1/4 Mile Drag Tuning Help?

CarCzar · Aug 11, 2011

Hey all, I am new to 1/4 Mile drag racing at Indy. I have had some heluva time trying to tune my transmission. Now I am not asking people for specific tunes for their cars, as I know how drag racers guard their tunes like no other.

But I want to ask for a favor from those who know drag racing pretty well. I just want to know how most people tune their transmissions. i.e Do you lower the final gear and run high individual gears? Or what other approach do you take?

Thanks in advance! 👍

d24689 · Aug 11, 2011

I dont tune for indy much, I tune for SSR7 but wat you need to do is move you final gear to the right to shorten all of your gears, then move each gear into place so they all look pretty evenly spaced.

DLR · Aug 11, 2011

Lower front, raise rear, loosen up rear suspension, shorten gear ratios... LSD doesn't have any impact on straight line speed so you font need to really mess with that.

What cars you runnin?

CarCzar · Aug 11, 2011

Hey thanks for the reply, I was wondering more along the lines of gear tuning specifics. Like how to start a transmission tune for the 1/4 mile. I'm decent at tuning suspensions because I used to race Le Mans Prototypes all day long :cool:

Here is some basic information on what I used, as asked for previously.

Cars: Audi Nuvolari Quattro '03, Tommy Kaira ZZII, Dodge Viper '03, and SRT10.
Controller: Thrustmaster TS 500.

ROYALEFATALE · Aug 11, 2011

honestly the fastest way to tune your tranny is reset it, then drop the top speed as low as it will go, and raise/lengthen the final gear ratio so you're hitting the rev limiter in your final gear as you're crossing the line, then adjust your launch gear/ballast (if necessary) for best launch

for RWD cars you want the front spring rate as soft as possible and the rear somewhere between standard and 75%, this setup asks the car to transmit as much weight as possible to the rear, where it can be used to pin the rear tires to the track - hopefully, front compression at 10, rebound at 1, rear compression at 8, rebound at 6, this allows the front of the car to slowly rise and fall on launch, keeping maximum weight/grip on the rear tires, as far as ride height goes drop the front end and lift the rear

for FWD the same applies for ride height, you want the front spring rate between standard and 75%, rear spring rate as high (stiff) as possible, this configuration tries to stop the forward momentum of the car from transferring too much weight to the rear - keeps the nose down and the car angled forwards over the front wheels. Works well when ballast is added over the front of the car. if the vehicle makes large torque or power it may be necessary to retain a lower spec flywheel (to slow the torque delivery) or launch in higher gears., front compression at 1, rebound at 10, rear compression at 10, rebound at 1, you'll also most likely need a little ballast if you're launching in 2nd, somewhere around 30-50kgs to still be able to pull in higher gears

for AWD it's a combination of FR and FWD setup, we want to keep the front AND the back of the car from rising or falling too much, as this costs traction at either end of the car, front spring rate at 50%, rear at 75%, ride height in the front should be dropped a little and raised slightly higher than stock in the rear, 4 compression up front and 4 rebound, 4 compression in the rear and 8 rebound, torque split of 50/50, also lowering your 1st gear ratio (lengthening) as far as it will go will keep the car from smoking too much on launch, AT transmission really helps with AWD launching if your tranny is set up right

TT3AZ · Aug 11, 2011

ROYALEFATALE
honestly the fastest way to tune your tranny is reset it, then drop the top speed as low as it will go, and raise/lengthen the final gear ratio so you're hitting the rev limiter in your final gear as you're crossing the line, then adjust your launch gear/ballast (if necessary) for best launch

for RWD cars you want the front spring rate as soft as possible and the rear somewhere between standard and 75%, this setup asks the car to transmit as much weight as possible to the rear, where it can be used to pin the rear tires to the track - hopefully, front compression at 10, rebound at 1, rear compression at 8, rebound at 6, this allows the front of the car to slowly rise and fall on launch, keeping maximum weight/grip on the rear tires, as far as ride height goes drop the front end and lift the rear

