Slash's 1979 Ford - IT LIVES!

[Slash]

So today I continued some sanding and priming/painting parts of the frame. Once I was done with that, I kind of cheaply dabbed up a exhaust hanger out of some aluminum diamond plate I had and an old hanger that was busted, and then put the exhaust turn downs on. I did not clamp them because once the engine is in I will have to slide them around for proper length as I will need to trim the ends so the turn downs do not touch the brake hose for the back. I also hooked up a braided hose I had laying around to the vent on the diff since it did not have a hose and I removed the hard steel line that went from the roll over vent valve on the tank to the front of the truck for the charcoal canister...emissions stuff that has not been on this truck in who knows how long.

This isnt my best work but with space condiments and no lift it was the best I could do with what I had to work with. I also checked and it looks like I should have no issues with tires rubbing the inside of the bed.

Just little things here and there right now.

 

[Slash]

Today I fixed a ground wire for my MSd ignition system and extended the ground wire for the blower motor so it no longer bolts into the dead center of the firewall. I also spent 3+ hours cleaning nuts and bolts up on a bench grinder. Thinking about trying my hand at DIY zinc plating.

 

[Slash]

Spent the evening and early night today cleaning and painting and reconditioning some hardware. First thing I did was clean up my vacuum tree for the intake, then sprayed it with some aluminum enamel. I think did the same same with the spacers for my alternator and power steering pump and did those in flat black but I think I am going to redo them in aluminum as well or maybe have them chromed. I cleaned my water neck, cleaned the pipe threads and resealed the plugs, then ground the mating surface since it was severely pitted and smoothed it with a file.

The next step was painting the new water pump. Since it was bare cast iron, its first exposure to moisture would have rusted it instantly. The aluminum enamel should not allow that to happen, plus it will look blingy on the front of a blue engine block. My new fuel line showed up today so I assembled that. You might be wondering why, since I already have the fuel line....well a few days ago I did a think and purchased a brand new carburetor. Quick Fuel 750 with mechanical secondaries and electric choke, powder coated black and has anodized red metering blocks and base plate. Basically, it's a fancy Holley carburetor.

The most tedious project of the day was removal of the brake booster. I got it apart and cleaned the mounting brackets and painted them, and all the nuts and bolts immediately got subjected to the bench grinder. They cleaned up nice. Because of my old master cylinder leaking about a good half a quart of nasty old brake fluid poured out of this booster...it still works and eventually I will replace it. I spent a good chunk of time cleaning it since it had a lot of Ziebart on it, and then painted it and the master cylinder with the aluminum enamel. I was tired of the abre cast iron on the master rusting, the clear coat I applied after installing 2 years ago held up pretty well I must say and saved a lot of it. I may go back to black, but I must say the silver stands out a LOT against the black and I kind of like it.

 

[Slash]

So I haven't updated this in a bit, so here's a decent size update. I have been BUSY! Haha. Warning, this is going to be pretty picture heavy as there is a LOT to see, we are in an exciting time. Suspense is killing me.

So first things first. I ordered a Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap intake, and called Price Motorsports in Indiana to have them CNC machine intake adapters to bridge the gap between the cylinder heads and the intake, since the intake is designed for a 351 Cleveland engine the block deck height of the Modified engine is 1" taller, so there is a gap that needs bridging and they are making that for me specific to me intake and cylinder heads I am using. I ordered a Quick Fuel Brawler 750 carburetor and snagged a throttle return spring setup off a 4160 Holley I had floating around in the garage. My friend donated a 2" open spacer for the carburetor which I probably won't use and will downsize to a 1" 4 hole. I also got the rest of the fuel system plumbed off the carburetor, and setup a vacuum gauge. You can see the progress there in the pictures below. Because I couldn't resist, I bought a use MSD distributor I got burned on (more on that later) and set everything up on the kitchen table...boy she's gonna look good under the hood.

So back to the distributor, I bought it used expecting it needing a cap and rotor. No big deal there, and it was advertised as locked out. Well come to find out they didn't do it properly with a bushing kit from MSD, but they welded the pivot plates together. I can use it, but I will need a starter timing retard system, or I have to buy another distributor. Bummer.

Next, I ordered my 8 quart Kevko oil pan which was hand fabricated to fit my truck (we will see...), and my pistons I ordered in the beginning of June finally showed up! I dropped them off to the machine shop. Engine assembly started this week.

