari]

...but I'm not a fan of companies making money out of ripping off other people's designs...

To be fair, it's just a wheel. They're not super complicated, and to a certain extent there's only so many designs that can exist without pushing into crazy territory. As far as something like TE37s, there's only so much you can do with a six spoke with squared edges.

Rays are welcome to popularise the look, and they get more than enough mileage out of the brand name. I don't think there's anything to be gained by restricting other companies from making similar versions of what is ultimately a very basic design.

...especially when the original ones have been manufactured to be stronger and lighter using processes such as forging, and the replicas are just cast with cheap materials.

This is where Rays put their value in, and where the user needs to choose what they want out of their product. If you're just tooling around the streets, Rotas are fine. If you're going to be smashing your wheels into gutters as you yolo drift bro around the suburbs, no wheel on earth will stand up to that.

If you're on a track, Rays are probably a good investment if you can afford it.

Rays could go out of business if everyone bought Rotas.

But they never will, because it will never happen. They're two different products, and there are reasons to buy both. It's just that people that don't need super high performance aren't now forced to spend thousands of dollars just for the look. That's capitalism for you, the market has a need and someone met it.

 

[SVX]

Stuff can happen no matter if your wheel is genuine or not, and quality wise, supposedly Rotas have improved a lot. However, personally, I'd find it hard to bring myself to fork over my hard earned to a business that has questionable safety and even then a company who is profiting off another design. Credit where credit is due. One company provided a quality product for motorsports and car culture pioneers, and the other used it as an opportunity to get more money.

 

[Punknoodle]

To be fair, it's just a wheel. They're not super complicated, and to a certain extent there's only so many designs that can exist without pushing into crazy territory. As far as something like TE37s, there's only so much you can do with a six spoke with squared edges.

Rays are welcome to popularise the look, and they get more than enough mileage out of the brand name. I don't think there's anything to be gained by restricting other companies from making similar versions of what is ultimately a very basic design.



This is where Rays put their value in, and where the user needs to choose what they want out of their product. If you're just tooling around the streets, Rotas are fine. If you're going to be smashing your wheels into gutters as you yolo drift bro around the suburbs, no wheel on earth will stand up to that.

If you're on a track, Rays are probably a good investment if you can afford it.



But they never will, because it will never happen. They're two different products, and there are reasons to buy both. It's just that people that don't need super high performance aren't now forced to spend thousands of dollars just for the look. That's capitalism for you, the market has a need and someone met it.

You raise some very good points, one could say that MOST of the people who are buying Rota's would have been unlikely to be customers of Rays due to cost, and I accept that. I guess my way of thinking has always been more focused on the performance aspect of a product. I see what goes in to making a quality wheel like SSR, Work, Rays, Enkei etc and I just know I wouldn't be satisfied on using something that I know the same level of engineering hasn't gone in to. Even when I was only using it on the street.