Tuning journal (14 cars)

Discussion in 'GT2 Settings & Tunings' started by sucahyo, Feb 28, 2006.

  1. sucahyo

    sucahyo

    Messages:
    2,171
    I use this place to write my progress when tuning a car. I choose car that mentioned as having problem. You can write your own experience when tuning your car too.

    car:
    Nismo GT-R LM (R33)
    Civic CRX Si '91
    Mitsubishi 3000GT LM '99
    Ford RS200 Rally Car
    Alfa Touring Car
    Jagular XKR
    Lancer evo V '98
    Skyline GT-R R34 V spec
    Corvette Stingray '82
    Shelby GT350 '66
    Ford Saleen Mustang
    Tuscan speed six
    BMW 328Ci
    RUF CTR Yellow Bird
    RUF CTR 2 Sport


    Test setting used on all car
    spring rate - 12/12
    ride height - max/max
    damper b - 10/10
    damper r - 10/10
    camber - 0/0
    toe - 0/0
    stabilizer - 1/1
    BBC - 24/24
    gear default
    LSD - 1/1/1
    supersoft tire.

    The track is deep forest or autumn ring.

    Nismo GT-R LM (R33) - "Heavy, sluggish to turn, and spins out every tiem you brake hard"
    • Using test setting the car feel slightly understeer, with some rear jiggling in deep forest.
    • Adjust rear damper (10/6 10/6).
    • The jiggle is reduced, and the car feel slightly oversteer now, it reach 1:10 in deep forest.
    • Next tuning should be the brake, but as I don't feel bothered by current brake I leave it as it is.

    Civic CRX Si '91 - "I mean, LOTS of understeer of all types"
    • Using test setting the car feel slightly oversteer, I don't think it need tuning, it is already agile and drivable. Don't know why they feel it understeer.

    Mitsubishi 3000GT LM '99 - "This car understeers everywhere"
    • Using test setting the car feel slightly understeer, with some side jiggling in deep forest. The acceleration is not smooth.
    • Adjust stabilizer (7/7) and using higher final drive (auto 21 at 5.500).
    • The acceleration is now smooth, but the side jiggling still exist, reverting stabilizer (1/1), adjust damper to lower value (6/6 6/6)
    • The side jiggling reduce a little, the car feel more understeer, adjust damper to lower value (2/2 2/2) and increase rear spring rate (12/14).
    • The side jiggling is reduced, but the car still bouncing, the handling become little oversteer, the next tuning goal should be reducing the bouncing which can be done by using lower ride height. At this stage the car reach 1:09 on deep forest.
    • It turn out that I can still improve this car handling, 1/1 1/1 damper, 2/1 stabilizer to reduce mid corner oversteer.

    Ford RS200 Rally Car - "but the body roll in this machine is impossible to fully remove. Lots of it"
    • Using test setting the car feel like using low spring rate, many body roll, the handling is understeer, the stock gear is weird, long at higher gear.
    • Adjust spring rate (20/20) and using FC gear (auto 14 at 2.5)
    • The acceleration become rough, the handling become oversteer with tendency to spin on each corner
    • Using lower rear spring rate (20/16) and changing final drive (auto 14 at 4.5)
    • The body roll mess the handling again
    • Reverting to stiff spring (20/20) and raising rear LSD (1/1/1 56/56/56)
    • The car is more drivable, still oversteer but not spin happy anymore, body roll still exist but not messing the driving.
    • Increasing front stabilizer to 2/1 reduce oversteer
    • Lower ride height will help reduce the annoying body roll more.
     
  2. sucahyo

    sucahyo

    Messages:
    2,171
    Alfa Touring Car - "but also because that car's understeer was driving me mad"
    • Using test setting the car feel little oversteer, I don't think it need more tuning, the car has plenty of grip but can be used to drift, it won't spin easily. 1:09 in autumn ring.

