T300 RS GT FFB settings

[mrwick20]

Hey guys, recently managed to get my hands on a T300 RS GT. Looked through the forum but haven't found recommended FFB settings after the 1.31 update. What would you guys recommend running?

 

[dkstz]

Hey man, I just got one of those as well and I'm using 5/2/7 (as in 5 controller sensitivity, 2 force feedback and 7 feedback sensitivity)...

It's my first wheel and I'm still struggling to catch oversteer, so using a low FFB until I get the hang of it.

Will follow the thread... Cheers!

 

[Octopus-GT]

3/1 Is the current sweet spot imo.

 

[Pigems]

For those who just got it, make sure to keep the fan set to “always on” mode, I used the crap out of mine and never had a heating issue with it that way. Instruction to do so are on the TM website, it’s super easy to do.

 

[Tommy_D]

Biggest thing I notice in FFB is the controller sensitivity. I vary this depending on the car and the tires it has on it. A street car with comfort tires gets a sensitivity of 5. highly tuned street cars or race cars with sports tires or racing hards gets a sensitivity of 4. High downforce cars or cars running Racing medium or softs get sensitivity of 3 to avoid clipping.

 

[dkstz]

Biggest thing I notice in FFB is the controller sensitivity. I vary this depending on the car and the tires it has on it. A street car with comfort tires gets a sensitivity of 5. highly tuned street cars or race cars with sports tires or racing hards gets a sensitivity of 4. High downforce cars or cars running Racing medium or softs get sensitivity of 3 to avoid clipping.

I'm using 7... Do you think I should lower it?

What would be the practical difference when driving?

 

[VR-SORN]

I only use 10 and 10.
Everything else just feels weak.
I think its a subjective setup for the feel.
I need to get a much more powerful wheel than this.

 

[Tommy_D]

I'm using 7... Do you think I should lower it?

What would be the practical difference when driving?

It depends on how your wheel base is reacting to the information the console is giving it. I have found that when the cars have low grip (street cars with comfort tires) the console gives very little information to the wheel which makes it feel like there is no FFB. So I increase the sensitivity. When the cars have more grip (tuned street cars or race cars (gr.4, 3, 2)) the console is sending out more FFB information to the wheel. You can really feel when the suspension is loading up and that FFB increases. If you turn too hard you feel the wheel slip and it coincides with massive understeer/plowing. Thats the front tires losing grip with the road. The FFB settings are set correctly, imo, when I get this type of reaction from the wheel. In the situation of high downforce and high grip cars, the suspension will load up very easily and the wheel will get really firm. Then all of a sudden the wheel breaks free and the car cuts hard in the direction of your steering input. That is the wheel clipping because it does not produce enough FFB resistance and the motor inside the base gave up the ghost. Thats bad. Thats when you want to turn down the sensitivity so you no longer get that clipping.

If your wheel is not clipping, then don't turn down the sensitivity. Keep it where its at, or turn it up until you get clipping. If that happens, you know you went too far and you can pull it back a notch or two.

 

[dkstz]

Got it.... Will try these scenarios you described in the TT of this week, there's a crappy road car which breaks traction easily and also the Olympic one with a high downforce Gr.1...

Thank you!

 

[Galvston]

I only use 10 and 10.
Everything else just feels weak.
I think its a subjective setup for the feel.
I need to get a much more powerful wheel than this.

what car feels like this irl?

 

[Pigems]

I only use 10 and 10.
Everything else just feels weak.
I think its a subjective setup for the feel.
I need to get a much more powerful wheel than this.

By maxing it out, you’re missing out on some of the finer more important details. Most aliens only run 3/4 torque. Just like maxing out a speaker and having the sound go all crackly.

 

[VR-SORN]

what car feels like this irl?

Normal road cars I have been used to driving. No power steering would be the pattern.
To be realistic for me there needs to be a 100 100 equivilent setting, where you have to grunt and use body weight to turn the wheel when doing the full lock.
I have used arm and wrist weights strapped onto me to try and make steering more effort but its a bit annoying to have to do that.

So I suppose if you are used to cars with powersteering, low torque and detailed feedback is nice. But to me it feels too remote. I feel when its super strong resistance I can feel the car moving around corners. It doesnt matter If I am missing finer details.
I do want the best of both though so I am ready to buy a high end expensive wheel.

 

[sejtur]

Normal road cars I have been used to driving. No power steering would be the pattern.
To be realistic for me there needs to be a 100 100 equivilent setting, where you have to grunt and use body weight to turn the wheel when doing the full lock.
I have used arm and wrist weights strapped onto me to try and make steering more effort but its a bit annoying to have to do that.

So I suppose if you are used to cars with powersteering, low torque and detailed feedback is nice. But to me it feels too remote. I feel when its super strong resistance I can feel the car moving around corners. It doesnt matter If I am missing finer details.
I do want the best of both though so I am ready to buy a high end expensive wheel.

A direct drive wheel with max settings might be right up your alley. Good luck!

 

[cjr3559]

A direct drive wheel with max settings might be right up your alley. Good luck!

A DD purchase will likely be coming sooner than later running a T300 on 10/10 all the time. Good luck with THAT.

In regards to ‘Controller Sensitivity’ settings, ever since GT6 (and possibly GT5), this setting affects controllers not wheels. I’ve tested this over the years and personally have never noticed any changes in wheel FFB adjusting the CS.

FFB settings are whatever feels best to you personally, and it depends whether you want to kill your wheel or not. I kept the settings kind of low on the T300; like 3 or 4 for both. FFB on road cars on comfort tires felt generally light, and conversely high powered GT3 cars and greater on racing tires felt strong but not overly so.

