FAQ: The lazy man's guide to GT4 drifting!

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What gives?
Out of sheer boredom (and a tiny bit of compassion, maybe) I thought I'd try to put together a FAQ/Troubleshooting guide for the less technically inclined/interested among us.. this is solely meant as a guide to GT4 as it appears to me, and should not be scrutinized with real life in mind...at all.

What started as a quick and dirty troubleshooter seems to keep growing in size.. who knows where it'll end up, but I'll try to keep it simple. Anyway, the goal of this thread is to provide an easy to understand quick guide to help you understand how things work... so I guess my first goal is to compress what I've already written. Consider this work in progress...

Oh, and feel free to post questions or corrections below or in a PM so I can make this guide better

Ask Dr. Ske: General FAQ/Troubleshooting

What seems to be the problem today?

The car is understeery off power, but oversteers easily on power
- Tighten front springs and/or lower rear springs

The car oversteers off power (liftoff) but understeers on power
- Soften front springs and/or tighten rear springs

Rear end seems to slide/spin out of control
- Tighten rear stabilizer

Front end is soggy and slow to respond
- Tighten front stabilizer

The whole car seems jerky and snappy with poor response
- Set custom LSD values to 10/25/10.. then adjust the initial value up until it feels tight enough.

Car just seems to go wide in every corner, hard to control
- Use softer tires

Car doesn't drift wide enough
- Use harder tires

Rear wheels dig in easily and there's major understeer on throttle release
- Add rear ballast

Car spins easily off power and is hard to power over
- Add front ballast

Tuning: Getting your hands dirty

Which parts to buy?

Exhaust:
A cheap and easy way to increase power and change the noise of your car. Note that on some cars, the exhaust system seems to have a profound effect on the engine response through the powerband. This can be positive (as on the Camaro Z28) or negative (BMW M5)... so, if your car seems to "choke" on lower revs, try changing this part.

Brakes:
As the racing brakes don't seem to have an effect on a drifting car, it's rather a pointless upgrade. Get the balance controller, though.

Engine:
I always buy a chip, engine balancing and port polish. The rest of the bits are up to your power needs.. but keep an eye on the power band as you increase the tuning level.

Drivetrain:
Buy everything from this lot.

Turbo:
Again it's just up to your power needs, but keep your shirt on and watch the powerband when you apply them.

Suspension:
Unless you're really really fond of the stock suspension, get the racing or original one. The original (when available) should be fine unless you want to really fiddle with dampers (if you're reading this, you probably won't)

Tires:
Get all N-type tires. They're free

Other:
Weight reduction is good, so is chassis refresh on used cars. You might wanna invest in a VCD controller for your AWD car, but chassis stiffening can be both good and bad. Get this at your own discretion, or just stay away from it.

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Power

Powerband:
Often overlooked, but very much a factor in how nice a car is to drift. Check the graph in the top right corner of your setup screen. The green line represents torque, and you want that curve to be high and smooth all the way across (at least the right half of the graph). This makes it easier to start wheelspin from low revs and in tight spots/low angles. Cars that have steep powerbands with narrow torque peaks may be very hard to drift consistently.

Horsepower:
You want enough power to get wheelspin when you're sideways, but not so much that you can't balance your throttle around the grip limit.

Gear ratios:
More important than you might think. If you drop out of the effective powerband, or if you redline during a drift, you might lose wheelspin and end up with snap understeer. Make sure you set up your gears so that you stay within the good range of the powerband, at least in the tricky corners. Autoset should work most times, but don't be afraid to adjust certain gears if you're close to getting it right.

Power delivery:
The way the power is delivered onto the road varies from car to car, and dictates how much power is effective. Small displacement turbo cars, like Silvias, have a very abrupt power delivery and tend to "dig" or just burn out easily. This means less power or grippier tires may be needed. Cars with big engines often have a "lazier" and smoother delivery, making high power desireable.

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LSD

1-way:
A "safe" LSD for road cars. On throttle release, the LSD unlocks like an open diff. Best for FWD cars as it allows the front wheels to roll freely when you let go. (equal to 20/40/5)

1.5-way:
Locks harder under acceleration than deceleration. It should "settle" a bit on release, but not open completely. (20/40/20)

2-way:
Locks in the same way regardless of whether you're accelerating or decelerating. Consistent under erratic throttle input, it should let the wheels spin all the way through a corner. This is also my favorite type, since "it just works"...mostly (20/40/40)

Full custom:
Torque-sensitive and adjustable in strength, this gives you full control over how the LSD behaves.
- Initial torque: LSD response time and overall strength.
- LSD Acceleration: The strength of the lock when you're on the throttle
- LSD Deceleration: The strength of the lock when you're off the throttle
- Values in between apply, so a 20/40/30 will be 1.75 way, duh...