    Jagular XKR - "they are tail-happy, oversteering cars, and with stock or sports tires, they will plow (understeer) as well"
    • Using test setting the car feel rear heavy, tail slide when braking, but also heavy, make it understeer at some point, the acceleration is not smooth. Increasing front spring rate (16/12) and using larger final drive (auto 14 at 5.5).
    • Acceleration is ok, but the car still feel heavy. Increasing overall spring rate (20/16)
    • The car feel lighter, usign lower height will improve handling more.

    Lancer evo V '98 - "The big problem is understeer"
    • Using test setting the car feel have some body roll, which make it oversteer at low speed and understeer at high speed, stock gear is set to drop at the same rpm when shifting. Increasing overall spring rate (20/20).
    • The car feel oversteer. Increasing rear LSD (1/1/1 56/56/56)
    • The car still feel oversteer. Reducing rear spring rate (20/16)
    • Feel better, 1:14 in deep forest with no weight mods and stock gear, enough to beat the Mine Lancer Evo V :).
     
  3. sucahyo

    sucahyo

    Messages:
    2,171
    Skyline GT-R R34 V spec - "the understeer is terrible"
    • Using test setting the car feel heavy, it plows on high speed and also heavy rear, it oversteer when braking or slaloming, the acceleration is not smooth. Increasing overall spring rate and increase front spring rate (20/16), reverting flywheel and driveshaft to stock.
    • The rear is jiggling and still sliding when braking, acceleration is smoother. Lowering rear damper (10/6 10/6), increasing final drive (5.5), and lowering front BBC (1/24).
    • The acceleration is now smooth, the car still feel heavy but not sliding when braking anymore, the jiggling is reduced. Increasing rear stabilizer (1/7) and rear damper (10/2).
    • Feel better. reducing ride height (85/85).
    • Some controllable rear drifting. increasing rear LSD (56/56/56)
    • The car become more understeer. increasing rear spring rate (20/18)
      The car still feel heavy, but the handling on deep forest first corner is ok.
     
  4. sucahyo

    sucahyo

    Messages:
    2,171
    Corvette Stingray '82 - "they understeer like mad"
    • Using test setting the car feel understeer, the rear is jiggling, acceleration is not smooth. Reverting flywheel and driveshaft to stock, lowering rear damper (10/1 10/1).
    • The car still feel understeer, and some tourqe spinning exist. increasing rear spring (12/16) and increasing LSD (56/56/56).
    • Ok

    Shelby GT350 '66 - "they understeer like mad"
    • Using test setting the car feel understeer and has some tourqe steering. Increasing rear spring (12/16) and increasing LSD (56/56/56)
    • The rear is jiggling, lowering rear damper (10/1 10/1)
      car become oversteer at high speed, plows after braking. Reverse the damper (1/10 1/10), lowering front bbc (1/24).
    • The car become understeer. Change damper to 6/6 6/6
    • Ok, but the turning radius seem large.
     
  5. Stingray-Man

    Stingray-Man

    Messages:
    114
    I like this thread Sucahyo!:) :tup: It is very helpful to see your way of tuning and just to have an idea of how to tune the cars you are working on. I will post some of my problem cars:crazy: soon.

    1st Car to work on: Saleen Mustang.

    I tried to tune it for Trial Mountain in the GT Championship Series and had a terrible result. I spun out over and over and the car jumps and hops on turns and bumps.

    Ford Saleen Mustang

    • 1st I lowered auto tranny gear to 11
    • then I put LSD at 56/56/56
    • put ride hieght at MIN/MAX
    • put spring. rate to 14/20 - too jumpy and stiff on corners and bumps.
    • lowered spring rate to 12.5/ 16 - better, but still a little too jumpy and spins out too much
    • Put stablizers at 7/1 -too much understeer
    • put stablizer at 1/7 too much over steer
    • Put stab. at 7/6- a little too jerky and stiff and still spins- What should I do?:confused:
     
  6. sucahyo

    sucahyo

    Messages:
    2,171
    I think explaining how I come up with some setting is more helpfull than just posting car setting, so I create this thread :).
    Try using damper (1/10 1/10), lower the stabilizer (1/1), and reverse the spring rate (16/12), this works for me. And isn't auto 11 top speed is to low for trial mountain? I hit rev limiter on straight.
     