While I was at the machine shop I took a look at more of the speed parts I ordered. Boy, those cylinder heads are a total work of art. They are a pure combination of factory Ford 2V and 4V cylinder heads, so I get the grunt of torque in low RPMs but then pulls like a freight train all the way through the top end. Also, my steel roller rockers arrived. I went with steel because they are stronger and will take more abuse than the aluminum ones, and actually are lighter than the aluminum ones since the aluminum actually required more material to be strong making them heavier than the steel variants. Figure that one out! I also sold parts of the valve train from my parts engine and the old replacement cam/lifter kit for a cool $425. That's going towards my torque converter which will be ordered soon. Also pictured are me Cometic MLS head gaskets, the new 284HR camshaft and a few other goodies. Not everything is pictured but needless to say this is going to be one STOUT engine.

Also, one little thing I haven't mentioned much but now that the cat is out of the bag with my friends is turbski...The pistons are only hyperuetectics and its fairly high compression for boost, but it will safely handle 6-7psi. A small turbo on this thing will take a 500hp motor and do god knows what to it. So while that isn't coming for a long time, it is something I am looking into doing fairly seriously.

I threw a battery in it the other day also and checked all my electrical and thankfully everything is working as it should and I got no mice into anything. I still have a LOT to do on this truck but I'm basically at the point now where I need to wait for the engine to come home.

All I have to say is you know we are getting close when I brought home a couple gallons of antifreeze and new V-belts...

 

[Slash]

So the motor, less the intake/adapters/distributor is assembled. Not sure I like that black (told the machine shop to paint it blue and it ended up black), so I am going to paint the block blue and strip the pan so it's stainless again. But it's together....I am so excited. Cannot wait to hear it run.

 

[CyborgGT]

Having not yet owned a domestic car to modify (I've always loved Ford and have been wanting some sort of Mustang since I was little, I can't believe I haven't had one yet), I've always wondered about the heads. It seems like everyone who's after real power gets aftermarket heads rather than working with what came with the car. Are these modified stock heads that companies sell, or are they all-new castings that are just improved in areas like the ports?

Also, what's the compression ratio on your pistons? And expected power for this initial setup?

Also also, the fitment of the intake manifold given its "Air Gap" name is kinda funny.

Best of luck with that first start-up, I'm looking forward to the result!

 

[Slash]

Having not yet owned a domestic car to modify (I've always loved Ford and have been wanting some sort of Mustang since I was little, I can't believe I haven't had one yet), I've always wondered about the heads. It seems like everyone who's after real power gets aftermarket heads rather than working with what came with the car. Are these modified stock heads that companies sell, or are they all-new castings that are just improved in areas like the ports?

Also, what's the compression ratio on your pistons? And expected power for this initial setup?

Also also, the fitment of the intake manifold given its "Air Gap" name is kinda funny.

Best of luck with that first start-up, I'm looking forward to the result!

The factory heads on Fords are usually pretty awful at least on the exhaust side of things. These heads here are completely aftermarket and designed to improve the bad areas and strengthen the good which is why they make so much more power than factory heads. They are a completely new casting. These particular ones are ready to run assembled out of the box but you can order them with some cnc porting done. This engine makes about 9.7:1 compression which I intentionally left low for pump gas reasons. This engine will make roughly 500hp and 600-650tq, possibly more. With a bump in compression and a larger cam there is not reason this combination couldn't top 650hp NA.

The intake fitment is a funny story. This block started as a 351M/400 engine. Basically they are just a tall deck 351C. No one makes performance intakes for the taller deck height, so with the block deck height being 1" taller than the 351C, I had to have adapters made to bridge the gap between the manifold and the heads themselves. All I know is I am excited as heck!!

 

[Slash]

So here's where I am at.

My intake adapters finally showed up and the fit/finish was absolutely excellent. Shout out to Price Motorsports for an excellent quality product, you even impressed my machinist who has been doing this for the better part of 50 years. The fit of the intake adapters was so flush that you almost don't need intake gaskets. My new distributor also arrived after a delay in shipping and we got the correct cam gear for it. It fit perfect, no clearance issues anywhere. The factory water neck also cleared the adapters well. Otherwise, the engine is completely finished and ready for installation.

