GT5 Quick Tune: ***VERSION 3.1***

First of all I would like to say good chart/graph,I have some questions.What is the power to weight kg/hp?I see default is 2.75 how do I figure this?And weight distrubution I gather is when you add weight or take away? Thanks
 
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jarocc7
First of all I would like to say good chart/graph,I have some questions.What is the power to weight kg/hp?I see default is 2.75 how do I figure this?And weight distrubution I gather is when you add weight or take away? Thanks
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weight distribution I assume refers to the percentage in the ballast settings, while stock. power to weight to can be found in the 'Current Performance' tab in the tuning menu

pretty neat and useful little spreadsheet. helping me tame my Ford GT LM car but it gave me some odd toe settings.. but it seems to handle more conservatively and playing around with the level & fine tune values change it drastically
 
dropsonde
weight distribution I assume refers to the percentage in the ballast settings, while stock. power to weight to can be found in the 'Current Performance' tab in the tuning menu
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Correct, except if you're using ballast you'd probably want to enter your current weight distribution.

pretty neat and useful little spreadsheet. helping me tame my Ford GT LM car but it gave me some odd toe settings.. but it seems to handle more conservatively and playing around with the level & fine tune values change it drastically
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Glad you found it useful. "Conservative" is exactly what I'm shooting for, as it's what works for me as a driver of average skill using a controller with no aids. Also happy to see the new fine tune function working for you as many people, including myself, found the first version severely lacking.
 
Thanks for version 2 with the addition of weight distribution ;)

2 suggestions though, have a (blue) section with weight and one for power so I dont need to use a calculator to work out power to weight ratios and instead of having a column for each layout simply have a collumn for Front, Rear and All wheel drive.

Thanks!
 
tuga703
2 suggestions though, have a (blue) section with weight and one for power so I dont need to use a calculator to work out power to weight ratios and instead of having a column for each layout simply have a collumn for Front, Rear and All wheel drive.
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The power-to-weight ratio is actually listed in the vehicle setting screen, you don't have to use a calculator. Since you have to go into that screen to get the weight distribution anyway, I thought it would be more streamlined having one input instead of two. Condensing the drivetrain columns is something I have in mind for the next release, I'm just not sure how I want to rearrange everything yet. I'm also working on new parabolic formulas for toe and LSD which I think will be a major improvement. Glad you find it useful.
 
Thanks! I hope to have v3.0 done within the next week or so. I'm just working on finishing up the new formulas for aerodynamics. I think you guys are really going to like this one.

:cheers:
 
Im looking forward tto the next sheet but i dont see how i can use the downforce part you are speaking of with road cars which is what i mostly race with

Impress me!
 
tuga703
Im looking forward tto the next sheet but i dont see how i can use the downforce part you are speaking of with road cars which is what i mostly race with
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You can't, obviously. In that case you just ignore the downforce input and output.
 
tuga703
What about the aero parts from GT auto ?
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Unfortunately, the formulas I have devised will only work on race cars or tuner cars with adjustable front downforce. The rear downforce will be extrapolated from the maximum front downforce based on certain parameters. Since the fixed front setting with the GT Auto aero kits is usually extremely low, very often zero, it will almost invariably spit out invalid values for the rear. On a personal note, I dislike these aero kits specifically because of this lack of front downforce and almost never use them. Maybe in the future I'll figure out a work-around, but right now my efforts are directed elsewhere.
 
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This is probably a noob question but how do you know how much front downforce there is when it is not adjustable?
 
You can see the ghosted non-adjustable front setting in the downforce adjustment screen, assuming you have a wing installed.
 
Thanks yet again, I love how compact and simple you have made the whole thing, I like the scale adjustment so I should be able to use the transmission on cars like the FGT and the caterham where I couldn't fit the gear ratios before.
 
Thanks for the update and all the hard work you've put in to this!