In-game consideration:
I've noticed that some cars become easier to control with low acceleration values (less lock). This most often applies to big engine cars that become hard to control on power. If the cars seem jerky or clumsy with a tight LSD, I generally default to a 10/25/10 setup and tune from there. Use the inital torque slider to adjust how quickly and how abruptly the LSD should lock.

In general, lower values means the car will be easier to turn using countersteer, higher values makes them easier to turn using throttle/brake.

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Suspension

Spring rate:
A drift suspension setup will usually be a bit softer than a racing setup. For the average 1200kg drift car, a front value of 7-9 kgt/mm will be comfortable.
- Stiffer rear rates will make it harder to break traction on release, but easier to power over.
- Softer rear rates will make it easier to break traction on release, but harder to power over.

Ride height:
If you lose control momentarily over bumps, or if you see a lot of sparks when you're not hitting curbs, you're bottoming out. Raise your ride height or stiffen your springs. I recommend raising the height.
- A taller rear will generally make the car slightly more oversteery.

Damper/Shock absorber:
Dampers try to keep the suspension in check and limit movement. Lower values means better absorption but slow response and wobbliness, higher values means better response at the cost of skipping and a generally crashy ride. Bound and rebound rates are black magic, so don't go there unless you know what's up. (aka: to be updated)
- Values between 5 and 6 seem to be good allrounders for 1200kg cars.

Camber angle:
The vertical angle of the wheels relative to the track. Lets the outside wheels be more at a right angle to the track under heavy cornering, so the less the car rolls, the less camber you need. In theory, higher settings will offer more grip while cornering...but it's more of a fine-tuning thing.

Toe angle:
Don't even go there. The effect is not very pronounced at all, and it should probably be the last thing you try.
- Negative values should mean toe-out, which in turn should make that end more responsive to turning (looser).
- Positive values should make that end more stable (tighter).

Stabiliser:
Controls how independently the left and right wheels move with the suspension. A tight stabilizer will "lock" the right and left suspension together. The effect from tuning the stabilizer is quite strong, and it can feel similar to LSD tuning.
- Higher values mean tightness and stability (duh), lower values mean response and lightness.
- Loosen the front for lighter and quicker steering, tighten it for a crisper and tighter feel.
- Loosen the rear for lightness, tighten it if your car seems unstable when drifting.

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Other settings

Tire compounds:
N1 - Good for cruising long distances at high angle, but demands a finely tuned right foot.
N2 - the default drifter's weapon of choice, and it's a fine one at that. It gives a good compromise between control and slideability.
N3 - for speed drifting, and for very wild cars. Gives more traction out of tight corners.
S* - they're just, well, wrong really...
R* - you're clearly in the wrong forum.

Tire stagger:
Staggering tires (using different compounds on the front and rear) is an effective way of making a car very loose at the cost of predictability and stability, but it's heavily frowned upon as an easy way out. Due to GT4's "unique" tire physics, most AWDs need 1 level of stagger to drift properly. If you feel you need 2 levels (N3/N1), then it just wasn't meant to happen.

Brake balance:
Higher values mean stronger braking force, which again means it's easier to overload the tires on that end. A typical drift setup is 2-3 in the front, 8-12 in the rear for more angle control when braking. Combine this with high LSD decel/2-way for added effect.

Driving aids:
...do you want your car to drive you, or do you want to drive the car? Turn it off. Off! OFF!

AYC control:
Basically a driving aid in disguise. Not recommended as it makes the car (the Evo) unpredictable as the computer tries to decide which direction it wants to point you.

VCD:
Controls the amount of torque sent to the front wheels in an AWD car. Use this to balance the car for zero-countersteer drifts.

Weight balance:
This setting really has a pronounced effect. In 95% of cases, you'll use this to add weight to the rear of the car (+50 on the balance slider). What this does is turn your car into a pendulum, giving the rear end more momentum to swing around when you change direction. It also has an opposite effect when you hit the throttle, increasing the traction of the rear wheels. It's a very effective way of changing the on/off throttle balance of your car, but some consider it borderline cheating.

Car choices: The good, the bad and the downright nasty!

