A few useful tips about GT4...

T

TuneRVisioN

(Banned)
1,196
Drivetrains​

FF - Front Engined, Front Wheel Drive Layout:​
This drivetrain is known for creating massive amounts of understeer. However, there is a way to solve it. (Later half of this paragraph would explain...) FF cars are NOT a good drivetrain when it comes to acceleration while turning, as that leads to a level beyond understeer, NO STEER. (Especially if you are burning out your front tires.) Understeer can be solved by easing off the gas while turning, also using light throttle while turning can let you have more turning without loosing too much speed while cornering. It does, however accelerate reverse with much more grip than most other drivetrains, and can sometimes beat some 4WD cars in reversing. It is also the best for braking while turning. Is this drivetrain good for endurance races? NO! It will constantly burn the front tires, while the rear tires are only green, the front are RED. FF cars need some fine tuning, like say fast FF cars that tend to spin the inside wheel. Installing a LSD can benifit FF's pretty well, except a little more understeer at times. Also these FF cars needs you to the most time fine tuning it to get it right. It would turn better, grip better, but still not be as good as most FR cars are. Cars like the Nissan EXA can actually turn great fully modded, with only 225HP fully modded, it only burns out in the first gear here, and it picks up speed kind of fast for a 225HP car. It actually oversteers at times. I will post settings when I have time for the EXA.

From eg6_dude: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showpost.php?p=2652846&postcount=1 That is a great guide for how to make a good FF car.

FR - Front Engined, Rear Wheel Drive Layout:​
The most balanced RWD drivetrain. It doesn't annoy you as much when you try to push it, unlike MR or RR cars. It is known for helping you have a more even weight distribution for the front half and rear half of the car. It has so-so grip while accelerating, but it corners much better than FF cars. This drivetrain also has the tendency to spew white smoke from the inside wheel while cornering, if you are on the gas. That can be solved by lowering the suspension or equipping a LSD. Cars like the S2000 benefits from having this drivetrain, if it was FF, it wouldn't carve apexes and handle so well like it does. It is NOT good in grip while driving in reverse. Is this drivetrain good for endurance races? Depends on the car choice, weight, tires, handling, and track. It does last a lot longer than all FF's would.

MR - Mid-Engined, Rear Wheel Drive Layout:​
This is my personal favorite drivetrain. It can be tricky while trying to push it to the limits. It offers good cornering performance, oversteer, and good accelerating grip. This is the ultimate drivetrain IMO, since you can smoothly drift, maintain accelerating pushing grip, due to the weight being more closer to the rear tires. You have to be careful while trying to countersteer, since in GT4, there are alot of "Viscous Snapbacks" when you countersteer too much. This will make you initiate another (usually uncontrolable) drift to the opposite direction, throwing you in the grass/sand/wall. If you want to oversteer more while cornering with this drivetrain, let off the gas and there you go. This drivetrain is so-so in grip while reversing. Is this drivetrain good for endurance races? Usually yes if you don't drive too wildly or drifting alot. It also depends on the car choice, weight, tires, handling, and track. Don't think about winning if you keep oversteering and frying your tires, which can be solved by adding a LSD and editing the suspension setup.

M-4WD - Mid-Engined, Four Wheel Drive Layout:​
This is similar to the MR layout, except with more grip overall. In other words, this drivetrain will understeer more than MR. It does usually understeer less than Front Engined, 4WD layouts. This means even more tremendous grip while accelerating and cornering than MR cars. You still need to let off the gas while trying to do sharp turns, so you don't smack into the wall like some drunken beetle. Few cars feature this drivetrain, such as the wonderful Peugeot 205 or monstrous Tommy Kaira ZZ-II which is basically a Ferrari with GT-R drivetrain. Burnout times are usually very short with this drivetrain, and it has great grip while reversing too. Is this drivetrain good for endurance races? YES, since it usually oversteers slightly more than F-4WD cars means that it wouldn't cook the front tires all the time, unless you are talking about the RUF CTR-2. The RUF CTR-2 is a R-4WD car layout (Rear Engined 4WD) so theres little weight in the front tires to keep it from understeering and burning out. Once you have oversteer, it will last for a short moment atleast, since the rear end would want to keep on drifting. Too bad this car can't get a VCD controller like it was able to in GT3. In some cases, F-4WD cars oversteer more, like with the Skyline GT-R, hard to miss because there are about 30 of those...