for FWD the same applies for ride height, you want the front spring rate between standard and 75%, rear spring rate as high (stiff) as possible, this configuration tries to stop the forward momentum of the car from transferring too much weight to the rear - keeps the nose down and the car angled forwards over the front wheels. Works well when ballast is added over the front of the car. if the vehicle makes large torque or power it may be necessary to retain a lower spec flywheel (to slow the torque delivery) or launch in higher gears., front compression at 1, rebound at 10, rear compression at 10, rebound at 1, you'll also most likely need a little ballast if you're launching in 2nd, somewhere around 30-50kgs to still be able to pull in higher gears

for AWD it's a combination of FR and FWD setup, we want to keep the front AND the back of the car from rising or falling too much, as this costs traction at either end of the car, front spring rate at 50%, rear at 75%, ride height in the front should be dropped a little and raised slightly higher than stock in the rear, 4 compression up front and 4 rebound, 4 compression in the rear and 8 rebound, torque split of 50/50, also lowering your 1st gear ratio (lengthening) as far as it will go will keep the car from smoking too much on launch, AT transmission really helps with AWD launching if your tranny is set up right

Good facts, may i ask where you found that stuff? My tuning basics are similar.

Take a look at this thread, i have written some tip as well:
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=139748&page=4

DLR · Aug 11, 2011

CarCzar
Hey thanks for the reply, I was wondering more along the lines of gear tuning specifics. Like how to start a transmission tune for the 1/4 mile. I'm decent at tuning suspensions because I used to race Le Mans Prototypes all day long Here is some basic information on what I used, as asked for previously.

Cars: Audi Nuvolari Quattro '03, Tommy Kaira ZZII, Dodge Viper '03, and SRT10.
Controller: Thrustmaster TS 500.

Also try to get Nissan GT-R and Audi Le Mans Quattro. Top 2 at Indy IMO.

CarCzar · Aug 11, 2011

Thanks for sharing all of this with me, as I know how reluctant drag racers can be to share their secrets! This is great. Although the more advice the merrier as I assume there are multiple ways to tune the tranny on this game.

DLR · Aug 11, 2011

CarCzar
Thanks for sharing all of this with me, as I know how reluctant drag racers can be to share their secrets! This is great. Although the more advice the merrier as I assume there are multiple ways to tune the tranny on this game.

As you play you will learn more secrets of your own 👍

TT3AZ · Aug 11, 2011

Well, secrets, i usually tell everyone all i know, it isnt a big deal. But if you give them your fastest setup, then you are 🤬

. Transmission trick that i use for indy is following:

1) Max speel all way to left
2) Final gear all way to right
3) Max speed one klick to right
4) Max speed one klick to left again
5) Adjust final gear as you wish.

By doing this, you could have a pretty long first gear, and very short 2 to 6 gear

Hope it helps. On 4wd cars i use all 6 gears, on high power rwd cars i launch in 2nd gear, and exit in 6th, thats because 1st gear cant be made long enough to fit in with a short 6.

btw i have a le mans quattro laying around, thinking about tuning it for drag, i just need another one, so i can have one for ssr7 and for indy 1/4 mile

.

DLR · Aug 11, 2011

TT3AZ
Well, secrets, i usually tell everyone all i know, it isnt a big deal. But if you give them your fastest setup, then you are 🤬 . Transmission trick that i use for indy is following:

1) Max speel all way to left
2) Final gear all way to right
3) Max speed one klick to right
4) Max speed one klick to left again
5) Adjust final gear as you wish.

By doing this, you could have a pretty long first gear, and very short 2 to 6 gear Hope it helps. On 4wd cars i use all 6 gears, on high power rwd cars i launch in 2nd gear, and exit in 6th, thats because 1st gear cant be made long enough to fit in with a short 6.

btw i have a le mans quattro laying around, thinking about tuning it for drag, i just need another one, so i can have one for ssr7 and for indy 1/4 mile .

Well tell all your secrets and people can usually put the puzzle pieces together and make a great tune.