Here is a listing of some good beginner car choices and recommended setup values. All use 2-way LSD unless stated. The reason these cars are recommended is because they require a minimal amount of tuning.

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Rear wheel drive

Nissan Silvia K's/Spec R (J)
(Includes 270R, Sileighty and 180/200/240SX)
The S15 seems to deliver its power more smoothly, but apart from that the older models are good, generic drift machines too. The Silvias require quite a light touch, especially on entry, as they can understeer and burn out easily... so they make for excellent practice cars.
This is to me the obvious first choice because of popularity among drifters, light weight, very torquey engine and lively response. They look good too! The downside is the abruptness of the drivetrain, and the tendency to understeer when pushed. Remember to get the turbo versions (K's or Spec R)
- Power: 250-300 HP
- Tires: N2
- Suspension: Equal front/rear, spring rates around 6-8

Mazda RX-7 (J)
Both the FC and FD series are great and popular cars for GT4 drifting. The main things you notice are instant oversteer and super smooth power delivery. The only downside is a lack of torque in the early FD models, but this can be overcome by bolting on some engine upgrades. The late FC and early FD models are the most oversteery. Stay away from newer models (2000+), as they're a lot less oversteery than the older models.
- Power: 250-300 HP (FC), 300-350 HP (FD)
- Tires: N1-N3
- Suspension: Equal front/rear, spring rates around 6-8

Holden Monaro (AUS)
This car, unlike it's spawn (the new GTO), is an excellent stock drifter. It has plenty of oomph, but awkward gear ratios beg for a custom gearbox. Not much to be said but enjoy!
- Power: Stock, or just the basic upgrades
- Tires: N1, N2
- Suspension: Stock, or default settings
- LSD: Stock

Amuse S2000 (Tuner)
Includes the street and R1 versions. Just slap some slippery tires on and go! Unlike the original S2000 from Honda, these cars have a responsive engine, and with sports suspension already installed they're good to go! Very responsive steering and good full throttle drifters, these were the cars I learned to drift with.
- Power: Stock-300 HP
- Tires: N1, N2
- Suspension: Stock
- LSD: Stock

Renault Clio V6 (F)
This is a nippy little car, it'll slide effortlessly when you lift the throttle. With a tiny power upgrade it'll gladly keep going when you step on it as well. Because of it's MR layout, this car will go sideways the instant you lift your right foot, so it's a good way of learning to be quick on the countersteer.
- Power: Up to 300 HP
- Tires: N1
- Suspension: Stock, or slightly stiffer in the rear. Spring rates around 7-9
- LSD: Stock

BMW 330i (D)
One of the smoothest handling machines in the game, this car suffers a bit from low torque. It has a super wide powerband though. The feel of it is quite similar to the late 90s RX-7s, but it's a bit more grippy. It's also a heavy car, probably the best heavy car for learners.
- Power: 280-330 HP
- Tires: N1
- Suspension: Spring rates around 7-9, slightly stiffer up front
- LSD: Custom, loose (10/25/10)

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All wheel drive

Subaru Impreza STi (J) (up to version VI)
One of three recommended cars for learning AWD drifting (Zero counter). The tightest of the bunch, but it can still perform!
- Power: 450-500 HP
- Tires: N2 front, N1 rear
- Suspension: Spring rates around 10-12, equal front/rear
- LSD: 10/40/5 front, 10/40/20 rear.
- VCD: 30-50

Nissan Skyline GT-R V-spec (J)
The R34 is a good car to start your AWD career with. Excellent on tight courses. Do not countersteer in drift.
- Power: Stock-400 HP
- Tires: N1
- LSD: Stock
- VCD: Stock/do not equip

Ford RS200 road car (US)
This is perhaps the easiest and most fun general purpose AWD drifter. It does both tight and stretched corners well.
(Ahem, this car is British)
- Power: Maxed
- Tires N2 front, N1 rear
- Suspension: Spring rates around 6-10, equal front/rear
- VCD: 30-50

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Tempting cars you should avoid for now (If you'd listen to me anyway)

Pontiac GTO: Understeer city, and nowhere near it's daddy the great Holden Monaro.
Mazda RX-7 Bathurst/Spirit A: They're almost good...only they're not
Mitsubishi Lancer Evo 8: Tighter than.. something very tight indeed
Ford Mustang GT: You're starting to see a pattern here, don't you? Understeeriest car in the game, possibly. You might be able to power over this thing, but only for about 0.2 seconds until you're out of the powerband...
Lexus SC300 (Soarer): Needs a bit of practice and tuning. Weird power delivery.
Toyota Sprinter Trueno SS version: Understeer, and the worst gearbox I've come across..




