The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

  • Thread starter TomN
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Anyone who has purchased Test Drive Ferrari Racing Legends to play this game with your wheel you need to change the Sensitivity to "normal"

- “Normal Sensitivity” (requires setup).
This mode is used to keep the steering axis’s central dead zone (a zone which naturally exists on the gamepad).
• Setting “Normal Sensitivity” mode:
Action
LED status
Press the following buttons at the same time:
BLINKS
D-Pad + L3 + R3
Your wheel’s steering is now in normal sensitivity


Took me a while to figure out but now that I have changed the setting game is playable with the T500RS.

Hope this eliminates the headaches for someone else.
 
Need some help here guys, Just got a T500RS from amazon (Used) £263.00 I think I have been stung, wheel is not calibrating one bit, all power lights are on, tried all the usb ports that I have, tried it on a brand new laptop, nothing, gone to Thrustmasters site downloaded the drivers ( i think they are the newest ones, only ones I could find) still nothing. Sent message to Thrustmaster, hope they respond, but it looks like I will be send this back to the swines that sold it. Unless my fellow GT Planet users can help.

Much appreciated guys.
 
warby
Need some help here guys, Just got a T500RS from amazon (Used) £263.00 I think I have been stung, wheel is not calibrating one bit, all power lights are on, tried all the usb ports that I have, tried it on a brand new laptop, nothing, gone to Thrustmasters site downloaded the drivers ( i think they are the newest ones, only ones I could find) still nothing. Sent message to Thrustmaster, hope they respond, but it looks like I will be send this back to the swines that sold it. Unless my fellow GT Planet users can help.

Much appreciated guys.
Click to expand...

might be faulty unity,send it back and get a refund...:grumpy:
 
warby
Need some help here guys, Just got a T500RS from amazon (Used) £263.00 I think I have been stung, wheel is not calibrating one bit, all power lights are on, tried all the usb ports that I have, tried it on a brand new laptop, nothing, gone to Thrustmasters site downloaded the drivers ( i think they are the newest ones, only ones I could find) still nothing. Sent message to Thrustmaster, hope they respond, but it looks like I will be send this back to the swines that sold it. Unless my fellow GT Planet users can help.

Much appreciated guys.
Click to expand...

Have you tried re-installing the firmware, using the utility available at the Thrustmaster site?
 
DaveTheStalker
Are there screw holes on the piece that fell out? Is there a circle cut out of the middle of the (not really) "paper thin" rubber? That cut out is where the spring goes. Are there screws in the bottom of the box? Have you initiated an incident with Thrustmaster?
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Thanks for your reply. If I could upload some crude drawings that I made on my phone to illustrate...

RD9I9.jpg



WPyfv.jpg


Pic A - number one is the right way up, the shaded area is a few millimeters thick rubber. There are three of these one under each pedal including the brake pedal. Number two is it upside down, there's a tube/rod that is screwed into the centre that rod is screwed into the base of the pedal set. This entire unit has fallen out of the gas pedal, not the brake pedal, that is still intact. Number three is my crude drawing of the brake mod, that is still in its original bag sealed and unopened, unused from the factory.

Pic B - If you can picture this as the underside. number one is the gas pedal, the little bolt like drawing I did is where it is welded in place, they're not really bolts but welded, this is were its fallen out from. The other two are intact. This has absolutely nothing to do with the brake mod or the brake pedal which is number two, the one in the centre.

Sorry for the crude drawings, I'm not at home so I can't take photos.

As for contacting Thrustmaster, its a refurbished unit, will they honour it? I've got thirty days to return it anyway, so I think that's what I'll do. But first, I'll try the firmware update over the weekend.
 
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heingericke
Thanks for your reply. If I could upload some crude drawings that I made on my phone to illustrate...

Pic A - number one is the right way up, the shaded area is a few millimeters thick rubber. There are three of these one under each pedal including the brake pedal. Number two is it upside down, there's a tube/rod that is screwed into the centre that rod is screwed into the base of the pedal set. This entire unit has fallen out of the gas pedal, not the brake pedal, that is still intact. Number three is my crude drawing of the brake mod, that is still in its original bag sealed and unopened, unused from the factory.

