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AdrenaTune
All tunes are maxed out on Racing Softs, unless stated otherwise.
Please understand that I will only be tuning a very limited amount of cars mainly of the Gr3 class.
1: Transmission Final DriveAll tunes are maxed out on Racing Softs, unless stated otherwise.
Please understand that I will only be tuning a very limited amount of cars mainly of the Gr3 class.
For the time being in GT7, after about 2 hours at the drag strip in Missions, I don't think there is much value in min/maxing gears.
Autosets were regularly resulting in the fastest 0-1000 times on track.
Flips no longer work effectively like they did in Sport and 5.
I have found a pattern with medium-low Final gears, between 2.500 and 3.000, as they seem to limit rev bounce between shifts.
For the majority of Gr3 cars, a 1st gear of ~120km/hr will get you off the line the best. +/- a couple kmph based on car and tune.
A max speed of 335 km/hr will work for 90% of tracks.
From there, I've been splitting my gears roughly as such:
1: 120km
2: 170km (+50)
3: 215km (+45)
4: 260km (+45)
5: 300km (+40)
6: 335km (+35)
2: Quick Fix: Ballast
The GT7 ballast function allows you to move 'the system' without adding weight to the car.
So, if you want to modify the tune, by adding oversteer or understeer, this is a quick and easy way to do it.
-50 is to the front of the car and will add understeer / Tight condition.
+50 is to the rear of the car and will add oversteer / Loose condition.
You can move it anywhere in between to fine tune the feel, that best suits your needs and style.
3: Brake Balance
I tune without any branke balance, and only use this if the car has a noticeable balance issue under hard braking. Otherwise, I only use brake balance to help balance tire wear for races with degradation on.
4: LSD
Below is my explanation of how the LSD system works in GT7.
Initial:
Effects the cars stability throughout the entire turning process. Think of 5 as an open diff and 60 as a locker.
High Initial, usually means more understeer, better forward bite.
Lower Initial, usually means more agility, less acceleration.
*Use the highest Initial Setting possible, without experiencing understeer.
Acceleration:
Effects the car under acceleration while exiting a corner and distributes the power between the inside and outside tires.
High Accel, usually means more outside tire spin.
Lower Accel, usually means more inside tire spin.
*Use the highest Accel Setting possible, without experiencing excessive outside wheel spin.
For longer races with tire wear, I recommend using lower numbers to prevent exaggerated wheel spin under low grip conditions experienced when tire life is lower.
DeAcceleration
Effects the car while braking, coasting, and entering turns.
Higher DeAccel, usually means more understeer on corner entry & coasting through the center.
Lower DeAccel, usually means better agility, but less stability, potential oversteer on entry.
*Use the lowest number possible, where you can safely drive-in as hard as you like, without losing control, or experiencing oversteer.
Final thoughts:
Increasing or Lowering the Initial has a partial connection with Accel & DeAccel settings.
Since raising the Initial creates more 'lock' it will effect the balance of the Accel & DeAccel that you may have already tuned.
Another noteworthy aspect, is that many, MANY, different variables will effect your LSD balance. Including but not limited to:
Transmission Gearing, Downforce, Ride Height, Spring Rates, Brake Balance and so on.
So keep that in mind, when making other adjustments, that LSD balance may have been compromised.
Other Tuning:
Camber, Toe, Sways. Future updates.
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