RIDOX Replica Garage-In Memory of TurnLeft-GT40,300ZX,F430,TVR,AEM S2000,Cizeta,TransAm Doug Nash

[Ridox2JZGTE]

NISSAN CBA-R35 GTR SpecV '09 Replica
Real World Setup and Alignment
Tuned to replicate Nissan GTR SpecV '09
Comfort Soft​

​

CAR : Nissan GTR SpecV '09
Tire : Comfort Soft

Specs
Horsepower: 493 HP / 500 PS at 6500 RPM
Torque : 448.4 ft-lb at 3500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100 %
Weight: 1680 kg - official curb weight
Ballast : 195 kg
Ballast Position : -36
Weight Distribution : 55 / 45 as in real life
Performance Points: 535


GT AUTO
NO OIL change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED IN THIS BUILD )
Wheels : Stock
Car Paint : Silver or Red

Tuning Parts Installed :
Fully Customizable Suspension
Adjustable LSD
Weight Reduction Stage 1

​

Suspension - Bilstein Damptronic with Stock Ride Height + Factory Nissan Aggressive Street / Daily Driving Alignment
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 110 110
Spring Rate: 16.00 8.50
Dampers (Compression): 5 4
Dampers (Extension): 7 8
Anti-Roll Bars: 3 1
Camber Angle: 1.4 1.4
Toe Angle: -0.22 -0.02



LSD - 1.5 Way Rear
Front
Initial Torque : 5
Acceleration : 5
Braking : 5

Rear
Initial Torque : 14
Acceleration : 36
Braking : 5


AERO:
FRONT : 20 ( Fixed )
REAR : 20 ( Fixed )


Brake Balance:
6/8 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 6/8, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance. I recommend to run 6/8 for ABS 1.

Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 6/8 brake balance as starting point.

Notes :
Another simple replica of GTR SpecV, uses 2009 onwards stock spring rate, more aggressive alignment ( still within Nissan OEM range ) and 1.5 way rear LSD ( as real car have )

Tested at Midfield, easily lap in 1:18s on comfort soft.



ENJOY

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Nissan BCNR33 Skyline GTR VSpec '97
Tsukuba Best Motoring Lap Record
Tuned to replicate R33 GTR Vspec
Comfort Soft​

View attachment 353758
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CAR : Nissan Skyline GTR Vspec ( R33 ) '97
Tire : Comfort Soft

Specs 325HP Base Actual Dyno Power
Horsepower: 325 HP / 329 PS at 6400 RPM
Torque: 317.7 ft-lb at 4600 RPM
Power Limiter at : 97.9%
Weight: 1540 kg
Ballast : 170 kg
Ballast Position : -27
Weight Distribution : 56 / 44 - used real life 56 / 44
Performance Points: 460

Specs GT6 Stock
Horsepower: 319 HP / 323 PS at 6800 RPM
Torque: 314.6 ft-lb at 4400 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 1540 kg
Ballast : 170 kg
Ballast Position : -27
Weight Distribution : 56 / 44 - used real life 56 / 44
Performance Points: 458


GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED )
Wheels : Standard Size Stock
Car Paint : Cyberia Blue, Champion Blue or Sonic Silver


Tuning Parts Installed :
Catalytic Converter Sports -ONLY FOR 325HP
Adjustable LSD
Fully Customizable Suspension
Weight Reduction Stage 1

​

Suspension - Nissan OEM Springs/Damper
Base Street/Track Alignment
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 135 135
Spring Rate: 4.00 5.00
Dampers (Compression): 4 5
Dampers (Extension): 3 3
Anti-Roll Bars: 3 4 or OPTIONAL 3 2 for better stability
Camber Angle: 0.8 1.2 ( Camber range Front 0.8 +- 0.8, Rear 1.2 +- 0.8 )
Toe Angle: 0.06 0.18 ( Toe In Front Range 0.06 +- 0.06, Toe In Rear 0.18, Range 0.00 to Max 0.34 )

Alternate Soft Damper - Stable
Dampers (Compression): 4 2
Dampers (Extension): 3 2


LSD NISSAN A-LSD Base 2 Way - Base
Front
Initial Torque : 5
Acceleration Sensitivity: 5
Braking Sensitivity: 5

Rear
Initial Torque : 14
Acceleration Sensitivity: 36
Braking Sensitivity: 30


LSD NISSAN A-LSD Base 1.5 Way - Optional
Front
Initial Torque : 5
Acceleration Sensitivity: 5
Braking Sensitivity: 5

Rear
Initial Torque : 14
Acceleration Sensitivity: 36
Braking Sensitivity: 5

View attachment 353759​

Brake Balance:
8/8 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 6/6, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.


Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 8/8 brake balance as starting point.


Notes :


This is a simple replica build of a stock BCNR33 GTR Vspec, the Vspec is the top of the range R33 GTR with stiffer suspension and A-LSD coupled with improved ATTESA-ETS PRO. In real life R33 GTR Vspec has been dynoed with reports of around 325HP/ 330PS at the engine. The power at 325HP is base spec with optional stock GT6 power as optional.

The Vspec suspension spring rates of the real car 4.00 kg/mm front and 5.00 kg/mm rear. The spring rate can be set in GT6, with damper and ARB tuned for slight oversteer. The stock factory alignment has been used for the base suspension. A higher camber setup is optional ( use the available camber range )

The car weight is 1540kg, with weight distribution using real life spec at 56/44, and both has been replicated. This should give the close to neutral balance of the real car and oversteer when pushed hard.

LSD is set in 2 way this time, with setup giving good amount of lock and low preload. An alternate LSD with 1.5 way arrangement also provided, the 1.5 way will give much more freedom in turn in under braking.

Tire base set is comfort soft with aim to set performance against real life Tsukuba lap record which are 1:05.88 in 1995 and 1:05.73 in 1997. These times were noted in the Best Motoring videos having R33 GTR Vspec with "race" setting. The Nissan or BM crew highly likely tuned the ATTESA-ETS PRO CPU, suspension, track alignment, better brake pads, but keep the engine on stock power. The lap time performance is closer to NSX S Zero in 1997, also in 1:05s.
In GT6, the time can achieved with comfort soft tire with near perfect lap just like the real life 1:05.73 lap did, perfection at the limit. The highlight was the Tsukuba last turn, with the R33 dive late in the middle line, seemingly going under for a split second, but race alignment and the ATTESA-ETS PRO allow the car to rotate with slight oversteer giving the driver ability to full throttle to finish line. This is the result optimized tune mentioned as 'Race' setting in BM.

The slower R33 GTR times that were done on totally stock R33 GTR were in 1:07-1:08s range, 1:07.09 and 1:08.59. This should be with comfort medium.

The R33 was mainly tested and tuned at Tsukuba. The replay of the lap at 1:05s has been included, the lap was done with 325HP spec to match the real lap acceleration/speed/RPM at braking entry and exit. Suspension uses base set and 2 way LSD.

UPDATE : Added optional ARB for better stability mid corner to exit, tested at Spa.

R33 GTR has been updated, added optional ARB at 3 2 for better stability from mid corner to exit.

 

[Zach R]

NISSAN CBA-R35 GTR SpecV '09 Replica
Real World Setup and Alignment
Tuned to replicate Nissan GTR SpecV '09
Comfort Soft​

View attachment 556461
​

CAR : Nissan GTR SpecV '09
Tire : Comfort Soft

Specs
Horsepower: 493 HP / 500 PS at 6500 RPM
Torque : 448.4 ft-lb at 3500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100 %
Weight: 1680 kg - official curb weight
Ballast : 195 kg
Ballast Position : -36
Weight Distribution : 55 / 45 as in real life
Performance Points: 535


GT AUTO
NO OIL change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED IN THIS BUILD )
Wheels : Stock
Car Paint : Silver or Red

Tuning Parts Installed :
Fully Customizable Suspension
Adjustable LSD
Weight Reduction Stage 1

View attachment 556459
​

Suspension - Bilstein Damptronic with Stock Ride Height + Factory Nissan Aggressive Street / Daily Driving Alignment
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 110 110
Spring Rate: 16.00 8.50
Dampers (Compression): 5 4
Dampers (Extension): 7 8
Anti-Roll Bars: 3 1
Camber Angle: 1.4 1.4
Toe Angle: -0.22 -0.02



LSD - 1.5 Way Rear
Front
Initial Torque : 5
Acceleration : 5
Braking : 5

Rear
Initial Torque : 14
Acceleration : 36
Braking : 5


AERO:
FRONT : 20 ( Fixed )
REAR : 20 ( Fixed )


Brake Balance:
6/8 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 6/8, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance. I recommend to run 6/8 for ABS 1.

Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 6/8 brake balance as starting point.

View attachment 556460​

Notes :
Another simple replica of GTR SpecV, uses 2009 onwards stock spring rate, more aggressive alignment ( still within Nissan OEM range ) and 1.5 way rear LSD ( as real car have )

Tested at Midfield, easily lap in 1:18s on comfort soft.



ENJOY

Just got to drive this. I was impressed. It definitely felt more what a GT-R Should feel like.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

@Ridox2JZGTE I just tried your Ayrton Senna tribute Acura NSX and I am seriously impressed. I have been getting less enjoyment from GT6 ever since I started playing PC sims 2 years ago, because all of the cars just feels wrong to me. But after applying your tune it completely transformed the feel of the car. I would say it gives Niels NSX in rFactor 1 and the mod NSX in Assetto Corsa a run for their money! When pushed hard the deficiencies in GT's tire and suspension modelling still shows, but if you just drive it at 90% it is very realistic and believable. I drove it at Suzuka and I was completely on the edge at Spoon 1, with my steering and throttle stabs just like Senna's It was fantastic and thank you for restoring my faith in this game 👍 I will definitely check out the rest of your tunes. Should keep me busy until GTS later in the year

PS: With regards to your tuning approach, do you input exact real life numbers into the settings, or you used whatever means necessary to make it handle like the real car, even if you have to fudge the numbers? Also, interesting use of ballast to make the weight distribution more accurate. I thought that's going to make the handling worse (because of more rear bias), but somehow your suspension magic makes it handle better. I can't believe PD completely mucked up the stock specs for the NSX. Do the GT community a favour and apply to PD as Lead Physics Engineer please?

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Just got to drive this. I was impressed. It definitely felt more what a GT-R Should feel like.

Thank you, try the other Skyline GTR if you are interested ( R32-R34 )

@Ridox2JZGTE I just tried your Ayrton Senna tribute Acura NSX and I am seriously impressed. I have been getting less enjoyment from GT6 ever since I started playing PC sims 2 years ago, because all of the cars just feels wrong to me. But after applying your tune it completely transformed the feel of the car. I would say it gives Niels NSX in rFactor 1 and the mod NSX in Assetto Corsa a run for their money! When pushed hard the deficiencies in GT's tire and suspension modelling still shows, but if you just drive it at 90% it is very realistic and believable. I drove it at Suzuka and I was completely on the edge at Spoon 1, with my steering and throttle stabs just like Senna's It was fantastic and thank you for restoring my faith in this game 👍 I will definitely check out the rest of your tunes. Should keep me busy until GTS later in the year

PS: With regards to your tuning approach, do you input exact real life numbers into the settings, or you used whatever means necessary to make it handle like the real car, even if you have to fudge the numbers? Also, interesting use of ballast to make the weight distribution more accurate. I thought that's going to make the handling worse (because of more rear bias), but somehow your suspension magic makes it handle better. I can't believe PD completely mucked up the stock specs for the NSX. Do the GT community a favour and apply to PD as Lead Physics Engineer please?

Thank you Legend-1 Now imagine GTS have more realistic tire model, better suspension and drivetrain model, with a properly setup car for realism, it should be decent enough compared to the likes of AC and PCars.

Regarding tuning, I used real life number where possible ( depend on data availability ), usually damper and ARB are custom tuned to work with whatever data I have like spring rate, ride height, weight/distribution and LSD. I usually fudge the spring rate ( adapting the ratio front to rear when GT6 spring rate range not possible to achieve real value ), this usually leads to stiffer rate, and I have to compensate with lower ARB and softer damper. Alignment like camber and toe are straight forward, adapt the values as they are, although often OEM range are wide enough to give me custom setup. The funny thing is although camber seems to be broken or not working as intended, the real value actually give closer level of grip to the real car. I haven't found a car with real life camber/toe spec that grips worse than similar car in real life ( with similar tire grip level )- this can be noticed when I have real life onboard cam lap, like at Tsukuba ( cornering speed, braking point and how early the throttle applied on exit are usually similar ). People who played GT6 often got used to high grip tune/tire and forgetting that real life is much slower/less grip, and they would find similar situation in games like AC and Pcars, where grip is not as high.