To be updated....

Technique: Making it work (Rear wheel drive)

Now it gets tricky. Most of your problems aren't because of tuning, but technique. With improved technique comes better tuning skills, as you begin to understand how the car reacts to your inputs. I'm writing this guide for a wheel setup, but it should also apply to DS2 drifting since you have the same range of inputs there. The only thing stick drifters are missing out on is force feedback.

You might notice that I don't mention the e-brake once in this guide... Get the hint? This is in my eyes an emergency tool only. In RWD drifting, the only time you might want to use the e-brake is when something doesn't go as planned, or if you need to slide very very far...

The entry is where I had most of my problems to begin with, but most wheel users seem to have an easier time with this. I'll list a few common issues that need to be understood in order to enter consistently. When you're comfortable with entering, you can start experimenting with higher speeds, sliding entries and more intricate pedal work. One very good tip to remember when entering is to NOT leave the wheel turning into the turn. After you've turned in, quickly center the wheel and wait for the rear to slip.

Don't worry about the different techniques for now, it's time for....

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Your first drift

The setup:
- Take your favorite beginner's FR car (look above for suggestions) to Autumn Ring, and select photo drive.
- Keep your eye on that first right hairpin, you'll be drifting that in a moment.
- Do a few grip runs to find a suitable turn-in point and speed. Use the outside rumble strip as a landmark.
- Remember that it's impossible to remember all of this the first times you try, so take one bit at a time.

The entry:
- Don't enter too fast. Start off by entering at about the same speed and point as if you were grip driving.
- Set up a slight feint by steering away from the turn as you approach it.
- First brake, THEN turn in quickly as you let go of the brakes... don't do both at the same time, even though the pros do it.
- As soon as the rear wheels start to slip, stab the throttle quickly and begin countersteer.
- Keep repeating these steps until you can make the car oversteer every time. You're now ready to drift.

The drift:
- After the initial stab of the throttle, release to about half throttle and keep it there.
- Find out how much countersteer you must apply to keep the car from turning around on it self immediately. You can now "catch" the drift.
- After catching it, nudge the wheel SLIGHTLY into the turn to make the car follow the corner. You should still be at half throttle.
- Now it's robot mode: off, and time to feel/react.
- If you're turning too tighly, lighten the throttle and increase countersteer quickly.
- If you're drifting too wide and heading for the sandbank, nudge the wheel inward.
- Keep balancing like this until you're past the apex.

The exit:
- Once you're past the apex, it's time to head towards the outside rumble strip on the other side.
- Increase throttle and countersteer to drift outwards. You should not need to brake from now on.
- Gradually reduce countersteer again to line your car up with the rumble strip. You should be picking up speed/revs at this point.
- Keep feathering the throttle while adjusting your line with steering. Only decrease the throttle if you're about to fly off the track.
- Turn slightly outwards then center the wheel when you're close to the rumble strip.
- When you're close to straight, either shift up if you're at high revs (you should be) or let off the throttle to let the rear grip again.
- Drive off like nothing happened

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Entry techniques

Feint:
- The easiest way to start oversteering in GT4.
- Approach the turn close to the middle of the track, and slightly faster than if you were gripping.
- Steer away from the turn, then release the pedals and jerk the car towards the turn quickly.
- You should be oversteering at this point as the car is turned into a giant pendulum.
- Stab the throttle, countersteer and off you go.
- This is a basic, versatile technique that will work in most places.

Power over:
- You need a bit of torque to do this.
- Approach the turn as if you were gripping.
- Floor the throttle as you turn in until the rear wheels start coming loose.
- Countersteer and feather the throttle to keep drifting.
- This technique is well used for tight tracks where you don't have room for feinting, or if you come in too slowly to brake drift.

Braking:
- This technique does not work on all cars.
- Approach the turn a bit faster than normal.
- Release the throttle and brake slightly to dip the nose down a bit.
- Turn in quickly and feather the brakes when you start to turn.
- Countersteer while feathering the brakes to increase your angle.
- When you have scrubbed off enough speed and you have enough angle, stab the throttle and go!
- Use braking drift for high speed, sliding entries.

