T-lcm accelerator sticking at 100%

[The_rymeister]

Hi all I’m new to sim racing and have recently purchased a thrustmaster t-gt 2 and t-lcm pedals on ps5, I updated all firmware etc and after 2 weeks I’m now getting the accelerator pedal sticking randomly at 100% on gt sport . The only remedy is to disconnect and reconnect pedals or connect laptop and reset calibration to factory , it all works again for a while then same issue, could be 10 mins or 2 hours . Sooo annoying. I have contacted thrustmaster with no reply. Any ideas ?? I see a lot of people talking about it but no fixes. Thanks in advance

 

[TeamCZRRacing]

Have you tried plugging your wheel into your PC and updating the firmware?

 

[The_rymeister]

Have you tried plugging your wheel into your PC and updating the firmware?

Yes checked it again last night, I have only had the wheel and pedals for 3 weeks brand new !

 

[TeamCZRRacing]

Yes checked it again last night, I have only had the wheel and pedals for 3 weeks brand new !

Tried running through the calibration wizard in Windows?

 

[The_rymeister]

Tried running through the calibration wizard in Windows?

Is that the thrustmaster calibration tool? If so when I connect to it and reset to factory settings the pedals work again, then play a few races and the accelerator sticks again, reconnect to calibration reset to factory settings all works again.

 

[WildRun]

It can be an Electrostatic discharge (ESD/EMI) issue with your cockpit rig: https://transforming-technologies.com/esd-problem-solving/
It can happen with all metal pedal sets (not only the T-LCM).
Grounding your cockpit can avoid this.

Remarks about ESD: Carpets, socks (instead of shoes), cockpits in wood material or cockpits on casters can get ESD worse. Also the temperature of the room or the garments worn can have some incidences.

 

[The_rymeister]

It can be an Electrostatic discharge (ESD/EMI) issue with your cockpit rig: https://transforming-technologies.com/esd-problem-solving/
It can happen with all metal pedal sets (not only the T-LCM).
Grounding your cockpit can avoid this.

Remarks about ESD: Carpets, socks (instead of shoes), cockpits in wood material or cockpits on casters can get ESD worse. Also the temperature of the room or the garments worn can have some incidences.

I have seen reports of this but how comes all has been fine for 3 weeks now it’s cutting out each night? I have a tower fan running in the room my rig is set up in which keeps it cool, it blows over the rear of the wheel base/pedals and cockpit. Which I have had running each time I’ve played since set up . The only other thing I’ve added is surround sound on to the rig would that cause any interference??

 

[Skinny McLean]

There's a grounding pin that's meant to touch the lower part of the pedal lever axis (as seen here) to keep the pedal from building up a static electric charge. If that isn't firmly in contact, that could lead to bad readings. I suggest you wait for Thrustmaster to get back to you (that might take a couple of days) before trying to fix it yourself (I can't remember if there are any warranty stickers on the base.)

 

[The_rymeister]

There's a grounding pin that's meant to touch the lower part of the pedal lever axis (as seen here) to keep the pedal from building up a static electric charge. If that isn't firmly in contact, that could lead to bad readings. I suggest you wait for Thrustmaster to get back to you (that might take a couple of days) before trying to fix it yourself (I can't remember if there are any warranty stickers on the base.)

Thanks for the info, thrustmaster have come back to me and said I need to ground the rig and pedals as it’s building up static . I have bought some wire and connectors and will try this out over the weekend . If it works I’ll make a post on it for members as I couldn’t really find much about it .

 

[grreso]

Thanks for the info, thrustmaster have come back to me and said I need to ground the rig and pedals as it’s building up static . I have bought some wire and connectors and will try this out over the weekend . If it works I’ll make a post on it for members as I couldn’t really find much about it .

Hi can I ask how it went what did you do exactly and is the problem resolved. I have the same problem.

 

[The_rymeister]

Hi can I ask how it went what did you do exactly and is the problem resolved. I have the same problem.

