69 Camaro - Not a fun drive.

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Slayn

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Ive been trying to play this game with all the aides turned off and I have found it rather difficult on the older cars. I have a 69 Camaro SS and it handles like absolute poo and im dumping money into it to try and win some old muscle car races and wow, I cant do ANYTHING. Anyone take a look at my car and see if I just messed up the tuning?

Engine: Exhaust, chip ( yeah a chipped 396... ), supercharger. I even tried to take off the blow for stage 1 n/a didnt make it any easier.

Tires: Sports soft all around

Sports suspension: 120/125mm front back, 8/4 shocks front/back, 2.0/1.5 camber front/back

Transmission ( I went with tall gears because the first two gears I have to baby anyway ).

2.50 Final ( the lowest ) I did a auto to 25 to see if I could get the first gears to hook up at all, 1st 3.207 2nd 1.961 3rd 1.343 4th 0.978 5th 0.758

Triple clutch, racing flywheel

Car handles like absolute crap, not sure if I need to get full racing suspension or what but its rediculous.
 
Well, you might want to ask a tuner garage.

There's the one belonging to myself, Vince, and CirclesCenter (who hasn't been around lately), RCV, which I have a link to in my sig.

MFT, Greycap and Leonidae's garage (Sometimes our tunes are better, sometimes their tunes are better) is another option, with Aussie Tuners being the last of the trio.

All of the garages will want a car built and reviewed. I personally am handling most RCV requests for the time being, and I like it when I see a bit of effort put into a review, because that means I won't be tuning a car for nothing.

In advance of any tuning help you get, you'll want an FC LSD (under drivetrain) and the racing suspension. I think the big problem is the stock diff, which is NOT a limited slip. The car most likely understeers a good bit (fine, that much is suspension) and tends to light up the inside rear tire on corner exit and keep it smoking if you don't let off the throttle.

And this car has a 350 XD. A 396 would be an animal.
 
no wonder it handles like crap.., if you want to upgrade a car that has already a powerful engine, you should focus on the suspension first.., buying the RC Suspension will solve your problem.., 👍
 
I ran the muscle car championship with the camaro and had no real problems. I ran it with a trimmed down tune:
chip, na/tune stage 1, racing exhaust, racing fly, triple clutch, and default sport tires all around
Used a setting of 11 on the tranny get a better top speed (redlining in 5th at about 105mph before adjustment)
The main thing with this car is to milk the throttle off the turns and the low gears. If you have too much hp the back wheels will spin and not hookup if you floor it. The trick is with this car is to brake hard and roll around the corners and then gas it on exit once you straighten out the car.
 
Spatacula
I ran the muscle car championship with the camaro and had no real problems. I ran it with a trimmed down tune:
chip, na/tune stage 1, racing exhaust, racing fly, triple clutch, and default sport tires all around
Used a setting of 11 on the tranny get a better top speed (redlining in 5th at about 105mph before adjustment)
The main thing with this car is to milk the throttle off the turns and the low gears. If you have too much hp the back wheels will spin and not hookup if you floor it. The trick is with this car is to brake hard and roll around the corners and then gas it on exit once you straighten out the car.
Click to expand...

Did you turn off all the driving aides too? I won this race easily with them and now that I turned them off I find it to be much more of a challenge. Its kind of unrealistic how little traction muscle cars get in this game. I know traction is a problem but I mean if you go full throttle you can smoke the first three gears even at a roll. Hitting the throttle in 2nd at 60mph and shifting to 3rd and STILL spinning your tires to 100 mph is retarded. Is my problem I have the stock diff? I have a non-lsd diff on my camaro IRL and with its stock 250hp I can smoke the tires all day sometimes haha.

And yeah I just noticed its an SS350, I couldnt imagine the handling with a big block under that thing. I got the z06 and bought full race suspension and turned off the aides, now THATS a car.
 