Lift-off:
- Only works on naturally oversteery and rear-heavy cars.
- Approach the turn, release the pedals and turn in hard.
- You should now start to slide, so countersteer and hit the throttle.
- Lift-off drift looks very smooth, but it's not very easy to do in GT4.

Shiftlock:
- Approach the turn at good speed and medium revs (make sure you're in a good gear for that).
- Release the pedals and turn in
- When you begin to turn, shift down quickly and countersteer.
- Feather the throttle and drift. The torque surge from instantly increasing your revs should overload the rear wheels.
- Works well with underpowered/stock cars, but needs the right gear ratios to work.
- If you redline when downshifting, use the brakes instead.

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Drifting

Basics:
- This bit is tricky, since it relies on feel and experience.
- Feel, because you want to react before the car does...
- Experience, because you need to predict what the car will do in order to compensate for it.
- Don't overcook the throttle. You want to be just barely spinning the wheels, burning rubber will not move you forward.
- Don't overdo your angle. Since your rear wheels are pushing you forwards, you want them behind you (to put it simple).

Balancing:
- Once you're oversteering, stab the throttle quickly to get the wheels spinning and wind up the engine (there's no clutch, see).
- Feathering the brakes mid-drift is perfect for lowering your speed, increasing your angle and tightening your line at the same time.
- If your revs drop too low, you can't force wheelspin with throttle, and if you redline, most engines become pretty powerless.
- Lift-off will make the rear end light and easier to slide (for a moment). More throttle will push you towards the apex.
- Countersteer less to drift tighter, more to go wider.
- For a normal corner, go wide-tight-wide. More on that later.

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Exiting

Straight exit:
- When exiting you want to increase your speed, drift outwards and straighten your car.
- Gradually increase the throttle, and balance your angle with steering to drift outwards.
- Limit your angle so you exit parallel to the track.
- When you have the exit spotted and in reach, increase throttle then reduce countersteer to straighten out.
- Use your wheel to adjust your exit, but make sure you're able to center the wheel in time.
- Once your car is lined up and the wheel is centered, shift up or lower the throttle to stop wheelspin.

Linking:
- Repeat the first 3 steps for normal exits.
- When you spot the normal exit point, keep feathering the throttle and countersteer to extend your drift past the normal exit point.
- Point your front wheels towards the next turn-in point and keep pumping the throttle to maintain some angle.
- Once it's time to enter the opposite turn, release the throttle and increase countersteer quickly.
- Your car should whip around at this point. Pump/feather the brakes a couple of times if it whips to hard.
- Catch the opposite drift as if you had just performed an aggressive feint entry.

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Line suggestions

Single Apex, less than 90 degrees:
- Enter early (as you would normally) and with low angle.
- You can increase your angle momentarily at the apex, but reduce it again to maintain speed and line to the exit.

Single Apex, 90 degrees or more:
- Out-in-out should work in most cases. Use the same apex as if you were gripping.
- If you want to link the next turn, changing your apex will also change your exit point.
- Apex early to exit short and wide.
- Apex late to exit further away. Extending a drift like this requires better balancing.

Symmetrical dual apex:
- Example: Seattle turns 1+2, Motegi Road Course turns 1+2
- Treat these as one wide turn, try to hit both apexes in one smooth arc.

Tightening dual apex:
- Example: Apricot Hill turns 1+2, Grand Valley East reverse turns 1+2.
- High speed braking or shift/lift entries lets you enter at a shallow angle and with enough speed.
- As long as you enter with enough speed, they can usually be "salvaged" even with a sloppy entry.
- Take the outside line through the first apex, and keep your angle lower than usual.
- As you hit the normal entry point for the second apex, hit the brakes to increase your angle and tighten your drift.
- When you're close to the second apex, get on the throttle and exit normally.

Widening dual apex:
- Example: Autumn Ring Mini reverse turns 1+2, Midfield turns 1+2.
- These can be tricky, so they demand focus and a perfect entry.
- I strongly suggest using power over, or a combination of feint/lift and power over.
- Approach the first apex at normal speed, turn in early.
- Clip the first apex really tight and with low angle. Start powering over here.
- Start the normal exit procedure and try and bring as much speed as you can to the outside.
- When you're close to straightening out in the middle of the apexes, turn in and power over again to point your nose towards the second apex.
- You should hopefully be able to clear the second apex wide. Aim for a clean, wide exit, don't focus on hitting the second apex.