  7. sucahyo

    sucahyo

    Messages:
    2,171
    Tuscan speed six
    • Using test setting the car feel oversteer, spin on braking, the gear too long. Increasing LSD (56/56/56), lowering front BBC (1/24), using FC gear auto 16 at stock.
    • The car still feel oversteer. increasing front spring (16/12)
    • Tourqe spin mess the handling. reverting flywheel and driveshaft to stock, using larger final drive (5.5)
    • Feel little oversteer. lowering front damper (1/10 1/10).
    • ok
     
  8. sucahyo

    sucahyo

    Messages:
    2,171
    BMW 328Ci at grand valley east.
    • Using test setting the car feel oversteer, the rear is jiggling much, the gear is too long, slide when braking. Lowering front damper (1/10 1/10), lowering front BBC (1/24), lowering auto (auto 9 at 2.500).
    • The rear still jiggling, still sliding when braking, a bit oversteer. lowering rear damper (1/6 1/6), increasing decel LSD (1/1/56).
    • 1:03.xxx using NA. 1:01.xxx using turbo. Still have drifting problem when accelerating out of corner. Increasing LSD (56/56/56), increasing rear spring (12/16).
    • Ok.
     
  9. sucahyo

    sucahyo

    Messages:
    2,171
    RUF CTR Yellow Bird
    • Using test setting the car feel little understeer, jiggling, the rear swing easily perhaps from heavier rear, the gear too long, drift when accelerating and braking. Increase LSD (56/56/56), using FC gear (auto 16 at 4), lowering rear damper (10/1 10/1).
    • The car feel understeer, but feel oversteer when accelerating, still jiggling, acceleration is fine. reversing damper (1/10 1/10)
    • Better, still understeer, the rear still swinging, maybe caused by body roll. Increasing rear stabilizer (1/7), increasing rear spring (12/16).
    • Better, slight understeer, little rear swinging, still slide after braking. Lowering front BBC (1/24).
    • Ok, with lower ride height handling will be even better.
     
  10. sucahyo

    sucahyo

    Messages:
    2,171
    Elise Motorsport
    • Using test setting the car feel very unstable, the car spin on straight. Increasing rear damper (10/1 10/1)
    • No more spin on straight, but still spin on acceleration. reversing damper (1/10 1/10).
    • Spin reduced, but the rear still swaying. increasing rear stabilizer (1/7).
    • Not much rear sway anymore, but the car drift too much on corner. increasing LSD (56/56/56)
    • Drift still exist on braking, the car become slightly understeer. reducing fron BBC (1/24).
    • Drift when braking reduced, the car still unstable, can drift easily on sudden steering but much drivable than before.
     
  11. Parnelli Bone

    Parnelli Bone Premium

    Messages:
    10,431
    Location:
    United States
    Are you talking about the World Cup? This race (trail mountain) is the toughest one out of all 5...it is just intense. Offhand, i can see some areas for improvement.

    1. Your ride hight should be more balanced. You've got your rear all jacked up and the front lowered, which is the #1 reason your Saleen winds up battling itself. I like setting my cars up a bit higher here because of all the bumps; this helps with cornering. Try using settings about 10 to 15mm lower than max.

    2. Your limited slip is too extreme. It seems like a 56/56/56 tuning will be beneficial because in theory this means your car will not spin out. In reality, you WILL wind up spinning out because you'll wind up using too much steering input to counter the slower reaction of the LSD unit. Couple this with the jaked-up rear, and spin-outs are guarnanteed. I find it's best to use softer LSD settings at a track like the mountain--and to rely on countersteer at times if i mess up and get too wobbly. Hey, it's better than a full spinout!

