Understand your universal set of parts for which to buy for your newly/used bought drift car. I personally go for the 2-Way LSD, R3 (or R2 if the car is low powered), and a semi-racing suspension package. Don't forget the oil tune-up.
Usually, if you just turn off all driving aids and have the aforementioned items installed, you should drift just fine (take the Mazda RX-7 RD for example). Minor adjustments here & there could be made if necessary.
Try drifting w/ stock suspension settings. If you feel like the back isn't coming out enough to fit your style*, lower the car a couple and that should reduce the stroke of the suspension, making the roll a bit shorter with the plus of a lower center of gravity. Then, if you really want to harden the back, decrease the (spring rate) length between each spiral which would further reduce the stroke of the suspension (front or rear respectively) to make it harder.
If you need more control during turning, or in your case, drifting, increase front camber. If you followed my parts guide and if you car doesn't have heavy understeer, go ahead and increase the camber by two-three. Also, you could soften up the front a bit if you don't want to adjust your camber after increasing it if you still experience unwanted understeer.
Keep in mind to develop your own reference for settings, or else you'll wind up too dependent on other (including myself) peoples settings. There is a style you must develop. My reference is that drift cars only need little adjustment to do just opposite of what the manufacturer intended it to do.
Also, stick to Standard Tires. If you use really hard Standard tires (R1), you won't be able to use your cars full potential otherwise known as power to the wheels. The Road tires (the third one from the left) should suffice because first of all they're soft enough to transfer your car's power to the wheels and second, they're Standard tires afterall so they should allow the car to exceed it's grip with sports driving/drifting/feinting.
I've played long enough to develop a wierd button combo to drift. Coupled with feinting, you could easily simulate the effects of a clutch kick on a car by doing this in quick sequential order;
1) Downshift
2) Tap e-brake
3) Tap (or hold to stay under rev limiter so RPM's don't keep bouncing) the brakes
4) Tap accelerator and then floor it or floor it altogether
BTW, get to know what suspension does to your car because that will be your best friend over power when you tackle drifting.
By increasing (softening) the spring rate in the front of your car, what you're really doing is allowing the springs to bounce more by enlarging the space between each spiral of the spring. This in turn allows the springs to compress more under the transfer of weight. To compress means allowing the car tip over to the side opposite of the direction your turning to. More weight on one side puts more pressure on the two tires effected by the tipping car. This pressure makes the tires grip better on the road.
Vice versa (hardening) keeps the car from tipping and those two tires on the side that should be getting the heavy end of the weight transfer (when turning) would slip because there's not enough weight holding them down to grip hard enough. Applied to the front of thecar only and you'll get heavy understeer. Try not hardening the front too much.
The effect of a sliding rear on the other hand, could allow you to drift, only if you can control the sliding rear by a dominant front. When you want the front to grip in the middle of a drift (determines length and stability of a drift), it's up to you to adjust the front suspension (camber/height/spring rate/etc...) accordingly.