For weight distribution, it all depends on how well the ARB, spring and damper being setup to support the rear heavy bias and the balance aimed by the driver. The tire stagger in GT6 also have huge effect on MR car stability when turning and exiting a corner, the Countach 25th Anniversary is great example. The magic is not really magic, on most MR cars the balance of front and rear damper extension could greatly helped MR stability, lower front extension may cause lift on hard acceleration or gradual throttle understeer ( on AWD and FF car the effect can be opposite ), lower rear extension decreases rotation/eagerness to turn. Making the damper works with chosen ARB is what makes MR car can be great or bad.

PD messed up almost all cars in GT6 stock setup, from the crazy stock toe in, camber and generally stiff springs than real life counterpart. As for me becoming PD employee, nah, that would be impossible, I have no credential or qualification to be physics lead, all I can do is apply my own knowledge/experience in setting up cars, do research on real car data and adapt them. I did all these for fun, a way for me to enjoy GT6 ( I just like driving, tuning and driving some more, even when alone on track )


Here is another example of how grip often too much, I tested NISMO GTR GT3 replica at Spa, I ran the replay side by side with Nick McMillen GTR GT3 qualifying lap at 24H Spa, the GT3 in GT6 has huge camber and toe, and on similar tire grip level ( used RH tire ), the braking point, the speed around corners, where I lifted the gas, and the lines are very similar. GT6 GT3 GTR seems to be a bit slower in acceleration on 4th and 5th gear, but faster reaching top speed in 6th than real GT3, I blamed the aero model bug ( less drag on high speed ) I had to fine tune the power of GT6 GTR GT3 to match the BOP GTR GT3 at 24H Spa ( very close HP figure for both cars )

 

[LeGeNd-1]

Thank you, try the other Skyline GTR if you are interested ( R32-R34 )



Thank you Legend-1 Now imagine GTS have more realistic tire model, better suspension and drivetrain model, with a properly setup car for realism, it should be decent enough compared to the likes of AC and PCars.

Regarding tuning, I used real life number where possible ( depend on data availability ), usually damper and ARB are custom tuned to work with whatever data I have like spring rate, ride height, weight/distribution and LSD. I usually fudge the spring rate ( adapting the ratio front to rear when GT6 spring rate range not possible to achieve real value ), this usually leads to stiffer rate, and I have to compensate with lower ARB and softer damper. Alignment like camber and toe are straight forward, adapt the values as they are, although often OEM range are wide enough to give me custom setup. The funny thing is although camber seems to be broken or not working as intended, the real value actually give closer level of grip to the real car. I haven't found a car with real life camber/toe spec that grips worse than similar car in real life ( with similar tire grip level )- this can be noticed when I have real life onboard cam lap, like at Tsukuba ( cornering speed, braking point and how early the throttle applied on exit are usually similar ). People who played GT6 often got used to high grip tune/tire and forgetting that real life is much slower/less grip, and they would find similar situation in games like AC and Pcars, where grip is not as high.

For weight distribution, it all depends on how well the ARB, spring and damper being setup to support the rear heavy bias and the balance aimed by the driver. The tire stagger in GT6 also have huge effect on MR car stability when turning and exiting a corner, the Countach 25th Anniversary is great example. The magic is not really magic, on most MR cars the balance of front and rear damper extension could greatly helped MR stability, lower front extension increases turn in/steering response ( on AWD and FF car the effect can be opposite ), lower rear extension decreases rotation/eagerness to turn. Making the damper works with chosen ARB is what makes MR car can be great or bad.

PD messed up almost all cars in GT6 stock setup, from the crazy stock toe in, camber and generally stiff springs than real life counterpart. As for me becoming PD employee, nah, that would be impossible, I have no credential or qualification to be physics lead, all I can do is apply my own knowledge/experience in setting up cars, do research on real car data and adapt them. I did all these for fun, a way for me to enjoy GT6 ( I just like driving, tuning and driving some more, even when alone on track )


Here is another example of how grip often too much, I tested NISMO GTR GT3 replica at Spa, I ran the replay side by side with Nick McMillen GTR GT3 qualifying lap at 24H Spa, the GT3 in GT6 has huge camber and toe, and on similar tire grip level ( used RH tire ), the braking point, the speed around corners, where I lifted the gas, and the lines are very similar. GT6 GT3 GTR seems to be a bit slower in acceleration on 4th and 5th gear, but faster reaching top speed in 6th than real GT3, I blamed the aero model bug ( less drag on high speed ) I had to fine tune the power of GT6 GTR GT3 to match the BOP GTR GT3 at 24H Spa ( very close HP figure for both cars )

Yes, I'm hoping GTS will improve things further. I'm not expecting it to beat the likes of AC, rF or LFS, but it should be closer than GT6. And with your tunes hopefully that will be 95% of the experience 👍

Thanks also for that insightful post. It can't be helped that some suspension values are outside the range allowed in GT. As long as the final product is close to real life that can be forgiven for not using exact values. As for the lack of grip, I'm used to using Comfort tyres on road cars so it's ok. In general GT has too much grip on stock tires, but the FFB is just very poor at conveying grip so the "feeling" is less. Compared to AC for example where grip levels are accurate (low), but you get so much feedback through the wheel so you understand what's going on at all times.

I'm confused about this part though:
Lower front extension increases turn in/steering response - I thought lower numbers = easier to extend = easier to shift weight backwards = less weight over front axle = decrease turn in.
Lower rear extension decreases rotation/eagerness to turn - I thought lower numbers = easier to extend = easier to shift weight forwards = more weight over front axle = more turn in.

Don't worry about credentials mate. To me you have done what PD couldn't do in almost 20 years - make a car drive like an actual car. That counts for a lot, especially since all you have are the settings screen in the game. I'm hoping that a lot of inaccurate specs will be fixed in GTS, but I doubt that's the case. We need people like you at PD's headquarters to teach Kaz and the rest of the team what true reality is 👍👍

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Yes, I'm hoping GTS will improve things further. I'm not expecting it to beat the likes of AC, rF or LFS, but it should be closer than GT6. And with your tunes hopefully that will be 95% of the experience 👍

Thanks also for that insightful post. It can't be helped that some suspension values are outside the range allowed in GT. As long as the final product is close to real life that can be forgiven for not using exact values. As for the lack of grip, I'm used to using Comfort tyres on road cars so it's ok. In general GT has too much grip on stock tires, but the FFB is just very poor at conveying grip so the "feeling" is less. Compared to AC for example where grip levels are accurate (low), but you get so much feedback through the wheel so you understand what's going on at all times.

I'm confused about this part though:
Lower front extension increases turn in/steering response - I thought lower numbers = easier to extend = easier to shift weight backwards = less weight over front axle = decrease turn in.
Lower rear extension decreases rotation/eagerness to turn - I thought lower numbers = easier to extend = easier to shift weight forwards = more weight over front axle = more turn in.

Don't worry about credentials mate. To me you have done what PD couldn't do in almost 20 years - make a car drive like an actual car. That counts for a lot, especially since all you have are the settings screen in the game. I'm hoping that a lot of inaccurate specs will be fixed in GTS, but I doubt that's the case. We need people like you at PD's headquarters to teach Kaz and the rest of the team what true reality is 👍👍

FFB is one of the weakness in GT games, people have been saying this for a long time, don't know why PD not making FFB better in GT6

For damper, they are from what I found tuning in GT6, for cars with rear wheel drive FR/MR ( usually have less weight on front axle than FF cars ), lower front extension I think means faster extend, relatively faster rate of weight sent away from the front.

The slower extend - higher extension on front axle, the less rate of the weight being sent away from front ( when not braking ), the effect is more pronounced on FF/FWD ( front heavy ) and AWD cars ( needs front traction for steering ), although too much can lead to understeer. If you want to test further, try the Nissan GTR Spec V above, notice how high the front and rear damper extension, try lower the front extension only, then rear extension only ( original 7 front ext and 8 rear ext, try 2 front ext then 2 rear ext ), drive each time to see the difference in steering, braking and out of corner. For more, increase only front extension to 10/max, and notice how handling is affected.

For rear extension, on MR and FR cars easily noticeable under braking than other situation ( FF/FWD cars too for braking ), and I should add, rotation on exit. Lower rear extension hasten the weight transferred to the front in GT6, when you increase it to close to 10/too much, under braking, the rear easier to loses grip/oversteer ( IRL may cause tire lift ), setting it too low may induce understeer and rear tire popping up ( depend on front compression )
With higher rear extension, the car (RWD) tend to get easier to steer/change direction under full throttle load ( also when throttle is lifted ) in GT6. If you want to test further, drive the Acura NSX again, it has quite low rear extension ( 4 ), increase that to 7 or 8 ( keep others same ), and drive at Suzuka, feel the effect at the first half of the track, the 1st deep braking. For the front extension, the NSX has low value as well ( 2 ), I set up that way to get good balance, try increase it to 8 or 9 ( rear stays at 4 ), notice how much steering you need to do and how higher front extension gives different effect than GTR SpecV ( NSX is rear heavy MR and GTR front heavy AWD )

Front damper extension and rear damper compression has connection for acceleration ( more pronounced on AWD and RWD )

Front damper compression and rear damper extension has connection for braking.

The damper and weight transfer physics in GT6 is still lacking IMO and bear in mind, the 1 to 10 values for damper do not mean 1 to 10 in strenght, each suspension/car have specific damper curve ( 4 way ) preset ( hidden ), so a R35 GTR front compression at 1 is not the same as Acura NSX front compression at 1. So when looking at damper values, the numbers do not represent clearly, say front compression 1 and extension 8, do not mean extension force 8 times more than compression. The front extension value range hidden from us could be increased only marginally even when set at 10 in game.

The damper as dynamic springs is set to work with springs and ARB, hence it will always be last in suspension tuning flow.

Hope I explained clearly, but the best way is to try it / practice it, the Acura NSX and GTR SpecV both are good for test bed.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

FFB is one of the weakness in GT games, people have been saying this for a long time, don't know why PD not making FFB better in GT6

For damper, they are from what I found tuning in GT6, for cars with rear wheel drive FR/MR ( usually have less weight on front axle than FF cars ), lower front extension I think means faster extend, relatively faster rate of weight sent away from the front.

The slower extend - higher extension on front axle, the less rate of the weight being sent away from front ( when not braking ), the effect is more pronounced on FF/FWD ( front heavy ) and AWD cars ( needs front traction for steering ), although too much can lead to understeer. If you want to test further, try the Nissan GTR Spec V above, notice how high the front and rear damper extension, try lower the front extension only, then rear extension only ( original 7 front ext and 8 rear ext, try 2 front ext then 2 rear ext ), drive each time to see the difference in steering, braking and out of corner. For more, increase only front extension to 10/max, and notice how handling is affected.

For rear extension, on MR and FR cars easily noticeable under braking than other situation ( FF/FWD cars too for braking ), and I should add, rotation on exit. Lower rear extension hasten the weight transferred to the front in GT6, when you increase it to close to 10/too much, under braking, the rear easier to loses grip/oversteer ( IRL may cause tire lift ), setting it too low may induce understeer and rear tire popping up ( depend on front compression )
With higher rear extension, the car (RWD) tend to get easier to steer/change direction under full throttle load ( also when throttle is lifted ) in GT6. If you want to test further, drive the Acura NSX again, it has quite low rear extension ( 4 ), increase that to 7 or 8 ( keep others same ), and drive at Suzuka, feel the effect at the first half of the track, the 1st deep braking. For the front extension, the NSX has low value as well ( 2 ), I set up that way to get good balance, try increase it to 8 or 9 ( rear stays at 4 ), notice how much steering you need to do and how higher front extension gives different effect than GTR SpecV ( NSX is rear heavy MR and GTR front heavy AWD )

Front damper extension and rear damper compression has connection for acceleration ( more pronounced on AWD and RWD )

Front damper compression and rear damper extension has connection for braking.

The damper and weight transfer physics in GT6 is still lacking IMO and bear in mind, the 1 to 10 values for damper do not mean 1 to 10 in strenght, each suspension/car have specific damper curve ( 4 way ) preset ( hidden ), so a R35 GTR front compression at 1 is not the same as Acura NSX front compression at 1. So when looking at damper values, the numbers do not represent clearly, say front compression 1 and extension 8, do not mean extension force 8 times more than compression. The front extension value range hidden from us could be increased only marginally even when set at 10 in game.

The damper as dynamic springs is set to work with springs and ARB, hence it will always be last in suspension tuning flow.

Hope I explained clearly, but the best way is to try it / practice it, the Acura NSX and GTR SpecV both are good for test bed.

Right, it's going to take me some time to test out all that.

