A few Driving Force Pro GT GT5 compatibility questions.

[SVX]

As some of you may know, I finally got a proper sim racing wheel, a Driving Force Pro GT (DFP?). I finally decided to try it out on GT5 last night, and after my session, I came back with a few questions:

1. Is it normal for the PS3 to restart if you're trying to start a GT5 update with the wheel plugged in?

2. Is the wheel supposed to start turning from side to side while on a straight? I was driving the 2010 Impreza sedan at HSR in arcade mode BTW.

3. Does anyone have any good settings for the wheel or any tips regarding DFPs?

4. Does anyone have any tips regarding getting used to using a wheel in GT5?



Thanks for reading.


Thanks in advance.

 

[Shoe67]

As far as settings go. Simulation mode on, and force feedback set to 4. And for getting used to a wheel, use a car you know well on a track you know well.

 

[GTP_CargoRatt]

As far as settings go. Simulation mode on, and force feedback set to 4. And for getting used to a wheel, use a car you know well on a track you know well.

I've went through this before with people. Steering Type: Amatuer, Professional, Simulation modes only work with the 3 highlighted wheels when this option is selected. ( GT Force, Driving Force, and Driving Force EX) It does not work with the Driving Force Pro GT which the OP has. Read what it says in the description at the bottom when you select this option.

As far as the forcefeedback goes, it all comes down to preference really and what you are comfortable with. I personall use a setting of 7 because it gives me really good feedback as far as what the car is doing without being too overpowering. Some may find that too strong but again, that is just my preference. There is no right or wrong answer here regardless of what others may try telling you. I also run with the Power-Assisted Steering turned on. Again, just personal preference.

As far as restarting, yes, anytime you do a GT5 update, you have to restart your sytem in order for the update to take effect. As far as your other problem, I haven't experienced that before so I can't help you there.

 

[SVX]

As far as settings go. Simulation mode on, and force feedback set to 4. And for getting used to a wheel, use a car you know well on a track you know well.

I've went through this before with people. Steering Type: Amatuer, Professional, Simulation modes only work with the 3 highlighted wheels when this option is selected. ( GT Force, Driving Force, and Driving Force EX) It does not work with the Driving Force Pro GT which the OP has. Read what it says in the description at the bottom when you select this option.

As far as the forcefeedback goes, it all comes down to preference really and what you are comfortable with. I personall use a setting of 7 because it gives me really good feedback as far as what the car is doing without being too overpowering. Some may find that too strong but again, that is just my preference. There is no right or wrong answer here regardless of what others may try telling you. I also run with the Power-Assisted Steering turned on. Again, just personal preference.

As far as restarting, yes, anytime you do a GT5 update, you have to restart your sytem in order for the update to take effect. As far as your other problem, I haven't experienced that before so I can't help you there.

Thanks for the help guys. I'll try some different FFB settings, and see if that solves my issue.

As for the wiggling issue, I think I'll take a video to show what I mean. It's quite frustrating on tracks like the HSR, as you're quickly approaching a corner at high speed, while also fighting the wheel to keep it straight so you don't spin out.

As far as restarting, yes, anytime you do a GT5 update, you have to restart your sytem in order for the update to take effect. As far as your other problem, I haven't experienced that before so I can't help you there.

I understand that, but what I was trying to say, was that with the wheel plugged in, the update wouldn't start installing. Instead it would just wait a little while and restart itself. Happened more than once too.

Once I unplugged the wheel (from the USB slot), it started the update fine.

Sorry for the confusion.

 

[Dean]

Well, it does turn when you're driving on a straight, but you'll get used to it.

 

[GTP_CargoRatt]

Thanks for the help guys. I'll try some different FFB settings, and see if that solves my issue.

As for the wiggling issue, I think I'll take a video to show what I mean. It's quite frustrating on tracks like the HSR, as you're quickly approaching a corner at high speed, while also fighting the wheel to keep it straight so you don't spin out.



I understand that, but what I was trying to say, was that with the wheel plugged in, the update wouldn't start installing. Instead it would just wait a little while and restart itself. Happened more than once too.

Once I unplugged the wheel (from the USB slot), it started the update fine.

Sorry for the confusion.

Ah, I see. Never had that problem either and my wheel stays plugged in. The last maintenence update, mine updated just fine, even with my wheel plugged in. Sorry for my misunderstanding of your question.

I think I understand your other question. Try holding your wheel with a little more firmer grip. I remember I had the same problem back when I started out with my wheel. I used a firmer grip on the wheel and now I don't have that problem. You can also try a lower fedback setting to see if that helps.

 

[SVX]

Well, it does turn when you're driving on a straight, but you'll get used to it.

Ah, so it is normal. Thanks.

