Wed 20:30-21:30 UK Time - CLOSED - Suspended until further noticePS4 

Just had a go in the 51, and it's so hard not to spin it under braking! Once you get your light touch right, it's really satisfying to drive. Shame it was cut.
See you later in the 25!

It's satisfying on your own yes, but extremely frustrating to race against other cars in. The unpredictability just doesn't work in a racing scenario when you're having to consider alternate lines and braking points.
 
Nice Ride photos John. I've just found this video you might enjoy. Driving in VR is hard enough to get used to in cars, but this video must have been so hard to film, especially as the position of the headset affects the balance of the bike.



Sorry for going off-topic!
 
Any idea on what colours us ex 51 guys are using?

It's in post 1 on page 1. Now repeated below:

Wed Lotus HSS Round 0.jpg


Note - the teams are now different with the Pro drivers being in Works Teams and the Am drivers being in Privateer Teams.
 
Quick video of how the calibration process currently goes for my T300RS:



(parental advisory: images of violence against wheels)

The result is that the wheel doesn’t calibrate and the FFB is all over the place.

I will try keep racing whilst I think if I am going to replace it or focus on some other hobbies.

In the meantime, are any of the UK players interested on getting my T3PA Pro pedals and TH8A shifter? Both work faultlessly and are a must addition to any T300 setup.

They will be up for sale very soon on eBay if there is no interest here.
 
Last edited:
I can´t use the shifter - its on the wrong side

Oh, its only for UK players
Haha. I fitted it to the left but it can go either way. As a matter of fact, I am able to change quicker IRL with my right hand.

I wrote for UK players only as the postage to Europe would be rather expensive and would not make sense financially. But happy to send it to Germany if you are willing to pay delivery costs. (Or if you are around the Nürburgring the 6th of May I can deliver personally :))
 
Good video that Brno Rj, there a view, something similar in Ride. Whats hard with bike games, only have two wheels. Brake hard, going into bend, loose front end, low side. To much throttle, loose back, high side, Al can knock you off. Physics are very good, can see bike moving, whilst braking, flat out down the straight. Older bikes you can't lean them, over as much, because tyres, their on.:D


DD hope you get your wheel sorted, have tried some updates? How have you got it mounted to the floor, your floor boards same as me. I have a rubber mat, stops all the vibration, going down stairs. Have little movement in my wheel stand, don't a wall in front, so might have fix some wood on the floor.:boggled:
 
Good video that Brno Rj, there a view, something similar in Ride. Whats hard with bike games, only have two wheels. Brake hard, going into bend, loose front end, low side. To much throttle, loose back, high side, Al can knock you off. Physics are very good, can see bike moving, whilst braking, flat out down the straight. Older bikes you can't lean them, over as much, because tyres, their on.:D


DD hope you get your wheel sorted, have tried some updates? How have you got it mounted to the floor, your floor boards same as me. I have a rubber mat, stops all the vibration, going down stairs. Have little movement in my wheel stand, don't a wall in front, so might have fix some wood on the floor.:boggled:

The wheel is at the latest firmware. Because it’s a discontinued wheel there will be no further updates.

I can ‘reset’ the calibration process, but it goes back again to this after playing Pcars2. Resetting the calibration process is painstaking and time consuming.

I use a ‘Wheel stand pro’. Foldable, sturdy, relatively cheap and doesn’t slip on the wooden floor.

https://www.wheelstandpro.com/products/wheel-stand-pro/for-thrustmaster-t300rs-tx-t150-tmx
 
Resetting the calibration process is painstaking and time consuming.
It is! I looked it up.

It probably won't make any difference but did you try one of the auto-calibrating options in PC2? Not RAW.

Do you think THIS might help. It's to fix the HAL sensor - that's used to determine where the wheel is.
 
It is! I looked it up.

It probably won't make any difference but did you try one of the auto-calibrating options in PC2? Not RAW.

Do you think THIS might help. It's to fix the HAL sensor - that's used to determine where the wheel is.

Always helpful Paul.

I followed your advice and changed the flavour to informative. Didn’t make a difference. Last race tried raw, as informative was screwing with the FFB strength (sometimes hard rock, sometimes light as a feather). It worked fine until I lost all FFB.

The link you posted relates to a different problem I am afraid. When the FFB works, it does work perfectly fine. Also, my wheel does not sound like that.