Just to make this clear though, we are talking about how dampers work in GT6, and NOT in real life? Because I know a couple of things are wrong/reversed in GT6, so I don't want to confuse my real life principles with the tuning in this game.

From my understanding, in real life:

1) Low front extension = weight transferred to the rear faster on acceleration = more rear grip = less exit oversteer (up to a point for rear heavy cars)
2) Low rear compression = same as 1)

3) Low front compression = weight transferred to the front faster on braking = more front grip = less entry understeer (up to a point for front heavy cars)
4) Low rear extension = same as 3)

From reading your post above I get the impression that the real life principle holds true for FWD/AWD cars, but it's reversed for MR/RR cars in GT6? I suspect it's got to do with the weird physics of rear heavy cars in the game (Stratos, Lotus Europa, Diablo, R8 LMS comes to mind).

I also absolutely hate unit-less tuning parameters in this game. PD really needs to move on from their archaic tuning screen. We at least need units for dampers, ARB, brake balance, LSD and downforce. Also add graph lines to the hp/torque curve and gear ratios screen. And do away with all the "--" specs for cars. The numbers are all there PD, you don't need to lie to us just because it's a concept car.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Right, it's going to take me some time to test out all that.

Just to make this clear though, we are talking about how dampers work in GT6, and NOT in real life? Because I know a couple of things are wrong/reversed in GT6, so I don't want to confuse my real life principles with the tuning in this game.

From my understanding, in real life:
Low front extension = weight transferred to the rear faster on acceleration = more rear grip = less exit oversteer (up to a point for rear heavy cars)
Low rear extension = weight transferred to the front faster on braking = more front grip = less entry understeer (up to a point for front heavy cars)

From reading your post above I get the impression that the real life principle holds true for FWD/AWD cars, but it's reversed for MR/RR cars? I suspect it's got to do with the weird physics of rear heavy cars in the game (Stratos, Lotus Europa, Diablo, R8 LMS comes to mind).

Yes, I'm talking about GT6 damper tuning.

You have to consider that damper adjustment affect both axle and has to be done on both, lowering/increasing front extension also need to look at the rear damper compression ( too much rear compression also causes oversteer ) In GT6, there's a peak valley for damper, too low not good, too high also not good.

Damper in GT6 works differently on different drivetrain / layout as front heavy or rear heavy + FWD/AWD + RWD cars requires different approach, the low rear extension - rear tire pop up, more front grip under braking ( some cars already have front heavy bias, some are not like RR/MR ), it will lessen understeer when there's not enough weight on the front, but when the front overloaded ( low front compression, low spring rate, weak ARB, front heavy ), understeer occurs. With FWD with 60+% weight, you don't want too much weight sent to the front when braking, hence higher rear damper extension is the norm, this also applies to AWD cars which prone to push. Front extension also have an effect when not braking in GT6, steering/turning on throttle varies depending on the low or high front extension ( different effect on FWD/AWD vs RWD cars/MR/RR/FR ), again too high can lead to push on throttle on certain drivetrain.

In GT6, the rear damper extension also have effect when changing direction/turning ( on throttle ), for RWD cars, low rear extension tend to give slower reaction rear end and higher extension can make the rear easier to oversteer. Not sure if the same occurs in AC or Pcars, but you can try lower damper rear rebound to minimum then maximum on RWD road cars and see the effect when turning.

You can't use just one factor in one situation as measurement of realistic behavior ( damper extension under braking or accel only ), both rear and front damper works in synergy aiding the spring and ARB to manage weight of the car under different loads. Doing the test I wrote on NSX and GTR is best way to see the effect of damper extension on both ends, as I have set both cars to be finely balanced, extreme changes on the either end damper extension would easily shown the effect.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

Yes, I'm talking about GT6 damper tuning.

You have to consider that damper adjustment affect both axle and has to be done on both, lowering/increasing front extension also need to look at the rear damper compression ( too much rear compression also causes oversteer ) In GT6, there's a peak valley for damper, too low not good, too high also not good.

Damper in GT6 works differently on different drivetrain / layout as front heavy or rear heavy + FWD/AWD + RWD cars requires different approach, the low rear extension - rear tire pop up, more front grip under braking ( some cars already have front heavy bias, some are not like RR/MR ), it will lessen understeer when there's not enough weight on the front, but when the front overloaded ( low front compression, low spring rate, weak ARB, front heavy ), understeer occurs. With FWD with 60+% weight, you don't want too much weight sent to the front when braking, hence higher rear damper extension is the norm, this also applies to AWD cars which prone to push. Front extension also have an effect when not braking in GT6, steering/turning on throttle varies depending on the low or high front extension ( different effect on FWD/AWD vs RWD cars/MR/RR/FR ), again too high can lead to push on throttle on certain drivetrain.

In GT6, the rear damper extension also have effect when changing direction/turning ( on throttle ), for RWD cars, low rear extension tend to give slower reaction rear end and higher extension can make the rear easier to oversteer. Not sure if the same occurs in AC or Pcars, but you can try lower damper rear rebound to minimum then maximum on RWD road cars and see the effect when turning.

You can't use just one factor in one situation as measurement of realistic behavior ( damper extension under braking or accel only ), both rear and front damper works in synergy aiding the spring and ARB to manage weight of the car under different loads. Doing the test I wrote on NSX and GTR is best way to see the effect of damper extension on both ends, as I have set both cars to be finely balanced, extreme changes on the either end damper extension would easily shown the effect.

Okay, so basically damper tuning in GT6 is still an iterative process and you can't carry over real life principles. It makes it easier to understand if I don't have to turn my mind 180 degrees everytime Also I assume the "peak valley" as you mentioned is different for all the cars, so there's no set rule to tuning damper basically. It's all just trial & error.

I'm still confused by this though:

"In GT6, the rear damper extension also have effect when changing direction/turning ( on throttle ), for RWD cars, low rear extension tend to give slower reaction rear end and higher extension can make the rear easier to oversteer."

When on throttle you should be loading (compressing) the rear wheels so there should be no rear damper extension going on. Unless you're going over some pretty bad bumps. So this setting shouldn't have too much of an effect. Or is this just one of those things in GT6 that doesn't work as it should?

Matter of fact, I'm getting confused about damper extension now Higher numbers = more stiff, correct? Does increasing stiffness help retain weight on that end or help "bounce" it away from that end? I've read so many sources throughout the years on tuning and they all say different things. I can get a handle on all other aspects of tuning, but damper extension just makes my head explode

Thanks for your patience in explaining things though 👍 I have difficulty accepting concepts just at face value. I need to understand the physics behind it. Once I do it's a lot easier to remember what all the tuning changes does

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Okay, so basically damper tuning in GT6 is still an iterative process and you can't carry over real life principles. It makes it easier to understand if I don't have to turn my mind 180 degrees everytime Also I assume the "peak valley" as you mentioned is different for all the cars, so there's no set rule to tuning damper basically. It's all just trial & error.

I'm still confused by this though:

"In GT6, the rear damper extension also have effect when changing direction/turning ( on throttle ), for RWD cars, low rear extension tend to give slower reaction rear end and higher extension can make the rear easier to oversteer."

When on throttle you should be loading the rear wheels so there should be no rear damper extension going on. Unless you're going over some pretty bad bumps. So this setting shouldn't have too much of an effect. Or is this just one of those things in GT6 that doesn't work as it should?

Matter of fact, I'm getting confused about damper extension now Higher numbers = more stiff, correct? Does increasing stiffness help retain weight on that end or help "bounce" it away from that end? I've read so many sources throughout the years on tuning and they all say different things. I can get a handle on all other aspects of tuning, but damper extension just makes my head explode

Thanks for your patience in explaining things though 👍 I have difficulty accepting concepts just at face value I need to understand the physics behind it. Once I do it's a lot easier to remember what all the tuning changes does.

When I tune damper, it's not really just trial and error, there's a process involved, similar to real life damper tuning ( also there's trial/error, especially when driver+engineer involved ) True that real life damper physics do not transfer directly to GT6, there are some things that are either simplified or tied together to reduce complexity. I also have difficulties at first in GT6, but with practice building many replicas, I see more and more the pattern in certain cars ( FWD/AWD , RWD, weight distribution-FF,FR,MR/RR )


If you are confused, it's best to just drive the cars I mentioned, make a note changes on either side of extension ( front/rear ). Usually you can break my cars simply by altering the damper extension - making it push or twitchy/oversteer.

I'm going to post Mazda MX5 NC soon, that car is very easy platform to play around with damper, the base setup I have is very soft and balanced, so an increase to front/rear extension should be easily felt.

 

[OdeFinn]

I'm still confused by this though:

"In GT6, the rear damper extension also have effect when changing direction/turning ( on throttle ), for RWD cars, low rear extension tend to give slower reaction rear end and higher extension can make the rear easier to oversteer."

When on throttle you should be loading (compressing) the rear wheels so there should be no rear damper extension going on. Unless you're going over some pretty bad bumps. So this setting shouldn't have too much of an effect. Or is this just one of those things in GT6 that doesn't work as it should?

High extension rate on rear damper resist too much spring and leaves wheel flying above ground for milliseconds before touching again ground, wheel spinning continues while wheel is airborne and hitting again ground will easily skid, again sudden kick on ground with spinning wheel cause it to bounce and again your wheel is airborne and high extension values resist landing again..

Above case can be solved by dampers, arb or just spring changes, stiffening spring rate allows you to use higher extension value on dampers.

That @Ridox2JZGTE mentioned valley is relative to your spring rate (of course car, and so on), but all these are running on one rule of thumb, Hz rate of springs/suspension, similar Hz suspension and identical damper setup could be used. Determining Hz rate on GT6 is tricky, you find yourself on ±0.5 Hz range, but i.e. You have car with f300%/r350% springs, carrying of car weight load 3-3.5 times you can use full suspension settings on other 300%/350% spring loaded car and find them working fine, identical dampers and arb, even toe and relatively ride right, directly from Stratos to Miata.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

When I tune damper, it's not really just trial and error, there's a process involved, similar to real life damper tuning ( also there's trial/error, especially when driver+engineer involved ) True that real life damper physics do not transfer directly to GT6, there are some things that are either simplified or tied together to reduce complexity. I also have difficulties at first in GT6, but with practice building many replicas, I see more and more the pattern in certain cars ( FWD/AWD , RWD, weight distribution-FF,FR,MR/RR )

Ah, I didn't mean trial and error as stabbing in the dark. More like you just don't know whether increasing values cause over/understeer in a particular car, unless you try it out first. Compared to something obvious like, say, spring rate where it's clear cut that lower front = less understeer, higher rear = more oversteer. With dampers it can go both ways depending on the weight distribution.

I just tested both the NSX and GT-R R35. Picked Suzuka East and Tsukuba (because they're both short, and has wide variety of corners - Tsukuba for sustained cornering, Suzuka for direction changes). I only tested extension because compression is obvious. Kept all other variables the same, except the one I'm testing. Low = 1, high = 10.

NSX
Front: low extension = oversteer, high extension = understeer
Rear: low extension = oversteer, high extension = understeer

GT-R
Front: low extension = oversteer, high extension = understeer
Rear: low extension = understeer, high extension = oversteer

Based on those results, my thinking of smaller numbers = less resistance = weight transferred quicker to the other end is correct. The differentiating factor between the 2 cars is the weight distribution. Shift too much weight to the already heavy end --> you overload and slide that end.

Does this seem right to you?

If you are confused, it's best to just drive the cars I mentioned, make a note changes on either side of extension ( front/rear ). Usually you can break my cars simply by altering the damper extension - making it push or twitchy/oversteer.

I'm going to post Mazda MX5 NC soon, that car is very easy platform to play around with damper, the base setup I have is very soft and balanced, so an increase to front/rear extension should be easily felt.

I think I'm gonna do just that This whole thing is just for me to try and figure out if there are any hard and fast rules to damper tuning. Seems like there isn't, so I'll just have to do it the long winded way if I ever want to tune cars on my own.

Good thing GT doesn't have damper fast/slow settings as well That will drive me even crazier

 

[LeGeNd-1]

Sorry for the double post guys, but the last post was quite long so I thought it's better to split it up.

High extension rate on rear damper resist too much spring and leaves wheel flying above ground for milliseconds before touching again ground, wheel spinning continues while wheel is airborne and hitting again ground will easily skid, again sudden kick on ground with spinning wheel cause it to bounce and again your wheel is airborne and high extension values resist landing again..

Ok, but in that scenario we were talking about on throttle conditions. Why would the rear wheel be leaving the ground in that situation?

If we were talking about off throttle/braking conditions, where the rear end is lifting up that's understandable.