I'm just a bit confused about the transmission settings in v3.0. I see the gear ratios change when the power and torque settings are changed but I'm not sure how to incorporate that in to my settings for final gear & max speed.

In your previous gear tuning sheet there's a box to set desired top speed and it generates a Final Gear ratio for you. It's probably glaringly obvious but it's got me stumped lol. Could you give me an idea about how you use this feature?

Thanks again for sharing your hard work with us, it really has helped me get much more enjoyment out of the game.

Mark
 
That's an excellent question. The simple fact was that there was no way to integrate the complete gear sheet into Quick Tune without ending up with an unholy mess of a spreadsheet. Not only did the final drive calculations more than double the overall complexity, it required the user to look up vehicle tire sizes online. This conflicted with my goal of making it fast and user friendly, not to mention that it's nearly impossible to find tire sizes for various rare and/or race cars.

Luckily, figuring out the optimum final drive for yourself is not incredibly difficult. My method consists of taking the car to SSR7 and making increasingly small adjustments to the final drive until the car hits maximum speed just before the gear change light starts flashing in top gear. To save a bit of time I do a 180 degree turn at the start and drive backwards through the fastest tunnel, then do another 180 and drive through it again. This saves several minutes versus doing a full lap. If you find yourself hitting the limits of the final drive adjustment range use the Scale feature to alter the transmission ratios in order to correct this. You should now have a gear set that works sufficiently well for any track in the game, although you may want to shorten the final for smaller tracks (using the same method) or raise it for drafting.

Glad you enjoy it. Keep the comments, questions, and suggestions coming.
 
I love the fact that I have to look up real world figures on the previous version of the Gears tuning spreadsheet. There plenty of site that provide this information readily.

It would be nice though if there was a database that could store all of this information on each car in the game, albeit this would be an arduous task to undertake. Then you could pick the car you want to setup, choose the top speed, type of track you plan on racing, ie Speedway or Circuit and then have the program calculate gear and suspension setting for you.
 
Eric W
I love the fact that I have to look up real world figures on the previous version of the Gears tuning spreadsheet.
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That's an odd thing to love. :lol:

It would be nice though if there was a database that could store all of this information on each car in the game, albeit this would be an arduous task to undertake. Then you could pick the car you want to setup, choose the top speed, type of track you plan on racing, ie Speedway or Circuit and then have the program calculate gear and suspension setting for you.
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Yeah, arduous wouldn't even begin to describe cataloging 1000+ cars and then fitting all of them into a drop-down. As far as tires go, my best option would be to use a modified version of the tire size correction tool. You would enter whatever final drive you're currently running and what speed it redlines at in X gear and it would then it would calculate the tire diameter from that. Not particularly elegant or accurate, however.
 
oppositelock
That's an excellent question. The simple fact was that there was no way to integrate the complete gear sheet into Quick Tune without ending up with an unholy mess of a spreadsheet. Not only did the final drive calculations more than double the overall complexity, it required the user to look up vehicle tire sizes online. This conflicted with my goal of making it fast and user friendly, not to mention that it's nearly impossible to find tire sizes for various rare and/or race cars.

Luckily, figuring out the optimum final drive for yourself is not incredibly difficult. My method consists of taking the car to SSR7 and making increasingly small adjustments to the final drive until the car hits maximum speed just before the gear change light starts flashing in top gear. To save a bit of time I do a 180 degree turn at the start and drive backwards through the fastest tunnel, then do another 180 and drive through it again. This saves several minutes versus doing a full lap. If you find yourself hitting the limits of the final drive adjustment range use the Scale feature to alter the transmission ratios in order to correct this. You should now have a gear set that works sufficiently well for any track in the game, although you may want to shorten the final for smaller tracks (using the same method) or raise it for drafting.