F-4WD - Front Engined, Four Wheel Drive:​
This drivetrain is all about grip and and little oversteer. This drivetrain usually accelerates faster than any other drivetrain, forwards and reverse. It has a downside, UNDERSTEER. This drivetrain is basically a FF with MUCH more grip in accelerating and turning. The front wheels would like to pull you in if you actually get the 4WD thing drifting. It's like a girl that keeps trying to make you do stuff you don't want to do. You need to let off the gas while turning, since it would sometimes turn as bad as a thrown brick. This drivetrain is best for when you are trying to out-grip your opponents from the line, or go full blast on the exit of turns with no side effects. Is this drivetrain good for endurance races? Not exactly, it is O.K. It tends to cook the front tires alot. Especially if you are driving the Audi TT 1.8T Quattro. (Or the so called "Quattro".) That car is a complete FF until you buy a VCD controller. Also if you don't want understeer in a Skyline GT-R, don't ever buy a VCD controller for it. It has a ATTESA Super Hicas system, so it would only be 4WD during acceleration. It would be like a FR during cornering, so it would drift more than many 4WD cars. Installing a VCD would make this system go bye-bye. It would be a 4WD at all times.

Here is a great setup for the Lancer Evo, and it works on some other 4WD cars as well. https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showpost.php?p=2615398&postcount=429 From Leonidae.

RR - Rear Engined, Rear Wheel Drive Layout:​
This drivetrain offers a variety of handling characteristics. From some handling as silky smooth as the RUF RGT to some handling as sloppy as the Alpine 1300VE. You do have almost the best accelerating grip with this drivetrain, since the engine's weight is on the rear tires. This drivetrain would usually understeer when entering corners and oversteer exiting them. Especially if you lower your throttle input. It can be good for drifting, since if you let off the gas, you would see a lot more oversteer, and as soon as you put your foot on the gas again, (or in this case, the finger to the X button) you straighten out your car and stopped the oversteer. You don't have to countersteer too much with this technique. You can also carve apexes and exit the corners cleanly if you use low throttle input on the entry of corners and high throttle input on the exit. This drivetrain takes true skill to master. Is this drivetrain good for endurance races? It is below average, since the rear likes to swing out, they would cook the rear tires, meaning more oversteer to deal with. It would be hard to handle this drivetrain at times, due to the fact that the rear wants oversteer. Also this is the worst drivetrain when it comes to braking, due to the weight being at the rear, not the front.

This should help you if you are having some trouble with these drivetrains. These are just the basics...

Drag Racing​
A lot of people like doing 400M test runs of thier cars to see which settings gets you past 1320ft the fastest, or just have a competition with an online friend or someone. Here are a few tips on drag racing with drivetrains and grip...

FWD - Front Wheel Drive cars​
These cars have the most trouble getting the power to the ground, as they basically pull the car, not push. You should use the stiffest suspension setup possible, and put the rear ride height all the way up, and the front ride height all the way down. This will put more weight on the front tires, making it have increased grip. Also of course use RSS (R5) tires front and back for more grip. Also buy a LSD and adjust accordingly. Buy a spoiler and increase the front downforce all the way, while keeping the rear at 0. You also should put the heaviest weight ballast, then shift the weight to the front. Then put the Nitrous setting all the way up. Use ratios to help you grip more during first gear, then short gears after that, if you have a powerband that gives most power right by the redline or close to it. You also need good ratios, and if you are having trouble.... BUM BUM BUM.... set the TCS at 1 or 2. This should make a quick little FWD bugger for the drag strip.

RWD - Rear Wheel Drive cars​
Here you have to do the complete opposite of FF cars. You have to shift all the weight to the rear, only if you are having trouble keeping all of the power on the ground. Especially the TVR Speed 12. Put the front ride height all the way up, and the rear ride height all the way down. Also use the softest suspension setup possible. Buy a LSD to keep the grip going, and use ratios to help you grip more during first gear, then short gears after that, if you have a powerband that gives most power right by the redline or close to it. You should use a manual transmission for these cars. Use the weight ballast and set it to the rear if you are driving a burnout king like the Speed 12. Buy a hideous wing and set the rear downforce all the way up. If you are using a race car, lower the front downforce all the way. That should help you out a bit... If you still have trouble with grip, go with the TCS at 1... Hardcore drag racers never use it though, I only use it on a Speed 12. The weight ballast and downforce thing mentioned above shouldn't be used on any other car RWD car except the Speed 12.