Ah, I see. Never had that problem either and my wheel stays plugged in. The last maintenence update, mine updated just fine, even with my wheel plugged in. Sorry for my misunderstanding of your question.

I think I understand your other question. Try holding your wheel with a little more firmer grip. I remember I had the same problem back when I started out with my wheel. I used a firmer grip on the wheel and now I don't have that problem. You can also try a lower fedback setting to see if that helps.

No worries.

Hmmmmmmm, that's odd. It could be due to the fact that it was my first time using the wheel. Hopefully it won't happen again.

I think I'll do that. Is the higher the FFB, the more harder it is to resist against the wiggling?

 

[Johnnypenso]

As some of you may know, I finally got a proper sim racing wheel, a Driving Force Pro GT (DFP?). I finally decided to try it out on GT5 last night, and after my session, I came back with a few questions:

1. Is it normal for the PS3 to restart if you're trying to start a GT5 update with the wheel plugged in?

2. Is the wheel supposed to start turning from side to side while on a straight? I was driving the 2010 Impreza sedan at HSR in arcade mode BTW.

3. Does anyone have any good settings for the wheel or any tips regarding DFPs?

4. Does anyone have any tips regarding getting used to using a wheel in GT5?



Thanks for reading.


Thanks in advance.

Most of this has been covered but I'll chime in on how to get used to a wheel. Drive some good untuned cars on their stock tires. I believe this will give you the best overall feel to how the cars handle with a wheel and how to counteract or correct for your own mistakes. Start with slower cars, less than 400 PP on CS tires. Try some FR's, MR's, FF's, and some 4wd's. They are all different and require different driving techniques to get them to rotate well into a corner. If you find a car a little too difficult, don't be a hero. Just set it aside and come back to it. Some good cars to try might be RX7/8's, Civics, Integras, MR2's, Impreza//Subaru's or any other car you enjoy driving.

I suggest starting with Tsukuba. It's short, it's flat and it's simple. You can run many laps there in a shorter time. Speeds are a little slower making it a little easier to drive. From there progress to another larger but still fairly flat course like Nurb GP/D. As you build confidence from there, try something like Deep Forest or Trial Mountain to figure out how to deal with bumps, undulations, camber in the track surface, negative g forces etc.

Good luck and try and report back with an update.

 

[Jaywalker]

As Cargorat says, a good firm grip is required. You can't pussyfoot with a wheel. It's meant to simulate the real thing, after all. Personally, I prefer FFB on 10. The harder, the better!

Regarding the re-starting issue, was your DS3 on as well?

 

[SVX]

[WRITINGGOESHERE]

Thanks for that. I'll try to.

As Cargorat says, a good firm grip is required. You can't pussyfoot with a wheel. It's meant to simulate the real thing, after all. Personally, I prefer FFB on 10. The harder, the better!

Different strokes for different folks I guess. I thought FFB 10 was a bit too hard to handle, especially a 4WD car.

Regarding the re-starting issue, was your DS3 on as well?

I don't think so.

 

[GTP_CargoRatt]

As Cargorat says, a good firm grip is required. You can't pussyfoot with a wheel. It's meant to simulate the real thing, after all. Personally, I prefer FFB on 10. The harder, the better!

Regarding the re-starting issue, was your DS3 on as well?

The harder the better, same thing my girlfriend says, lol.

 

[Jaywalker]

!

 

[Spagetti69]

As Cargorat says, a good firm grip is required. You can't pussyfoot with a wheel. It's meant to simulate the real thing, after all.

Debatable for sure.

Sure it normal for a car to veer left or right dependant on wheel balance, tracking etc.
the occilations at high speed are not realistic.

The FF generally needs a deadzone. The lack of one causes opposing forces to feed off each other generally amplifying as you go on.

Like others said firm grip and or lower FF should help.

Tbh. I thought this was patched out ages ago.

 

[Woodski_427]

Tbh. I thought this was patched out ages ago.

It still happens on the DFP. I don't find you a strong grip to stop it occurring, just a slight counter action sometimes. You'll get used to it really quickly.

I started out on FFB of 5 but now use 8 or 9 on my DFP, as I find it gives better feel for what the car is doing, but can be unrealistically firm.

Remember to calibrate your pedals before driving (Just press them all the way down).

 

[byegad]

At first you'll feel the wheel is driving you. This will go away with practice, try driving a slow lap, making sure you stay on the tarmac for a few laps. Then you'll love the wheel.

 

[SVX]

The harder the better, same thing my girlfriend says, lol.

No comment.

Debatable for sure.

Sure it normal for a car to veer left or right dependant on wheel balance, tracking etc.
the occilations at high speed are not realistic.

The FF generally needs a deadzone. The lack of one causes opposing forces to feed off each other generally amplifying as you go on.