I tried to look on forums but I couldn’t find a definitive solution, rather than giving up on Thrustmaster. I owned a G27 for years and although the FFB was not great, it lasted far more years and abuse than the theoretically superior T300.

I am thinking on buying an entry level Fanatec. But that means forking out £750. The thing is, for that money I can do around six or seven full day track days at Oulton, Donington, Snetterton...
 
I use a ‘Wheel stand pro’. Foldable, sturdy, relatively cheap and doesn’t slip on the wooden floor.

Thanks DD my wheel stand is little old, when had Logtic Wheel, for PS3, couldn't be used on PS4. Mat works fine, stopping vibration, especially with the old cars.:cheers:
 
Last edited:
informative was screwing with the FFB strength (sometimes hard rock, sometimes light as a feather). (Raw) worked fine until I lost all FFB.
Hmm that's slightly odd in itself. Perhaps the signals from PC2 do indeed have an adverse effect on the T300.

Clutching at straws but (using RAW) perhaps lowering the gain considerably might help. It'll give a lighter wheel but the effects might be more consistent and longer lasting. If it does last a race you could then keep raising until it didn't - to find a sweet spot. Maybe try it at 50 and work upwards.
 
Hmm that's slightly odd in itself. Perhaps the signals from PC2 do indeed have an adverse effect on the T300.

Clutching at straws but (using RAW) perhaps lowering the gain considerably might help. It'll give a lighter wheel but the effects might be more consistent and longer lasting. If it does last a race you could then keep raising until it didn't - to find a sweet spot. Maybe try it at 50 and work upwards.

Unfortunately I already tried that... was below 50 in the last race.
 
Wed Lotus 25 Round 1 Ruapuna Park GP.jpg


Early days for the championship, but top Works Team is Pale Blue - Tavilha and IfAndOr. Top Privateer Team is currently Pale Green - RagingBullLC and Old Bass47.

Engine Trivia - Coventry Climax FWMV 1.5 litre V8
During the last race meeting there was some discussion about the fragility of this engine in the game. This has probably been exaggerated by SMS - in real life this engine was reliable, but like other engines of the period it demanded a disciplined approach from the driver. This meant following rev limits set by the team - it was very important not to over rev engines from this period - they had no rev limiters so great care had to be taken when rev matching on down shifts. It is possible that people who are having trouble with engine longevity in the game are changing down too early while braking and are therefore damaging the engine.

It was during the development of this engine that the advantage of cross over exhaust manifolds on dual plane crank V8's was discovered by Gray Ross and Walter Hassan. The improved scavenging raised peak power by 14bhp and raised torque throughout the range. The two outer pipes of each bank of cylinders were coupled with the two inner cylinders from the opposing bank. The Gray Ross exhaust design was shared with Ford via Colin Chapman and produced an increase of 63bhp on the 4.2 litre Ford Fairlane based Indianapolis 500 engine compared with the previously used individual stack pipes. This cross over exhaust design was then used on the Ford GT40's.

More trivia next week!
 
During the last race meeting there was some discussion about the fragility of this engine in the game. This has probably been exaggerated by SMS - in real life this engine was reliable, but like other engines of the period it demanded a disciplined approach from the driver. This meant following rev limits set by the team - it was very important not to over rev engines from this period - they had no rev limiters so great care had to be taken when rev matching on down shifts. It is possible that people who are having trouble with engine longevity in the game are changing down too early while braking and are therefore damaging the engine.

Hi Sick, you probably missed it in the chat but @IBZ6L20VT (DD) found the answer. On the stable setup the controller guys were using for some reason SMS have set the radiator opening to 30%, whereas the loose setup us wheel guys can use is 100%. It wasn't anything to do with their driving style, it was purely the engine overheating.
 
Last edited:
Hi Sick, you probably missed it in the chat but @IBZ6L20VT (DD) found the answer. On the stable setup the controller guys were using for some reason SMS have set the radiator opening to 30%, whereas the loose setup us wheel guys can use is 100%. It wasn't anything to do with their driving style, it was purely the engine overheating.

Rj I was using Stable, in qualifying, blow two engine's, so changed to loose for race, that was better. Only had minimal damage towards the end, Shaun was all so Stable and others who retired. Try again tonight, see what happens at the French track, maybe to hot last race.:D

Think Harsk should try loose, too see what that's like.
 
Did some testing stable in Lotus 25, April was cool, moved to Aug, engine failed. Had mechanical failures on to, lots smoke coming up the hill, was taking engine to red line over revving?:boggled:
 
Back