Pic B - If you can picture this as the underside. number one is the gas pedal, the little bolt like drawing I did is where it is welded in place, they're not really bolts but welded, this is were its fallen out from. The other two are intact. This has absolutely nothing to do with the brake mod or the brake pedal which is number two, the one in the centre.

Sorry for the crude drawings, I'm not at home so I can't take photos.

As for contacting Thrustmaster, its a refurbished unit, will they honour it? I've got thirty days to return it anyway, so I think that's what I'll do. But first, I'll try the firmware update over the weekend.
Click to expand...

There is an actual defect in the product sold to you. I would exchange it right away with the retailer. If they can't exchange it, get a refund and buy a brand new one with a full 2 year warranty. Yes, I'm sure you saved a few bucks on a refurb. Unless the seller is an authorized reseller of Thrustmaster products, they will not give you the 2 year warranty, as new. I think this product is still too new for Thrustmaster to fully embrace warranting refurbs.

To be really honest with you, i would just get a refund. Take your cash, add to it, and buy a new unit from a legit seller. Either a physical store or an authorized Internet seller such as Amazon or TigerDirect. eBay and Crsigslist are not your friend in all situations. You NEED the security of a 2 year warranty.

I hesitate before even considering buying a refurb. Warranty is crucial!

EDIT: I wouldn't even do the firmware update. The retailer might try to say that you altered the product. Which you are.
 
DaveTheStalker
EDIT: I wouldn't even do the firmware update. The retailer might try to say that you altered the product. Which you are.
Click to expand...


I completely agree with you and will be following your advice. I think it would be the sensible thing to do. Thanks for your reply, friend.
 
NoneEvo
What setup u guys using with t500rs in gt5? i dont like driving assist on and my ffb only 4 is good for me.
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I change mine depending on when I workout. A few months back, maybe 6 I had my FFB at 10 all the time, when I started weight training after a year absence I pulled muscles in both shoulders lol so now I turn down the FFB to 6/7 depending how sore I am, and I definitely don't use the T500 after a shoulder workout lol
 
Mahnegold
I had set steering to "simulation", no active steering and FFB @ 5

This worked fine for me.
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The "Simulation" setting only affects old wheels. Notice the pictured wheels when you move the pointer to a different setting.
 
DaveTheStalker
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99WP4zkfqZM&feature=em-uploademail

SimRacingTonight review of the Bodin Load Cell Brake Mod
Click to expand...

The BLC-T500 preview is also available on the InsideSimRacing.TV main page. I think Darin and Shaun have done a very good job of providing a fair and in-depth preview.

I don't recall if they specifically mentioned it, but the load cell mod CAN be used with the T500 pedals in the "F1" or the "GT" (inverted) position (my load cell is identical to the one they reviewed, and I have my pedals mounted in the "GT" or inverted position) -- plus, as they mentioned, the mod is fully compatible with both the PC and the PS3.
 
S.O.S.
Hello all my name is Rafa community and am in Lugo, I need to make you a consultation and not to make my T500RS work, I tell you the steering wheel is new about switching my old G25, after adapting the cockpit for the new wheel, install the drivers correctly, I get the manager to calibrate and configure the forces I think is all right, I'll try it and it turns out with RBR (the simulator I use) starts well but after a few meters slows down screen, it distorts the sound and makes stoppages screen, steering wheel without the cams I have it I put a spacer and an adapter for a Sparco steering wheel and dispensed with the steering wheel buttons.
The new PC is also specific for Gaming, the forums can not find any similar problem, I'm desperate and if someone can help out or give me a recommendation I thank you.
Thank you very much.
Español:
Hola a toda la comunidad me llamo Rafa y estoy en Lugo, necesito haceros una consulta ya que no se que hacer para que mi T500RS funcione, os cuento el volante es nuevo lo cambie por mi antiguo G25, despues de adaptar el cockpit para el nuevo volante, instale los drivers correctamente, me aparece el manager para calibrarlo y configurar las fuerzas es decir creo que todo bien, lo voy a probar y resulta que con RBR (es el simulador que utilizo) empieza bien pero a los pocos metros se ralentiza la pantalla, se distorsiona el sonido y hace parones de pantalla, el volante lo tengo sin las levas le puse un separador y un adaptador para un volante Sparco y prescindi de los botones de volante.
El PC tambien es nuevo especifico para Gaming, no encuentro por los foros ningun problema similar, estoy desesperado y si alguien me puede echar una mano o darme alguna recomendacion os lo agradezco.
Muchas gracias.
 