... To be updated

Four to the floor: AWD drifting

Big rally fan? Wanna slide them Evos like Mäkinen? Be an ID bad guy? Or are you after the long tight links that seem impossible with an FR? Maybe it's time you checked out the wacky world of AWD drifting...

I generally don't recommend starting out with AWD. Drifting, as in the sport, is pretty much restricted to rear-wheel drive cars...but zero counter four-wheel drifting has a charm all of it's own. You'll be able to do stunts and tricks you can't do in RWDs, and you'll be able to drift longer and narrower. With the right balance, you can also hold insanely high angles and recover relatively gracefully.

Do not hope to drift an AWD car like you would an FR. AWD drifting is all about zero countersteer and smooth lines. For the smoothest line, get the entry right and stay on the power throughout the turn (use your left foot to brake if you can).

The entry is usually a lot more critical when drifing AWD...this is because you won't be countersteering to guide your car, and because you'll basically be power over drifting through the whole corner... so give it a few tries to find out how and where you should enter a turn compared to RWD drifting. If you get the entry wrong, you'll end up countersteering a lot (AWD countersteering is not very graceful) and changing angle a lot during the drift.

So how do I prepare?
Get an AWD car, duh. I recommend trying out the R34 V-spec on N1's just to get a feel of it. Keep everything stock, just turn off the aids for now.

If you really want a powerful car, use the RS200 if you have it, or get a '99 Impreza STi version VI from the used car lot (they're always there). Set it up with default values all around, N2s in the front and N1s in the rear. Buff the power up to around 450 HP. We might as well start with the same corner as above, turn 1 at Autumn Ring.

The entry
This is normally the crucial bit when drifting AWD cars. Since you want to avoid countersteering in drift, the setup must be spot on. For this turn, it's pretty straight forward.
- Use feint, brake or lift-off to break the rear end loose.
- Turn in hard and immediately center the wheel.
- Once sliding, start feathering the throttle to catch the drift.

The drift
Note how the car changes direction when you reduce or increase the power. This is your way of "countersteering" in an AWD car.
- Full throttle should decrease/maintain your angle, while feathered throttle should increase it slightly.
- Feathering/tapping the brakes should tuck the nose of the car in a bit and shorten your line.
- Tapping the e-brake should increase your angle without tightening your line.
- Slight countersteer CAN be used to correct your line.
- Countersteer when OFF power to quickly increase your angle.
- Countersteer when ON power to decrease your angle.

The exit
After the apex, your line should be similar to a normal drift.
- Increase the throttle (and countersteer briefly if needed) to reduce angle and widen your line.
- Balance the car towards the rumble strip.
- Countersteer slightly to straighten the car out, or keep the wheel centered if you wanna keep drifting to link the next turn.

Thanks for that ske. Great basic way to understand about the physics of the game and the cars in it.

This is excellent Ske, it should definitally be stickied, and should be read by all.
👍

I'll keep my eye on this thread, seems pretty useful. 👍

Excellent quick reference quide for drifting. 👍

Nice thread. Excellent as a quick reference guide especially for new drifters like myself. Cant wait to buy my Silvia, it will be my first dedicated drift machine Im going to get a S14 K's i think.

Ske... your posts just get better and better:tup:

Great post, I agree with DK, should definately be stickied!

Keep it up


Naif

Nice update. Thanks Ske, you've outdone yourself.

Great work Ske, i hope it gets stickied and helps all the newbie drifters on GTP.

That's is one fantastic work from you, Ske!

It really short and sweet, yet detailed enough for beginners like me. Can't do more than appreciate your work here pal. Still got a long way to learn from you too.

Thanks a lot on this thread!

Clanegie.

Great Faq Ske, lots of great info. I can see this is going to be very useful to a lot of people. 👍

Who's the man?! Ske's the man!

nice one ske, i prefer the awd cars more than the FR or MR as i just seem to loose it more often in them. thanks for this guide

Perfect!

Thanks Ske! Nice one! ;D

this is truly the greatest drift guide ever ,great job 5 stars

Thanks ske, btw do you use a steering wheel?

Can I add my voice to those requesting that this guide gets sticky status?

I'm a dreadful drifter, but my competence just increased by approximately a billion per cent after reading that.

Thanks a lot Dr Ske, 10/10


EDIT: (see post below) Thanks Loon, sorry all for the irrelevant post

Instead of stickying this thread, a link to it has been put here in this thread, which is stickied.

I personally like to use RSH's. I have a lot of trouble getting out of drift's though. How do I get better at it.

Oh, and lifedoes look better sideways.