NASCAR help (tuning, etc) (Solved)

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Negrumir
Okay, this might end up being a quick question, it might also delve into some tuning discussion. So mods, if I put this in the wrong section, or if there's a thread that answers these questions; do as you must.
I'm going to be rather specific so this likely won't already have been covered and I just couldn't find it.

Anyway, first question. To be answered after reading the whole post. :)
Am I simply not cut out for NASCAR/ do I just suck?
I've beaten the NASCAR special challenges, hated them, beat nearly everything else in the game. Just to say that I'm not that terrible. lol

Is my set up just bad?
I know it can be improved, but for these cars, the usual things seem to not have the effect they usually do. I'll post what I can remember of it and how I drive.

Is the NASCAR A.I. just a bunch of complete *** holes?
I'm fairly certain they're prejudiced against me. Does anyone else notice this?

Now to explain my story to better help you answer my questions.

That NASCAR at Nurburgring Seasonal a while ago, I couldn't even catch the last car. Within 30 seconds, I couldn't even see the pack and the gap just widened until it was about 45 seconds by the end of the first lap. Gave it my all, tried a dozen set ups, retried the event about 30 times before giving up in frustration.

Now, I've tried the NASCAR championship, ended up in second due to an unforeseen dead-last at High Speed Ring. (Got wrecked twice and couldn't catch up fast enough) and a 10th place at Daytona. (saw this coming) With a simple retry, I'm certain I'll be able to get gold, but I'm more trying to improve how I handle these cars than just win.

I have to set ups, on for oval/super fast tracks, and one for technical courses.

The one for Ovals:
Downforce: 35 front, 40 rear. (c'mon who needs downforce on an oval?)

Transmission, I can't remember mostly. The important parts are 3rd and 4th gear. 3rd takes me to 209 so I don't lose as much speed in corners. 4th will go up past 240 or something so I can use the huge slipstream boost to catch up on straights.

Suspension.

Every thing left default except Camber and toe. Toe in the rear is set to 0.0 instead of +.20. Camber front/rear is 6.0 5.4 respectively.

Diff slip is 40 initial 40 accel 20 decel.

Running on Racing softs with ABS at 1 and no other assists. Using a DS3.

The problems I'm having with it:
Indy is a cakewalk, the A.I. are too slow through the corners and I cruise on past them. Daytona ruins me every time. When I hit a corner, I take the middle or inner line and just lose speed from 214-228+ until I'm at about 190 upon exit. The A.I. catches up and goes blazing past mid/end corner. (or slams me or pits me)

What am I doing wrong? I can catch them and accelerate faster than them on the straights, but the big corners cause me slow down so much that most of them pass me. I mean, they must be going 210 - 220 and just hold it; exiting at around 200 or more every time. (varies +/- if in slipstream/not)

So I've not been able to get any better than 7th on this race. Due to slowing down, I either get passed or they just slam me at +20MPH of my speed, or impose themselves on my driving line and I'm spun out. I've tried to simply ride at the back of the pack and use slipstream to pass at the last moment, but they either just pull away from me, or a couple cars hang back and the rest of the pack pulls away.

Now for the problems I'm having with technical courses; Grand Valley Speedway and Laguna Seca:

My tune:

Downforce max on front/rear.

Transission set to a max of 210MPH. No special adjustments other than 1st being bumped to a higher speed a little bit. (to reduce the chance of wheelspin exiting slow corners.)

Suspension: Ride height dropped as low as possible. Rear toe set to 0.0 Front toe set to -.10
Front/rear camber set to 2.0/1.5 respectively.
Everything else default.

Diff-slip is 40 initial, 40 accel, 15 decel.

Running on Racing softs, no assists except ABS 1.

The problems I'm having. Nothing that stops me from winning, but it's problematic. The tires are constantly losing traction when accelerating, braking and cornering. Going into the red and/or creating clouds of smoke. Accelerating I understand, but braking and cornering? I've driven every other class of car and none of them do this, or at least, not to this extreme.