As for your le mans, go ahead and break it out. Then you will have a little time to tune it before I get back

DeolTheBeast · Aug 11, 2011

TT3AZ
Well, secrets, i usually tell everyone all i know, it isnt a big deal. But if you give them your fastest setup, then you are 🤬 . Transmission trick that i use for indy is following:

1) Max speel all way to left
2) Final gear all way to right
3) Max speed one klick to right
4) Max speed one klick to left again
5) Adjust final gear as you wish.

By doing this, you could have a pretty long first gear, and very short 2 to 6 gear Hope it helps. On 4wd cars i use all 6 gears, on high power rwd cars i launch in 2nd gear, and exit in 6th, thats because 1st gear cant be made long enough to fit in with a short 6.

btw i have a le mans quattro laying around, thinking about tuning it for drag, i just need another one, so i can have one for ssr7 and for indy 1/4 mile .

I hope I'm not sounding a fool but don't steps 3/4 just leave you in the same situation? :dopey:

rperez915 · Aug 12, 2011

ROYALEFATALE
honestly the fastest way to tune your tranny is reset it, then drop the top speed as low as it will go, and raise/lengthen the final gear ratio so you're hitting the rev limiter in your final gear as you're crossing the line, then adjust your launch gear/ballast (if necessary) for best launch

for RWD cars you want the front spring rate as soft as possible and the rear somewhere between standard and 75%, this setup asks the car to transmit as much weight as possible to the rear, where it can be used to pin the rear tires to the track - hopefully, front compression at 10, rebound at 1, rear compression at 8, rebound at 6, this allows the front of the car to slowly rise and fall on launch, keeping maximum weight/grip on the rear tires, as far as ride height goes drop the front end and lift the rear

for FWD the same applies for ride height, you want the front spring rate between standard and 75%, rear spring rate as high (stiff) as possible, this configuration tries to stop the forward momentum of the car from transferring too much weight to the rear - keeps the nose down and the car angled forwards over the front wheels. Works well when ballast is added over the front of the car. if the vehicle makes large torque or power it may be necessary to retain a lower spec flywheel (to slow the torque delivery) or launch in higher gears., front compression at 1, rebound at 10, rear compression at 10, rebound at 1, you'll also most likely need a little ballast if you're launching in 2nd, somewhere around 30-50kgs to still be able to pull in higher gears

for AWD it's a combination of FR and FWD setup, we want to keep the front AND the back of the car from rising or falling too much, as this costs traction at either end of the car, front spring rate at 50%, rear at 75%, ride height in the front should be dropped a little and raised slightly higher than stock in the rear, 4 compression up front and 4 rebound, 4 compression in the rear and 8 rebound, torque split of 50/50, also lowering your 1st gear ratio (lengthening) as far as it will go will keep the car from smoking too much on launch, AT transmission really helps with AWD launching if your tranny is set up right

In reagrds to the Suspension tunning, i've read that thier is a glitch in the game that swaps the setting for front and rear. Is this true that means you would need to basically tune the front as you would the rear and vice versa. Correct?

DLR · Aug 12, 2011

rperez915
In reagrds to the Suspension tunning, i've read that thier is a glitch in the game that swaps the setting for front and rear. Is this true that means you would need to basically tune the front as you would the rear and vice versa. Correct?

Never heard that...

Capt_Hick · Aug 12, 2011

ROYALEFATALE
honestly the fastest way to tune your tranny is reset it, then drop the top speed as low as it will go, and raise/lengthen the final gear ratio so you're hitting the rev limiter in your final gear as you're crossing the line, then adjust your launch gear/ballast (if necessary) for best launch

for RWD cars you want the front spring rate as soft as possible and the rear somewhere between standard and 75%, this setup asks the car to transmit as much weight as possible to the rear, where it can be used to pin the rear tires to the track - hopefully, front compression at 10, rebound at 1, rear compression at 8, rebound at 6, this allows the front of the car to slowly rise and fall on launch, keeping maximum weight/grip on the rear tires, as far as ride height goes drop the front end and lift the rear

for AWD it's a combination of FR and FWD setup, we want to keep the front AND the back of the car from rising or falling too much, as this costs traction at either end of the car, front spring rate at 50%, rear at 75%, ride height in the front should be dropped a little and raised slightly higher than stock in the rear, 4 compression up front and 4 rebound, 4 compression in the rear and 8 rebound, torque split of 50/50, also lowering your 1st gear ratio (lengthening) as far as it will go will keep the car from smoking too much on launch, AT transmission really helps with AWD launching if your tranny is set up right