That @Ridox2JZGTE mentioned valley is relative to your spring rate (of course car, and so on), but all these are running on one rule of thumb, Hz rate of springs/suspension, similar Hz suspension and identical damper setup could be used. Determining Hz rate on GT6 is tricky, you find yourself on ±0.5 Hz range, but i.e. You have car with f300%/r350% springs, carrying of car weight load 3-3.5 times you can use full suspension settings on other 300%/350% spring loaded car and find them working fine, identical dampers and arb, even toe and relatively ride right, directly from Stratos to Miata.

Yes, I'm aware the sweet spot for suspension tuning is different from car to car. I'm just wondering if there are any thumb rules for the direction of change (lower = more understeer, higher = more oversteer, etc). Seems like there aren't any with dampers, just trial & error according to the car's weight is my conclusion. Makes sense then that cars with the same weight distribution will do well with similar damper settings.

As always with these kinds of things, the more experience you have the better you will be. It's all just pattern recognition 👍

 

[OdeFinn]

Nissan BCNR33 Skyline GTR VSpec '97
Tsukuba Best Motoring Lap Record
Tuned to replicate R33 GTR Vspec
Comfort Soft​

View attachment 353758
​

CAR : Nissan Skyline GTR Vspec ( R33 ) '97
Tire : Comfort Soft

Specs 325HP Base Actual Dyno Power
Horsepower: 325 HP / 329 PS at 6400 RPM
Torque: 317.7 ft-lb at 4600 RPM
Power Limiter at : 97.9%
Weight: 1540 kg
Ballast : 170 kg
Ballast Position : -27
Weight Distribution : 56 / 44 - used real life 56 / 44
Performance Points: 460

Specs GT6 Stock
Horsepower: 319 HP / 323 PS at 6800 RPM
Torque: 314.6 ft-lb at 4400 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 1540 kg
Ballast : 170 kg
Ballast Position : -27
Weight Distribution : 56 / 44 - used real life 56 / 44
Performance Points: 458


GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED )
Wheels : Standard Size Stock
Car Paint : Cyberia Blue, Champion Blue or Sonic Silver


Tuning Parts Installed :
Catalytic Converter Sports -ONLY FOR 325HP
Adjustable LSD
Fully Customizable Suspension
Weight Reduction Stage 1

​

Suspension - Nissan OEM Springs/Damper
Base Street/Track Alignment
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 135 135
Spring Rate: 4.00 5.00
Dampers (Compression): 4 5
Dampers (Extension): 3 3
Anti-Roll Bars: 3 4 or OPTIONAL 3 2 for better stability
Camber Angle: 0.8 1.2 ( Camber range Front 0.8 +- 0.8, Rear 1.2 +- 0.8 )
Toe Angle: 0.06 0.18 ( Toe In Front Range 0.06 +- 0.06, Toe In Rear 0.18, Range 0.00 to Max 0.34 )

Alternate Soft Damper - Stable
Dampers (Compression): 4 2
Dampers (Extension): 3 2


LSD NISSAN A-LSD Base 2 Way - Base
Front
Initial Torque : 5
Acceleration Sensitivity: 5
Braking Sensitivity: 5

Rear
Initial Torque : 14
Acceleration Sensitivity: 36
Braking Sensitivity: 30


LSD NISSAN A-LSD Base 1.5 Way - Optional
Front
Initial Torque : 5
Acceleration Sensitivity: 5
Braking Sensitivity: 5

Rear
Initial Torque : 14
Acceleration Sensitivity: 36
Braking Sensitivity: 5

View attachment 353759​

Brake Balance:
8/8 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 6/6, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.


Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 8/8 brake balance as starting point.


Notes :


This is a simple replica build of a stock BCNR33 GTR Vspec, the Vspec is the top of the range R33 GTR with stiffer suspension and A-LSD coupled with improved ATTESA-ETS PRO. In real life R33 GTR Vspec has been dynoed with reports of around 325HP/ 330PS at the engine. The power at 325HP is base spec with optional stock GT6 power as optional.

The Vspec suspension spring rates of the real car 4.00 kg/mm front and 5.00 kg/mm rear. The spring rate can be set in GT6, with damper and ARB tuned for slight oversteer. The stock factory alignment has been used for the base suspension. A higher camber setup is optional ( use the available camber range )

The car weight is 1540kg, with weight distribution using real life spec at 56/44, and both has been replicated. This should give the close to neutral balance of the real car and oversteer when pushed hard.

LSD is set in 2 way this time, with setup giving good amount of lock and low preload. An alternate LSD with 1.5 way arrangement also provided, the 1.5 way will give much more freedom in turn in under braking.

Tire base set is comfort soft with aim to set performance against real life Tsukuba lap record which are 1:05.88 in 1995 and 1:05.73 in 1997. These times were noted in the Best Motoring videos having R33 GTR Vspec with "race" setting. The Nissan or BM crew highly likely tuned the ATTESA-ETS PRO CPU, suspension, track alignment, better brake pads, but keep the engine on stock power. The lap time performance is closer to NSX S Zero in 1997, also in 1:05s.
In GT6, the time can achieved with comfort soft tire with near perfect lap just like the real life 1:05.73 lap did, perfection at the limit. The highlight was the Tsukuba last turn, with the R33 dive late in the middle line, seemingly going under for a split second, but race alignment and the ATTESA-ETS PRO allow the car to rotate with slight oversteer giving the driver ability to full throttle to finish line. This is the result optimized tune mentioned as 'Race' setting in BM.

The slower R33 GTR times that were done on totally stock R33 GTR were in 1:07-1:08s range, 1:07.09 and 1:08.59. This should be with comfort medium.

The R33 was mainly tested and tuned at Tsukuba. The replay of the lap at 1:05s has been included, the lap was done with 325HP spec to match the real lap acceleration/speed/RPM at braking entry and exit. Suspension uses base set and 2 way LSD.

UPDATE : Added optional ARB for better stability mid corner to exit, tested at Spa.

To prove my Hz speak, I transferred this setup to Stratos, and find it pretty good to drive:
Comfort soft as on tune above:
135/135
2.06/4.53 (direct copy was 1.909/4.194, lowest on Stratos front was 2.06, so transferred same ratio from that 2.06 to rear)
4/5
3/3
3/2
0.8/1.2
0.06/0.18
And rear LSD 14/36/30

Car is 110% better than many "good tuner" Stratos tune there.
Car is good on any power upgrades, but keeping same power/weight as above GTR then it works "best", meaning around 207hp and it's there. I.e. Sports exhaust and ecu upgrade.

Ok, but in that scenario we were talking about on throttle conditions. Why would the rear wheel be leaving the ground in that situation?

If we were talking about off throttle/braking conditions, where the rear end is lifting up that's understandable.

Yrs, High resist and minimal bump on road is enough to put wheel on airborne, spring resist too less and wheel compresses under arches, but have no ability to come quick enough back to ground.
Edit: skidding= wheel jumps off ground, spins and hits ground, spins again there jumping off from ground, high resist on extension and it drops rear weight on above already compressed rear spring, no room to compress more, jumping again, landing again jumping again..

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Ah, I didn't mean trial and error as stabbing in the dark. More like you just don't know whether increasing values cause over/understeer in a particular car, unless you try it out first. Compared to something obvious like, say, spring rate where it's clear cut that lower front = less understeer, higher rear = more oversteer. With dampers it can go both ways depending on the weight distribution.

I just tested both the NSX and GT-R R35. Picked Suzuka East and Tsukuba (because they're both short, and has wide variety of corners - Tsukuba for sustained cornering, Suzuka for direction changes). I only tested extension because compression is obvious. Kept all other variables the same, except the one I'm testing. Low = 1, high = 10.

NSX
Front: low extension = oversteer, high extension = understeer
Rear: low extension = oversteer, high extension = understeer

GT-R
Front: low extension = oversteer, high extension = understeer
Rear: low extension = understeer, high extension = oversteer

Based on those results, my thinking of smaller numbers = less resistance = weight transferred quicker to the other end is correct. The differentiating factor between the 2 cars is the weight distribution. Shift too much weight to the already heavy end --> you overload and slide that end.

Does this seem right to you?



I think I'm gonna do just that This whole thing is just for me to try and figure out if there are any hard and fast rules to damper tuning. Seems like there isn't, so I'll just have to do it the long winded way if I ever want to tune cars on my own.

Good thing GT doesn't have damper fast/slow settings as well That will drive me even crazier

I think we are getting somewhere

NSX
Front: low extension = oversteer, high extension = understeer - this is similar to what I found on RWD/FR cars, sometimes it can be slight in effect, sometimes easily felt and higher extension can cause sudden breakaway on high speed corner ( when ARB and rear damper needs work )

Rear: low extension = oversteer, high extension = understeer - this is actually opposite of what I usually found on RWD cars, the low rear extension on the NSX was meant to keep the rear docile under braking, and decent rotation on throttle/turning. Try rear extension at 10 on Tsukuba last corner while the rest is the same.


GT-R
Front: low extension = oversteer, high extension = understeer - Partially true, in some situation, the front low extension can make it easier to turn in, but when the front torque is activated, high extension could help maintaining front traction, by sending the weight slower to the rear. Low extension can make GTR easier to send weight to the rear, more risk for wheelspin on low speed exit. Apricot Hill Reverse last few corners are great to test this. I tend to use high front extension on FF cars as well as I usually have FF cars with realistic weight distribution ( more than 60% ), matched with spring rate - help reduces wheelspin on low speed exit/more effective LSD.

Rear: low extension = understeer, high extension = oversteer -This is similar to RWD FR cars, as R35 GTR mostly in RWD mode when there's no traction loss/wheelspin, low extension = more docile, high extension = wilder under braking and low speed exit.

Did you do these test only changing the front or rear extension ( not both of them ) ? So F Ext 1, R Ext 10, then F Ext 10, R Ext 1, then both ext 10 and 1 ? Could you also be more elaborate on which condition the oversteer/understeer occur, braking, or on throttle/turning ?

With damper tuning, I treated FF and AWD cars in similar fashion, while MR/FR/RR cars tend to have similar damper behavior.

The oversteer/understeer is not a good description for handling behavior as they both occur when limit is reached or over it that always can happen on any damper setup. I prefer different terms like docile, wild, slower/faster rate of rotation, etc

 

[LeGeNd-1]

To prove my Hz speak, I transferred this setup to Stratos, and find it pretty good to drive:
Comfort soft as on tune above:
135/135
2.06/4.53 (direct copy was 1.909/4.194, lowest on Stratos front was 2.06, so transferred same ratio from that 2.06 to rear)
4/5
3/3
3/2
0.8/1.2
0.06/0.18
And rear LSD 14/36/30

Car is 110% better than many "good tuner" Stratos tune there.
Car is good on any power upgrades, but keeping same power/weight as above GTR then it works "best", meaning around 207hp and it's there. I.e. Sports exhaust and ecu upgrade.

Ok, I'm getting confused again now. How can a GT-R tune be transferred to a Stratos and be good to drive? They are both wildly different cars (4WD vs MR, heavy vs light, front heavy vs rear heavy). If this is because of the suspension Hz (whatever it is) you're talking about, then how do we know the suspension Hz value for each car?

I think we are getting somewhere

NSX
Front: low extension = oversteer, high extension = understeer - this is similar to what I found on RWD/FR cars, sometimes it can be slight in effect, sometimes easily felt and higher extension can cause sudden breakaway on high speed corner ( when ARB and rear damper needs work )

Rear: low extension = oversteer, high extension = understeer - this is actually opposite of what I usually found on RWD cars, the low rear extension on the NSX was meant to keep the rear docile under braking, and decent rotation on throttle/turning. Try rear extension at 10 on Tsukuba last corner while the rest is the same.


GT-R
Front: low extension = oversteer, high extension = understeer - Partially true, in some situation, the front low extension can make it easier to turn in, but when the front torque is activated, high extension could help maintaining front traction, by sending the weight slower to the rear. Low extension can make GTR easier to send weight to the rear, more risk for wheelspin on low speed exit. Apricot Hill Reverse last few corners are great to test this. I tend to use high front extension on FF cars as well as I usually have FF cars with realistic weight distribution ( more than 60% ), matched with spring rate - help reduces wheelspin on low speed exit/more effective LSD.

Rear: low extension = understeer, high extension = oversteer -This is similar to RWD FR cars, as R35 GTR mostly in RWD mode when there's no traction loss/wheelspin, low extension = more docile, high extension = wilder under braking and low speed exit.

Did you do these test only changing the front or rear extension ( not both of them ) ? So F Ext 1, R Ext 10, then F Ext 10, R Ext 1, then both ext 10 and 1 ? Could you also be more elaborate on which condition the oversteer/understeer occur, braking, or on throttle/turning ?

With damper tuning, I treated FF and AWD cars in similar fashion, while MR/FR/RR cars tend to have similar damper behavior.