For example, coming up and over the slightly winding hill after the first hairpin at Grand Valley. Tires lose traction through the easy corners at the top of the hill, car wobbles severely. Then the front tires lock up as I apply the brakes coming into the second hairpin. With almost any easy, flat (not embanked) corner with a slight variation in altitude (almost every corner at Grand Valley except hairpins) the side tires start going red and then start smoking unless I back off. Sometimes it the inside tires, sometimes the outside. Sometimes more in the front or back dependent on braking or accelerating. Either way, no car should lose this much traction on soft slicks at the speeds I'm going. I'm trying to hang onto the car much more than I'm trying to set a record or anything.

Braking and turning immediately causes the front tires to lock up. (not in a perfectly straight line though) ABS is either not doing it's job or somethings wrong with the car. The only way I can get these results with another type of car (Super GT for example, and a maxed out Esprit for another) is to enter a corner way too fast, stomp the brakes to the floor, and turn as hard as possible. Only then does another car starts losing traction and sliding out of control in such a fashion.

Oversteer during acceleration is something I love. :sly: But in this case, it's sporadic and feels unnatural; often causing an instant 180 where any other car would only get a little sideways and let me straighten it up.

Turning in general is awful. Braking or accelerating; it feels like the car is going sideways at all times. Not bringing the rear end around, but "crabbing" or handling as if it's an all-wheel-steer lawnmower. (driven one of those, yes, that's what I mean.) As if when I turn right, the rear tires turn left slightly and the car pivots at the center rather than on the rear tires. Oversteer is only a multiplication of this effect. Rather than the rear sliding sideways, it feels like it's twisting the whole car. Braking too. The car wobbles when cornering all the time. It feels too touchy at first, then once it evens out, it doesn't turn anywhere near as sharp as it did at first. It'll lurch suddenly (DS3 somewhat to blame) and wobble back and forth through the corner. As it does so, it phases in an out of breaking the front and rear tires lose. It's as if the whole thing is made of jello.

That's about it I think. As I said, the A.I. hates me. I leave them in the dust on any track except Daytona, but they constantly ram me and cause me to spin out. Never really had this problem with most other races. The first corner of High Speed Ring is where I'll pass them all because they go so much slower than I do. Then I can pull away slightly through the rest of the course. Problem is, they all smash the brakes near the end of that corner and engulf me in a huge cloud of smoke that only they can see through. Then, in an attempt to avoid colliding with each other from sudden braking; they all spread out and cover the entire track. Now, my best chance to pass them becomes a gauntlet of swerving cars. Ultimately, they all hold their ground and end up smashing me off the track into a horrific crash. Not once, but twice, this happened. I had to make up about 10 seconds only for them to do it again as I attempt to pass.

So, do I suck? What's wrong with my set-ups? And am I the victim of an artificial conspiracy?

Please help me drive this twitching sled of jello. :)

Also, is there any difference at all between the 2010 NASCARs and the new 2011 ones added in Spec 2?

Thanks in advance.
 
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Firstly- i dont think there is much difference between the 2010 and 2011 nascars.

With my setup i managed to get gold on all but the daytona.
Indy- no camber, 240 ish top speed, minimum downforce

Grand valley, high speed ring and laguna i used
Ride height- lowest
Camber-f/2.00 r/1.00
Everything else standard
Top speed-bout 210-220
Racing soft
Downforce on just over halfway on scale
The car i used was the 2010 ford one with 'we've got you under our wing on the back

Daytona-same as indy could only get 6th but won championship

Hope this helps
 
For Daytona it sounds like you might have ASM on, which will kill your speed round the turns. I'd also highly recommend putting your ride height all the way up (yes, up) on both ends for all tracks (ovals and road courses). This should help with some of your cornering issues on road courses, and will allow the car to turn easier on ovals. On road courses I like to be 1 gear higher than what I'd normally take a corner at, to avoid having the back end slide out as much.