Like others said firm grip and or lower FF should help.

Tbh. I thought this was patched out ages ago.

I agree. I'll turn down the FFB a bit and hopefully get used to it. Thanks.

It still happens on the DFP. I don't find you a strong grip to stop it occurring, just a slight counter action sometimes. You'll get used to it really quickly.

I started out on FFB of 5 but now use 8 or 9 on my DFP, as I find it gives better feel for what the car is doing, but can be unrealistically firm.

Remember to calibrate your pedals before driving (Just press them all the way down).

When do I calibrate them? Is anywhere fine?

At first you'll feel the wheel is driving you. This will go away with practice, try driving a slow lap, making sure you stay on the tarmac for a few laps. Then you'll love the wheel.

Cheers. I'm sure I will.

It'll probably be like when I played GT5 for the first time at a friend's house. Didn't understand anything, but now after a year of owning it, I understand it completely, and can keep up with other people.

 

[FordMKIVJ5]

I generally press both pedals all the way down the first time I go to track in that play session to calibrate them. 👍

The wheel moving from side to side is normal, you'll get used to it.

The only thing you can really do is just practise, practise, practise.

 

[Morgoth_666]

When do I calibrate them? Is anywhere fine?

Pretty much anywhere in-game does seem to work. Of course the pedals function as X and O in the menus so be mindful of that. I often end up not turning my wheel on until just before I start my first race, so it's just become a habit to calibrate the brake during the automated driving pre-race. You technically do need to calibrate the gas pedal too, but it's not something you really have to worry about since the first thing you tend to do after the race starts or you leave the pits is to floor it.

Do it once and you are set until you quit the game or disconnect the wheel.

 

[cletus 669]

I had a dfp for several years and just recently upgraded to a G27. Referring to the brake and gas peddle calibration I have never had to do this with either of them, now before you all jump on the "you must be slamming on the brakes in the first corner," bandwagon I have tested this even on hsr where you never use more than 1/4 peddle and still the peddles are operating properly so I am not really sure that this step is necessary. Neither one of the wheels owners manuals even say anything about peddle calibration so not sure where this hypothesis has come from. Just sayin.

 

[Morgoth_666]

For a long time I thought it wasn't necessary with my Clubsports either, but eventually I did realize that it definitely is. It was much more noticeable with my Driving Force, on that just a slight tap of the brake meant instant 100% brake pressure. With the CSP's it just changes how hard I have to press for full pressure, meaning technically I can have a custom version of it if I never push the pedal to maximum(anyone else remember doing that in the "good old days" with the steering itself to get the perfect setup for certain games?). I do still get nearly instant full gas if I manage to avoid pressing the gas until I am on track. So it can vary from one setup to another. Never tried G27 pedals but I wouldn't be surprised if there is an effect of some sort, although it may be more of a consistency thing than actually causing a major problem.

 

[GTP_CargoRatt]

On the G27, if you don't calibrate, the first time you hit the brakes (not slamming them all the way down) you'll go cruising right through the corner into the grass, sand, etc.

 

[SVX]

Thanks a lot for the help guys. Just trying to find what to actually put it on.

I'd put it on my desk, but my PS3 isn't connected to my desk, but rather in a separate cabinet. I'd love a Wheel Stand Pro, but they cost over $150 NZD IIRC, which is way more than I'm wiling to spend. :/

Any ideas?

 

[parabulla]

The platform you eventually choose to mount your wheel will ultimately determine what settings you should use. I ended up settling for a small sewing table, and initially only using FFB 2. If I turned the feedback up anymore, the table would jump around in reaction to the wheel. I now have added some weight to the table and turned the feedback up again, still not where I want to be, but budgetary demands preclude me from upgrading further. Good luck with however you end up situating your equipment, the wheel made this game so much better for me, I highly recommend them.

 

[iamsupernasty]

Thanks a lot for the help guys. Just trying to find what to actually put it on.

I'd put it on my desk, but my PS3 isn't connected to my desk, but rather in a separate cabinet. I'd love a Wheel Stand Pro, but they cost over $150 NZD IIRC, which is way more than I'm wiling to spend. :/

Any ideas?

Build something out of wood, metal or PVC tubing. All three will work, it just depends what materials are cheapest for you and what tools you have to work with.

 

[Woodski_427]

Ironing board works if you've got the space. A temporary solution really though.

 

[Chrunch Houston]

Ironing board works if you've got the space. A temporary solution really though.

I used an ironing board for a long time with my g25. It is infinitely height adjustable, just looks weird.

Not sure if all ironing boards are like American ironing boards though.

 

[Woodski_427]

Also very stable! You really need the solid sheet ones, if it has mesh you will probably end up bending or breaking it. Maybe you could use a small board or plate of some sort where the clamps grip?