4WD - Four Wheel Drive cars​
Put the front ride height all the way up, and the rear ride height all the way down. Also use the softest suspension setup possible. Buy a LSD to keep the grip going, and use ratios to help you grip more during first gear, then short gears after that, if you have a powerband that gives most power right by the redline or close to it. The RUF CTR2 needs weight put at the front, as it is a R-4WD car. Also treat the RUF CTR2 like a FF and tune it the same way as I mentioned for the FF cars. It spins the front tires often...

LSD​
Parnelli Bone
I have put limited-slips on 4-wheel drive cars (the piggy Mitsu 3000GT comes to mind) when they are HIGH-POWERED, and mid-engine cars often need them sooner. But when the power is low and the traction of a MR or 4WD is supreme, i don't bother even buying these parts.Ultimately it comes down to how much power we're using. Up against ai in a slower auto, a good driver shouldn't need all the best parts if their car already kicks some. A short-wheelbase car like an Audi A3 might benefit from some full tweaking at this level of power to keep it steady.
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panjandrum
I install them only when a car actually NEEDS it. LSDs have a number of problems which are quite well emulated by the physics of GT4. This includes increased understeer combined with a greater likelihood off of a complete spin-out under heavy acceleration during a turn (or on rough roads). Way too many tuning specifications include an LSD on cars for which one is both unnecessary and actually detrimental to the handling. The Lotus Elise and Yellowbird come to mind immediately as cars which shouldn't be given LSDs except under very specific conditions (for example, when tuning the Elise for off-roading).
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Under Rated Cars List​
Subaru Legacys - Keeps up with the Impreza.
Subaru Impreza Wagons - People stay with coupes and sedans.
Nissan Stegea 2.5t - The Skyline GT-R Station Wagon.
Nissan Stegea 260RS - The Skyline GT-R Station Wagon.
Ford Ka - Great cornering abilities.
Ford Focus ST170 - More calm version of the RS IMO.
Ford Focus RS - Lightweight and quick FF.
Pescarolo C60 - Peugeot Race Car, just as fast as the Judd stock.
Peugeot 905 Race Car - Found a way to make that shift faster.
Peugeot 206s - The RC model is as good as the Civic Type-R IMO.
Peugeot 106s - Can turn good and lightweight.
BMW 120d - Great for A-Spec points!
BMW 120i - Great for A-Spec points!
Nissan Skyline R32 and R33s - Under rated compared to the R34.
Nissan Primera - Kind of like a Nissan Altima.
Classic Nissan Skylines - They really cut corners, especially the BLRA-3!
Audi RS4 Wagon - BIG Turbo stock, and can really move.
Audi RS6 Wagon - BIG Turbo stock, and can really move even faster than RS4.
Proto Motors Spirra V8 - Caught me by suprise when I drove it.
Toyota RSC Rally Raid - It can beat the Nurburgring 24 Hours stock! And Bob likes it.
Ford F-150 Lightning - Such an amazing truck.
Hommell Berlinette - No one even mentions this decent car.
Renault AVANTIME - Pretty unusual car, but drives good for it's heavy weight and size.
Honda Euro-R Accords - Can take on the Integra Type-Rs!
Honda Accord V6 - Great for a V6 FF car.
Acura CLs - Pretty decent cars, as someone hit over 150MPH in it in real life too.

EDIT: Anyone wants to add some things I may have forgot? :) I did all this by myself, and this is my longest post ever, longer than some of my essays.

The Breakout Thread: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=94589

Wondered which car you should buy with 4.5 Million Dollors? Read here.
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=86704

Also which car you can start out with drifting?
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=93728

And which car is good for starting out with?
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=94176

Got help from Leonidae with the M-4WD and FF comment.

ADDED: RUF CTR2 and Skyline comment.
RR Comment with braking.
eg6_dude's FF guide link.
Parnelli Bone's Quote about LSD's.
panjandrum's Quote about LSD's.
TuneRVisioN's Breakout Thread.
UPDATE: Drag Racing tips...
Under Rated Cars List.
3 New Links.
KEEP CONTRIBUTING!!! :D And that red tick ain't there for nothing. :)
 
You forgot RF and MF....nah just kidding. :P

It did not help me a lot because Iam playing GT4 since two years now but a GT4 beginner could find a lot of great help in here.