The AI do have a habit of hitting and spinning the player when driving NASCAR, it's not just you.

I don't believe there's much difference between the 2010 and 2011 models, though some of the people I race with say that the 2011 cars feel looser (more oversteer). Their performance figures are the same as the 2010 cars. (BHP, torgue, aero).

EDIT: Try these LSD settings for road courses: 35 35 5
 
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This should help with some of your cornering issues on road courses, and will allow the car to turn easier on ovals.

I'll try this. (Cranking it all the way up) My biggest issue with actually winning is not being able to hold me speed through the corners at Daytona.

On road courses I like to be 1 gear higher than what I'd normally take a corner at, to avoid having the back end slide out as much.

I do this too. It doesn't seem to have much of an effect with these cars though. Once I lose even the slightest bit of traction, the rear breaks lose. With only 4 gears, the differences are wide but staying in second instead of 1st only helps a little. I lose acceleration acceleration though.

I'm pretty sure I don't have ASM on. Though I heard people complaining about it being stuck on for the special events. I can't change most of the options either so it might be on without me knowing... If so, any workaround?

Thanks so far guys. I'll be trying this when I play later.
 
Setting ABS to zero apparently makes ASM have no effect, but I don't know if you can turn that off since you said some of the options can't be changed. For road courses I'd leave ABS on 1, since I know it's hard to drive well without ABS on a DS3.

My LSD settings should help a little bit with the car breaking loose on acceleration, though it'll still do it fairly easily.

As for losing acceleration on corner exit due to taking a corner 1 gear higher than normal, once you are able to accelerate in a near straight line, shift back down so you can still use the acceleration of the lower gear. A little bit of throttle modulation should allow you to shift back down sooner than that without spinning, but it's a decent starting point.

The weight of the cars means that they'll lock wheels sometimes if you're braking while turning, so try and brake mostly in a straight line.
 
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Setting ABS to zero apparently makes ASM have no effect, but I don't know if you can turn that off since you said some of the options can't be changed.

My LSD settings should help a little bit with the car breaking loose on acceleration, though it'll still do it fairly easily.

As for losing acceleration on corner exit due to taking a corner 1 gear higher than normal, once you are able to accelerate in a near straight line, shift back down so you can still use the acceleration of the lower gear. A little bit of throttle modulation should allow you to shift back down sooner than that without spinning, but it's a decent starting point.

Oh thank you and everything good. ABS is one of the options I can change, no need for it on an Oval. :dopey:

Breaking lose, as I said, is fun for me. Personally I'd rather just be careful with acceleration for this car, than my usual habit of taking a higher gear. The problems stem from the wobbling and all that. Hopefully the other tips will help fix that. Maybe it's just so much torque...
 
I just copy and pasted so I take no credit... I used this to platinum the game it it worked amazingly

Howdy folks,

I've tried many configs for the B-Spec NASCAR championship that I found online, and there was always something wrong with them. So I mashed them all together, and made a few custom tweaks to make what I consider fully functional setups for each of the championship races. I'm posting them in the hopes that they help someone out who's stuck.

For inquiring minds, Here's what I used:

Car: Toyota 2010 Joey Logano #20 GameStop CAMRY (Fantasy) Stats: 892HP/9000rpm - 1565kg - FR

Driver LVL 20 Personality: 50% (Neutral) Braking: 53% Cornering: 56% Accuracy: 67% Overall Speed: 57% Strength: 69% Mental S: 51%

==================== Race 1: Indy Credit: Sirtokealot / DEADLIST ==================== Downforce: 45/45

Transmission: 400 km/h (242 MPH)

LSD: 50/50/15

Ride Height: -30/-30 Spring Rate: 18.5/18.5 Dampers (Extension): 8/8 Dampers (Compression): 8/8 Anti-Roll: 6/7 Camber: 2/1 Toe: -0.15/0.00

Brakes: 1/0

Strategy: Mash "Speed Up" and you'll win easy. 100% speed the whole time.