Next step was plumbing the transmission. Since I putting an external filter on it, I wanted it in a location easily accessible which is on the side of the frame. I realize this area is prone to flying debris from tires so I am going to be building a shield to put around it and maybe a line pressure gauge to monitor it. I plumbed it all with an array of AN adapter fittings and 6AN stainless hose. It looks pretty sharp, and better than what the pictures make it out to be. The tube adapter on the cooler is the wrong size so I just set it in there for mockup. When I mounted the filter I did not want to drill any holes in the frame, so I fabbed up a 4" x 1 3/4" spacer box, that adapted the flange of the housing to a pre-existing hole drilled in the frame from the factory. I think it turned out decent and gave me a little more clearance from the frame making for an easier filter change.

I did do a little sand blasting on some pulleys and bracketry yesterday, and I'm sandblasting the driveshaft. I bought a pair of Spicer U joints for it and got quoted $100 to have a shop balance it for me. I still have yet to get the torque converter ordered, but in due time.

 

[Slash]

I got the call from the machine shop today; the engine is done and ready to bring home. I would have put it together myself but for what he charged me to assemble it and stand by his work should it pop its top, I simply couldn't pass it up. So I purchased some Penn-grade oil for it (this is what Brad Penn racing oil has turned into). She should be coming home Friday or Saturday, then I can paint the block blue and strip the pan back to stainless steel and put my Kevko pan decal on it. I'm going to try and drop it on next week during the week sometime, then get the torque converter ordered and install the transmission after. Adapters to convert my lines out of the transmission to 6AN hose arrived, I threaded them in but didn't tighten them up yet.

I am going to install the water pump and distributor once she is home and sitting in the truck. It is going to be so nice seeing that fine piece of American machinery sitting under the hood.

Only a few more weeks and she by lord willing she will move under her own power again...

 

[Slash]

Well it's been a long time coming but we are finally starting to get somewhere. Big shout out to a couple of my good friends for giving me pairs of hands and their extensive knowledge from years of drag racing; they are a big reason why this can finally happen. I've met some awesome people the last few months and it's really great.

So first things first. I went and picked up a tailgate about 1.5 hours away for $70. Didn't need one, I have a few but I couldn't pass up a deal. The guy took it off the truck about 20 years or so ago and it'd been in storage. So I got her home, bought chrome for the handle, fixed the broken plastic clip for a rod and got some decals for the letters. It's even the same color I needed. It'll be great spare to have!

Next, I finally got the engine home. My lord, she is gorgeous. I repainted her to blue as I wanted and started mockup to check fitments. Everything checks out. Yesterday I finally went ahead and got her set in the truck.

Lets talk about clearances. First thing, and the biggest pain was oil pan fitment as expected. It actually fits super tight, but nothing a little work couldn't take care of. I had to notch a large section out of the passenger side perch. After that, it set right down into the notch in the crossmember of the truck. It does hit the reinforcement brace of the pan, and has a little pressure on it from tightening the motor mount to the perch, but does fit. The driver side has no clearance issues what so ever. I am going to email Kevko and tell them where the pan should be modified, that way they can sell them as direct fit for these trucks. I was the guinea pig for this, but otherwise I can say yes, this pan does fit the truck.

Valve covers seem to clear for now, the engine has to rock up when the transmission goes in. Right now they are tight; about 1/4" gap between the booster. That may not be there if it has to rock at all. The headers did fit and set the engine basically where it has to sit now I believe so we might actually get away with the tall covers and the booster. That was a big worry. I had a slightly different angle on the collector to the pipes in the truck because the exhaust ports of the cylinder heads are raised 3/4" over stock location, but once I tightened the collector bolts down the pipes moved themselves where they had to be.

Air cleaner will clear with a 14x4 without a 1" spacer or a spacer and a 14x3 cleaner...but it is super tight and the stud will have to be trimmed to fit under the hood. I wasn't expecting this but the Air Gap intake really raised the centerline up quite a bit.

I am looking into getting a Hellwig rear sway bar kit for this truck to aid in traction, so that should be coming soon. I also want to put some kind of cross brace under the core support to tether the frame together and build a drive shaft loop. The torque converter has been ordered; it is a custom furnace/hand brazed billet case 10" with all kinds of goodies. Anti-balooning plates, 3 bearings, 2700-3000 stall, billet hubs, and heat treated splines. It's a nice piece but super expensive; I paid $756 for it. Ouch. Gotta pay to play!

The driveshaft still needs to be blasted and rebalanced, and I got Spicer u joints for it finally, don't remember if I mentioned that or not. But I am glad she is finally starting to come together. It's so easy to get in over your head, but you have to take it one day at a time. This has been a fun project but she will always be just that, a project. The smile on my face when i tightened up that last motor mount was worth the money.