+rep :)
 
TuneRVisioN



M-4WD - Mid-Engined, Four Wheel Drive Layout:​
This is similar to the MR layout, except with more grip overall. In other words, this drivetrain will understeer more than MR. It does usually understeer less than Front Engined, 4WD layouts. This means even more tremendous grip while accelerating and cornering than MR cars. You still need to let off the gas while trying to do sharp turns, so you don't smack into the wall like some drunken beetle. Burnout times are usually very short with this drivetrain, and it has great grip while reversing too. Is this drivetrain good for endurance races? YES, since it usually oversteers slightly more than F-4WD cars means that it wouldn't cook the front tires all the time, unless you are talking about the RUF CTR-2. The RUF CTR-2 is a R-4WD car layout (Rear Engined 4WD) so theres little weight in the front tires to keep it from understeering and burning out. Once you have oversteer, it will last for a short moment atleast, since the rear end would want to keep on drifting. In some cases, F-4WD cars oversteer more, like with the Skyline GT-R, hard to miss because there are about 30 of those...
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you slipped bit out of the subject there. you could had also mentioned few cars that feature this drivetrain, such as the wonderful Pug 205 T16 or monstrous Tommykaira ZZ-II which is basically a Ferrari with GT-R drivetrain.

Also, FF's aren't that bad if one knows how to tune/drive them.
 
Leonidae
you slipped bit out of the subject there. you could had also mentioned few cars that feature this drivetrain, such as the wonderful Pug 205 T16 or monstrous Tommykaira ZZ-II which is basically a Ferrari with GT-R drivetrain.

Also, FF's aren't that bad if one knows how to tune/drive them.
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I recommend using a limited slip diff for the FF cars to stop the inside wheel from starting to spin in a corner. In fact, any car should have a limited slip differential.
 
Max911
I recommend using a limited slip diff for the FF cars to stop the inside wheel from starting to spin in a corner. In fact, any car should have a limited slip differential.
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I disagree. Any car that needs LSD should have it installed. I find that many cars (slower FF or FR cars and many mid-engine and 4-wheel drives) don't actually need LSD--all it does is make them less flexible and more prone toward understeer. Only cars that have issues (inside tire smoking, trouble staying within a certain driving line, etc) actually need limited-slip systems.

TuneRVisioN
EDIT: Anyone wants to add some things I may have forgot? :) I did all this by myself, and this is my longest post ever, longer than some of my essays.[/FONT]
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You wrote all that? Damn! + rep for sure.
 
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Parnelli Bone
I disagree. Any car that needs LSD should have it installed. I find that many cars (slower FF or FR cars and many mid-engine and 4-wheel drives) dont' actually need LSd--all it does is make them less flexible and more prone toward understeer. Only cars that have issues (inside tire smoking, trouble staying within a certain driving line, etc) actually need limited-slip systems.
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umm,. then, how come american musclecars don't have LSD's?💡
 
In real life, many of them do - ever heard of "posi"? That's short for PosiTraction - GM's name for their LSD rear.
 
Leonidae
umm,. then, how come american musclecars don't have LSD's?💡
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Not sure what you mean. Many of them do or did have them, sometimes as an option irl. Anyways, I'm talking of our ability to modify cars in the game--I'd say about half the time I don't think low-powered cars need them, especially if their traction is decent enough.
 
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Ok thanks for the comments. :) Keep them coming, as I will add the stuff you posted and I will post who helped. I will keep testing cars too so I can add more stuff. Thanks for the +Rep guys. :) I will be posting more helpful things about cars in GT4 later, after I test them out.

EDIT: This thread will have information about other stuff with GT4 cars. I will change the title now.

I also liked how Tulok capitalized the D and S in my name, like in real life. Not even my girl does that... She always put Dashawn or Shawn of the dead. :indiff:
 
Does adding 200kgs of ballast really improve you acceleration? I know it should grip more, but given acceleration = force / mass, it seems like that would slow you down just as much.
 
In certian situations yes, due to more weight on FF cars in the front. My SRT-4 used to burn out past 100MPH, but now it's reduced signifigantly. It depends on what car and how much weight you use on the ballast. Acceleration is key to winning in drag races, rather than top speed reached in one. Sometimes going that far to add grip can help you, since you might be using a 500HP+ FF with powerful NOS. That means you can use the NOS much earlier with less side effects.
 