==================== Race 2: Grand Valley Speedway Credit: Sirtokealot / DEADLIST / n4bcake ==================== Downforce: 50/70

Transmission: 320 km/h (193 MPH)

LSD: 20/40/20

Ride Height: -15/-15 Spring Rate: 15/14 Dampers (Extension): 8/7 Dampers (Compression): 7/6 Anti-Roll: 6/7 Camber: 2/1 Toe: -0.15/0.00

Brakes: 2/1

WARNING: Don't push for the whole race. Your tires won't last if you do.

Strategy: Push your way into 1st place using "Pace Up" and "Overtake", and make sure to "Pace Down" to around 90% whenever you're around the 'S' turns so that your driver doesn't burn his tires too much by whipping the tail out. Getting past the 1st and 2nd place drivers is usually the tricky part. If you're having trouble, get right up to their bumper and tell your driver to "Pace Down" in order to cool off. As long as you're close to the other driver, they'll get heated & make a mistake soon enough. Once you spot an opening, or reach the main straight, "Pace Up" to blitz past. After 3 or 4 laps you should have the lead. Once you're there, just hold your driver's speed around 60% and he should pull ahead of the pack easily without wearing out his tires.

==================== Race 3: High Speed Ring Credit: Sirtokealot / DEADLIST / n4bcake ==================== Downforce: 40/60

Transmission: 340 km/h (211 MPH)

LSD: 20/40/20

Ride Height: -15/-15 Spring Rate: 18.5/18.5 Dampers (Extension): 9/10 Dampers (Compression): 4/4 Anti-Roll: 6/7 Camber: 2/1 Toe: -0.15/0.00

Brakes: 2/1

Strategy: Use the Grand Valley leading technique again. "Pace Up" into 1st, then cruise. The only section you need to be careful at while pushing for the lead is the 'S' curve. Your driver may spin out if he's too worked up. "Pace Down" to cool him off before you get there, and you shouldn't have any trouble. Once you're in the lead, cruise at 60% till the end. If your driver is good enough, maybe even push him to 75% since the gentle turns of the High Speed Ring leave plenty of room for error.

==================== Race 4: Laguna Seca Raceway Credit: Sirtokealot / DEADLIST ==================== Downforce: 45/45

Transmission: 280 km/h (174 MPH)

LSD: 20/40/20

Ride Height: -30/-30 Spring Rate: 15/15 Dampers (Extension): 8/8 Dampers (Compression): 8/8 Anti-Roll: 6/7 Camber: 2/1 Toe: -0.15/0.00

Brakes: 1/0

Strategy: Just like Grand Valley, push your way to the fron of the pack, then cruise at about 60% to the end of the race. No worries about tires or spinning out on Laguna Seca, so select your "Overtake" commands just before your driver turns on to a straight.

==================== Race 5: Superspeedway - Daytona Credit: Sirtokealot / DEADLIST / kebs03m3 ==================== Downforce: 40/60

Transmission: 380 km/h (236 MPH)

LSD: 60/60/15

Ride Height: 0/-15 Spring Rate: 18.5/19 Dampers (Extension): 9/10 Dampers (Compression): 4/4 Anti-Roll: 6/7 Camber: 3.5/2.5 Toe: -0.15/0.00

Brakes: 2/1

WARNING: This is the most difficult of the NASCAR races to win. The AI will constantly use your slipstream to pass you. This setup should allow you to keep more speed through the corners, which should create a big enough gap between your driver and the AI that they will no longer be able to draft off of you.

Strategy: "Pace Up" until 1st place, then "Maintain Pace" to the end. You may fall back into the pack once or twice. Just keep speeding up until you're back in the lead. Your driver should overtake without you having to tell him. If your driver is good enough, he'll manage to get out of drafting range, and the pack will fall behind. (I was in the lead for 16 laps and won by about 6 seconds) Also, You may not be able to win this race during the championship, since your car will lose around 40HP from the 4 previous races. If you lose this race, don't worry. Just get the oil changed & come back to get the gold.