Wow dude you're tunes suck, for FR and 4WD cars that iis not the way you should be setting them up. The only thing you got part right is using an automatic, and you really don't even need to do that, atuomatic slows you're car down.

Capt_Hick · Aug 12, 2011

TT3AZ
Well, secrets, i usually tell everyone all i know, it isnt a big deal. But if you give them your fastest setup, then you are 🤬 . Transmission trick that i use for indy is following:

1) Max speel all way to left
2) Final gear all way to right
3) Max speed one klick to right
4) Max speed one klick to left again
5) Adjust final gear as you wish.

Wtf? Put you're top speed all the way to the left to lower it all the way, and put you're final gear all the way to the right so you're total top speed drops even more? Whats you're top speed 50?

Wow, thats not a secret, thats just being a moron

ROYALEFATALE · Aug 12, 2011

Capt_Hick
Wow dude you're tunes suck, for FR and 4WD cars that iis not the way you should be setting them up. The only thing you got part right is using an automatic, and you really don't even need to do that, atuomatic slows you're car down.

this is how cars react in real life, have you heard of the laws of physics? also run any manual GT-R35 against an automatic, the (properly setup) automatic will take a half a car in the first 2 or 3 gears EVERY time 👍

Capt_Hick · Aug 12, 2011

ROYALEFATALE
this is how cars react in real life, have you heard of the laws of physics? also run any manual GT-R35 against an automatic, the (properly setup) automatic will take a half a car in the first 2 or 3 gears EVERY time 👍

So GT5 is real life now? because last time I checked In real life, 4WD sucks for drag racing, the majority of 4-8 seconds cars are RWD for a reason. Now I don't know to much about car physics and drag racing in real life but in GT5 those tunes are completely wrong.

I've beaten and lost to R35s in manual, running in automatic vs manual all depends on how good of a tune you have vs the other. Manual is faster because you can hit the proper shift points at the proper RPM to get the max amount of torque and power. Automatic just runs untill the gear ends.

Now Im not saying im the god of drag racing on here, but my cars (the ones I tune obsiviously) are fast and I normally don't lose. I have some the fastest muscle cars and 2 good 4WD cars and a few other cars, and their tunes are nothing like what you said.

Michelin · Aug 12, 2011

as we're talking about drag racing... could anyone help me with a Lancia Delta HF Integrale Evoluzione '91 for a drag race at SSR7? PP is 420PP and tires are Comfort Soft. If anyone can help me, I would be very happy

Capt_Hick · Aug 12, 2011

NascarManiaco99
as we're talking about drag racing... could anyone help me with a Lancia Delta HF Integrale Evoluzione '91 for a drag race at SSR7? PP is 420PP and tires are Comfort Soft. If anyone can help me, I would be very happy

I don't know anything about tunnel dragging, but I know that you should replace those comfort soft tires with racing soft.

DLR · Aug 12, 2011

Capt_Hick
Wow dude you're tunes suck, for FR and 4WD cars that iis not the way you should be setting them up. The only thing you got part right is using an automatic, and you really don't even need to do that, atuomatic slows you're car down.

+1

The tunes he posted don't make sense to me either. I beat about 95% of the people I meet and my tuning is totally different than that...