The oversteer/understeer is not a good description for handling behavior as they both occur when limit is reached or over it that always can happen on any damper setup. I prefer different terms like docile, wild, slower/faster rate of rotation, etc

Yes I tested just by changing one variable at a time. High means 10, low means 1. I kept all 3 other damper settings the same as in your replica tune. Drove 1 lap each at Tsukuba and Suzuka.

My description is just the overall feel of what I get. Mostly oversteer means the nose pulls in easier when you lift throttle and/or you can hold your line better on exit even when full throttle. Understeer means opposite - car just feels it doesn't want to turn.

As I had a lot of variables to test, I didn't take the time to fully analyse every behaviour, but they are what I felt and I'm pretty confident I'm right. Weird that we get differing results on some of them. I drive with all aids off (include ABS), Logitech G25, FFB strength 8, FFB sensitivity 1, controller sensitivity 0. Maybe it's just our different driving styles? *shrugs*

In any case, I think I have a good handle on damper settings now. Fine tuning is still beyond me (I'll leave that to you lol), but I should be able to get some rough adjustments going for a start 👍

 

[OdeFinn]

Ok, I'm getting confused again now. How can a GT-R tune be transferred to a Stratos and be good to drive? They are both wildly different cars (4WD vs MR, heavy vs light, front heavy vs rear heavy). If this is because of the suspension Hz (whatever it is) you're talking about, then how do we know the suspension Hz value for each car

Let's bypass Hz, let's speak it as spring load.
Front of GTR weights 1540*0.56=862.4kg one spring carries half of that 431.2kg, so 4kg/mm spring handles this, 4/431.2=0.009276437848 is ratio of needed spring stiffness per kilogram of per front spring. Stratos front is 980*0.42/2=205.8kg, then using ratio counted above to get same tension per car weight kilogram on front springs, 205.8*0.009276437848=1.90909090909118 =~1.91kg/mm spring.
Then same to rear and as mentioned above had to count ratio between front and rear on Stratos and use that ratio from 2.06 front spring.

Simple words= using same relative rate of spring tension on both cars.
And result is same base body movement order and rate of movements.

..Hz counting is way longer way and because of lack of information it had to count using approximations of suspension components weight, kinda accurate counting can be done, but not necessary, but worth of studying once, after that you understand how many times you should/could multiply spring rate above carry load.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

Let's bypass Hz, let's speak it as spring load.
Front of GTR weights 1540*0.56=862.4kg one spring carries half of that 431.2kg, so 4kg/mm spring handles this, 4/431.2=0.009276437848 is ratio of needed spring stiffness per kilogram of per front spring. Stratos front is 980*0.42/2=205.8kg, then using ratio counted above to get same tension per car weight kilogram on front springs, 205.8*0.009276437848=1.90909090909118 =~1.91kg/mm spring.
Then same to rear and as mentioned above had to count ratio between front and rear on Stratos and use that ratio from 2.06 front spring.

Simple words= using same relative rate of spring tension on both cars.
And result is same base body movement order and rate of movements.

..Hz counting is way longer way and because of lack of information it had to count using approximations of suspension components weight, kinda accurate counting can be done, but not necessary, but worth of studying once, after that you understand how many times you should/could multiply spring rate above carry load.

Ah, thanks! That makes sense now. So basically 0.009 is the magic ratio, so to speak, if you want all cars to handle like the GT-R above. If I want the car to handle like NSX, I just need to calculate the NSX ratio and apply it to the Stratos weight distribution.

I'm gonna experiment with a few other cars now

Does this method apply to real life too? Or is this just a simplification in GT?

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Ok, I'm getting confused again now. How can a GT-R tune be transferred to a Stratos and be good to drive? They are both wildly different cars (4WD vs MR, heavy vs light, front heavy vs rear heavy). If this is because of the suspension Hz (whatever it is) you're talking about, then how do we know the suspension Hz value for each car?



Yes I tested just by changing one variable at a time. High means 10, low means 1. I kept all 3 other damper settings the same as in your replica tune. Drove 1 lap each at Tsukuba and Suzuka.

My description is just the overall feel of what I get. Mostly oversteer means the nose pulls in easier when you lift throttle and/or you can hold your line better on exit even when full throttle. Understeer means opposite - car just feels it doesn't want to turn.

As I had a lot of variables to test, I didn't take the time to fully analyse every behaviour, but they are what I felt and I'm pretty confident I'm right. Weird that we get differing results on some of them. I drive with all aids off (include ABS), Logitech G25, FFB strength 8, FFB sensitivity 1, controller sensitivity 0. Maybe it's just our different driving styles? *shrugs*

In any case, I think I have a good handle on damper settings now. Fine tuning is still beyond me (I'll leave that to you lol), but I should be able to get some rough adjustments going for a start 👍

Maybe it's just our driving style and difference in controller input, I'm using old 10 years old DS2 stick with USB adapter, also no aids ( ABS 0 ).

Damper tuning has a process, I think I wrote a lengthy post about this several pages back, it's a tuning flow that I learned from real life practices :

That's a good time, as long as you survive

I have been asked by @Pete05 about damper tuning, I wrote this damper tuning steps that I have been using ( adapting from real life experience )


Here is how I used real life experience in damper tuning :

Make sure the spring rate is settled ( no more change ), then set all damper to full soft ( all 1 in GT6 ). Now fine tune the ARB, go full soft 1/1 and see how the car balance at tracks like Tsukuba or Apricot Hill. Play around with ARB, add more front or more rear, see how it affect the balance, then go full hard 7/7. Notice how you can feel the car has lot less roll and felt stiffer when turning. Adjust the ARB according to your preference or target goal ( more/less rotation, stiff or soft/low response )

Now, when you have ARB dialed in ( no more changes ) you can start damper tuning. In GT6 damper values are hidden in specDB, damper are 4 ways in GT6, each car has unique damper value preset/range. So damper at 1 for Supra will be different to Integra ( damper rates ) So 1 is softest possible and 10 hardest possible for a given car. Each click of damper in GT6 alter the value preset by 1 step.

Damper tuning is simple yet can be very complicated in the process.
First, start with compression at the front, while keeping all other damper at 1 ( full soft ) Raise it slowly until you find the car can brake without too much dive, turn in with minimal understeer. Too high front compression may cause understeer, so when you start feeling the front become heavy/less responsive to steering, dial back.

Next, the rear compression, similar to front, but it will give opposite effect, too high, and the car will oversteer / easier to lose traction. The best place to test is at SSR5 or Apricot Hill ( hairpin to the last chicane ) Go for low comp for more driver friendly rotation, soft/low will also more compliant on bumpy tracks. Some cars may need high comp, depending on the weight/distribution, damper preset value and tires used.

Now after you feel the compression for both axle are okay ( don't have to be perfect yet ), start with extension :

Front extension, raise it slowly, the higher you go, the less the car will rotate mid corner onwards, while giving more stability under heavy acceleration. You need to find balance, the front extension works together with rear compression under longitudinal acceleration. When you find the sweet spot, you can accelerate earlier out of corner without pushing too wide. Weight distribution and drivetrain ( MR,FR/AWD/FF ) have some effect on front extension effectiveness. Sometimes low front extension is more than enough, depending how high is your rear compression as well. There is a curve for front extension, too lower, the car may push on exit/sluggish, get it spot on, the car will rotate nicely without much drama, too high and it will start to push early on exit ( easily noticed on FF car )

Rear Extension, this is often the last to touch, when all other 3 dampers are finely tuned, you can feel how great the impact of altering rear extension. Rear extension works under braking/entry and as well on other situation ( rotation on entry and high speed cornering ) This can be felt easily simply by raising it to 5 or more, on FR, you will feel more eagerness to turn in, and more response on high speed cornering. Running low rear extension on FR car like Viper or Corvette will make it less responsive to steering, as well as more lazy on turn in. Too high rear extension may produce more oversteer on entry and other situation.

Now, this is for baseline damper, now you need to test it for more varied track condition, test it further at Tsukuba, Apricot Hill, Midfield, and SSR 5. Tsukuba is great for deep braking test, medium speed corner holding, low speed stability and quick direction change response ( dunlop entry )
Apricot Hill is good for high speed braking/cornering stability ( 1st turn, esses and long left curve ), low speed exit up hill ( hairpin exit ), high speed sharp curve ( the right curve after hairpin ), and high elevation change ( last chicane ) If you find the tires overloaded on the last chicane, you may need to raise the damper.
Midfield, similar to Apricot Hill, the 1t turn is great for braking while turning stability, the exit of 1st turn is good for stability under acceleration. The track is bumpy, so a good damper will absorb all the roughness of the road surface without making the car nervous/unpredictable. The hairpin to the last tunnel is a great place to test how the damper handle late braking, extreme outside load on the tire ( the right kink on entry ), rotation and rear damper handling the bumpy road on exit.
SSR5 is smooth track, so it's more focused on direction change, stable speed holding on curves, rotation on low speed entry.



Auto Union post has been updated with 3 replays for Bathurst, Midfield and Apricot Hill, all on CS tires and real torque specs.

Spring is the 1st step, yes, when I try to find a good spring combo, I usually put all ARB to 1 ( softest ), this will show the car natural roll under load. When I got a good spring rate according to my needs/goals/target balance, then I started with full stiff ARB on both axle, see how the car handle. This is where I will decide to go with how much ARB to use, depending on what needs to be taken care of on the car handling issue

The flow would be like this : Spring - ARB - Damper. Sometimes, I have to back to ARB again, if damper setup feels lacking or reached a turning point. you never know, a click down on ARB either front or rear can turn a problematic car at certain corners to be much better.

For ride height, I usually set them at equal value, not too low as well to avoid unwanted side effects of bottom out. Sometimes I put certain limitation when building a tune or replica, usually using toe values, camber, LSD and ride height ( like the ISF CCSR that I kept the ride height difference to maintain visual height of the real car ) This way, I can build car with aggressive rotation or not, simply by taking off these chains of limitation. When I want FF car with optimal rotation, sometimes I use these limitation using LSD with high initial, accel and brake, high toe in, and high camber I coaxed as much as possible rotation + stability from spring + ARB + Damper, then if I want more, I started to loosened up the limits from LSD, toe and camber. Sometimes I used ride height difference as well, but it can be hit and miss on certain cars.



Thanks, hope you like those 2 new car

Hope those 2 post gives more clear view of how I tune cars in GT6, you can read more on page 141 to 145 ( some discussion on LSD as well )

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...d-vettec6zr1-lister-f1gtrlark.294814/page-141

There's a few interesting cars that may interest you the last few pages, 458 Italia, 180SX, CTR2 and RGT ( which won Tune of the Week, I think one of the moderator picked it for Weekly Rewind ) For race cars : Lister Storm and McLaren F1 GTR on page 145.

 

[OdeFinn]

Ah, thanks! That makes sense now. So basically 0.009 is the magic ratio, so to speak, if you want all cars to handle like the GT-R above. If I want the car to handle like NSX, I just need to calculate the NSX ratio and apply it to the Stratos weight distribution.

I'm gonna experiment with a few other cars now

Does this method apply to real life too? Or is this just a simplification in GT?

That 0.009 is on front, you have to count rear too, there is different on rear.
Idea comes from real, and yes it works there too.
Before you start to think at everything can switched like that, remember to check wheelbase and track width of cars, they make own variation on weight transfer speed.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Mazda Roadster RS (NC) '07
400PP Version
Special Build 400PP Miata NC
Comfort Medium to Sports Hard​

​

CAR : Mazda Roadster RS (NC) '07
Tire : Comfort Medium to Sports Hard

Specs
Horsepower: 182 HP / 185 PS at 6900 RPM
Torque: 148.2 ft-lb at 5400 RPM
Power Limiter at : 98.5%
Weight: 1152 kg
Ballast : 52 kg
Ballast Position : 0
Weight Distribution : 52 / 48
Performance Points: 400


GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED )
Wheels : Standard Size Stock
Car Paint : Cyberia Blue


Tuning Parts Installed :
Sports Computer
Catalytic Converter Sports
Fully Customizable Suspension
Twin or Triple Plate Clutch Kit - OPTIONAL - Triple INSTALLED
Carbon Drive Shaft - OPTIONAL - INSTALLED



Suspension - MAZDA OEM Springs/Damper Adapted
Base Street/Track Soft Damper/Alignment
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 135 135
Spring Rate: 3.50 3.02
Dampers (Compression): 1 1
Dampers (Extension): 2 2
Anti-Roll Bars: 2 1
Camber Angle: 1.0 1.5
Toe Angle: -0.07 0.07



LSD - Mazda Super LSD ( TORSEN Conical LSD )-BASE 2:1 TBR with 49 Nm Initial Torque

Initial Torque : 15
Acceleration Sensitivity: 20
Braking Sensitivity: 15



Brake Balance:
5/7 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 3/5, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.


Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 5/7 brake balance as starting point.


Notes :


This is basic 400PP Miata NC build based on replica, adapting stock Mazda OEM springs, as GT6 can't get low enough, I used the ratio. Damper has been setup to be soft like the real car do, the front damper has been setup to give more safety close to the limit.

LSD and gear ratio are stock as they are well performing, while clutch and driveshaft are optional upgrades ( installed on my car ) to give slight edge competing in races.

The Miata can win on seasonal race at Midfield against 500PP cars on CS tire. The Miata tested at variety of tracks, Midfield, Apricot Hill Reverse, Motegi Road and Autumn Ring Mini. On CM tire at Autumn Ring Mini, it did 46s lap with ease.

For damper, you can fine tune the front and rear extension yourself, increase either end, and drive it at Autumn Ring Mini or your favorite track, make a note of the effect at either end. I suggest to increase front or rear to 10, try each and then increase both to 10. You should notice how max extension on either end affect the car balance under braking, on throttle turning and exit.

At Motegi, this damper works nicely :

Dampers (Compression): 1 1
Dampers (Extension): 3/4/5 2

Use front extension either 3 or 4 or 5, don't recommend more than 5. The effect can easily felt on 1st turn, the esses up hill and the tight right before the downhill run.

Experiment, and have fun, the base damper is balanced for a Miata on CM tire.

UPDATE July 2016 : Added LSD, the Mazda Miata NC uses Super LSD ( Torsen conical type with initial torque ), TBR 2:1 and 49 Nm initial torque. The Super LSD also used on Miata starting in 2003 replacing the old Torsen Type II, this Super LSD is still in use even on the new Miata ND

 

[ALB123]

It's so nice to see such activity in Ridox's Garage again!! If it weren't for Ridox and his replica mods, I would have quit GT6 sooner than I did, which means I probably would have never discovered Assetto Corsa. I think Ridox is the only tuner in Gran Turismo history who had a fan club created in his honor!

I'm a little late to the party, but I just read a ton of posts in this thread. Going back to where you guys were discussing Gran Turismo Sport, I think it's going to be an amazing driving experience compared to past GT games. Probably PC Sim level quality. Frankly, I have always thought GT6 was a very, very good driving experience when you had cars setup properly to work with their wonky physics. In most cases, stock setups on GT6 cars are just terrible. Probably the worst injustice they would do to cars in "stock form" is slapping tires that are ridiculously grippy for many cars. Dropping a stage or two in tires could usually fix a lot of problems right away.

Polyphony Digital has had some much time to work on the physics and tire model for GTS. The Playstation 4 provides them with so much processing power compared to the PS3. I'm sure they are taking advantage of that. I was so excited when I heard Assetto Corsa was going to the PS4. I was hoping that people would love AC and switch to AC for at least the majority of their driving/racing, if not exclusively! Sadly, I think Kunos shot themselves in the foot by pushing the release date back twice, now coming out 4 months later than it was supposed to. Plus, GTS is only 2.5 months of a wait at that point. There is no question that AC is going to lose some sales due to people who figure they might as well just wait for GTS.

Again, it is great to see you still plugging along with the tunes in GT6, Ridox. It's too bad that I can't try them for myself any longer as I pulled the SSD from my PS3 and the unit now sits in a closet collecting dust.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

Maybe it's just our driving style and difference in controller input, I'm using old 10 years old DS2 stick with USB adapter, also no aids ( ABS 0 ).

Wow, I would never expect you to be a controller user. Usually tunes made using a controller doesn't transfer well to a wheel, but your tunes all work perfect so I'm not complaining There's still a difference though. IIRC controller users tend to like oversteer more, and wheel users tend to like understeer, so that could explain why we get different feelings from messing around with dampers.

Damper tuning has a process, I think I wrote a lengthy post about this several pages back, it's a tuning flow that I learned from real life practices :

Hope those 2 post gives more clear view of how I tune cars in GT6, you can read more on page 141 to 145 ( some discussion on LSD as well )

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...d-vettec6zr1-lister-f1gtrlark.294814/page-141

There's a few interesting cars that may interest you the last few pages, 458 Italia, 180SX, CTR2 and RGT ( which won Tune of the Week, I think one of the moderator picked it for Weekly Rewind ) For race cars : Lister Storm and McLaren F1 GTR on page 145.

Yup, read all those. I think my final conclusion is dampers just work the same as springs:

Front low = oversteer, rear low = understeer
Front high = understeer, rear high = oversteer

Front compression & rear extension = works during corner entry
Front extension & rear compression = works during corner exit

Probably a bit simplified, but that's the general theme that I get from reading your posts. Now of course it needs to work with other aspects of tuning, and car's weight distribution, but for me simple is good enough lol

I'm gonna give your other cars a try for sure 👍

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Wow, I would never expect you to be a controller user. Usually tunes made using a controller doesn't transfer well to a wheel, but your tunes all work perfect so I'm not complaining There's still a difference though. IIRC controller users tend to like oversteer more, and wheel users tend to like understeer, so that could explain why we get different feelings from messing around with dampers.



Yup, read all those. I think my final conclusion is dampers just work the same as springs:

Front low = oversteer, rear low = understeer
Front high = understeer, rear high = oversteer

Front compression & rear extension = works during corner entry
Front extension & rear compression = works during corner exit

Probably a bit simplified, but that's the general theme that I get from reading your posts. Now of course it needs to work with other aspects of tuning, and car's weight distribution, but for me simple is good enough lol

I'm gonna give your other cars a try for sure 👍

Most testers when testing my tunes on FITT competition always struggles with understeer and harder to drive Most likely because ABS 1 is used

Damper is dynamic springs, so in essence they work together with springs, helping to control the rate of weight transfer as well as load control.
Always remember that damper behavior depends a lot on spring/ARB setup, damper is sort of final tweaks to the spring/ARB ( but still very influential )

I posted the Miata NC above, the car is very easy to drive even on CM, changing damper extension ( raising it ) on either end will give very clear effect, you can drive it at Autumn Ring Mini and Motegi Road, both tracks are great for Miata. I set 46s lap on CM at Autumn Ring Mini, you can use the ghost ( replay I uploaded ) to chase if you wish

I recently drove the GTR SpecV above as well, at Red Bull Ring, 1:43s on CS, similar to my F40 replica The Gallardo SL replica is still faster though, able to break 1:40s on CS tire.

It's so nice to see such activity in Ridox's Garage again!! If it weren't for Ridox and his replica mods, I would have quit GT6 sooner than I did, which means I probably would have never discovered Assetto Corsa. I think Ridox is the only tuner in Gran Turismo history who had a fan club created in his honor!

I'm a little late to the party, but I just read a ton of posts in this thread. Going back to where you guys were discussing Gran Turismo Sport, I think it's going to be an amazing driving experience compared to past GT games. Probably PC Sim level quality. Frankly, I have always thought GT6 was a very, very good driving experience when you had cars setup properly to work with their wonky physics. In most cases, stock setups on GT6 cars are just terrible. Probably the worst injustice they would do to cars in "stock form" is slapping tires that are ridiculously grippy for many cars. Dropping a stage or two in tires could usually fix a lot of problems right away.

Polyphony Digital has had some much time to work on the physics and tire model for GTS. The Playstation 4 provides them with so much processing power compared to the PS3. I'm sure they are taking advantage of that. I was so excited when I heard Assetto Corsa was going to the PS4. I was hoping that people would love AC and switch to AC for at least the majority of their driving/racing, if not exclusively! Sadly, I think Kunos shot themselves in the foot by pushing the release date back twice, now coming out 4 months later than it was supposed to. Plus, GTS is only 2.5 months of a wait at that point. There is no question that AC is going to lose some sales due to people who figure they might as well just wait for GTS.

Again, it is great to see you still plugging along with the tunes in GT6, Ridox. It's too bad that I can't try them for myself any longer as I pulled the SSD from my PS3 and the unit now sits in a closet collecting dust.

I'm grateful to everyone who have visited my garage, drive my creations and leaving feedback, they are all priceless to me Times will always bring changes, everything will come to pass eventually, you have moved on to AC, and GTS will soon arrive

I'll keep playing GT6 for a while as I can't buy PS4, not until next year, when that time arrives, I'll get Pcars, AC and GTS for sure.


In case anyone missed this, the R32 GTR with CM rear and CS front is one hell of a ride, really have to drive it to appreciate it :

Nissan E-BNR32 Skyline GTR VSpec II '94
Tsukuba Best Motoring Lap Record
Tuned to replicate R32 GTR Vspec II
Comfort Medium (R) / Soft (F) or Comfort Soft ( F & R )​

View attachment 349473
​

CAR : Nissan Skyline GTR Vspec II ( R32 ) '94
Tire : Comfort Medium ( Rear ) / Comfort Soft ( Front ) or Comfort Soft ( F/R )

Specs
Horsepower: 306 HP / 310 PS at 6800 RPM
Torque: 289.0 ft-lb at 4500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 1500 kg
Ballast : 195 kg
Ballast Position : -50
Weight Distribution : 59 / 41 - used real life 59.x / 40.x
Performance Points: 456


GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED )
Wheels : Standard Size Stock
Car Paint : Gun Gray Metallic


Tuning Parts Installed :
Adjustable LSD
Fully Customizable Suspension
Weight Reduction Stage 2

View attachment 349472​

Suspension - Nissan OEM Springs/Damper
Base Street/Track
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 135 135
Spring Rate: 3.83 4.31
Dampers (Compression): 4 3
Dampers (Extension): 7 9
Anti-Roll Bars: 2 3
Camber Angle: 0.9 1.1
Toe Angle: 0.06 0.13 - Optional front zero toe 0.00


Old Damper
Dampers (Compression): 3 4
Dampers (Extension): 8 8


Alternate Damper - Stable
Dampers (Compression): 3 2
Dampers (Extension): 8 5



USE STOCK LSD - BASE - Recommended OR
LSD NISSAN A-LSD Base 2 Way - OPTIONAL
Front
Initial Torque : 5
Acceleration Sensitivity: 5
Braking Sensitivity: 5

Rear
Initial Torque : 7 or 14
Acceleration Sensitivity: 36
Braking Sensitivity: 30


LSD NISSAN A-LSD Base 1.5 Way - OPTIONAL
Front
Initial Torque : 5
Acceleration Sensitivity: 5
Braking Sensitivity: 5

Rear
Initial Torque : 7 or 14
Acceleration Sensitivity: 36
Braking Sensitivity: 5

View attachment 349362​

Brake Balance:
5/4 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 3/2, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.


Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 5/4 brake balance as starting point.


Notes :


The BNR32 GTR VSpec II released in 1994 was the last changes made to the R32 GTR Skyline, made to commemorate the 4th consecutive Gr-A victories, the Vspec stands for Victory Spec. The previous Vspec ( version 1 ) was already an improvement to the original R32 GTR. A short summary of the changes :

V spec 1993.2.3
Sale at that time price: 5.26 million yen
Commemorating Gr-A 3 year successive victories, sale
* Total height +15 at 1,355mm
* Brembo Brake ( caliper and rotor )
Standard fitment of *BBS aluminum wheel
Tire size increase of *225/50-17 size
* Vehicle weight 1,500kg (increase of 20kg)

V spec II 1994.2.14
Sale at that time price: 5.29 million yen
Commemorating Gr-A 4 year successive victories, sale
Tire modification to larger width *245/45-17 size

Vspec II production number at 1,303 cars. The Vspec II has numerous mechanical changes compared to the stock R32. With 17in BBS wheels specially made for the car, wider 245 sticky tires, in addition to the 1st version of Vspec which include Brembo brakes, ATTESA-ETS PRO, Active LSD at the rear, lower suspension and stiffer damper tune. There has been reports of higher engine torque output.

The Vspec suspension spring rates of the real car 2.4kg/mm front and 2.7kg/mm rear. These values are too low in GT6, so I used the lowest at the front possible, and use the ratio to set the rear rate. The rate used are 3.83 / 4.31, with the damper tuned to provide fast response and good rotation on exit. The alternate damper is included with has softer rear damper to give different handling. Camber and toe also available in 2 set, one is the base and higher camber/toe is optional.

The car weight is 1500kg, with weight distribution using real life corner weights of Vspec II, at 59.4/40.6, this is the closest in GT6 can get with weight reduction stage 2 and 195kg ballast the front end. This should give the mild understeer traits of the real car and oversteer when pushed hard. Most R32 GTR has closer to 60/40 distribution, with R33 and R34 improving with less heavier front.

LSD is set in 2 way this time, with setup giving good amount of lock and low preload. An alternate LSD with 1.5 way arrangement also provided.