I hope those setups help!
 
Spots Joes' comments .... :interesting:

I've said this stuff before a long time ago Knelly. :sly: There was a little bit of setup sharing between various people back in the SCANA days (everyone ended up using my LSD settings after they tried them). I'm still using my original road course setup from way back then, and it's not let me down yet. (originally only for High Speed Ring, but it works on all other road courses) 👍

In Gran Turismo you must use maximum downforce all the time, forever, without end. It's not modeled correctly and has no drawbacks.

Using a Formula Gran Turismo at Spa as an example, with minimum aero you reach a higher top speed on the straights due to less drag, but you have less grip in the corners, as the car will understeer into the corner and oversteer coming out. With maximum aero, you hit a lower top speed, but can corner easier.

For NASCAR you want minimum or close to minimum downforce on ovals. (depending on your setup)
 
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Thanks Piff for that. And thanks to the person who originally posted it as well. :)

In Gran Turismo you must use maximum downforce all the time, forever, without end. It's not modeled correctly and has no drawbacks.

Uh, no. lol Pretty much what Drifter Joe said to you; downforce causes your car to become "heavier" as you gain speed. (Down? Force? See the pattern here?) Which makes it harder for your car to be pushed along. This is one of the reasons why the Veyron is one of the fastest in a straight line, because it has no downforce.

Thanks to all who've helped. I've now gotten gold on all the NASCAR events (A, and B spec) and have mostly worked out my handling issues.

I shall elaborate in hopes that the findings might help someone else.

Indy: Easy.
Grand Valley, High Speed Ring, Laguna Seca: More technical, but the AI is bad on these courses so it's not too hard.
Daytona: Still a big pain.

What I found. As Joe said earlier, ASM is holding you back. It's one of the options you can't change... BUT! If you turn off ABS, ASM will turn off as well. The problem; at Indy and Daytona, you are not allowed to turn ABS all the way off, and thus ASM will always be on as well. The thing is, I tried Daytona as a single race, when you play it during the championship, you have the option to turn it off. (Which cleared up almost all of my problems) It's not really needed to turn it off on Indy, but it saved the day at Daytona. My strategy was to just plow along as fast as I could, now able to corner at 205+ MPH. The AI kept drafting me and rear-ending my car as I entered the corners, this gave me a boost and caused them to slow down a bit more. It almost wrecked me on multiple occasions (jerks) but I managed to hold it together and emerge victorious.

As for what I said earlier about the car wobbling and feeling like jello, this has been solved. Wanna guess? ASM. Yup, with ASM turned on at the first race (Indy) it becomes set on at each of the other races, but now you can turn it off. I didn't know it was still on at all until you guys brought it to my attention. Once I turned it off, all the problems cleared up. The car still handles poorly, and attempts massive oversteer upon acceleration, but now it feels right. I'm now in direct control and have a much better feel on the car since it only does what I tell it to, rather than have an "assist" changing things. (Quotes on "assist" to indicate irony, it's a complete hindrance and provided no assistance in anything but wrecking the car.)

B-spec was easy. I simply used my current set ups (with suspension and LSD adjustments provided by Joe) and hammered on the "Overtake" button until he achieved 1st place, then I kept hitting "Pace up" until the race was won. He got 6th at Daytona during the championship, but had already gotten gold beforehand while I was testing.

My speedy set up was used for Indy, High Speed Ring, and Daytona. My technical set up was used for Grand Valley and Laguna Seca.

In conclusion: ASM screwed everything up entirely. Turn it off the second you get the chance. This is the only event that I know of with this brainless restriction, and it suffers for it.

So I am now in possession of a Pontiac Tempest Lemans GTO and a Mercury Cougar XR7 for winning A Spec and B Spec. Awesome, that doesn't make much sense and I already had both. :)
 
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