Glad you enjoy it. Keep the comments, questions, and suggestions coming.
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I've gone and confused myself again, it's getting increasingly easy to do, I must be getting old. :dopey:

I've got a mental block on this one and if it's off topic I appologise. So when setting your gears what do you set the max speed slider to? Do you set it to the minimum speed, the max or somewhere around where the max speed you are aiming for? I still don't understand what the suggested gear ratios given in v3.0 relate to when adjusting the transmission.

Sorry for being a nuisance, it's just I'm now getting cars handling really well with the use of your sheet that I think the next step for my lap time improvements is going to come from gear tuning (as well as improved driving obviously).

Many thanks!

Regards

Mark
 
When I get home tonight I'll post up a step-by-step process using a specific car as an example. It seems like most people have a fully tuned ZR1 RM so I'll use that as a reference unless you have another popular car you'd prefer. Just don't pick a road car as most of mine are not fully tuned and will probably have different specs than yours.
 
Alright, here we go. Let's start by punching in the specs for our RM ZR1 into Quick Tune. In this case we have 905 HP, 830 lb-ft, and 1100 kg. Our recommended transmission ratios are now:

3.194
2.172
1.618
1.255
1.000
0.816

Let's pop into the transmission screen and check out the defaults.

6151775482_ed78571863_b.jpg


Now, in this case we've lucked out in that we can plug in the Quick Tune gears right away as they all fall within the current adjustment ranges. However, for the sake of demonstration I will show you what to do in the more likely scenario that they don't fit. My preferred technique is to get both FIRST GEAR and the SECOND TO LAST GEAR in the same ballpark as the suggested QT gears. Here we can see that 5th gear is already very close to 1.000, but if it weren't you would simply adjust the top speed until it is. After that's done, compare both 1st gears. Here we can see that 1st is currently too short (numerically too high), which means we need to tighten the spread. To correct this we will progressively lower (numerically raise) the final drive, lower the top speed to reset 5th to roughly 1.000, then recheck 1st gear (If 1st is too tall you would reverse the process i.e. numerically lower the final and raise the top speed). Try pushing the final up to 3.800 and lowering the top speed to 199. You will see 1st is now 3.379, which is closer to our goal of 3.194. Repeat this process until you get something like this:

6151227121_cfd2d15de0_b.jpg


Now, you don't have to be anywhere as accurate as this, usually if your 1st is within 0.200 of the QT 1st you'll be fine, this is just for demonstration. At this point plugging in our QT gears is a piece of cake as the values are now very close.

6151775518_451757a2f9_b.jpg


Boom, there we go. At this point we have no idea what we want our final gear to be, so what we do is make an educated guess and take it for a spin on SSR7. In this case I'll guess 3.300. Make sure your aerodynamics are where you want them before proceeding. Since this is a circuit setup I have mine maxed out (35/60).

6151227155_e0857df431_b.jpg


Oops, too short. The car is redlining in 6th and still pulling. Let's try 3.000.

6151227177_8539fa670c_b.jpg


Much better, it's no longer over-revving, but it's still not quite optimal. Let's try to get that tach needle right up smack against the redline.

6151775562_92652f7614_b.jpg


That's more like it. After a couple more test drives I end up with a 3.100 final. This is as optimized as is humanly possible, in my opinion. Some caveats, however:

A) Obviously, if you plan on drafting you may have to raise the final.

B) Some cars fall flat on their face way before redline (R33 GT-R LM Road Car, Cuda 440, etc.). If top speed is a concern at all you will have to run a taller final to keep the car in the powerband.

C) If you're working on a top-speed-only tune you might want the car to max out near the RPM which coincides with peak HP rather than redline.

Finally, once in a while you'll come across a car where no amount of jockying will get the gears to fit. This is especially common in extremely slow K-cars and the type. This is where the Scale and Spread functions come into play. If you run into this problem and can't figure it out I'll try to talk you through it.
 
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What are the changes in V3.0? I've used V2 for quite a few tunes and it is close to spot on!! Excellent program. Many Thanks........:;)
 

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