ROYALEFATALE · Aug 12, 2011

Capt_Hick
So GT5 is real life now? because last time I checked In real life, 4WD sucks for drag racing

haha what? we're talking about production cars here not alcohol fueled funny cars, with comparable HP the AWD will have a faster ET every time as the RWD only has 2 wheels to balance the same amount of power = loss of traction = loss of acceleration 👍

Capt_Hick · Aug 12, 2011

ROYALEFATALE
haha what? we're talking about production cars here not alcohol fueled funny cars, with comparable HP the AWD will have a faster ET every time as the RWD only has 2 wheels to balance the same amount of power = loss of traction = loss of acceleration 👍

Whatever man a 9-12 second car isn't a a top fuel dragster and I've seen plenty of RWD and 4WD matchups and 4WD losses every time. I highly doubt that a GTR (hell, any 4WD car) can lanch like what they do in GT5. Like I said before I don't know about alot of drag racing in real life but I do know, that there is a reason why when you go higher up in the brackets, lower in seconds you see more RWD, not 4WD. I know people who are into drag racing and the've told me and explained why RWD is supreior to 4WD. But just like in GT5 and in real life it all depends on the who has the better tune.

Honestly I don't care about 4WD vs RWD, but the point is, the tunes that you stated in your post; suck both RWD and 4WD.

TT3AZ · Aug 12, 2011

Capt_Hick
Wtf? Put you're top speed all the way to the left to lower it all the way, and put you're final gear all the way to the right so you're total top speed drops even more? Whats you're top speed 50?

Wow, thats not a secret, thats just being a moron

Tu 🤬....stop running your mouth when you dont know what you talking about.

First of all, this was the transmision trick as i said, you do that so you can tune your gears more flexible. If you dont know what this is about, dont write.

TT3AZ · Aug 12, 2011

Capt_Hick
Whatever man a 9-12 second car isn't a a top fuel dragster and I've seen plenty of RWD and 4WD matchups and 4WD losses every time. I highly doubt that a GTR (hell, any 4WD car) can lanch like what they do in GT5. Like I said before I don't know about alot of drag racing in real life but I do know, that there is a reason why when you go higher up in the brackets, lower in seconds you see more RWD, not 4WD. I know people who are into drag racing and the've told me and explained why RWD is supreior to 4WD. But just like in GT5 and in real life it all depends on the who has the better tune.

Honestly I don't care about 4WD vs RWD, but the point is, the tunes that you stated in your post; suck both RWD and 4WD.

Haha, you are a joke, the things he posted was basic tuning in gt4, and it works in gt5 as well. The 4wd setup does make sence, thats what im using more or less on my gtr, and i launch pretty good. And yes, if you have tight gears on a awd car, running at indy, auto trans will help you for sure.

Stop running your mouth and insulting people, why dont you say what is wrong instead about our theories, and come with better examples?

For example, what suspension do you think is good for awd drag cars in gt5? Come on write it down....

And by the way, on some cars, you can still be fast without using these traditional real life settings, but on manny cars, the settings apply. Take a look at GME tunes, they run settings that arent the "usual", still they work. But, if you are new to tuning, and dont have a clue, using these settings that we posted could be a good help. Second, if you are a pro, and know everything abiut tuning in gt5, why are you reading this help thread? That doesnt make any sence...

TT3AZ · Aug 12, 2011

DaLightninRacer
+1

The tunes he posted don't make sense to me either. I beat about 95% of the people I meet and my tuning is totally different than that...

Dont make sence, then come with examples on where hes wrong. The statement that you beat 95% of the people doesnt matter, because those people may suck at tuning. In the beggining of gt5, mercedes sl600 could beat enzos, but that was only because manny people couldnt tune individual gears, you see...

ROYALEFATALE · Aug 12, 2011

TT3AZ
Tu 🤬....stop running your mouth when you dont know what you talking about.

he's clueless, don't bother, i run into so many of these retards that also brag online then you run them and it's not even close.

DLR · Aug 12, 2011

TT3AZ
Dont make sence, then come with examples on where hes wrong. The statement that you beat 95% of the people doesnt matter, because those people may suck at tuning. In the beggining of gt5, mercedes sl600 could beat enzos, but that was only because manny people couldnt tune individual gears, you see...