Tire base set is rear comfort medium and front comfort soft, while all around comfort soft is optional. I intentionally set the rear with comfort medium to give distinct handling characteristics of the real car, with oversteer tendency on the limit due to the different ATTESA-ETS PRO programming in the Vspec.

The R32 was mainly tested and tuned at Tsukuba and Apricot Hill. The real life record at Tsukuba was done in 1994, driven by Keiichi Tsuchiya, the R32 GTR Vspec II was capable of 1:06.77 lap time. The replica with High Camber suspension and 2 way LSD is capable of low 1:06s on CM/CS tire. While at Apricot Hill on Street Camber and 2 way LSD, CM/CS tire, 1:38s. Both replay has been included.


UPDATE : New Damper and stock LSD added as base, old damper still available as option.

 

[OdeFinn]

Wow, I would never expect you to be a controller user. Usually tunes made using a controller doesn't transfer well to a wheel, but your tunes all work perfect so I'm not complaining There's still a difference though. IIRC controller users tend to like oversteer more, and wheel users tend to like understeer, so that could explain why we get different feelings from messing around with dampers.



Yup, read all those. I think my final conclusion is dampers just work the same as springs:

Front low = oversteer, rear low = understeer
Front high = understeer, rear high = oversteer

Front compression & rear extension = works during corner entry
Front extension & rear compression = works during corner exit

Probably a bit simplified, but that's the general theme that I get from reading your posts. Now of course it needs to work with other aspects of tuning, and car's weight distribution, but for me simple is good enough lol

I'm gonna give your other cars a try for sure 👍

Yes bit simplified, can't just generalise alone.

More things along those,
Softer setting you use, slower are reactions, slow reaction on front starts understeer and after movement starts it easily goes over and starts oversteer, and if there is no stiffness on rear either then whole body follows that oversteer. But toe and camber values can guide mass movements to ground and reduce or increase those reactions.
So i.e. Really soft compression alone with stiff extension and ARB and springs can be precise to drive if all settings are supporting current overall configuration.

Front extension is imminent also on entry, when you start to steer in and extension is too stiff it will lift inner wheel and all mass sits on outer side front wheel and that may break traction due "overload", similar happens on rear extension during exit, it may "lift" inner wheel too much and reduce traction there and everything sitting on outer rear makes it vulnerable to traction loose, and if skidding occurs it might have problems to gain grip again due stiff extension and therefore it slides like on soap.

ARB is really meaningful on damper setup, high arb clues sides together and when overall suspension is stiff it may risk traction during sideways body movements.

What I'm trying to say is there is no direct way to say what causes over or understeer, all depends what overall setup is, but all reactions are following same guidelines as real-world physics are going.
So you can setup car with weird pair of springs and try to fix crazy movements with all other settings, or you use good balanced springs and you use other settings to clue car on road after springs are giving that main handling characteristics.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

KTM X-BOW Street 2012
with optional 500PP version

Tuned to replicate KTM X-BOW Street
Comfort Soft​

CAR : KTM X-BOW Street '12
Tire : Comfort Soft

Specs BASE
Horsepower: 236 HP / 240 PS at 5500 RPM
Torque : 228.7 ft-lb at 2000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 847 kg
Ballast : 57 kg
Ballast Position : 23
Weight Distribution : 38 / 62 as the real car spec.
Performance Points: 503


Specs 500PP - OPTIONAL
Horsepower: 232 HP / 235 PS at 5500 RPM
Torque : 228.7 ft-lb at 2000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 98.2%
Weight: 847 kg
Ballast : 57 kg
Ballast Position : 23
Weight Distribution : 38 / 62 as the real car spec.
Performance Points: 500

OPTIONAL
Ballast Position : 40
Weight Distribution : 37 / 63



GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED )
Aero Kits Type A ( OPTIONAL)
Wheels : Stock
Car Paint : White, Black Matte, Red Matte, or whatever color you like.


Tuning Parts Installed :
Fully Customizable Suspension
Fully Customizable Dog Clutch Transmission ( OPTIONAL for Correction )
Adjustable LSD
Racing Brakes Kit ( OPTONAL - INSTALLED )




Suspension - Custom Tuned Springs/Damper
Street Custom Alignment
Stable Damper
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 90 90
Spring Rate: 5.35 7.14
Dampers (Compression): 4 6 - OPTIONAL Front Compression 5 ( Stable )
Dampers (Extension): 3 5
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 3
Camber Angle: 1.2 1.2
Toe Angle: -0.08 0.08




STOCK GEARBOX OR
DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - OEM KTM X-Bow Audi 6 Speed With Correction on 5th an 6th Gear
Install all power parts if applicable
Set Default
Set Auto Max Speed at 300kmh / 180mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 3.357
2nd 2.087
3rd 1.469
4th 1.088
5th 0.856
6th 0.705
Set Final : 4.000



LSD - Mechanical LSD
Initial Torque : 18
Acceleration Sensitivity: 35
Braking Sensitivity: 15



AERO
FRONT/REAR = 200 / 300 ( FIXED )



Brake Balance:
3/3 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 2/2, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.

Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 3/4 brake balance as starting point.

Notes :

The KTM X-Bow is an old build replica, using data gathered from KTM documentations and test drives. Weight at 847kg, with 38/62 split, optional 63% rear weight has been added as some report it, but officially KTM stated static distribution as 38/62.

Suspension and LSD has been setup to support the rear heavy bias and aero downforce. Gear ratio stock is okay, but I provided OEM ratio using custom transmission as option, the 5th and 6th gear ratio has been corrected as effective ratio.

Racing brakes kit optional, but highly recommended for racing and TT, with normal brakes, brake balance 6/6 is recommended.

The KTM X-Bow street at 500PP which I included can gold the Tsukuba TT on CS tire, lapping in 1:00s range easily on 1st lap using custom ratio gearbox.

I also tested at various tracks, from Midfield, Apricot Hill/Reverse to Autumn Ring Mini. The X-Bow with OEM corrected ratio able to lap in 40s at Autumn Ring Mini, while with stock gearbox able to lap 1:20s at Midfield. Replay for both run have been included.

Enjoy the road formula car

UPDATE May 2017 : Added optional front damper compression at 5, offers a little bit more stability. Tested on Comfort Medium at Deep Forest, capable of 1:26s lap easily.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

In case anyone missed this, the R32 GTR with CM rear and CS front is one hell of a ride, really have to drive it to appreciate it :

While we're in these discussions, what's the rationale for using staggered tires for this GT-R? Is the real life car using lesser grip on the rear? Or is it just to achieve less understeer because the in-game car is inaccurate?

Yes bit simplified, can't just generalise alone.

More things along those,
Softer setting you use, slower are reactions, slow reaction on front starts understeer and after movement starts it easily goes over and starts oversteer, and if there is no stiffness on rear either then whole body follows that oversteer. But toe and camber values can guide mass movements to ground and reduce or increase those reactions.
So i.e. Really soft compression alone with stiff extension and ARB and springs can be precise to drive if all settings are supporting current overall configuration.

Front extension is imminent also on entry, when you start to steer in and extension is too stiff it will lift inner wheel and all mass sits on outer side front wheel and that may break traction due "overload", similar happens on rear extension during exit, it may "lift" inner wheel too much and reduce traction there and everything sitting on outer rear makes it vulnerable to traction loose, and if skidding occurs it might have problems to gain grip again due stiff extension and therefore it slides like on soap.

ARB is really meaningful on damper setup, high arb clues sides together and when overall suspension is stiff it may risk traction during sideways body movements.

What I'm trying to say is there is no direct way to say what causes over or understeer, all depends what overall setup is, but all reactions are following same guidelines as real-world physics are going.
So you can setup car with weird pair of springs and try to fix crazy movements with all other settings, or you use good balanced springs and you use other settings to clue car on road after springs are giving that main handling characteristics.

Ohhh, that makes sense now! I've never taken into account that inner wheel can lift on corner entry, and vice versa on corner exit. In those situations damper extension effects makes sense 👍

With your last sentence, I'm not sure having 2 wrongs make a right is the way to go I used to do this a lot when I didn't have a clue about tuning, but IMO the best way is to "work" with the car's weight distribution, set the springs correctly and use other tuning parameters to tweak the final balance to suit your style.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

While we're in these discussions, what's the rationale for using staggered tires for this GT-R? Is the real life car using lesser grip on the rear? Or is it just to achieve less understeer because the in-game car is inaccurate?



Ohhh, that makes sense now! I've never taken into account that inner wheel can lift on corner entry, and vice versa on corner exit. In those situations damper extension effects makes sense 👍

With your last sentence, I'm not sure having 2 wrongs make a right is the way to go I used to do this a lot when I didn't have a clue about tuning, but IMO the best way is to "work" with the car's weight distribution, set the springs correctly and use other tuning parameters to tweak the final balance to suit your style.

The CM/CS tire on R32 is to get closer behavior of ATTESA/ETS, CS/CS works fine, but is too tight on low speed situation, where it should be more RWD like, so rear CM installed to make it more eager to rotate. The R32 ATTESA in GT6 is not accurate in terms of how quick it react and how effective it sends torque to the front axle, it should be late in response, allowing low speed oversteer

Try both CS/CS and CM/CS and see the difference, I think you will like CM/CS more.

 

[Ridox2JZGTE]

Lamborghini Aventador LP 750-4 '16 Super Veloce Replica
Build based on LP700-4 '12 Car & Driver + Auto Motor Und Sport
MotorTrend 2012 Best Drivers Car Randy Pobst
Laguna Seca, Fuji Speedway and Nurburging GP/D Lap Record
Tuned to replicate Aventador LP750-4 SV 2016
Comfort Soft​

View attachment 323438​

CAR : Lamborghini Aventador LP 700-4 '11
Tire : Comfort Soft

Specs Car & Driver 2012 No Fuel
LP750-4 Super Veloce 2016 Version
Horsepower: 740 HP at 8700 RPM
Torque: 561.3 ft-lb at 5500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 97.3%
Weight: 1671 kg
Ballast : 96 kg
Ballast Position : 15
Weight Distribution : 42.5 / 57.5
Performance Points: 590

Specs Auto Motor Und Sport 2012 No Fuel
LP750-4 Super Veloce 2016 Version
Horsepower: 740 HP at 8700 RPM
Torque: 561.3 ft-lb at 5500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 97.3%
Weight: 1671 kg
Ballast : 96 kg
Ballast Position : 7
Weight Distribution : 42.9 / 57.1
Performance Points: 590

Specs MotorTrend 2012 Euro Spec 45/55 No Fuel based on Online Spec
LP750-4 Super Veloce 2016 Version
Horsepower: 740 HP at 8700 RPM
Torque: 561.3 ft-lb at 5500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 97.3%
Weight: 1682 kg
Ballast : 107 kg
Ballast Position : -14
Weight Distribution : 45 / 55 - close to 44/56 as shown at the MotorTrend site.
Performance Points: 589

Specs MotorTrend 2012 Euro Spec 42/58 No Fuel Based on Video
LP750-4 Super Veloce 2016 Version
Horsepower: 740 HP at 8700 RPM
Torque: 561.3 ft-lb at 5500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 97.3%
Weight: 1682 kg
Ballast : 107 kg
Ballast Position : 24
Weight Distribution : 42 / 58 - as shown on MotorTrend Video
Performance Points: 589

View attachment 323442​

GT AUTO
Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT installed in this build ) - there's no bad side effect of this, highly recommended.
Aero Kits Type A
Custom Rear Wing
Wing Mount Standard Type D
Wing Small Type H
Winglets Small Type J
Height : -6
Width : +4
Other : Part B
Wheels : Standard Size BBS RE-MG in Black or Oz Racing Italia 150 in Black
Car Paint : GT6 Polarized 044 or Super Red V ( Red SV ), African Violet, Sunrise Yellow ( Yellow SV ), Cyberia Blue or White or Grigio Estoque


Tuning Parts Installed :
Intake Tuning
Suspension Fully Customizable Kit
Adjustable LSD
Twin Plate Clutch Kit ( OPTIONAL - Lamborghini Official Spec - Dry Double Plate Clutch )
Full Customizable Dog Clutch Transmission
Torque Distributing Center Differential - OPTIONAL FOR DRIVE MODE.