    3. Your springs are too stiff...even at 12.5 and 16. Sucahyo is right; i would reverse those settings. Then i would take it a step further and cut them in half so you've got 8.0 up front and @6.2 in the rear. Once you've done all this, you can use your stabilizers to correct anything you don't like. I probly wouldn't use anything higher than ‘4’.

    4. Finally, you didn't say anything about downforce, but i would try maxing it up front and leaving it close to max in the rear. The tricky thing about this course and Rome is that you're pretty much forced to follow the sim cars into corners....which means you lose all your downforce. So try staying in the wind if you can even if it means being in the wrong area before a corner.
     
  12. Stingray-Man

    Stingray-Man

    Messages:
    114
    Thanks so much guys!:) I wish I had time to write this down as I can't print from work. I will try to keep the general details in my mind to use for my trip.
     
  13. Stingray-Man

    Stingray-Man

    Messages:
    114
    CTR 2 Sport I am trying to tune this car for Red Rock. I have always heard how great this car was, but haven't been impressed because somehow my CTR 2 was just stock and I didn't know it:dopey: I had it upgraded only on another memory card which I don't use much. So, I have decided to give it a test drive. I would love some advice. It feels like understeer is the biggest problem. The car still doesn't turn well while accelerating nor at high speed.:nervous: It slides a little too much in corners :yuck: still in my opinion, even with Super Soft Racing tires. Here is my work so far to the best of my memory.

    • 1st I put auto tranny gear to 15
    • 2nd I made my ride height Min./Max.
    • 3rd I moved damper/rebound and damper/bound all to 4/4 and 4/4
    • 4th I put stabilizers to 1/7 (front/rear)
    • 5th I reduced limited slip to 6/6 16/16 6/6.
    • I have a TCS on set at 2
    • 6th I increased spring rates to 10:1 and 14.6
     
  14. sucahyo

    sucahyo

    Messages:
    2,171
    you test it on redrock valley?

    To reduce slide, use negative rear toe, start with 0.00/-0.20 toe.

    To reduce understeer, if you still use default camber, reduce the front camber maybe to 1.0. If it's not enough make the front spring higher than the rear, go extreme if needed. Reduce the rear stabilizer to 1 too, to get more grip on bumpy corner. With these adjustment I can make the car corner faster on RR valley 1st corner.
     
  15. HYBRIDLVR

    HYBRIDLVR

    Messages:
    1,443
    Ruf and Porches are tricky to fine tune, There pretty much like the Elise or slightly worse, You will have to get the Differential and tranny correct along with the suspension, More brake in the front also, Once you get it, You will love it, I had to shark the Downforce into the Rufs because I absolutely love them, They sound so awesome in GT2!
     
  16. Stingray-Man

    Stingray-Man

    Messages:
    114
    Thanks Suc,
    I am testing on Red Rock Valley. I tried going with extreme spring rates of 14 on front and 20 on the rear, but it seemed to make the car spin alot more and yet didn't seem to help it turn much better. I will try the camber and toe and stablizer adjustments. What should I do with the differentials- LSD?
     
  17. sucahyo

    sucahyo

    Messages:
    2,171
    your are using softer front, use softer rear. I use 16.0/2.0 for spring, 8 times stronger front :). reduce the spring to half if you use PAL version, I don't know about 1.1 or 1.0 NTSC though. The rear seem sensitif to high spring value. You spin because the rear loose traction on bump.

    for LSD, reduce the initial LSD, I find lower is better. I usually use lower all for 4WD. I only use more when there is smoke on inside wheel only.
     
  18. Stingray-Man

    Stingray-Man

    Messages:
    114
    Thanks Suc,
    The Ctr2 Sport is running nicely now. I see why so many people love it. Do the other Ruf's compare?

    My internet connection has been down for a month almost. Good to be back.
     
  19. sucahyo

    sucahyo

    Messages:
    2,171
    BTR and Yellowbird are harder.

    Welcome back :).