Hi yes I grounded my rig and have no issues at all since.
so I purchased a 6 terminal bus bar and an earthing plug from Amazon, (I’ll leave links at bottom of it allows me) then used 14/0.30mm strand wire (so not huge at all) and crimped ring terminals on the ends. Then I ran the lengths of wire from one of the fixing bolts on the wheel base, 2 wired from the pedal fixing bolts, I also rubbed of the paint of a small section of the aluminium rig and clamped one wire on there. Then run them all to the terminal bus bar. Then run a length of wire to the earth plug and plugged in wall. Hope this
helps.
I’ve had no issues whatsoever since and I’m running my rig in carpet which I’m told you cannot . Any questions drop me a message, happy to help 👍

ULTECHNOVO 6 Terminal Bus Bar 150A Bus Bar Block Cover Ground Distribution Terminal Block Heat Shrink Ring Terminals for Car Boat Marine Caravan RV (Assorted)
ELIMISTAT® Anti-Static ESD Grounding Plug UK - 1 x 10mm stud, 2 x M5 Post Connections

 

[grreso]

Hi yes I grounded my rig and have no issues at all since.
so I purchased a 6 terminal bus bar and an earthing plug from Amazon, (I’ll leave links at bottom of it allows me) then used 14/0.30mm strand wire (so not huge at all) and crimped ring terminals on the ends. Then I ran the lengths of wire from one of the fixing bolts on the wheel base, 2 wired from the pedal fixing bolts, I also rubbed of the paint of a small section of the aluminium rig and clamped one wire on there. Then run them all to the terminal bus bar. Then run a length of wire to the earth plug and plugged in wall. Hope this
helps.
I’ve had no issues whatsoever since and I’m running my rig in carpet which I’m told you cannot . Any questions drop me a message, happy to help 👍

Thank you for fast response and all the info. My problem is a bit different, bc my "rig" is made of wood, so I cannot ground it but I want to ask if you did something to the gas pedal, did you maybe ground the pedal itself or used the shielding stiff wires to do it? Do you think it is a good solution in my case?
I found a lot of light gray grease on the pedal just in the spot where the 2 stiff shielding wires were touching the pedal and cleaned it. Don't know if it fixed the problem yet - need to test more.

 

[The_rymeister]

Thank you for fast response and all the info. My problem is a bit different, bc my "rig" is made of wood, so I cannot ground it but I want to ask if you did something to the gas pedal, did you maybe ground the pedal itself or used the shielding stiff wires to do it? Do you think it is a good solution in my case?
I found a lot of light gray grease on the pedal just in the spot where the 2 stiff shielding wires were touching the pedal and cleaned it. Don't know if it fixed the problem yet - need to test more.

No probs, I have read that wood rigs cause a lot more static, but cannot confirm as not used a wooden rig, It would still be worth running the wiring to a bus bar and grounding with earth plug. Gotta be worth a try for a little cost 👍

 

[realist7]

Thank you for fast response and all the info. My problem is a bit different, bc my "rig" is made of wood, so I cannot ground it but I want to ask if you did something to the gas pedal, did you maybe ground the pedal itself or used the shielding stiff wires to do it? Do you think it is a good solution in my case?
I found a lot of light gray grease on the pedal just in the spot where the 2 stiff shielding wires were touching the pedal and cleaned it. Don't know if it fixed the problem yet - need to test more.

Hello mate did this solve your issue or did you find a fix for this issue.

Because I’m having an issue where the raw values of my throttle flicker around 0.6-0.7 by default even when I’m not pressing the pedal. The raw values are lower after the pedals haven’t been used for example so I think it is also a grounding issue.

When I opened my pedals I also noticed some grey grease on top of the grounding pins underneath the pedal which I think is the grease they use on the rod which keeps the pedal in place. I think it has not been applied cleanly and some has gone onto the top of the grounding pins on the circuit board which are supposed to make clean contact with the aluminium pedal. I wasn’t sure if this grease was meant to be there on the pins or not so I did not clean it off.

But now I’m thinking maybe this is causing the issue. Either the grease on the grounding shield pins or maybe that the pins Are not making solid contact with the pedal when it’s not pressed and need to be bent slightly to make better contact with the underside of the aluminium pedal.

Would be interesting to know how your testing went and if you manage to clean off that grease or figure out a solution.

Regards.

 

[grreso]

Grease was not a problem for me afterall but I removed it. Some friends of mine also cleaned it, I would say clean it. In my case the problem was my home electric wiring, that has no ground, so I had to ground my electrical outlet, no additional grounding of rig was needed even with my plywood rig and everything works without any hiccups since. Your symptoms are a bit different that what generally relates to ESD, I would say grease or simply TLCM electronic malfunction.

 

[realist7]

Grease was not a problem for me afterall but I removed it. Some friends of mine also cleaned it, I would say clean it. In my case the problem was my home electric wiring, that has no ground, so I had to ground my electrical outlet, no additional grounding of rig was needed even with my plywood rig and everything works without any hiccups since. Your symptoms are a bit different that what generally relates to ESD, I would say grease or simply TLCM electronic malfunction.