Suspension OHLINS Push Rod Actuated Coil Springs + Damper ( STRADA/SPORT )
Base Ride Height for Track ( used on MotorTrend Lap )
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 104 104 ( Adjustable range 4.1"-5.7" = 104.1mm to 144.8mm )
Spring Rate: 8.04 11.09
Dampers (Compression): 7 5
Dampers (Extension): 6 3
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 3
Camber Angle: 0.8 1.3 ( Optional : 2.0 2.0 )
Toe Angle: 0.05 0.10 ( Optional : 0.00 0.00 )

View attachment 323440​

DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - ISR ( Independent Shifting Rod ) 7 Speed with 1.24 Transfer Gear Ratio
Corrected Final Drive Ratio

Install all power parts
Set Default
Use Default Final
Set Auto Max Speed at 380kmh /236mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 3.909
2nd 2.438
3rd 1.810
4th 1.458
5th 1.185
6th 0.967
7th 0.844
Set Final 3.559 - Corrected Final drive based on Car & Driver Test 2.87 Final + Transfer Gear Ratio


LSD 2 way rear ( low preload )
FRONT
Initial Torque : 5
Acceleration Sensitivity: 5
Braking Sensitivity: 5

REAR
Initial Torque : 17
Acceleration Sensitivity: 30
Braking Sensitivity: 30


LSD 2 way rear ( medium preload )
FRONT
Initial Torque : 5
Acceleration Sensitivity: 5
Braking Sensitivity: 5

REAR
Initial Torque : 22
Acceleration Sensitivity: 30
Braking Sensitivity: 30


AERO
Front : 50 ( fixed )
Rear : 120 ( Max )



LAMBORGHINI DRIVE MODE-OPTIONAL SUITE( STRADA/SPORT/CORSA )

Torque Distributing Center Differential + Damper + ESP using GT6 TC+ABS

STRADA :
Dampers (Compression): 7 5
Dampers (Extension): 6 3
Torque Split F/R : Stock or 20:80
OPTIONAL ESP : TC 8 / ABS 10

SPORT :
Dampers (Compression): 7 5
Dampers (Extension): 6 3
Torque Split F/R : 10:90
OPTIONAL ESP : TC 4 / ABS 6

CORSA :
Dampers (Compression): 7 5
Dampers (Extension): 5 5
Torque Split F/R : 40:60
OPTIONAL ESP : TC 3 / ABS 3

View attachment 323439​

Brake Balance:
5/7 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 3/5, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.


Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 5/7 brake balance as starting point.


Notes :

The Lamborghini Aventador LP700-4 replica is one of the harder to built, so many sources having different stats ( weight and distribution ). I had to make several version just to cover the differing test specification. Power uses stock no oil change at 690HP / 700PS and 509ft lb torque.

Lamborghini own claim at 1575kg, which never happen when the car is ready to roll.

MotorTrend alone has 2 different weight and distribution spec for the same car.
2012 Test MotorTrend :
Online Site : Weight 3817lb / 1732kg , distribution 45/55
Video Best Drivers Car 2012 : Weight 4109lb / 1864kg, distribution 42/58

Car & Driver 2012 Test : 4085lb / 1853kg tested weight and 42.5/57.5 distribution.

Auto Motor Und Sport & Sport Auto, Test + SuperTest stated 1792-1794kg full tank weight tested with 42.9/57.1 distribution ( 2012 )

Data taken from Sport Auto Test :

Test - Lamborghini Aventador LP700-4
Conditions at Hockenheimring (air/track): 4/4 Degrees Celsius
Weight (with full tank of fuel): 1792 kg
0-60 km/h: 1,7 s
0-100 km/h: 3,1 s
0-160 km/h: 6,0 s
0-200 km/h: 8,8 s
Flexibility (80-120 km/h) in 4th/5th/6th/7th gear: 2,7 s/3,6 s/5,0 s/6,2 s
18 m slalom: 70,0 km/h
Braking (100-0 km/h): 31,9 m (warm)
GPS-topspeed: 354 km/h (/8000 rpm in 7th gear)

Supertest - Lamborghini Aventador LP700-4

Conditions at Hockenheimring (air/track): 20/19 Degrees Celsius
Weight (with full tank of fuel): 1794 kg
0-60 km/h: 1,6 s
0-100 km/h: 3,0 s
0-160 km/h: 6,3 s
0-200 km/h: 9,5 s
Flexibility (80-120 km/h) in 4th/5th/6th/7th gear: 3,1 s/4,1 s/5,7 s/7,0 s
18 m slalom: 70,6 km/h
110 m ISO evasive test: 155 km/h
Braking (100-0 km/h): 32,4 m (warm)
Hockenheimring: 1.08,6 min
Nürburgring-Norschleife: 7.25,1 min
Dunlop wet handling track: 1.34,8 min


This means I have to calculate the fuel tank weight and built the replica with minimum fuel as the Aventador in GT6 could only have 1775kg at the heaviest. I used 1792-1794kg as a base and set the weight at 1721kg for both Car & Driver + Auto Motor Und Sport spec, while MotorTrend replica spec uses the site data at 1732kg for minimum fuel weight ( Euro Spec 2012 )

The MotorTrend Best Drivers Car Video, very likely uses US DOT spec car which has heavier weight than Euro Spec, as evidenced by Car & Driver test weight which weigh quite close to each other ( 1853kg C&D vs MotorTrend 1864kg ) GT6 adds 100 Liters of fuel when on track ( full tank ), while the real car IRL has 90 L fuel tank capacity. The replica weight will approximation based on all data available. The performance in acceleration ( time ) and 0-400m are accurate when tested on both 1721kg and 1732kg on Comfort Soft tires.

Weight distribution for Car & Driver spec 42.5/57.5, Auto Motor Und Sport spec 42.9/57.1, while the MotorTrend has 2 set of distribution, 45/55 ( close to 44/56 ) and 42/58. All of them has been tested with the optimized suspension setup capable to cope with distribution from 45/55 to 42/58.

Suspension of the real car uses state of the art push rod actuated coil spring over damper made by Ohlins, specifically designed and setup for the Aventador. After some research I found that due to the design of the push road, the spring rate can be as low as the previous generation Murcielago without sacrificing ride quality and performance. The Murcielago front spring rate has been used as a base with the rear spring rate selected with spring ratio optimized for the weight distribution. This leads to 450lb/in front and 621lb/in rear.
Damper, ARB and alignment has been set for predictable balance with mild understeer like the real tests review. Camber are 2.0 and zero toe all around for track ready driving.

Gearing is incorrect in GT6, mainly due to the wrong final drive value not accounting the transfer gear ratio. Based on Car & Driver specification data, the rear axle ratio / final is 2.87, with transfer gear ratio at 1.24:1. This means the effective final ratio is 3.559 The Lamborghini official site stated the car has dry double plate clutch ( I use stock clutch when testing ), the twin plate clutch has been listed as optional, as many publication state single plate clutch instead. The custom transmission in the GT6 already give improved shift time, so single plate stock clutch is more than enough. Speed vs RPM on each gear has been tested and accurate based on Car & Driver report. The acceleration time and 0-400m performance also accurately replicated with 0-60mph in 2.6s-3s flat and 10.6s average quarter mile ( Sport Auto ) Fastestlaps listed 10.2s quarter mile.

Car & Driver Test :
GEAR RATIO MPH PER 1000 RPM MAX SPEED IN GEAR (rpm)

1 ........ 3.91 ........5.8............49 mph (8500)
2 ........ 2.44 ........9.3............79 mph (8500)
3 ........ 1.81 .......12.5...........106 mph (8500)
4 ........ 1.46 .......15.6...........133 mph (8500)
5 ........ 1.19 .......19.1...........162 mph (8500)
6 ........ 0.97 .......23.5...........200 mph (8500)
7 ........ 0.84 .......26.9...........217 mph (8070)

The drivetrain uses AWD with front Haldex IV providing electronic controlled drive engagement. The front has no mechanical LSD equipped, instead it uses electronic based torque management ( eLSD controlled by ESP - most possibly brake based ) Due to this, I used stock torque split controller, and set the LSD to custom with front at close to open values and rear in 2 way with 2 choices of preload. On all the test lap, I used the 22 Initial Torque LSD set ( medium preload ), feel free to try the low preload at 17 for more looser handling.

Once the horses exit the ISR gearbox, they're sent to the road via a four-wheel drive system that's also received technical investment. The Murcielago, as well as the Gallardo, uses a viscous coupling central differential that doesn't have electronic control, relying on self-regulation. The Aventador was gifted with a Haldex IV electronically controlled coupling. The front wheels can receive between 0 and 60 percent of the engine's torque, depending on the driving conditions.

At the back, the power is channeled through a mechanical limited slip differential, while the ESP mimics the action of such a unit for the front wheels. A second mechanical LSD wouldn't have been a viable option due to the weight penalty brought by this.

To get accurate performance and handling to the real world, I tested and tuned at 3 different tracks, all of them have lap record by Aventador LP700-4. Fuji Speedway F at 1:52.55, Nurburgring GP/D at 1:38.80, and Laguna Seca ( MotorTrend Randy Pobst 2012 ) at 1:35.40

These lap times are replicated with comfort soft tires, the replica at Fuji can easily lap in 1:51s, Nurb GP/D at 1:38s and Laguna Seca at flat 1:35s. I have provided 4 replay files, 1 for each track and 1 drag replay to show how accurate the performance vs real life tests. All of them done with medium preload LSD set.

Fuji : Car & Driver spec 42.5 / 57.5 distribution 1721kg
Nurburgring GP/D : Car & Driver spec 42.5 / 57.5 distribution 1721kg
Laguna Seca : MotorTrend 42/58 distribution 1732kg
SSRX : Drag Test with Car & Driver Spec 42.5/ / 57.5 distribution 1721kg

Highly recommend to set the audio option camera set to exterior for best experience.



The video from Motor Trend Best Drivers 2012, driven by Pro Driver Randy Pobst :

View attachment 309351 ​

The LP750-4 SV replica build is based on LP700-4 replica previously released, the quoted post above are the replica notes for the LP700-4 of which this replica is based upon, please read the notes above for better explanation on the various aspect of the car. This replica has only some minor changes, mainly on slight power and weight change and different camber/toe alignment ( used on the Murcielago LP670-4 SV )

The LP 750-4 SV in real life has 750CV or 740HP @8400 RPM, same torque number and RPM. Weight has been reduced slightly by 50kg.

To get the specs, I used oil change and intake tuning to maintain rev limit at 8500 RPM as in the real car. The downside is the torque rise higher than real life car, but it will have to make do. For weight, I simply used the LP700-4 replica weight specs and reduce them by 50kg, ballast position has been corrected to reflect the distribution. Lamborghini official specs states 43/57 distribution, similar to Car & Driver + Auto Motor Und Sport weight specs.

For appearance, I used whatever GT6 have to get as close as possible to the real car exterior. The rear wing width has been set to same width as the real SV, height also the same. The door mirror has been chosen in black, similar to the real car. 2 wheel set has been provided to suit your taste, while the paint color are free, but I included the colors that are closest to the media release SV ( red and yellow )

I tested the car at Tsukuba and Midfield. At Tsukuba on CS tire, MotorTrend spec ( 1682kg, 42/58 ) is easily lap in 1:00.2xx, close to 1 minute flat . At Midfield, on same spec, CS tire, able to lap in 1:16s with room to improve. Close to 1 second quicker than Murcielago LP670-4 SV replica.

The replay at Midfield has been provided for viewing.

For more predictable handling the Auto Motor Und Sport and MotorTrend 45/55 specs are easier to drive, and the medium preload LSD also helped to stabilize the car. The added torque at over 561 lb ft increases the tendency to spin the rear wheels on CS tire. You may need to reduce throttle at some stage of cornering, where LP700-4 could do flat out.

UPDATE June 2016 :

Added Lamborghini Drive Mode Suite, STRADA, SPORT, CORSA, complete with optional ESP mode simulated using GT6 Traction Control/TC and ABS. Torque Distributing Center Differential added to provide custom torque split, STRADA can use stock or 20 front/80 rear, SPORT is 10 front/90 rear and CORSA 40 front/60 rear. The real car HALDEX IV can provide up to 60% front torque, while under normal condition has 80% rear torque. CORSA specific damper has been added as well to provide better handling balance with 40/60 torque split.

With STRADA, the stock torque center diff drives very similar to custom 20/80, except for the dynamic nature of stock center diff. The TC and ABS are highly recommended if wanted more authentic performance with ESP enabled ( always enabled by default in real car ), though in GT6, both are still crude in operation, but have to make do with what's available.

I tested the SPORT and CORSA mode at Apricot Hill Reverse, with SPORT, the car lapped in 1:30.6s while on CORSA, 1:30.022 ( CORSA damper ), the setup used is 1682kg / 42:58 distribution ( MotorTrend ), Medium Preload LSD, CS tire and no ESP ( no TC and ABS ). Replay for both has been included.

View attachment 323441​

Lamborghini Aventador SV replica has been updated, added Lamborghini Drove Mode Suite, complete with torque split/Haldex IV system + damper + ESP mode using GT6 aids. Please read the added update notes.