I've been following this bullnose build for a while. The power and setup is pretty similar to mine so I am hoping I will be able to do this!!!

 

[Slash]

So we've had some developments in the past couple weeks and as much as I'd like to say we made progress we kind of went backwards, and not really in a good way.

To start, I got my torque converter home from the trans shop. Super excited to finally have it! She was pretty expensive, but not as expensive as they can be. I paid $750 for it. As mentioned before, it has a billet case and all that good stuff inside. Here is where the first downer came. I loaded the truck up one afternoon and decided to bring it up to my work shop to start putting the trans in. We got the truck loaded up fine, and I loaded everything in the back seat of my car and followed my friend. I pulled into a gas station, my car door flew open and the brand new converter went rolling like a bowling ball across the parking lot. I was NOT happy. I shook it around and luckily there wasn't any real dings on it nor did I hear anything loose so I think it's fine. Might have dodged a bullet there, but there was more to come.

I got the truck in the shop and up in the air on a 2 post lift and started putting the trans in. Right away I started running into problems. I got most of the bolts seated and then next thing I know, BANG; snapped an ear right off the case. I picked up my tools and went home. I wanted to cry.

So I don't really know what happened yet. Me and a few people are thinking the drivers side dowl hung up in the bore, since every other bolt tightened up flush to the block we believe the converter was fully seated. I have seen this happen with an unseated converter, but withe ear snapping and spider cracks around the dowl in an unrelated area to the break I'm leaning towards a messed up dowl pin.

Unfortunately this being a C6 trans means that the whole thing needs to come apart. On the flip side, I was fortunate enough to have a spare trans laying around, so I brought it into work an gutted it entirely. Turns out the spare is from a 1972 Torino and actually had a better servo and apply lever inside than the one in the truck. How cool is that? I called my trans guy and he told me that we are going to throw the converter up on his balancer and make sure nothing is broken in it and we will swap guts over from one case to another and worry about money later. I can't ask for better help; a lot of the guys walking me through this have done this for 30+ years.

On the flip side of things I found a Bronco sway bar, but I don't think it will work with my traction bars. I believe I have an F250 one that will work, so that was a plus. I also painted the lip of my tail lights silver...I'm on the fence about it, but everyone I have asked say the lights look killer and look how the factory should have done it. Let me know your guys thoughts on this.

As far as the exhaust goes I plan on setting it up similarly to how I had it, just with new headers and stainless pipes.

I ended up loading her up and putting her away into storage for winter...so that's pretty much a wrap on things till next spring. I definitely wanted to hear it run, but its going to be a while now. I found a video of another guys Bull that I posted here before running...and that's how mine should run, and it made me even more mad because I want to drive it already!! Haha.

 

[Slash]

I've got a few people asking on other forums/pages lately really what I have done to this thing, and I don't think I have an actual parts/build list posted here thus far, so I'd figured I'd list something to date (11/25/20). If anyone has any questions or wants part numbers for some of the things listed for your own builds I can gladly provide them


Engine:

- 351M/400
- .040" over
- 410ci
- Line bored
- Decked .012", true 0 Deck
- Brass freeze plugs
- 3/8 tapped water return port
- TMeyer/Kieth Black "Track Boss" 13.3cc step dish hyperuetectic pistons
- Total Seal rings
- Block drilled for oiling
- Factory connecting rods balanced
- Balanced flexplate (Ford, 1976 year)
- 400 crankshaft balanced/polished in standard size
- Clevite P-Series MS-1432P main bearings
- Clevite MPE-1432P rod bearings
- Dura-bond F26 cam bearings
- ARP rod bolts
- ARP main studs
- ARP head studs
- Cometic C5871-40 MLS head gaskets, .040" compressed thickness
- 10:1 compression
- Comp Cams 32-431-8 "284HR" roller camshaft, 224/224 @ .050", .566/.566, 110
- Fel-Pro RM 813 rear main seal
- Fel-Pro 1811 oil pan gasket
- Kevko F606 front sump oil pan (3 trap doors, scaper and baffle)
- Kevko F606 deep pickup tube
- Comp Cam 1630-16 rocker arms 1.70 ratio
- Crane 52971 melonized cam gear
- Ford Performance M6500-R302 roller lifters
- Comp Cam 31-1000 spider tray/dog bone retro-fit roller lifter kit for Ford 302/351W
- MSD 85805 351W/Vic Jr. distributor, curved for all timing in by 2700 rpm
- Comp Cams 7782-16 8.950" pushrods
- CR81351
- Trick Flow 195cc "Power Port" cylinder heads, 72cc chamber, 1.55 valve springs
- Fel-Pro .060" intake gaskets
- Price Motorsports CNC milled intake manifold adapters
- Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake manifold
- Quick Fuel Brawler 750cfm 4 barrel carburetor, mechanical secondaries, electric choke
- Moroso 351C valve covers, NOS from mid 1980s
- ARP oil pump shaft
- Melling high volume oil pump
- Valve cover studs
- Comp Cams double roller timing chain
- CarQuest water pump
- TMeyer "Robertshaw 333" 180 degree thermostat
- Remflex header gaskets
- Hedman 89260 full length headers, 1 3/4" primary tubes, 3" collector
- Price Motorsports valley pan
- 1971 Ford 351C harmonic balancer
- Anchor engine mounts
- Carter standard replacement mechanical fuel pump, 25gph