Hello mate thanks for your reply to be honest it’s not such a big deal because my dad is on for the gas is at 2.0 so if it flickers between 0.6 0.7 it doesn’t really affect the game really but I did notice the grease on the top of the grounding pins When I did open the pedal. other than this flickering issue with the throttle everything is working fine so I’m thinking not to bother opening the pedals again just to clean that grease from the pins if its not gonna make any difference because as you know it’s quite a flimsy wire and putting the pedal back on afterwards you need to be careful. If it was the grease then not sure why the readings are nearly 0.0 when it hasn’t been used the then go up by around 0.5 after its switched on.

Do you think the grease on the top of the grounding pins would cause symptoms such as these. Tbh I think the grease maybe is the issue because my clutch is peddle does not have this issue. What would you recommend. Are all of your pedals raw values 0.0 by default in the calibration tool and how did you clean the grease. What did you use to clean it. Would a normal tissue be sufficient. Etc. Any tips appreciated.

Also, my pedals are connected directly to the wheel base and not sure If there is a similar issue to yours because otherwise my clutch would also be flickering which it is not.

What would you recommend.

Regards.

 

[grreso]

I misunderstood, I thought 0.6-0.7 flickering while 1.0 is 100%. But below 1% actually I wouldn't bother to do anything really. Friend of mine with different pedals is running around 2% constantly without any issues. If it doesn't bother you then just leave it.

Regards

 

[realist7]

I misunderstood, I thought 0.6-0.7 flickering while 1.0 is 100%. But below 1% actually I wouldn't bother to do anything really. Friend of mine with different pedals is running around 2% constantly without any issues. If it doesn't bother you then just leave it.

Regards

That’s cool mate what I meant was that in the calibration tool the Throttle pedal raw value is flickering between 0.6–0.7 when it is not being used instead of at 0.0. However in the calibration tool I have set the throttle zone to 3.0 so in theory the throttle is not being activated until 3.0 so it is not having an effect in game.

What I did notice though is even with the pedals fully assembled if I put my foot down on the metal plate on the pedal base directly in front of the Throttle pedal and apply pressure the default raw value of the throttle goes down in the calibration app. When I take my foot off it goes back to 0.7 as default. So clearly something is not making contact properly and applying pressure on the area in front of the throttle pedal causing it to make proper contact.

However because the zone is at 3.0 it’s not affecting my acceleration on game and so I think for now I’m going to just leave it as it without reopening the pedals to try to fix.

If you would be able to suggest any way to resolve this without reopening the pedals I would be interested though.

Also, just out of interest, are the raw values for your/your friends pedals all static at 0.0 in the calibration app as default when not in use because I would like to guage if this is a common issue with these pedals.

Thanks and regards.

 

[realist7]

I misunderstood, I thought 0.6-0.7 flickering while 1.0 is 100%. But below 1% actually I wouldn't bother to do anything really. Friend of mine with different pedals is running around 2% constantly without any issues. If it doesn't bother you then just leave it.

Regards

Hello mate just open the pedals to clean the grease from the throttle pedal which I did however it made no change. I think it’s an issue with the magnet and it’s proximity from the whole centre on the circuit board.

In fact now the default raw value of the throttle is now 1.5 instead of 0.7 and the clutch has gone from 0.0 to 1.0 and I never even touched the clutch when I open the pedal set.

As soon as I unbolted the pedals from my wheel stand pro before even disassembling them, the default raw values of both the clutch and the throttle went up by around 1.0 each and after disassembling and reassembling the pedals and even attaching them back to the wheel stand pro the default values are still higher than before.

They jumped up before I even disassembled the pedals tbh and I didn’t even tuch the clutch pedal at all yet it went from 0.0-0.1 to 1.0.

Also I observe that both before I disassembled after I reassemble them after disassembly. When they are fully assembled, and I push down on the metal plate on the top of the base right in front of the throttle pedal the raw values go down the harder I push until they get to 0.0 but when I let go they default back to above 0.0. currently in the calibration app the throttle is at 1.5 and clutch is at 1.0 by default.

Also I observe that the raw values. Of both the clutch on the throttle are lower in the after periods of not using them.

Definitely looks like some emi issue or hall sensor/magnet issue if not a grounding issue.

Anyone has any ideas I would appreciate to know. As it stands the pedals are still usable however now I need to increase my ded zone for the throttle further to compensate for the increase in the default raw value from 0.7 to 1.5 to avoid it being engaged with my foot is lightly rested on it when going through corners etc.

Regards.