Fanatec PWTS tested

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dzidza

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Dzidza1978
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Dzidza1978
Ok, first things first, it works perfectly right of the hat. There is no need to press triangle to activate the clutch, if you don't want to use the clutch and h shifter, and shift through floppy pedals, it automatically engages clutch for you, so you can concentrate on braking, and acceleration :-). The best settings that i found is ingame FFB at 3, PWTS FFB 50%, Drift settings 2, 900 deg., abs 100%, shock 100%. For some reason if you put ingame settings to more then 5, than i couldn't feel good when going over red/white curbs.

Additional in game mapping is done at DFP setting, not on DFP GT.

If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask.

Once again thx to Amar, GTPlanet, and Fanatec for great product :-).

Patiently waiting for 24th.........

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=4172586#post4172586
 
Is this really a question? Oh well, this is going to be cool thank you for this info!👍:)
 
awesome! is there any setting that can reduce the weight of the wheel? I play GRID and they have a weight setting that makes it easier to turn and easier to drift. And that rumble strip thing is interesting ... please more testing!
 
Also what are the shifting options? can you use the h shifter without the clutch? Paddles with clutch? sequintial with clutch? thanks a lot for checking it out. Us Fanatec users got scared there for a min.
 
How about the deadzone setting for the PWTS? In the TT Trial on Indy it was an issue. To much steer pulling on the straight.
 
andrez004
Also what are the shifting options? can you use the h shifter without the clutch? Paddles with clutch? sequintial with clutch? thanks a lot for checking it out. Us Fanatec users got scared there for a min.
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H shifter without clutch is not an option, car goes into neutral. Sequential i will try at Amar tomorrow :-).
Deadzone is still there (shaking), but it's not 95% of TT. You can only see it if your hands aren't on the wheel itself, otherwise you can not feel it. One word, everything is, in my book brilliant.

Weight of the wheel when counter steering is eliminated by the Drift setting.
 
dzidza
H shifter without clutch is not an option, car goes into neutral. Sequential i will try at Amar tomorrow :-).
Deadzone is still there (shaking), but it's not 95% of TT. You can only see it if your hands aren't on the wheel itself, otherwise you can not feel it. One word, everything is, in my book brilliant.

Weight of the wheel when counter steering is eliminated by the Drift setting.
Click to expand...

thanks for the info. that sucks about the h-shifter without clutch! what about the paddles with clutch? and thanks alot
 
Excellent news.
 
I guess this means the PWC is fully working as well. *Presses submit on order form* Can't wait!!!
 
My PWTS is not working with GT5. I've only had the wheel for 3 weeks, yet it shipped with older firmware. I have no idea which, but it's has the old FF and Shock increments of 33-66-100. It's worked great with FORZA and F1 2010. I only have a Mac so I can't update the firmware. I'm scared of that anyway since it sounds like people have had some issues.

While the feel of the wheel is fabulous I have plenty of problems. Most glaringly, sometimes it doesn't power on. I don't know if it has something to do with the circuits inside contracting and expanding due to temp or a flex in the internal boards due to bolting it to my Obutto cockpit. But the wheel definitely has quality control issues. I also have to calibrate the h-shifter pretty much every time I use it.

My problems with GT5 are that i can calibrate it and get it to work through gears, in that as I shift I can see the gear select say 1,2,3,4,5 and as the driving starts it works but quickly the gears seem to drop out, the car goes to N and gear selection no longer works.

Any ideas?
 
David_Bohm
My PWTS is not working with GT5. I've only had the wheel for 3 weeks, yet it shipped with older firmware. I have no idea which, but it's has the old FF and Shock increments of 33-66-100. It's worked great with FORZA and F1 2010. I only have a Mac so I can't update the firmware. I'm scared of that anyway since it sounds like people have had some issues.

While the feel of the wheel is fabulous I have plenty of problems. Most glaringly, sometimes it doesn't power on. I don't know if it has something to do with the circuits inside contracting and expanding due to temp or a flex in the internal boards due to bolting it to my Obutto cockpit. But the wheel definitely has quality control issues. I also have to calibrate the h-shifter pretty much every time I use it.