Transmission:


- 1971 Ford C6 (PAJ) from full size Torino
- S code servo
- E code apply lever
- B&M stage 2 street/strip shift kit
- B&M deep sump pan kit
- Derale external filter system
- Motorcraft FL1A trans filter
- B&M super cooler
- Competition Transmission custom built billet aluminum 10" torque converter w/ anti-balloon plates
- 2700-3000 rpm stall





Rear Axle:


- Original Ford 9"
- 3.89 gears upgraded from 3.00
- Standard gray case
- Lakewood traction bars for trucks
- 325/50/15 Nitto NT555R drag radials



Eventually I would like to go with a nodular case and put a Detroit True-Trac in this rear end, in due time. The spare trans has an L code servo that I may swap over to my current trans. Also, everything is plumbed with 6 AN stainless braided hose or hardline. This list does not include everything else I have already done or plan to do in the future. The list is endless as I'm sure you guys know. I figured it would be fun to do up a 400 since no one really does performance M engines, everyone wants Windsors, 460s or FE's. I dare to be different. Someday I'll really see what we can squeak out of this old 400. Turbos or nitrous maybe? We will see some day. Here's an old picture from 2018 just for fun. Notice the bald rear tires

 

[Slash]

Well continuing to move forward with this build a lot of things are starting to take a slightly different direction; all for the good. This ones probably going to be a bit of a read, so hold on.

The truck is currently in storage and I still have not gotten it out yet this year which is ok, since I have been planning different things and slowly gathering parts. Obviously, the first order of business is finishing up the engine and rebuilding the transmission. But, right off the bat we have a new direction here as well. Yes, the core engine is in, and yes nothing is changing as far as that goes, just need to button a few things up here and there.

However, the first new development here is the addition of EFI. As much as I love carburetors and their simplicity, I can't shy away from these new EFI units. Having played with MSD Atomic and Fitech, the next logical step for me is to go Holley Sniper Stealth, capable of supporting 650 horsepower. Now this may not be enough however...we will get to that later. There's a few things that need to happen here to make this work. First, the brand new carburetor I bought needs to go...so, it's up for sale and if any of you guys want it I'd make you a killer deal. Second is the fuel system. I will no longer need the mechanical pump off the engine. Instead, I will be using a sending unit from a 1985 F150 with a fuel injected 5.0, since it fits perfectly. From there on said sending unit I will be installing an Aeromotive fuel pump to run 60 psi. This sending unit already has a return, so no drilling my brand new tank, and the OHM spec for resistance is correct for my truck so the factory fuel gauge will function properly. These EFI units bolt onto where my carburetor goes and retains all the correct linkages for my throttle and transmission.

Now why would I of all people be going to something so modern on an clearly '80s style build? Well, it's not necessarily for reliability believe it or not. The biggest 2 reasons are as follows:

- These EFI units support/control a few things I want to integrate, namely electronic fans and ignition timing control.

- Absolutely poor quality fuel available in New York.

These EFI units are far more compatible with ethanol than our old carburetors, and not that I want to run ethanol fuel in it, but good quality fuel is tough to find and I find I'll probably be mixing race fuel with it to bring the octane up to where the engine runs without detonating or dieseling when its shut off. I'm having a lot of trouble with a similarly built engine in my friends 78 and I feel this avoids a lot of it. Even advertised "ethanol free" fuel here has some in it after performing various fuel tests.