I drag enough to know who is good and who is not. I have already made a name for myself with the people I usually drag with and many invitations to join teams after I take out their leader lol

Here are my corrections:

ROYALEFATALE
honestly the fastest way to tune your tranny is reset it, then drop the top speed as low as it will go, and raise/lengthen the final gear ratio so you're hitting the rev limiter in your final gear as you're crossing the line, then adjust your launch gear/ballast (if necessary) for best launch (That is the general way to tune your tranny. I use a little trick that makes 1st extra long, shorting all the other gears without shift lag while all still in powerband and redlining at the finish.)

for RWD cars you want the front spring rate as soft as possible (Front suspension has minimal impact on drag racing. It is the rear that matters.) and the rear somewhere between standard and 75%, this setup asks the car to transmit as much weight as possible to the rear, where it can be used to pin the rear tires to the track (If you want as much weight transfer as possible then you want the lowest possible spring rate. Too stiff and you will just be spinning. )- hopefully, front compression at 10, rebound at 1, rear compression at 8, rebound at 6, this allows the front of the car to slowly rise and fall on launch, keeping maximum weight/grip on the rear tires, as far as ride height goes drop the front end and lift the rear

for FWD the same applies for ride height, you want the front spring rate between standard and 75%, rear spring rate as high (stiff) as possible, this configuration tries to stop the forward momentum of the car from transferring too much weight to the rear - keeps the nose down and the car angled forwards over the front wheels. Works well when ballast is added over the front of the car. if the vehicle makes large torque or power it may be necessary to retain a lower spec flywheel (to slow the torque delivery) or launch in higher gears., front compression at 1, rebound at 10, rear compression at 10, rebound at 1, you'll also most likely need a little ballast if you're launching in 2nd, somewhere around 30-50kgs to still be able to pull in higher gears

for AWD it's a combination of FR and FWD setup, we want to keep the front AND the back of the car from rising or falling too much, as this costs traction at either end of the car, front spring rate at 50%, rear at 75%, (Again, this is where you want softer suspension. )ride height in the front should be dropped a little and raised slightly higher than stock in the rear, 4 compression up front and 4 rebound, 4 compression in the rear and 8 rebound, torque split of 50/50 (50/50 split is NOT the best setup. I know this for a fact as I experimented with this a LOT), also lowering your 1st gear ratio (lengthening) as far as it will go will keep the car from smoking too much on launch, AT transmission really helps with AWD launching if your tranny is set up right

TT3AZ · Aug 12, 2011

DaLightninRacer
I drag enough to know who is good and who is not. I have already made a name for myself with the people I usually drag with and many invitations to join teams after I take out their leader lol

Here are my corrections:

Well, the points you pointed out depends. The rear should be soft yes, i agree, but on some cars, a verry few, it should be slightly harder. Seconds, regarding the awd setup, you want the rear to be a stiffer, because, you dont want that much of a weight transfermen to the rear wheels. But, remember, his setup are used with 50/50 torque. If he would be running like 30/70, then the rear would probably be more soft, since most of the power is sent to the rear wheels. And thats what you are missing. According to my sources, they say the opposite, that 50/50 is the best for traction.

You still havent posted what settings you are using, while we have, so how do we know if your setings does make sence?

BryCivicSi · Aug 12, 2011

One thing you don't do is tune the trans to hit the redline. Look at a torque/ HP graph. What you commonly see is after the peak HP and torque is a decline. This is a loss of acceleration. You need to set your trans so that your shift points are from peak torque to peak HP and repeat.
Don't get me wrong, you are still accelerating after peak HP but not as fast of a rate as you were before it.

I got this info from a teacher who had his own alcohol drag car for many years.

How to do this in GT5? I have no clue how to tune a trans properly in GT5. I would assume set the trans so the top speed it what you hit at the end of the 1/4 mile. Find where the peak torque is and find the peak HP. Find a way so that if you use an auto trans, it shifts at the peak HP RPM and make sure it lands at the next gear at the peak torque RPM.