My problems with GT5 are that i can calibrate it and get it to work through gears, in that as I shift I can see the gear select say 1,2,3,4,5 and as the driving starts it works but quickly the gears seem to drop out, the car goes to N and gear selection no longer works.

Any ideas?
Click to expand...

I read somewhere when hard mounting you can throw off something in the belt drive. But yours seems to have more problems. I would look through the 911wheel forums and then try to contact customer support. I wish ya good luck!
 
I have a PWT wheel that does not work at all. :(

When I start the game and switch to PS3 mode, nothing happens.

Looks like several more has problems, and there is no info to see on the Fanatec website, I'm getting scared I might have to buy another wheel to get to play GT5 with . :(

PS. Mine worked with GT5:Prologue.
 
I have the same issues with the wheel and there is no settings to adjust the clutch etc. it works for a while but soon it hits neutral and wont shift has anyone else had the same issue?
 
I've managed to get my shifter working to some degree now.

However after a messing around for a couple hours I believe I am having an issue with my standard Fanatec pedals. I'm getting the erratic brake and throttle response.

It's clear as day when playing GT5 thanks to the red and white indicator arcs. I get brake input simply from the rumble from FF throughout my cockpit frame. Any pressure upon the pedal base will also cause the brake to activate. Press the accelerator or clutch and I get unwanted brake input as well.

There is considerable discussion about this on the FORZA forums:

http://forums.forzamotorsport.net/forums/10/3404289/ShowThread.aspx

http://forums.forzamotorsport.net/forums/thread/3620662.aspx
 
dzidza
\ The best settings that i found is ingame FFB at 3, PWTS FFB 50%, Drift settings 2, 900 deg., abs 100%, shock 100%. For some reason if you put ingame settings to more then 5, than i couldn't feel good when going over red/white curbs.
Click to expand...

So I got a gt3rs and I can't find a setting where I can actually feel the rumble strips. What settings are you gt3rs users using?
 
I am also having trouble with clubsport pedals and h-shifter. If I shift extremely slow it works. Shifting normally then trans stays in neutral. Game is unplayable now. I have the latest firmware.
 
grizzjeeper
I am also having trouble with clubsport pedals and h-shifter. If I shift extremely slow it works. Shifting normally then trans stays in neutral. Game is unplayable now. I have the latest firmware.
Click to expand...

That problem isn't with the wheel or any firmware. The problem lies with the game. PD disallowed power shift, so that non clutch users aren't with disadvantage over clutch users. This can only be solved with game update.
 
I don't understand why some people pay 300€ for these wheels...
 
andrez004
So I got a gt3rs and I can't find a setting where I can actually feel the rumble strips. What settings are you gt3rs users using?
Click to expand...

I had trouble feeling rumble strips on G25 also, some of them i can feel, and some i don't (with PWTS also). But this is in my opinion problem with game not the wheels.
 
dzidza
That problem isn't with the wheel or any firmware. The problem lies with the game. PD disallowed power shift, so that non clutch users aren't with disadvantage over clutch users. This can only be solved with game update.
Click to expand...

Yeah g27 owners are complaining too...

What I've noticed with the pwts, is if you engage the gear whilst the car is redlining , you get then neutral 'penalty' , and need to disengage gear and go again.
( I really thought it wasnt working initially, or had a random bug)

as you say, it's probably to prevent power shifting, but seems to kick in too frequently, you can get on both up and downshifts
in practice makes gear changing much slower with shifter...

Bit odd really pd decided to put in, as auto clutch is very fast, and even heels n toes for you!
 
I've got a GT3 RS V2 hooked up and it works great. I haven't taken delivery of the H and sequential shifters yet, so can't comment on that right now. Still mucking around with the settings to find something that's right. I'll give your settings a twirl, dzidza, thanks for posting them up!
 
I just want to finish off with verifying that it was indeed my potentiometers inside the pedal assembly that was causing the problem. Fanatec h-shifter with clutch works flawlessly now.

I used a little super glue to set each in place before putting gobs of epoxy on each. I recommend letting each one set-up before moving on to the next since they are such delicate little things and it's a difficult working area.

Also, it is very important to let them set 24 hrs before using the pedals. I noticed I had still a touch of brake influence hour or so after gluing them but when allowed to fully cure everything is working great!
 
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