These EFI units are designed to look like an old double pumper carburetor anyway, so if anyone didn't know that they were looking at it'd be tough to tell.

Now why all these comments about EFI and poor fuel quality? This leads us into our next step, which I wish I would have considered earlier, but nows as good a time as ever right? TURBO!

Converting to blow through carburetion isn't tough, but the EFI is designed for boost out of the box. I'm very seriously considering an HX35 turbo for this thing, really sending the power to the moon. 700 enough?

The next step is the trans. I want to keep my C6, but I'm thinking a well built C4 might be the way to go. Fully rollerized, it only used 26hp instead of 88 to turn it, weights 75lbs less and is shorter, which means I can use my upgraded 6" diameter aluminum driveshaft sourced from a GMC work van, and upgrade to larger 1350 universal joints. Less power consumed, less weigh and bigger U-joints...what's not to love? I just need to have my torque converter redone...and the other reason for a C4 is that they make SFI approved parts for racing...they do not for a C6. So I would be limited in classes at the track because I wouldn't be able to pass tech.

Moving on, I want to upgrade the brakes. They work fine, but I'm having a hard time find remanufactured master cylinders that don't leak, and its annoying. Further more, my booster is massive and is very close to having clearance issues with my valve covers. Battleborn Brakes makes a Super Duty conversion kit that lets you turn your brakes from vacuum to hydroboost off the power steering pump using parts from a 99-04 Super Duty. This means less need for good vacuum and and more need for a bigger fat cam which means more power! I also want to do a rear disc brake conversion. All in all it'll be about $2k to get the brakes where I want them. The conversion on both ends means 45% more stopping power...as if needed...she locks them up on a dime already.

Other minor things are still things from before, rear sway bar ( did get that setup and painted), spring cups, new headers and stainless exhaust, matching front wheels, welding the bed so the tailgate shuts right, etc. One thing at a time I keep telling myself....so much money sitting here....building stuff isn't cheap!

 

[Slash]

Wow it has been a good while since I have updated this. I don't really have much time to do a full on post, but I can say that once again we have changed directions and I am at the point I just want to drive it. But, the good news is, we are in the home stretch! Almost $17k later....here's a quick run down.

The engine is in, and about ready to fire. Save for a few minor things, like trans plumbing and priming the oil system, its got oil in it! I also finally built a new transmission and stuck with the C6. After sourcing yet a third case, finding out that my second case was also cracked after an air pressure test, I was able to get the trans finished and installed. I am still doing a tubular crossmember for exhaust clearance and strength but for now I just tossed in the stock one to get the trans installed. I matched the apply lever for the band and servo, upgraded all the clutches, installed a larger drum with an extra second gear clutch, rollerized all the gear sets and put an extra wide band in it, along with upgrading the valve body with a new B&M kit.

I also upgraded the driveshaft. I was given an AAM Three Rivers shaft from a GM 2500 van. I had it shortened and balanced, upgraded to 5" diameter and a larger 1350 universal joint, and installed Spicer joints along with a new billet slip yoke from Speedway Motors.

The rear end is still a 3.89 regeared stock Ford 9" for now, but I have everything to rebuild it when I get it out moving. I sourced a refurbished 900 mile Detroit locker from Hendrik Motorsports and Earnhardt Jr's #88 car, and 3.89 gear set from Motive Gear. I also got a G Force slip yoke, a Daytona pinion support, a big bearing nodular H case third member with a Richmond rebuild kit and solid spacer. The case is drilled and tapped for an external pump. I also got Yukon 1541H 31 spline axle shafts for it.

I'm running into hood clearance issues so I'm working on a cowl hood with a spare hood I have, but I'll be changing the air filter to a smaller height and back to a blue color to match better.

So basically we are in the home stretch and in just a few more months we should have some videos. Here are a couple pics.

 

[Slash]

I forgot to post this....dyno day!!! Listen to my girl sing!!

 

[Darla Starch]

 

[Slash]

It's always a great feeling when parts show up!

 

[Slash]

It's alive!

Sorry for any language. This thing is an absolute animal. I still have some tuning to do but it's very close.

 

[Slash]

Nothing like spinning thru the gears!

 

[Djustice]

Gratulations on a sucsseful engine build! it sounds mean when you step on it. Those intake runners in the head sure looks big.
A lot of people are going to get a suprise at the ligths now