I need advice on LSD tuning for AWD vehicles

[Zabka21]

I'm having trouble getting AWD cars to turn well and I know it is the LSD. My values must be wrong for the front because it pulls off weird on acceleration out of turns, please help!!

 

[lbpomg95]

Some AWD cars are different to others. Are there any in particular that you're finding difficult?

I usually find that low values on the rear and high-ish values at the front make it more predictable accelerating out of corners if that helps.

 

[Zabka21]

Some AWD cars are different to others. Are there any in particular that you're finding difficult?

I usually find that low values on the rear and high-ish values at the front make it more predictable accelerating out of corners if that helps.

The Subaru STI grB road car on Tokyo is giving me a lot of problems. I have higher values in the front and lower in the rear and the front end definitely dictates the power bias. Even when I change the torque split to a rear bias it just pulls like it is understeering but that isn't the case. All my other AWD cars aren't having this issue. The Castrol Celica and the McLaren F1 GTR for example are perfect with the values higher in the front, this STI is strange and my Isle of Man STI doesn't drive like this STI either, very strange. I'm going to play around with it and see what I can find.

 

[lbpomg95]

Can't really help there as I haven't driven it. I use the Suzuki Escudo with max rear downforce and minimum front downforce, with 1,000bhp it's under 800pp for the Sardegna race, so it actually earns money faster than Tokyo.

Suspension tuning can help though - if you set your Toe angle to a slightly negative (toe out) value, that should help a little. I generally keep negative camber to around 0.4-0.8 front and rear. Toe out on the front should help with turn-in when lifting off, and toe out on the rear should encourage oversteer under acceleration

 

[Zabka21]

Can't really help there as I haven't driven it. I use the Suzuki Escudo with max rear downforce and minimum front downforce, with 1,000bhp it's under 800pp for the Sardegna race, so it actually earns money faster than Tokyo.

Suspension tuning can help though - if you set your Toe angle to a slightly negative (toe out) value, that should help a little. I generally keep negative camber to around 0.4-0.8 front and rear. Toe out on the front should help with turn-in when lifting off, and toe out on the rear should encourage oversteer under acceleration

Right now it's set at 0.10 out in the front and 0.20 in at the rear. I'm going to mess around with it now, it's a great car for Tokyo with sport mediums, I win by 25 to 30 seconds but it just drives weird. I still haven't gotten the chance to get the escudo but I use the McLaren F1 GTR long tail for Sardegna and it is a monster and AWD. I also like the 08 Nismo GT500 and the 08 NSX GT500, both cars get 1:34 lap times and are super easy to control. If you have them you gotta try them.

 

[lbpomg95]

Right now it's set at 0.10 out in the front and 0.20 in at the rear. I'm going to mess around with it now, it's a great car for Tokyo with sport mediums, I win by 25 to 30 seconds but it just drives weird. I still haven't gotten the chance to get the escudo but I use the McLaren F1 GTR long tail for Sardegna and it is a monster and AWD. I also like the 08 Nismo GT500 and the 08 NSX GT500, both cars get 1:34 lap times and are super easy to control. If you have them you gotta try them.

The McLaren is rear-wheel-drive. Not sure what your set-up is but you can use that downforce trick with most race cars - minimum front and max rear makes the car a bit understeer-y but super stable and allows you to run much more power at the same PP

 

[bread82]

@ OP, Do you mean the Subaru WRX Gr.B road car? The only Gr.3 I can see is RWD.

AWD are very hard to set LSD on compared to FF or FR.

I played with the Gr.B a while ago and it's a challenge. I'll post a tune later today, as I'm still tweaking her (stock power, stock SH tyres).

A few ideas: the default suspension setup on this car is understeery, even with high rear torque bias from the centre diff. The first thing I did was set all LSD to minimum and add rear spring and ARB until she was more nimble. Otherwise you're starting with a bad base and the diffs are having to do all the correctional work.

At the moment my diffs are quite low, F 5/13/5 and R 5/17/5. There's some inside wheel spin on both axles, they may be able to be raised in proportion. With centre torque 30/70 she's driveable.

 

[Zabka21]

@ OP, Do you mean the Subaru WRX Gr.B road car? The only Gr.3 I can see is RWD.

AWD are very hard to set LSD on compared to FF or FR.

I played with the Gr.B a while ago and it's a challenge. I'll post a tune later today, as I'm still tweaking her (stock power, stock SH tyres).

A few ideas: the default suspension setup on this car is understeery, even with high rear torque bias from the centre diff. The first thing I did was set all LSD to minimum and add rear spring and ARB until she was more nimble. Otherwise you're starting with a bad base and the diffs are having to do all the correctional work.

At the moment my diffs are quite low, F 5/13/5 and R 5/17/5. There's some inside wheel spin on both axles, they may be able to be raised in proportion. With centre torque 30/70 she's driveable.

Yes, my mistake, group B, I mistakenly wrote group 3.

 

[Zabka21]

The McLaren is rear-wheel-drive. Not sure what your set-up is but you can use that downforce trick with most race cars - minimum front and max rear makes the car a bit understeer-y but super stable and allows you to run much more power at the same PP

I must have been in another world when I wrote that, I made multiple mistakes, I was talking about the Toyota GR010 Hybrid, not the McLaren at all. I don't know what the hell I was thinking.

 

[lbpomg95]

I must have been in another world when I wrote that, I made multiple mistakes, I was talking about the Toyota GR010 Hybrid, not the McLaren at all. I don't know what the hell I was thinking.

No problem The downforce trick still stands. You can get a bit more power at the same PP with the downforce trick which cancels out the cornering difference, generally allows faster laps.

 

[bread82]

Try this setup:

WRX Gr.B road Car (suspension, brake and LSD tune only, all other parts stock)

Suspension F/R
Ride height: 80/120 mm
ARB: 2/6
DampC: 25/25 %
DampE: 35/35 %
Nat freq: 2.0/1.5 Hz
Camber (-): 2.0/1.5 deg
Toe: 0.00/ Out 0.15

LSD (IT/Acc/Dec)
Front: 5/13/5
Rear: 5/17/5

Brake Balance 3 (rear)

Notes: I prefer the centre diff at 30:70, but adjust to your own taste. You can also try higher LSD Locks, but I found keeping the rear higher then the front was best e.g. F 5/15/5, R 5/25/5. Even having the front diff full open 5/5/5 is viable.

The suspension tune does a lot of the work here, the settings are basically what a FF car would use, stiff rear bar, rear toe out etc. Stock, the car understeered on power and on turn in. Once the turn in is sorted it makes exit easier even if there still can be a little understeer.

In real life, I think the Subaru DCCD Centre Diff initially provides 50:50 torque even if set to a rear bias, and only starts to bias rearwards when the front can't take any more torque. The Nissan 4WD system on early Skyline GTRs is the opposite, in that is is basically rear wheel drive and only sends torque to the front when the rears are at the limit of traction. I've no idea if this is simulated in game. Either way 4WDs are tricky beasts.

Comments and feedback welcome.