As most of you know after you drive a car for a while it will start losing a little bit of power. My question is does this stop at a certain point and is there any affects on the car other then hp loss and decrease in ridgidy that I'm not seeing? I'm asking because my favorite car the 95 Skyline n1 has about 40k miles on it and it hasn't lost any hp and i wan't to make sure its not losing anything else.
Power Loss Questions
- Thread starter Mrg 1200
- 18 comments
- 2,933 views
- 6,518
- Lincoln
- Speedster502
Thats also like when you buy certain parts it reduces your power out put it really annoys me. Sounds like we both want to know almost the same thing.
- 6,009
- Austin, Texas
- D-Nitrate / GTP_DNitrate
- 10,544
- Columbia, MD.
- Parnelli_Bones
If you don't change the oil and/or redline your engine a lot, it will eventually lose power permanently. But after a certain point it won't go down any further (power won't). So it's a good idea to take care of maintenance often.
Last edited:
- 10,544
- Columbia, MD.
- Parnelli_Bones
- 6,009
- Austin, Texas
- D-Nitrate / GTP_DNitrate
You aren't going to be doing an oil change for the sake of maintenance in the middle of a real race... unless you want to lose.
In addition, unlike GT3, in GT4 you can change your car's oil in between races during a championship series. 👍
- 10,544
- Columbia, MD.
- Parnelli_Bones
You aren't going to be doing an oil change for the sake of maintenance in the middle of a real race... unless you want to lose.
In addition, unlike GT3, in GT4 you can change your car's oil in between races during a championship series. 👍
Actually what I meant was--doing maintenance between races, not during the actual race. Sorry for the confusion.
And that absolutely ROCKS that we can leave the series and get some work done! 👍 I knew you could leave the series and go back to home page to save, but I didn't know you could fix your car up as well.
Last edited:
- 5,603
- England, Warwickshire
- GTP_Sigma
You mean when you are tuning it for: N/A,Turbo,Supercharger?
Thats because you can only equip one of them at one time, so you choose which one will be best for you, Turbo usually offers the most BHP but can suffer with torque at low RPM's while superchargers, and N/A tend to give you less power but a more reliable level of torque, so you choose your favorite!
Its for this reason, if you have a Turbo fitted and then you purchases N/A tune it tends to lower you BHP because it does away with the turbo and replaces it with a N/A tuning instead, same goes for the supercharger.
I hope this is what you meant, otherwise this will sound a little demeaning, and that is not my objective!
I know I was asking about other affects and if it stopped at some point.
AMG.
Staff Emeritus
- 3,116
- NL, Leiden
- GTP_AMG
You may also want to read up on this thread too.
Here's one of the posts in that thread.
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showpost.php?p=1910378&postcount=2
AMG.
- 6,518
- Lincoln
- Speedster502
Yeh thats pretty much what I mean. Apart form how does that explain the fact that sometimes when you buy a stage 5 turbo lets say, the stage 3 turbo lets say gives more power than the 5 which I don't understand at all.
Stage 5 aka origional is the best kit as it has the best powerband. It has very low turbo lag and just a little less power at higher speeds.
- 5,603
- England, Warwickshire
- GTP_Sigma
Off topic, but still its worth answering Just remember there is a thread with this stuff in it already but I will save you the time of reading through it.
With the stage turbo 1 it is small which means a small increase in BHP, (which you know) and the stage four is the biggest turbo hence the highest increase in BHP (which you also know. What you may not know is that the stage 5 isn't really stage five, its an original turbine kit and I will get back to this.
Now you may or may not know, with the small turbo it offers low power increase(bad) but has very little lag(good) (which means the turbo kicks in almost strait away when you hit the accelerator, so gives the BHP increase at low engine revs) which is good news this is good for tight tracks.
With your big stage 4 turbo it offers the most power increase(good) but has lots of lag(bad)(which means the turbo kicks in very late but when it does finally kick in at higher revs it will give a massive boost of BHP allowing you to have a higher potential top speed) this is good news for fast tracks with long straits.
Tracks good for small turbo:
Autumn Ring
Citta di Aria
Tsukuba
Deep Forest
Leguna Seca
Tracks good for big turbo:
Test track
High speed ring
Fuji (any era)
SuperSpeedway
Midfield
Now when you have a track, you decide how open or tight the track is and decide which turbo suits it (if in dought go for the bigger one its better in most cases thanks to the huge power output) so you choose 1-4 on which will suit the track best.
Now with the original turbine kit it allows you to have both(two turbo's i thinks one big one small). Instead of choosing between stage 1, 2, 3, and 4, it gives you the best of both worlds, the Low lag(good) of the Small turbo and the high power(good) of the big one (but not always as high power output as stage four). This is in essence the best turbo, good potential acceleration good potential top speed. So although it tends to have lower power output than stage four, I really wouldn't worry about it unless there is a big difference(as there is with a minority of cars). So you don't have to buy all turbo's, just buy the one, original turbo(stage 5). Even for fast tracks like Fuji the acceleration advantage the original Turbo gives will be better than the slightly higher power of stage 4 obsolete.
The only race i can think of where the slightly higher power will of stage 4 will be better suited than the overall standard of the original turbo, is the 'Like the Wind' Race in the expert hall, but for this you will be better off with a Group C race car or Le Mans Prototype car, and these cars don't have original Turbo's anyway only stage 4.
So there you have it, stick to original turbo's if your car can be tuned in the tuner village ignore stage 4 and all the other stage turbo's go for the Original turbine. However if you cannot tune your car in the tuner village like most cars, then follow the very simplified guide, about which turbo is the best for which track.
Note; not all people agree that the original turbo is the best one to go for, and prefer the Big stage 4, its just my opinion but one which works well for me.
Also a lot of these are assumptions, or have been simplified to make them easier to understand, but I would imagine they are fairly accurate.
TuneRVisioN
(Banned)
- 1,196
I don't think that's true. In GT3, the oil light came on at 186 Miles every time, either redlining or not. I did this in the 2 Hour Rome Endurance race in a Renault Clio V6 Sport. Then did it again in another Clio. Redlining has no effect in GT3. I don't know about GT4, but I redline all the time, and oil depletion rate doesn't seem to change, but I can't confirm this. 
- 635
- Grabsplatter
I don't think that's true. In GT3, the oil light came on at 186 Miles every time, either redlining or not. I did this in the 2 Hour Rome Endurance race in a Renault Clio V6 Sport. Then did it again in another Clio. Redlining has no effect in GT3. I don't know about GT4, but I redline all the time, and oil depletion rate doesn't seem to change, but I can't confirm this.
Redlining does have an effect in GT4 - I know this from wearing out various cars to increase a-spec points. New cars are taken to the test track and run in b-spec mode for about 9000 miles. If the cars are not running in the red line the power loss will be (significantly) less than if they are.