JohnBodin
The BLC-T500 preview is also available on the InsideSimRacing.TV main page. I think Darin and Shaun have done a very good job of providing a fair and in-depth preview.

I don't recall if they specifically mentioned it, but the load cell mod CAN be used with the T500 pedals in the "F1" or the "GT" (inverted) position (my load cell is identical to the one they reviewed, and I have my pedals mounted in the "GT" or inverted position) -- plus, as they mentioned, the mod is fully compatible with both the PC and the PS3.
Click to expand...

The review sounded really good. Nice job and congratulations to John and a big thank you from T500 users. I will definitely be getting your mod, probably around Christmas time. I agree with Darin and Shaun, it's pretty ingenious how you used existing realistic brake mod to attach the load cell and it appears super easy to set up. Having never used a load cell I'm looking forward to trying one in the near future.
 
NoneEvo
Bro,whats your settings? i have a huge deadzone when turning after configuring the wheel.
Click to expand...

Thrustmaster settings:

Rotation: 900 degrees

FFB strength: 60% (didn't notice, I will change it to 100%)

constant: 100%
periodic: 100%
spring: 100%
damper: 100%

auto-center: by the game


iRacing-Settings:

wheel rotation: 900 degrees
car rotation: 900 degrees

FFB: 8.0
damper: 0


I hope that helps!
 
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JohnBodin
The BLC-T500 preview is also available on the InsideSimRacing.TV main page. I think Darin and Shaun have done a very good job of providing a fair and in-depth preview.

I don't recall if they specifically mentioned it, but the load cell mod CAN be used with the T500 pedals in the "F1" or the "GT" (inverted) position (my load cell is identical to the one they reviewed, and I have my pedals mounted in the "GT" or inverted position) -- plus, as they mentioned, the mod is fully compatible with both the PC and the PS3.
Click to expand...

Yes, John, they did mention that your Bodin T500rs Load Cell Brake Mod can be used in both configurations :) Great job inventing such a welcomed product! Proving once again, "necessity is the mother of invention"! 👍

Come February, if you have a V2 by then, I will most likely buy one (If my wife lets me)
 
DaveTheStalker
Yes, John, they did mention that your Bodin T500rs Load Cell Brake Mod can be used in both configurations :) Great job inventing such a welcomed product! Proving once again, "necessity is the mother of invention"! 👍

Come February, if you have a V2 by then, I will most likely buy one (If my wife lets me)
Click to expand...

LOL! Try convincing your wife you're buying up all kinds of odd parts in order to create a marketable load cell in the first place . . . which will then require ordering LOTS more parts en mass in order to go into production!

:scared:
 
I'm going to be attaching my new F1 wheel add-on later on tonight and was wondering if anyone had any guides for how to do it?
Cheers!
 
If any of you guys saw the BLC-T500 review on insidesimracing I was wondering how to remove the black bar on the pedals. you can see it without the bar around 0:55.
 
Scottish GT5
I'm going to be attaching my new F1 wheel add-on later on tonight and was wondering if anyone had any guides for how to do it?
Cheers!
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The instruction (in the box) is pretty spot on. Make sure you don't over tighten the small screw. Also remember before anything else update the firmware.

On a slightly different subject: someone on ISI Forum (Real Factor 2 Beta Forum) measured the torque force of the T500RS vs the G27:


TechAde
I just rigged up a contraption to measure the torque of the G27 and T500RS...

G27 0.68kg * 0.45m = 3.0Nm
T500RS 1.38kg * 0.45m = 6.0Nm

Quite pleased as I've been telling people the T500RS feels about twice as powerful as the G27. :)
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As he measured it using the PC driver, he also notes that he kept the "Overall Strength of all forces" set to 60% and anything above that yield the same number (i.e. makes no difference). But be aware that it's (Overall Strength of all forces) quite different from setting the FFB number in GT5.
 

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