I drove the prize car Chevelle SS in the muscle car series, stock, with no problems. However, I used a '69 Z/28 in the Camaro meeting, also stock, and also had no problems. To handle these soft, older cars, you really just need to learn how to manage weight transfer and control the throttle.
 
You definitely need an LSD. I have a race tyre tune if you're interested. I'll give it to you for free.
 
Leo's got a tune too, XD, I just wanted a review.

Well, his is for a Z/28, but...


The LSD will make a big difference in how easily the tires light up coming out of corners, even if you DON'T tune it.
 
Mhhm, except softening the rear springs may have the opposite effect, inducing oversteer by causing the weight shift to move excessively to the outside rear and overload it. Since there's an open diff as of right now, any amount of throttle at all will cause the inside to light up, and softening the rear does nothing for that.

Oh, and it's also going to worsen the already-present understeer.
 
Rotary Junkie
Mhhm, except softening the rear springs may have the opposite effect, inducing oversteer by causing the weight shift to move excessively to the outside rear and overload it. Since there's an open diff as of right now, any amount of throttle at all will cause the inside to light up, and softening the rear does nothing for that.

Oh, and it's also going to worsen the already-present understeer.
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You're talking like you're trying to produce a cornering beast out of this car. Wake up and read again. Softening the rear springs and adjusting cornering aggression for improved acceleration after the corner is what I'm suggesting. I'm not trying to force him to warp the car's personality to corner an RX-7 like you may be. It's a pony car. Emphasize on its strengths.
 
However, not being able to accelerate out of the corner due to the arse sliding uncontrollably due to having springs that are too soft for it would hinder it in both situations.

The car will invariably be QUICKER with a mild, but constant, oversteer bias than with either uncontrolled oversteer due to too-soft of springs, understeer on throttle if the soft springs wind up not causing that, and a general push at all times due to trying to "emphasize on its strengths".

Just because a car can enter the corner faster and hold its line does not mean that it will have a slower exit. And it's not impossible to tune the first-gen Camaros in this game to be corner-carving monsters that are still quick down straights.
 
Personally, out of the two i would use the Z/28. it has equal power, but less torque, and due the fact that it has torque higher up, the wheelspin is easier to control. But still, it has that big V8 in the front, so slight oversteer, be it the result of too much power or time spent with suspension, is needed if competitive driving is the goal.
 
Got to agree on the Z28 👍

A much more manageable beast!

Directly to the question:

You have the right idea on gearing, and as others have suggested, the FC LSD would be a big help.

There's one other thing you can look at - there's some debate above about springrates, but springrates tend to have more effect in the context of GT4 after you exit the corner and most of the weight has completed its transfer. I would suggest instead looking at your damper values in the rear - they tend to have more effect, especially on soft, wafty muscle cars. If you buy the RC Suspension, which others have already reccomended, set your rear damper values low enough to keep whatever of the characteristics of the car intact that you desire, but be sure to set them stiff enough to suppress the mass transfer that's overloading the tires. If they're TOO stiff though, they allow so little of the car's actual mass to transfer that the real downward force placed over the outside wheel (which is greatly magnified in cases of stiff damping) will again cause the coincident inside tire to overload since much less actual downward force is applied to it. Do make sure though that your rear damper bound is a fair bit softer than the rebound - this will enable the rear wheels to react softly to changes in track surface, but the quick rebound will return the grip to the road swiftly, and will assist in preventing your inside rear from losing traction as easily through corners - this is where stiffer springrates may come into play as well. You might also want to play around a bit with your rear stabilizer if the dampers don't help. They can go a long way as a secondary measure to modulate body roll.
 
Megasoft Office
So quickness is all that's on your mind? No sense of preserving the car's personality? You must so experienced.
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Yeah, pretty much.

When the car is no fun, I couldn't care less about its "personality". Because it has none.

If you like understeer pigs and axe murderers, I can't affect that.

But isn't almost all real-world tuning done to make cars handle more like they should? Not trying to keep them handling rather stock?
 

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