Parnelli Bone
I disagree. Any car that needs LSD should have it installed. I find that many cars (slower FF or FR cars and many mid-engine and 4-wheel drives) dont' actually need LSd--all it does is make them less flexible and more prone toward understeer. Only cars that have issues (inside tire smoking, trouble staying within a certain driving line, etc) actually need limited-slip systems.
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Thank goodness I finally found someone here with the same opinion concerning LSDs that I have. I install them only when a car actually NEEDS it. LSDs have a number of problems which are quite well emulated by the physics of GT4. This includes increased understeer combined with a greater likelihood of of a complete spin-out under heavy acceleration during a turn (or on rough roads). Way too many tuning specifications include an LSD on cars for which one is both unnecessary and actually detrimental to the handling. The Lotus Elise and Yellowbird come to mind immediately as cars which shouldn't be given LSDs except under very specific conditions (for example, when tuning the Elise for off-roading).
 
panjandrum
Thank goodness I finally found someone here with the same opinion concerning LSDs that I have. I install them only when a car actually NEEDS it. LSDs have a number of problems which are quite well emulated by the physics of GT4. This includes increased understeer combined with a greater likelihood of of a complete spin-out under heavy acceleration during a turn (or on rough roads). Way too many tuning specifications include an LSD on cars for which one is both unnecessary and actually detrimental to the handling. The Lotus Elise and Yellowbird come to mind immediately as cars which shouldn't be given LSDs except under very specific conditions (for example, when tuning the Elise for off-roading).
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The latest Lotus Exige was tested by Car & Diver (or maybe it was Motor Trend, I forget). Anyways, the Exige is offered with limited-slips as an option; and the magazine was saying: (I'm paraphrasing here) "Why? Why would anyone want to install one and instantly destroy the fun?" They were talking about the flexibility and agileness which the Exige and Elise are known for.
 
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OK I'm not a pro on GT4,but I have seen 4 types of LSDs ,1 way,1.5 way, 2 way and full costmize way
GT4 says use (1 way) for an FF car , (1.5 way) for an FR car ( 2.0 way) for MR and 4WD. to get best traction ,is that true?
Or do you choose a full LSD to make the best traction?
 
Never put a LSD on a 4WD car, and don't put a LSD on a RR or MR car, unless the MR car really can't stop oversteering. (Like the 1986 Toyota MR2.) It would make 4WD cars understeer even more, and like Parnelli Bone said, you will destroy the flexibility of the car. It is ok to put on some FR cars or FF cars, since the inside wheel tends to spin during cornering.

I added a few things to first post. Anything else?
 
Umm.. before you're going to say that FC LSD is waste of time in 4WD cars like evo or impreza, then feel free to try THIS before saying anything else. :sly: this setup works well into Scoobies too, and even into front biased AWD:s like Audi A3, Golf R32 etc.👍 try it out. I might edit that setup soon though, just to make it even better with mere LSD tuning.
 
My Lotus Elan with full engine mods (and other stuff including a racing suspension and stage 3 weight loss) never needed or made use of a slippy diff in racing trim. It didn't have traction problems and so simply didn't need a diff. No sense installing one because the only change would have been the compromises.

LSDs, by the way, can be used to solve some braking instability problems as well as traction problems. I can't remember if I've used it in that way on GT4, but I certainly use the LSD settings on GPL all the time to cure the weaving under braking problems that I have on that programme, as an alternative to shifting brake balance to the front wheels and suffering premature lockup.
 
Ok well I'm sorry. The problem is that I don't use toe angles or camber angles on my cars. Also my Evo III can oversteer nice when off the gas, thats about it. (Unless it hits the AI car while turning, and you push the AI out of your way when they're on the outside of the corner.) Nice setup. +Rep...

EDIT: Added your 4WD setup link to first post.
 