I say experiment with multiple class cars and even try extreme settings until dialed in. It may take time but a good baseline for all cars/tracks can be found without changing settings every car unless preferred.

 

[VR-SORN]

I have had my T300RS on 10/10 or whatever maximum was on all the GT games since PS3 days. 2014 I got mine I think. Still works. On some longer races it can overheat and the resistance goes. But it doesnt kill it (not yet). Doing back to back race C events the few minutes gap between races must be just enough to give it a cooldown.

 

[sejtur]

I have had my T300RS on 10/10 or whatever maximum was on all the GT games since PS3 days. 2014 I got mine I think. Still works. On some longer races it can overheat and the resistance goes. But it doesnt kill it (not yet). Doing back to back race C events the few minutes gap between races must be just enough to give it a cooldown.

Now that’s a trooper.

 

[Pigems]

Normal road cars I have been used to driving. No power steering would be the pattern.
To be realistic for me there needs to be a 100 100 equivilent setting, where you have to grunt and use body weight to turn the wheel when doing the full lock.
I have used arm and wrist weights strapped onto me to try and make steering more effort but its a bit annoying to have to do that.

So I suppose if you are used to cars with powersteering, low torque and detailed feedback is nice. But to me it feels too remote. I feel when its super strong resistance I can feel the car moving around corners. It doesnt matter If I am missing finer details.
I do want the best of both though so I am ready to buy a high end expensive wheel.

12nm he figured is about realistic, for a GT3 car. So these 20+ nm DD wheels are just overkill.

 

[Tommy_D]

I only use 10 and 10.
Everything else just feels weak.
I think its a subjective setup for the feel.
I need to get a much more powerful wheel than this.

With a 10/10 setting isn't your wheel base clipping all the time or do you exclusively drive low power street cars on Comfort tires? I get clipping on most cars if I try to set the sensitivity above 6. My wheel base is a newer one with a PS5 setting on the switch.

 

[VR-SORN]

The T300 is about 4nm isnt it?
I have been mostly driving race cars in the dailys. I need the most resistance I can get.
From my experiances with real karting at a pay per drive my arms are tired after a 10minute session and I'm exhausted as I give it everything.
So thats part of the reason I wanted to simulate the hard effort of driving, even if its not in a kart in GT7.
I'm not sure if i get clipping. Maybe im not getting any force detail just maximum left and right resistance to steering.

I did read recently what other people were using as settings. I tried it and after a few corners I was appalled and quit. I could have used just fingers to drive it.
So I do kind of treat my racing as excercise. A bit of fitness.
blisters on the hand a good reassuring sign of effort too.

 

[Pigems]

The T300 is about 4nm isnt it?
I have been mostly driving race cars in the dailys. I need the most resistance I can get.
From my experiances with real karting at a pay per drive my arms are tired after a 10minute session and I'm exhausted as I give it everything.
So thats part of the reason I wanted to simulate the hard effort of driving, even if its not in a kart in GT7.
I'm not sure if i get clipping. Maybe im not getting any force detail just maximum left and right resistance to steering.

I did read recently what other people were using as settings. I tried it and after a few corners I was appalled and quit. I could have used just fingers to drive it.
So I do kind of treat my racing as excercise. A bit of fitness.
blisters on the hand a good reassuring sign of effort too.

If you’re spending all your energy just holding onto the wheel, then you are wasting energy that could be better spent feeling the smaller details of what the wheel is trying to tell you, and energy to focus on the driving. Like I said, most of the top tier aliens only run 3/4 torque, so there must be a reason for it. You’re not getting the most out of your wheel by running it on 10, and are likely shortening up its life span at the same time.

 

[VR-SORN]

I would certainly be faster at lower torque but I dont enjoy it.
I also think the wheel is designed to do it. It cuts out the motor to stop overheat damage.
Wear and tear is fine if i've been having fun. I have had it many years.

 

[Pigems]

I would certainly be faster at lower torque but I dont enjoy it.
I also think the wheel is designed to do it. It cuts out the motor to stop overheat damage.
Wear and tear is fine if i've been having fun. I have had it many years.

Yeah, if you put the wheel to “fan always on”, it won’t cut the power, because he fan will stay on at all times, instead of only when called for. As far as realism, after leaving a dead stop, even cars with no power steering don’t require that much force to turn the wheel, and I even used to own a racing kart when I was younger. Being fast is what’s fun, winning and such. Not sure what fun is to be had if you’re tired after 10 min of driving, that would be boring to me. I do 1-3 hour endurance races, I couldn’t imagine having the wheel so heavy that 15 min was enough to physically tire me out.

 

[VR-SORN]

Always on still cuts the force power, it does this to me. It just means the fan is always on.

"“Automatic” cooling mode:
• When you are using the wheel in a game, the cooling fan starts up when the wheel has reached
a certain temperature.
(= after a few minutes of gameplay, depending on the strength of the Force Feedback effects used)
• When you’re done playing: due to the motor’s thermal inertia, the cooling fan continues to
operate until the temperature drops below the fan’s startup level. Your wheel has been
designed in this way in order to facilitate cooling, and to protect the motor.
(= this may take from 5 to 45 minutes, depending on the temperature reached while using the wheel in a
game)
“Forced” cooling mode: (requires Firmware V25 or above)
• In this mode, the cooling fan operates whenever the racing wheel is powered up, and stops only
when the wheel's USB connector is no longer powered.
This mode enables quicker cooling of the motor, and is particularly useful:

• When playing with a very high Force Feedback setting
• When playing in a high-temperature environment "