Parnelli Bone
The latest Lotus Exige was tested by Car & DRiver (or maybe it was Motor Trend, i forget). Anyways, the Exige is offered with limited-slips as an option; and the magazine was saying: (i'm paraphrasing here) "Why? Why would anyone want to instal one and instantly destroy the fun?" They were talking about the flexibility and agileness which the Exige and Elise are known for.
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I know for sure that the LSD was offered as an option, in the US, for those Lotus driver that wanted to autocross, because autocross courses are super tight and technical. With sticky tires on all four corners some massive inside wheelspin can be induced on some courses. 👍

Leonidae
try it out first. i'll accept your apologies later. :sly:
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I have a little more time now and have recently remembered that you challanged me to a LSD vs. AYC battle! Prepare for some AYC fury! Updates will be arriving soom in the tuner garage section... :mischievous:


BTW: TuneRVisioN, if you didn't see I added a link to your thread in mine! Thanks for all the support.

peace,
eg6_dude :)
 
TuneRVisioN
Never put a LSD on a 4WD car, and don't put a LSD on a RR or MR car, unless the MR car really can't stop oversteering. (Like the 1986 Toyota MR2.) It would make 4WD cars understeer even more, and like Parnelli Bone said, you will destroy the flexibility of the car. It is ok to put on some FR cars or FF cars, since the inside wheel tends to spin during cornering.

I added a few things to first post. Anything else?
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I have put limited-slips on 4-wheel drive cars (the piggy Mitsu 3000GT comes to mind) when they are HIGH-POWERED, and mid-engine cars often need them sooner. But when the power is low and the traction of a MR or 4WD is supreme, I don't bother even buying these parts.

shangoob
OK I'm not a pro on GT4,but I have seen 4 types of LSDs ,1 way,1.5 way, 2 way and full costmize way
GT4 says use (1 way) for an FF car , (1.5 way) for an FR car ( 2.0 way) for MR and 4WD. to get best traction ,is that true?
Or do you choose a full LSD to make the best traction?
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It's a judgement call, really. For instance when I raced a low-powered Silvia in GT3 a few months back, I had no issues with the way it entered corners, but needed some help when exiting them. Therefore I bought a 1-way LSD for this car even tho it is rear-drive. Likewise I've had some larger front-drives (the Alfa Romeo 166 and Citroen Xantia come to mind) in which I needed a bit of stability with the brakes and bought a 1.5.

Does the FC LSD make for best traction? Ultimately yes, but I buy full-custom LSD's only for cars that truly merit their use; in other words, I recently entered a Buick GNX in the Pro-level Tuner car event. This is the one that is high-paced and since my GNX was having some oversteer issues, I packed a FC in the rear!

Basically I don't see the point in endless tuning of a car (full-custom transmission, limited-slip etc) when it's being entered in a race in which it already will blow some doors away with stock or lesser parts. Now the brake-balancer and or racing brake package? THAT'S another story since I love being able to out-brake the ai safely. 💡

Leonidae
Umm.. before you're going to say that FC LSD is waste of time in 4WD cars like evo or impreza, then feel free to try THIS before saying anything else. :sly: this setup works well into Scoobies too, and even into front biased AWD:s like Audi A3, Golf R32 etc.👍 try it out. I might edit that setup soon though, just to make it even better with mere LSD tuning.
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I believe you. Ultimately it comes down to how much power we're using. Up against ai in a slower auto, a good driver shouldn't need all the best parts if their car already kicks some. Furthermore, that link you posted leads to an Evo thread in which you're boasting over 500 horsepower. A short-wheelbase car like an Audi A3 might benefit from some full tweaking at this level of power to keep it steady. :) A Skyline? I guess I'll see eventually as I get further into GT4.
 
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Parnelli Bone
I believe you. Ultimately it comes down to how much power we're using. Up against ai in a slower auto, a good driver shouldn't need all the best parts if their car already kicks some. Furthermore, that link you posted leads to an Evo thread in which you're boasting over 500 horsepower. A short-wheelbase car like an Audi A3 might benefit from some full tweaking at this level of power to keep it steady. :) A Skyline? I guess i'll see eventualy as i get further into GT4.
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I made that car to run against Supercars in the professional hall, thus the "overpowered" specifications.
And for gods sake, do not fit an LSD/VCD on a GT-R. A3 on the other hand does benefit from the adjustable LSD, just like Golf R32 and Audi TT ( since they share the drivetrain).
I'm going to post soon 2 examples of my current cars, a ford Focus ST170 and Alpine A110 1600S ( that thing is able to run almost as fast as that god-damned GSX-R!)
 
Leonidae
Umm.. before you're going to say that FC LSD is waste of time in 4WD cars like evo or impreza, then feel free to try THIS before saying anything else. :sly: this setup works well into Scoobies too, and even into front biased AWD:s like Audi A3, Golf R32 etc.👍 try it out. I might edit that setup soon though, just to make it even better with mere LSD tuning.
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I tried that Evo it just perfect 👍
 

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